Oil Consumption in '12 R-Spec

[RSPEC429]

I use 5-30 Pennzoil Ultra with zero oil consumption after switching from M-1 0-w20 and using 1qt-3,000 mi.

Have you tried PU 5W-20? It could very well have been that the Gennie just didn't work well with the M1 oil, not necessarily the 20 weight oil.

 

[Mark_888]

Have you tried PU 5W-20? It could very well have been that the Gennie just didn't work well with the M1 oil, not necessarily the 20 weight oil.

You need to read the entire thread on 5.0 excess oil consumption. Mobil 1 is not to blame, it is the viscosity. Admittedly, some people have had not problems with 5W-20 on their 5.0 engine, but for those who have, switching to any brand of 30 weight oil helped.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

Have you tried PU 5W-20? It could very well have been that the Gennie just didn't work well with the M1 oil, not necessarily the 20 weight oil.

I have not tried the Ultra in a 0-20 and won't even bother. 5-30 seems really right for this engine, and I prefer the Ultra because of (what I believe) is more effective detergent properties and a very low volatility index. Consumption has decreased down to .5 Qts. per 7,500 miles and I won't chase .5 mpg with 0-20.

 

[DRS]

Here are pics of the oil filters and the inside of the oil filter case. You can see how one could say the aftermarket works better.

I posted these before either here or in another post dealing with oil filters and oil.



I believe these are made by Mahle. Who OEM several versions of the same filter under mainstream brands. Firestone uses these. And had great success with the Kendall full synthetic they use.

You can see the inside of the filter can. And see how the aftermarket will be a tighter fit with the protrusion inside the can. When you insert the OEM, it does not feel like a good fit. Once you put in the aftermarket, you feel it fits/seals better. Also, the cheap paper frame of the OEM filter is crap in IMO.



One if the pics shows a part number for a intake and intake valve cleaning system for direct injected engines. They claim that this system works very well to keep intake valves clean for DI engines. As you already know, no gas and cleaners in gas hits the intake valves with DI. They claim that unless the valves have not been maintained with their system, one never has to pull the intakes and walnut blast the valves. The VW, Audi, and BMW are notorious for poor design with this.

 

[RSPEC429]

I have not tried the Ultra in a 0-20 and won't even bother. 5-30 seems really right for this engine, and I prefer the Ultra because of (what I believe) is more effective detergent properties and a very low volatility index. Consumption has decreased down to .5 Qts. per 7,500 miles and I won't chase .5 mpg with 0-20.

I said 5W-20, not 0W-20.

 

[RSPEC429]

Here are pics of the oil filters and the inside of the oil filter case. You can see how one could say the aftermarket works better.

I posted these before either here or in another post dealing with oil filters and oil.

View attachment 2821View attachment 2822View attachment 2823View attachment 2824View attachment 2825View attachment 2826

I believe these are made by Mahle. Who OEM several versions of the same filter under mainstream brands. Firestone uses these. And had great success with the Kendall full synthetic they use.

You can see the inside of the filter can. And see how the aftermarket will be a tighter fit with the protrusion inside the can. When you insert the OEM, it does not feel like a good fit. Once you put in the aftermarket, you feel it fits/seals better. Also, the cheap paper frame of the OEM filter is crap in IMO.



One if the pics shows a part number for a intake and intake valve cleaning system for direct injected engines. They claim that this system works very well to keep intake valves clean for DI engines. As you already know, no gas and cleaners in gas hits the intake valves with DI. They claim that unless the valves have not been maintained with their system, one never has to pull the intakes and walnut blast the valves. The VW, Audi, and BMW are notorious for poor design with this.

My OEM filter from the dealership was marked "Mahle" and "Made in Austria." I doubt Mahle has two filters for the same application.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

I said 5W-20, not 0W-20.

Oops. Sorry. No I have not, but I have no reason to.

 

[DRS]

Consumer Reports sees oil vanish from some test cars

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/consumer-reports-sees-oil-vanish-test-cars-140000066.html



Hmmm two cars both using low weight oils....and it looks like they have more.

Sounds like back to the future. Chevy Vega and its pre iron sleeve alloy block. Why people fixate as groupies for the Germans is beyond me.

 

[DRS]

My OEM filter from the dealership was marked "Mahle" and "Made in Austria." I doubt Mahle has two filters for the same application.

I likely have the names mixed up. IMO, I do not like the OEM filter. Have one in it right now because went to the dealer.

You see the pictures. Clearly a different design.

 

[RSPEC429]

Mahle makes a quality filter. I'll continue to run without pause.

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[Mark_888]

Mahle makes entire oil filter modules, and based on this link (and the picture) I suspect they make the one used on the Genesis:
http://www.mahle.com/MAHLE/en/Products/Liquid-Management-Systems/Oil-filter-modules

 

[RSPEC429]

Mahle makes entire oil filter modules, and based on this link (and the picture) I suspect they make the one used on the Genesis:
http://www.mahle.com/MAHLE/en/Products/Liquid-Management-Systems/Oil-filter-modules

Assuming this is true, it gives me even more reason to continue using the stock, Mahle oil filter.

 

[427435]

I'm not sure that the aftermarket filter with the protrusion inside the can will seal any better. The other filter appears to have a lip which, under pressure, will push down on the tube and perhaps seal better. Lip seals on pressure lubed bearings are used for this reason rather than just packing like the aftermarket filter basically uses.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

Has anybody, anybody seen evidence of leaking?

 

[bkleebauer]

No I haven't. I did switch to 5w-30 full synthetic (Quaker State) cause that's what the dealer uses, and the oil loss has dropped a lot, however, It's still using oil, but not as much. Going to go to Castrol Syntec Edge Full synthetic 10w-30 on next oil change and see what happens. Keep in mind my oil changes are free for life at the dealer, however, I did pay $39.95 for a full synthetic upgrade last time, but to me, I don't really care. I just care about what stops the oil loss.

 

[RSPEC429]

A 10W-30 is going to be too heavy. Stick with what Hyundai recommends. But definitely change up the brand to see if you find something your engine likes.

 

[EXBMWGUY]

A 10W-30 is going to be too heavy. Stick with what Hyundai recommends. But definitely change up the brand to see if you find something your engine likes.

^ Ditto.

 

[stuofsci02]

No I haven't. I did switch to 5w-30 full synthetic (Quaker State) cause that's what the dealer uses, and the oil loss has dropped a lot, however, It's still using oil, but not as much. Going to go to Castrol Syntec Edge Full synthetic 10w-30 on next oil change and see what happens. Keep in mind my oil changes are free for life at the dealer, however, I did pay $39.95 for a full synthetic upgrade last time, but to me, I don't really care. I just care about what stops the oil loss.

In the summer you should be good with 10W-30, but I would stick to 5W-30 or 0W-30 in the cooler weather for best cold start protection.

 

[RSPEC429]

In the summer you should be good with 10W-30, but I would stick to 5W-30 or 0W-30 in the cooler weather for best cold start protection.

A 10W-30 oil, even in the summer, will be pointlessly thick for our engines at start-up. Hyundai recommends a 5W-30 (5W-20 too) oil for temps from -10 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit; I just don't see a good reason for a 10W-30 oil to be used when the exact same results can be achieved with a 5W-30.

 

[DRS]

Blah, blah... Nothing new to offer real data over the subjective preference of a OEM filter. Which is not as durable built, and has the different forced seal method. I wonder what the bypass numbers are for the OEM.

In the meantime no definite answer on which is better. I wonder if this has anything to do with oil consumption. Allowing particles to continue to flow around the OEM filter, especially when the break in period would have the highest amounts. The high oil consumption may not be all the PCV valve blow by oil related.