Oil Consumption in '12 R-Spec

[stuofsci02]

A 10W-30 oil, even in the summer, will be pointlessly thick for our engines at start-up. Hyundai recommends a 5W-30 (5W-20 too) oil for temps from -10 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit; I just don't see a good reason for a 10W-30 oil to be used when the exact same results can be achieved with a 5W-30.

In general I agree, but 10w-30 will have fewer viscosity modifiers then 5w-30. There are advantages to this in very hot weather.

 

[RSPEC429]

In general I agree, but 10w-30 will have fewer viscosity modifiers then 5w-30. There are advantages to this in very hot weather.

If our engines utilized forced induction and were known to shear oil, we could certainly make use of the benefits of an oil with less VI improvers. However, since Hyundai recommends a viscosity as low as a 5W-20, it tells me that shear is not really a concern. Unless I heavily tracked my R-Spec, I would not worry about high heat.

 

[Mark_888]

In general I agree, but 10w-30 will have fewer viscosity modifiers then 5w-30. There are advantages to this in very hot weather.

If both oils used the same exact same base stocks (conventional or synthetic) then I agree with you that the 5W-30 would have more viscosity modifiers, which could break down more easily.

However, for some synthetic oils (or even synthetic blends), they will include a higher percentage of Group IV and V base stocks (compared to Group III hydrocracked mineral oil) in order to achieve the 5W rating, so I would not expect any significant viscosity breakdown in that situation.

In looking at the Mobil 1 MSDS's for Japan (the only country that requires them to list the percentage of Group III base stocks or below) one can see that products like Mobil 1 0W-40 are 95% Group IV or V synthetic base stock, whereas some other Mobil 1 products like 10W-30 are about 30-40% Group IV or V (the rest being Group III synthetics).

 

[stuofsci02]

If both oils used the same exact same base stocks (conventional or synthetic) then I agree with you that the 5W-30 would have more viscosity modifiers, which could break down more easily.

However, for some synthetic oils (or even synthetic blends), they will include a higher percentage of Group IV and V base stocks (compared to Group III hydrocracked mineral oil) in order to achieve the 5W rating, so I would not expect any significant viscosity breakdown in that situation.

In looking at the Mobil 1 MSDS's for Japan (the only country that requires them to list the percentage of Group III base stocks or below) one can see that products like Mobil 1 0W-40 are 95% Group IV or V synthetic base stock, whereas some other Mobil 1 products like 10W-30 are about 30-40% Group IV or V (the rest being Group III synthetics).

True.. I would still expect on average that a sampling of 10w-30 would have fewer viscosity modifiers than a sampling of 5w-30. There will of course be exceptions.

I agree that sticking to 5w-30 is probably the best plan, but I have no doubt a 10w-30 oil in summer would still work well. This might be especially true where the on/off's of the vehicle are such that the 10w-30 oil is retained more on the components reducing friction at startup.

 

[427435]

I haven't worried about VI improvers and their shear down tendencies for years----------I have simply used a good synthetic, thus no or very little VI improvers.

 

[Mark_888]

True.. I would still expect on average that a sampling of 10w-30 would have fewer viscosity modifiers than a sampling of 5w-30. There will of course be exceptions.

I agree that sticking to 5w-30 is probably the best plan, but I have no doubt a 10w-30 oil in summer would still work well. This might be especially true where the on/off's of the vehicle are such that the 10w-30 oil is retained more on the components reducing friction at startup.

If I had a Genesis 5.0 GDI with excess oil consumption, I might consider a 10W-30 synthetic. However, when I look at the MSDS for Mobil 1 10W-30, I notice it has the lowest percent of Group IV and V base stocks (largest percent of Group III) of any of their oils. This can be determined by looking at MSDS for Mobil 1 products in Japan, which is only country I have found that requires disclosure in the MSDS of the percentage of Group III or below base stocks.

For any other Genesis, since Hyundai seems to recommend a 5W-20, then a 5W-30 or 0W-30 should provide plenty of extra protection.

 

[427435]

In general I agree, but 10w-30 will have fewer viscosity modifiers then 5w-30.

Not if the oils are both synthetic. Synthetics use little or no VI improvers.

 

[stuofsci02]

Not if the oils are both synthetic. Synthetics use little or no VI improvers.

Yes, but I believe this is only true for "true synthetic oils". What is sometimes labelled as synthetic oils in North America are not real synthetics and may still have modifiers.

Probably not enough to worry about however..

 

[427435]

Yes, but I believe this is only true for "true synthetic oils". What is sometimes labelled as synthetic oils in North America are not real synthetics and may still have modifiers.

Probably not enough to worry about however..

I can't find it right now, but I had a chart that showed that the hydrocracked group III oils are very close to group IV oils in terms of performance and quality including the need for little or no VI improvers.

 

[Russki63]

Posted on 4-24-13 about my '12 Hyundai R-Spec and that the dealer was doing an oil consumption test. Last time I wrote I had burned 1.2qts after 1000 miles. They switched me to 10w/30 per Hyundai engineers. The first 1000 miles no drop, then at 2000 miles I went down about a 1/3rd of a qt and now after 3000 miles I'm down about 2/3 of a qt. Still burning but much less. Dealer said they want to talk to Hyundai and figure out next move since per Hyundai I'm not burning the recommended oil for the car. They said they are doing this to try and determine how and when I'm losing the oil. Not a drip under car and no black soot or buildup in the tailpipes per the dealer.

Car runs great, just should not burn oil!!!

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[Mark_888]

Posted on 4-24-13 about my '12 Hyundai R-Spec and that the dealer was doing an oil consumption test. Last time I wrote I had burned 1.2qts after 1000 miles. They switched me to 10w/30 per Hyundai engineers. The first 1000 miles no drop, then at 2000 miles I went down about a 1/3rd of a qt and now after 3000 miles I'm down about 2/3 of a qt. Still burning but much less. Dealer said they want to talk to Hyundai and figure out next move since per Hyundai I'm not burning the recommended oil for the car. They said they are doing this to try and determine how and when I'm losing the oil. Not a drip under car and no black soot or buildup in the tailpipes per the dealer.

Car runs great, just should not burn oil!!!

Was that a 10W-30 synthetic or conventional oil (or blend)? I would try a full synthetic before trying anything else.

 

[Mark_888]

Yes, but I believe this is only true for "true synthetic oils". What is sometimes labelled as synthetic oils in North America are not real synthetics and may still have modifiers.

Probably not enough to worry about however..

It can be complicated by the fact that some synthetics are a blend of Groups III (hydrocracked mineral oil), IV (PAO), and V (Esters), such as Mobil 1. And further complicated by the fact that the blend varies even among various Mobil 1 viscosities from about 60% Group III for 10W-30 to less than 5% Group III in 0W-40 (the remaining percentages being Group IV or V). However, many brands of synthetic sold in the US are 100% Group III as you mentioned.

 

[SNSN]

Another 2012 R-Spec owner with an oil consumption problem. Mine has 28,000mi and has been using 1qt every 1000mi.
Started happening since the car had over 15,000mi.
At 21,000 mile oil change they told me the oil was VERY low, as I had reported engine noise. Oil light NEVER came on!
Today, had the car in for an oil change and advised them about the problem and after waiting 2 1/2 hours, they told me they want to keep the car to further examine it with their top tech mechanic.
Meanwhile, they told me they have no loner cars available!
One hell of a way to get into the luxury car market!
We agreed, I'd leave the car once they got a car to give me.
Update, they just called me back to make the appt. and they need 10 days to have a loner car available!!!
This is absurd.
They are aware about the problem, as an Equis owner also had the same issue.
They've been doing oil changes with 5-20wt.
Anyone have an new details on the problem to report?

 

[Mark_888]

They've been doing oil changes with 5-20wt.
Anyone have an new details on the problem to report?

As mentioned by several people on this forum, switching to 0W-30 or 5W-30 full synthetic seems to help. Eventually Hyundai will read this forum and figure it out. Of course, they may have to consult their legal department in case switching to a 30 weight oil causes changes to EPA mileage estimates (which it probably does). So I would just switch yourself, since Hyundai may not feel they can legally ask you to switch.

 

[knelson454]

And I'm Another 2012 R-Spec owner with an oil consumption problem. Mine has 26,000mi and has been using 2qts after about 4k miles.
Its been happening since I got the car with 10k miles on it.
I'm glad I found this thread but has anyone heard if any one is actually getting it fixed by Hyundai? I'd like to take mine to the dealer but want some ammo when I get there.

 

[NSXNEXT]

And I'm Another 2012 R-Spec owner with an oil consumption problem. Mine has 26,000mi and has been using 2qts after about 4k miles.
Its been happening since I got the car with 10k miles on it.
I'm glad I found this thread but has anyone heard if any one is actually getting it fixed by Hyundai? I'd like to take mine to the dealer but want some ammo when I get there.

There is nothing that can get fixed. Switch to 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic and you should see a significant drop in the amount of oil lost.

 

[SNSN]

There is nothing that can get fixed. Switch to 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic and you should see a significant drop in the amount of oil lost.

My dealer is a very large Equis dealer and they have the issue with on car now, in the shop.
They are replacing the engine!!!
Mine will go in soon for an evaluation, they're talking about replacing mine as well.
It has to do with the piston ring seals, although I'm far from an expert...
let's see what happens...

 

[Mark_888]

My dealer is a very large Equis dealer and they have the issue with on car now, in the shop.
They are replacing the engine!!!
Mine will go in soon for an evaluation, they're talking about replacing mine as well.
It has to do with the piston ring seals, although I'm far from an expert...
let's see what happens...

Does that mean they believe Hyundai manufacturing has fixed the problem on newly built engines?

 

[SNSN]

Does that mean they believe Hyundai manufacturing has fixed the problem on newly built engines?

From reading through this post from the beginning, it seems like the problem is not on all of the engines...it's only been happening on a small %...

 

[Philth]

My dealer is a very large Equis dealer and they have the issue with on car now, in the shop.
They are replacing the engine!!!
Mine will go in soon for an evaluation, they're talking about replacing mine as well.
It has to do with the piston ring seals, although I'm far from an expert...
let's see what happens...

That's what I have been suspecting all along. Either incorrectly installed piston ring seals, or defective ring seals.