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Post purchase price details here (US $ only)

More pics ! Ps August 16 2018 build date.
 

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Great pics Nellie!
 
After a long search, I finally found what I wanted that wasnt a demo. I drove 2.5 hours to find one of the only if not the only Siberian Ice 3.3T RWD sports in my region (mid atlantic). Has every option for a RWD sport. Paid $45k pre tax, title, etc. + 1.9% financing. Cheers
View attachment 20206

Sounds like a good deal. I’ve been eyeing this one online for a few days, glad it went to a happy owner.
 
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After a long search, I finally found what I wanted that wasnt a demo. I drove 2.5 hours to find one of the only if not the only Siberian Ice 3.3T RWD sports in my region (mid atlantic). Has every option for a RWD sport. Paid $45k pre tax, title, etc. + 1.9% financing. Cheers
View attachment 20206
Did you get some preferred pricing or use a certificate? That a nice price for a 3.3 sport that should have listed about $50k lacking port installed stuff. I’ll be purchasing later in the year so always interested in pricing tactics. I’ll be paying cash so not sure if that will help or hurt me since the dealer won’t get any finance kick-backs. The normal dealer add on fees for registration I’m going to attempt to say no, just gimme the car and I’ll do registration, title and taxes all myself at my sub courthouse. That’s stuff is not rocket science. Did it with my Harley when it was purchased out of state and it was no problem.
 
Did you get some preferred pricing or use a certificate? That a nice price for a 3.3 sport that should have listed about $50k lacking port installed stuff. I’ll be purchasing later in the year so always interested in pricing tactics. I’ll be paying cash so not sure if that will help or hurt me since the dealer won’t get any finance kick-backs. The normal dealer add on fees for registration I’m going to attempt to say no, just gimme the car and I’ll do registration, title and taxes all myself at my sub courthouse. That’s stuff is not rocket science. Did it with my Harley when it was purchased out of state and it was no problem.
My 53k awd sport I just leased for cap cost of 8500 off msrp. There is 3000 of lease cash and 1000 of loyalty plus circle a. You would be a fool to pay cash. Lease it for a week and then buy it out and save yourself 3000.
 
Did you get some preferred pricing or use a certificate? That a nice price for a 3.3 sport that should have listed about $50k lacking port installed stuff. I’ll be purchasing later in the year so always interested in pricing tactics. I’ll be paying cash so not sure if that will help or hurt me since the dealer won’t get any finance kick-backs. The normal dealer add on fees for registration I’m going to attempt to say no, just gimme the car and I’ll do registration, title and taxes all myself at my sub courthouse. That’s stuff is not rocket science. Did it with my Harley when it was purchased out of state and it was no problem.
Sticker was $50k. It was a couple factory incentives $2000, military discount (I'm retired military) $1000, and they price matched another dealership (memorial day sale, dealer discount) $2000. I still had to pay taxes and dumb dealer doc fees. Out the door was $48k. 6% sales tax included. Dont let them make you think they will only honor rebates. They have room to deal above and beyond the rebates. These cars arent exactly flying off the lots. People dont know about them yet and SUVs are dominating the market.
 
There is 3000 of lease cash and 1000 of loyalty plus circle a. You would be a fool to pay cash. Lease it for a week and then buy it out and save yourself 3000.

That can be a good strategy but it is not $3k since there is the acquisition and disposition fees to pay. Should still save about $1,850 or so.
 
That can be a good strategy but it is not $3k since there is the acquisition and disposition fees to pay. Should still save about $1,850 or so.
Acquisition fee is 750. There is no disposition if you buy out of lease only if you turn in.
 
The normal dealer add on fees for registration I’m going to attempt to say no, just gimme the car and I’ll do registration, title and taxes all myself at my sub courthouse. That’s stuff is not rocket science. Did it with my Harley when it was purchased out of state and it was no problem.

In most, if not all, states that would not be allowed. Out of state purchases are handled differently.
 
The normal dealer add on fees for registration I’m going to attempt to say no, just gimme the car and I’ll do registration, title and taxes all myself at my sub courthouse. That’s stuff is not rocket science. Did it with my Harley when it was purchased out of state and it was no problem.
May depends on the state. I bought a few cars in MA when I lived in CT. They won't give you the car until registered, but you just took the paperwork and a check for the tax due to the DMV. Travel time aside, takes minutes at the DMV once you get to a clerk.
 
Thanks, that is different than anyone here has reported but they could have been talking in general and not anything specific.
I have bought several cars out of lease there no fee when you do that. That’s why they call it a disposition fee it’s to turn it in. Since they have to inspect paperwork yada yada in theory.
 
I have bought several cars out of lease there no fee when you do that. That’s why they call it a disposition fee it’s to turn it in. Since they have to inspect paperwork yada yada in theory.

That makes sense, I think I might be thinking of an early termination or purchase fee which I believe some charge.
 
My 53k awd sport I just leased for cap cost of 8500 off msrp. There is 3000 of lease cash and 1000 of loyalty plus circle a. You would be a fool to pay cash. Lease it for a week and then buy it out and save yourself 3000.
Never leased before so know very little about that process? Always thought you got nickeled and dimed with fees and such and then there is the MF that I hear dealers jack around with to add to the confusion on pricing. Plus had heard if you buy at the end of lease you get to pay sales taxes again and even more fees. Also thought leases just allowed folks to take home more car than one could actually afford to buy so why lease unless you want to change cars every few years? I’ve never had a car fewer than 5 years, and usually keep them 8 and in perfect condition still.
 
Never leased before so know very little about that process? Always thought you got nickeled and dimed with fees and such and then there is the MF that I hear dealers jack around with to add to the confusion on pricing. Plus had heard if you buy at the end of lease you get to pay sales taxes again and even more fees. Also thought leases just allowed folks to take home more car than one could actually afford to buy so why lease unless you want to change cars every few years? I’ve never had a car fewer than 5 years, and usually keep them 8 and in perfect condition still.
You don't pay sales tax "again"; you pay tax for the purchase price. During the lease you pay tax on the lease payment every month. Some states may vary, but if you pay $400 a month lease you pay tax on $400. At the end of the lease you paid tax on $14,400. At the end, if you buy the car for $15,000 you pay tax on $15.000. If during the lease you put on excess miles you pay for that at turn-in. If you buy, there will be no excess miles charges.
 
Never leased before so know very little about that process? Always thought you got nickeled and dimed with fees and such and then there is the MF that I hear dealers jack around with to add to the confusion on pricing. Plus had heard if you buy at the end of lease you get to pay sales taxes again and even more fees. Also thought leases just allowed folks to take home more car than one could actually afford to buy so why lease unless you want to change cars every few years? I’ve never had a car fewer than 5 years, and usually keep them 8 and in perfect condition still.
If you keep your cars over 4 years then leasing is not for you. If you like to get new cars every 2-4 years then take a hard look at leasing because the leasing company is taking the residual value risk rather than you worrying about selling your car for enough money to cover your remaining loan. The lease payment is lowere because you’re only paying rent for 3 years, basically the difference between the sales price and the residual value when the lease expires.

For example, my ‘15 Genesis Ultimate lease ending now has a residual value of about $28k but you can buy a used low miles ‘15 for about $23k I think. Hyundai Finance propped up the RV and offered a near zero money factor in order to clear out the inventory in early ‘16. Result is I had a $400 payment on a car that stickered at $51k! Wish I could do that deal again!
 
If you keep your cars over 4 years then leasing is not for you. If you like to get new cars every 2-4 years then take a hard look at leasing because the leasing company is taking the residual value risk rather than you worrying about selling your car for enough money to cover your remaining loan. The lease payment is lowere because you’re only paying rent for 3 years, basically the difference between the sales price and the residual value when the lease expires.

For example, my ‘15 Genesis Ultimate lease ending now has a residual value of about $28k but you can buy a used low miles ‘15 for about $23k I think. Hyundai Finance propped up the RV and offered a near zero money factor in order to clear out the inventory in early ‘16. Result is I had a $400 payment on a car that stickered at $51k! Wish I could do that deal again!
I had a 379 payment on 53k 2016 ultimate. Same deal.

As it relates to money factors and lease versus buy. Many many times you are better leasing for 3 and buying at the end of lease. The current money factors are less than. 0.5%. The purchase rate is 1.9%. You could save 1.4% leasing the car for three years then buying it out at end. The only thing different leasing vs buying this car is $750 inception fee. You will more than make up for this by $3000 leasing cash to lower the price you are paying for the car. You would be a fool to purchase over lease at current offers. Rate Lowe. Price lower. Insulated from fmv of car in three years in case it tanks in value. If it lower than residual after three years I have even negotiated a new buy out cost with the manufacturer at three years to the lower value. Once it was $3k lower. That is just another 3k off msrp you never have to pay. I have had 20 cars in 15 years. I buy some. I lease some. Leasing is usually the way to go when rates are low. The problem is average joe will never know this and the dealer certainly won’t help you make the right decision 99% of time. Most people go In asking for a Payment. This is the dumbest thing you could ever do. Negotiate the price of the car. Then Find out the rates lease vs buy. Then make your decision.

The only argument against this is if you are going to pay straight cash. Even then if there is a significant lease incentive lease it for a week and buy it out at the Lower price.

If you are worried about miles buy it out at the end. Non issue. There is no termination fee either ($400 on these cars ) when you buy them out.

By the way take your money factor x2400. This is the interest rate. So if .00014 your lease rate is 0.336%.

Good luck.
 
If you keep your cars over 4 years then leasing is not for you.

I think to point is that even if leasing is not for you, if you are getting lease cash, lease anyway and they pay if off with cash which is what the OP intended to do in the first place. So it’s a win for the OP.
 
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I think to point is that even if leasing is not for you, if you are getting lease cash, lease anyway and they pay if off with cash which is what the OP intended to do in the first place. So it’s a win for the OP.

This is 100% accurate. Owning a car more than four years has nothing to do with lease vs buy.
 
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I think to point is that even if leasing is not for you, if you are getting lease cash, lease anyway and they pay if off with cash which is what the OP intended to do in the first place. So it’s a win for the OP.
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I think to point is that even if leasing is not for you, if you are getting lease cash, lease anyway and they pay if off with cash which is what the OP intended to do in the first place. So it’s a win for the OP.


Edit: sorry quoted wrong post. Using my phone and playing with the grandson. :)

I think more calculations need to be done to make sure it is worth taking the lease cash. I should have put it in my previous post but since the purchase price of the car through a lease would be the residual and that is based on MSRP, you will effectively be losing a good portion of your discount by leasing and then buying. In situations where little discount from MSRP can be had that wouldn’t be a problem but with big discounts it may wipe out the lease cash advantage.
 
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