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Oil light is for pressure, NOT adequate quantity. Allow oil condition could yield adequate pressure, but starve a bearing at startup.
 
Maybe it would be useful for to explain the exact time-line of events. It now sounds like you had no symptoms or problems, and took it in (or they picked it up) for an oil change and dealer told you engine is damaged because not enough oil in crankcase?

Sounds to me like they drained the oil, forgot to refill (happens at many dealers based on automotive forums I read) and then they drive the car or run the engine for some reason, and ruin the engine, and then they blame the manufacturer (they probably put some oil back in crankcase after they realized the engine was ruined so they would have a plausible story about not enough oil from the factory).

Now that sounds likely at a dealer!
 
Oil light is for pressure, NOT adequate quantity. Allow oil condition could yield adequate pressure, but starve a bearing at startup.
Depends on how low is low. If it low enough to quickly damage the engine, then in most cars the oil pressure light would come on, and the owner would have noticed some other symptoms. But you are correct that 2 quarts down would not likely cause oil pressure light to come on (one quart down is not really a problem for the engine).
 
I know where this is going an oil sensor would be nice but only if its in addition to the dip stick. Always check your oil. Dealers will tell you burning a quart every 1k is normal. Whatever the case i always check oil.

Ppp
 
I know where this is going an oil sensor would be nice but only if its in addition to the dip stick. Always check your oil. Dealers will tell you burning a quart every 1k is normal. Whatever the case i always check oil.

Ppp

Except some cars don't have a dip stick and the owner has to trust the computer system to show the oil level, which is what I have to do with my Mercedes. The Mercedes also will message in the instrument cluster if it needs a quart of oil.
 
I know where this is going an oil sensor would be nice but only if its in addition to the dip stick. Always check your oil. Dealers will tell you burning a quart every 1k is normal. Whatever the case i always check oil.

Ppp
It has been a very long time since any car I have owned has used a quart of oil in-between oil changes, much less every 1000 miles. Using that much oil is not normal anymore, although I don't have any experience with Ford, GM, or Chrysler.
 
Except some cars don't have a dip stick and the owner has to trust the computer system to show the oil level, which is what I have to do with my Mercedes. The Mercedes also will message in the instrument cluster if it needs a quart of oil.
Is it true that many MB must have oil sucked out from the top of engine bay because there is no oil drain valve at the bottom?
 
Most dash oil lights only respond to a lack of oil pressure. A pressure switch is screwed into the side of the engine block typically near the oil filter; as long as there is 10psi or more oil pressure the dash light is OFF. That's 10psi at one spot inside the engine... not everywhere in the engine. Engine parts far away can easily have zero oil flow... or even if they did, 10psi might not be enough to shove the oil between the moving metal parts so the oil does no good.

Oil will build up a film on parts so loss of oil doesn't mean instant catastrophic death; often the engine will run for a few minutes/miles with virtually no damage. My folks had an oil shop not tighten the drain plug on a car years ago; after picking up the car they drove a couple miles to a small grocery store. When they came out there was an oil slick visible; the dash oil pressure gauge (not idiot light - a real pressure display) indicated some oil pressure so they drove back to the shop. By the time they got there the oil pan was empty. Didn't seem to hurt the engine though; that was years and years ago and I have that car now - with 150K miles. Last year that oil pressure sensor busted apart - I was leaving a thin oil trail from my house half way to work. It took a few miles before the dash gauge read low pressure. Engine survived that too... I'm still driving that car to/from work quite frequently.

If there are shavings in the oil that means (to me) a) obviously the block and/or cyl heads have significant damage and b) the oil starvation was severe and fairly long term - more than just a few minutes.

Hyundai and the dealer should give you a new car (for goodwill and word of mouth advertising) and put a new engine in this one, keeping it. It can become the dealer's Equus loaner car to minimize the financial pain.

mike c.
 
Is it true that many MB must have oil sucked out from the top of engine bay because there is no oil drain valve at the bottom?

No, drain is same just have to remove the plastic underside cover like the genny. Car has to be level for all the oil to drain. So some DIY folks use a pump to suck it out from the top, I guess they think its easier or have no way to lift the car and keep it level.
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Update: Contacted by the Regional Service Manager that my request has been sent up to the "chain". They are moving forward with replacing my engine and that they will need me to use my car as the "loaner" when it is fixed. States that the process could take up to a month to resolve.

Received a call from the Service Manager where my car is being worked on. Very apologetic and understands why I am requesting a new car. Stated that my car would be ready early next week.

Need to say that everyone I have spoken with at Hyundai is very professional and they seem to want a quick resolution to this issue.

Stay tuned.........
 
Update: Contacted by the Regional Service Manager that my request has been sent up to the "chain". They are moving forward with replacing my engine and that they will need me to use my car as the "loaner" when it is fixed. States that the process could take up to a month to resolve.

Received a call from the Service Manager where my car is being worked on. Very apologetic and understands why I am requesting a new car. Stated that my car would be ready early next week.

Need to say that everyone I have spoken with at Hyundai is very professional and they seem to want a quick resolution to this issue.

Stay tuned.........
As with the original post, we are totally confused as to what is happening. Did they agree to replace your entire car with a brand new one or not? Obviously, even if they replace your entire car with a new one, they will replace the engine on the old one, but that is not what we (and you) want to know.

Just in case they plan on fixing your old car and returning it to you, you should keep detailed records on how long they have had the car, and check you state Lemon Laws (Google) for when you can file a claim for a new one if they try and give your old back to you.
 
They have not agreed on anything as of yet.

They have started to replace the engine on my car. When that is complete, they want me to return my loaner and then drive my car, (with the new engine), until the issue of the buy back is resolved.

They are stating that the repairs on my car will be complete by the end of next week.

I have already contacted an attorney and am taking very detailed notes.
 
They have not agreed on anything as of yet.

They have started to replace the engine on my car. When that is complete, they want me to return my loaner and then drive my car, (with the new engine), until the issue of the buy back is resolved.

They are stating that the repairs on my car will be complete by the end of next week.

I have already contacted an attorney and am taking very detailed notes.

Good to hear they are working on your car, and in a timely manner.

I have my suspicions though: they have not agreed to anything, and want you to drive your car (with the new motor) while they resolve the buy back.

My suspicion is that once you are back in your car, they will stall, stonewall and ignore the issue in the hopes that you will go away.

If it were me, I would demand they put the car up on a rack for you to inspect the underside, and give the car a complete once over BEFORE turning in the loaner. I am sure there will be things that look not Factory fresh like scuffs, scratches and chips in the paint, clips not re-installed properly, etc.

At that point, do NOT take delivery. Pick flysh!t out of pepper, so to speak. Stay in their loaner car. This lets them know you are not going to just lay down over the whole issue. If it becomes a constant source of irritation to them, they may deem a buy back the path of least resistance for themselves.

Just my $.02; keep us updated!
 
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Here is the conclusion:

They put in a new engine and asked me to return the loaner. Spoke with a friend who is a lemon law attorney and he stated that my request does not fit the lemon law requirements at this point in time. (30 days in the shop or returning a car three times for the same issue)

The car looked brand new when I picked it up as they did wash and detail. The car also drives fine with no apparent issues.

I then received a Fedex envelope that needed to be signed for. It was a letter from Hyundai Corporate that stated that my request for a new car would not be granted. But, if the issue persisted, (problem with the engine), and it hit the lemon law standards, that a buyback would be revisited.

They also were apologetic for what has occurred and will be giving me some $$ for my inconvenience.

Overall, I am satisfied with how this was handled and keeping my fingers crossed that the new engine works fine!
 
They also were apologetic for what has occurred and will be giving me some $$ for my inconvenience.

Only two dollar signs? :D
 
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