Oil change in 5.0 R spec

[sownman]

I'm an old guy so my experience with new cars goes back many years and into periods when manufacturing techniques were less quality than today, bujt I still do it because hey, its can't hurt. However.....

I still avoid hard acceleration and braking and constant speeds for the first 1000 miles then usually do an 1000 mile oil change and then start an every 5000 mile change for the life of the car, they last me forever.

My 5.0 R spec now has 1300 miles and I was thinking about a switch to synthetic oil now. Any experience or thoughts on this ? If I do go synthetic oil I was thinking of a 10,000 mile change schedule rather than 5,000.

Thanks

Steve

 

[Philth]

As you may or may not know, some R-Spec owners have been experiencing oil consumption. Switching to synthetic on "extended drains" would certainly be a wise choice, but for warranty purposes, I wouldn't go farther than 7,500 miles (or whatever the maximum OCI your owner's manual suggests).

 

[thebells]

What he ^ said. But frankly, I know the economy sucks in a lot of areas (mine included), but you are talking about a $40k-$45k car that makes 429hp. I'd stick to the max 5k oil changes if it were me, synthetic or not and chalk the added cost up to 'peace of mind'.

My car is a lowly 3.8 V6 making just 333hp and I'll have her oil changed every 3-3.5k. $42, including a "free" car wash, is some of the best money I think you can spend on these complex cars.

BTW,

 

[EXBMWGUY]

Steve, I'm like you (probably older), and have done either 1,000 or 3,000 mile initial oil changes, followed by 7,500 mile OCIs on most of my cars. Full synthetics are my personal preference, but like Philth said, you probably should not exceed 7,500 miles during warranty. Also, you might want to check the oil every time you fuel up until you're comfortable with oil consumption levels, if any, for your particular car.

 

[Mark_888]

If I do go synthetic oil I was thinking of a 10,000 mile change schedule rather than 5,000.

Synthetic is a good idea. But anything past 7500 mile oil change interval is not even an option, since it automatically voids your 10 year / 100K mile powertrain warranty (if you are the original owner or purchased a CPO vehicle).

 

[wd40]

Dealer told me synthetic was not necessary, but i changed to synthetic-5K changes-oil is still relatively inexpensive. I'm an old guy too-so when i retired i started doing it on my own. Synthetic is pretty cheap at Walmart. Cheers to old guys.

 

[427435]

I put in Mobil 1 5w-30 at 1800 miles. I'm going to change it again at 7500 miles and send a sample to Blackstone lab for an analysis. I'm only at 3400 miles now, so it will be a few more months.

 

[brfatal]

I put in Mobil 1 5w-30 at 1800 miles. I'm going to change it again at 7500 miles and send a sample to Blackstone lab for an analysis. I'm only at 3400 miles now, so it will be a few more months.

I suggest switching what oil you use. 5w30 Mobile 1 specifically is known for shearing down to lower viscosity. For some car makes that run hot enough, this has been known to ruin engines.

 

[Mark_888]

I suggest switching what oil you use. 5w30 Mobile 1 specifically is known for shearing down to lower viscosity. For some car makes that run hot enough, this has been known to ruin engines.

Where did you come up with piece of BS?

BTW:

• Hyundai recommends 5W-20 for the Genesis
• It Mobil 1, not Mobile 1

 

[DRS]

FYI... There are many threads about poor oil consumption on the 5.0. I know have over 4k on Kendall 5-20 synthetic. I have been a Mobil 1 fan for decades. The Kendall was recommended locally bAnd I do like it a bunch. ZERO oil burn so far. Exactly where it started on the oil stick. Will be changing it next week, trying the last bottles of Pennzoil Ultimate 5-20 in the city. Many folks on here have been saying this is the best for the 5.0 due to lack of PCV deposits on the intake valves (DI, so they do not get cleaned). Been scouring Walmart and auto parts stores who seem to be blowing it out and not carrying it anymore. Pennzoil says it is still in production.

Also, I have a thread (as do many others on here) about the filter... And which design is right. I have pictures of the oil filter fitting and filters.

It seems strange not to yet be using Mobil One Extended drain. May go back to it as I use it on all other cars and trucks. I have diesels and gas engines with bid mileage on them, and no oil burning or loss.

And I do not plan to go over 5k in changes.

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[427435]

Where did you come up with piece of BS?

BTW:

• Hyundai recommends 5W-20 for the Genesis
• It Mobil 1, not Mobile 1

X2 on the the request for the BS. One of the advantages of any reputable synthetic oil (which Mobil 1 is) is that there is little (or no) shear down.

Hyundai's manual also OK's 5w-30. I'm more concerned about getting 200,000 miles out of the engine than a tiny bit of mpg.

BTW, I haven't seen any oil consumption yet------no movement on the dipstick at all.

 

[Mark_888]

As I mentioned in another thread, Kendall is identical to Phillips 66 and Union 76 synthetic brands (since all were owned by ConocoPhillips and now owned by Phillips 66, which was spun off as the refining/marketing company recently).

The Kendall/Phillips/Union synthetics are a good quality Group III Synthetic motor (Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized mineral oil). Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge Syntec, Valvoline Syntec, etc are other Group III synthetic motor oils. It would not surprise me if the Kendall/Phillips/Union motor oils are made by some other company for Phillips 66, but I don't know, and these things change over time.

Mobil 1 formulations vary somewhat by viscosity, but the ones sold in the US have about 35% Group III synthetics and the rest is made from Group IV PAO, and some Group V Esters. Other brands with similar formulations include Pennzoil Ultimate, Castrol Edge Titanium, etc. Note that motor oil cannot contain titanium (a metal with a very high melting point), and if you read the Castrol fine print, it says "Titanium Fluid Strength Technology" which is about the most insulting marketing gimmick I have every heard.

Motor oils sold as "synthetic" in Germany are required by German regulations to be made entirely from Group IV PAO and/or Group V Esters (no hydrocracked Group III components). These motor oils are sometimes sold in the US as European Formula motor oils (such as Mobil 1 0W-40) but they should not be used in most American or Asian cars to to its higher viscosity, and because the amount of phosphorous and zinc is not suitable for engines/emissions systems on those cars.

However, if I had a Genesis 5.0 that used more than a quart between oil changes, I might be tempted to try Mobil 1 0W-40 to see if that helps.

 

[Rudderman98]

I take my car to the dealer for oil changes.

When I asked which oil they use, I was told Chevron synthetic. I've brought it in as required per the manual plus I get notifications from my dealer to let me know when it's oil change time.

If my engines going to blow, it will be replaced by the dealer. Everything is documented online and that's what Hyundai corporate will require if the worst should happen. I'm not too worried about the oil I use as long as it's approved by the dealer and covered under the warranty.

Now my other cars.....

 

[sownman]

Thanks for all the great responses. I never do the 3500 or 7500 options, being an old guy the math gets too complex. I'll switch to Mobil 1 and keep the 5000 mile habit that I can stick to. I had a Corvette years ago that required synthetic. My cars, despite hard driving always last a long time.

Steve

 

[PMCErnie]

Dealer told me synthetic was not necessary, but i changed to synthetic-5K changes-oil is still relatively inexpensive. I'm an old guy too-so when i retired i started doing it on my own. Synthetic is pretty cheap at Walmart. Cheers to old guys.

I take my car to the dealer for oil changes.

When I asked which oil they use, I was told Chevron synthetic. I've brought it in as required per the manual plus I get notifications from my dealer to let me know when it's oil change time.

If my engines going to blow, it will be replaced by the dealer. Everything is documented online and that's what Hyundai corporate will require if the worst should happen. I'm not too worried about the oil I use as long as it's approved by the dealer and covered under the warranty.

Now my other cars.....

Precisely.

 

[brfatal]

Where did you come up with piece of BS?

BTW:

• Hyundai recommends 5W-20 for the Genesis
• It Mobil 1, not Mobile 1

This is something that's been known in the automotive enthusiast community for a decade. Call any company that does UOAs (used oil analysis). Here, I'll even give you one: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ Remember to mention 5w30 specifically.

And clearly a 1 letter typo invalidates what I said.... If 5w20 is fine, then great (I haven't done an oil change on it yet), however the point being made is that that specific oil wears relatively quickly and is known for not holding its advertised viscosity very well.

X2 on the the request for the BS. One of the advantages of any reputable synthetic oil (which Mobil 1 is) is that there is little (or no) shear down.

Then by your definition that grade of Mobil 1 has never been a reputable synthetic oil.

To help you interpret it:

 

[Mark_888]

This is something that's been known in the automotive enthusiast community for a decade.

I think what you meant to say is that for over a decade, peddlers of Amsoil have slandered and libeled Mobil 1 repeatedly in attempt to sell their own products, which is interesting because the "true synthetic" Amsoil products are not even API certified (and thus will void the Hyundai warranty). Of course Amsoil now makes 3 different grades of synthetic, to use in a bait and switch scheme, once people find out how much the "true synthetic" oil will cost.

I have read many posts on various websites regarding Blackstone tests on Mobil 1, and aside from slightly higher than average levels of metals (probably because of Mobil 1 excellent detergents and ability to hold them in suspension), I have never seen an honest complaint from someone who did a Blackstone test using Mobil 1. I am sure that one of favorite pranks of the Amsoil "community" is to send in samples or some really crappy oil and tell Blackstone that it is Mobil 1 5W-30.

Whether or not Mobil 1 is the best synthetic motor oil is debatable, and product formulations do change over time, but Mobil 1 far exceeds the specifications required by Hyundai (which doesn't even require anything better than conventional mineral oil).

 

[427435]

I think what you meant to say is that for over a decade, peddlers of Amsoil have slandered and libeled Mobil 1 repeatedly in attempt to sell their own products, which is interesting because the "true synthetic" Amsoil products are not even API certified (and thus will void the Hyundai warranty). Of course Amsoil now makes 3 different grades of synthetic, to use in a bait and switch scheme, once people find out how much the "true synthetic" oil will cost.

I have read many posts on various websites regarding Blackstone tests on Mobil 1, and aside from slightly higher than average levels of metals (probably because of Mobil 1 excellent detergents and ability to hold them in suspension), I have never seen an honest complaint from someone who did a Blackstone test using Mobil 1. I am sure that one of favorite pranks of the Amsoil "community" is to send in samples or some really crappy oil and tell Blackstone that it is Mobil 1 5W-30.

Whether or not Mobil 1 is the best synthetic motor oil is debatable, and product formulations do change over time, but Mobil 1 far exceeds the specifications required by Hyundai (which doesn't even require anything better than conventional mineral oil).

Exactly.

 

[DRS]

As I mentioned in another thread, Kendall is identical to Phillips 66 and Union 76 synthetic brands (since all were owned by ConocoPhillips and now owned by Phillips 66, which was spun off as the refining/marketing company recently).

The Kendall/Phillips/Union synthetics are a good quality Group III Synthetic motor (Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized mineral oil). Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge Syntec, Valvoline Syntec, etc are other Group III synthetic motor oils. It would not surprise me if the Kendall/Phillips/Union motor oils are made by some other company for Phillips 66, but I don't know, and these things change over time.

Mobil 1 formulations vary somewhat by viscosity, but the ones sold in the US have about 35% Group III synthetics and the rest is made from Group IV PAO, and some Group V Esters. Other brands with similar formulations include Pennzoil Ultimate, Castrol Edge Titanium, etc. Note that motor oil cannot contain titanium (a metal with a very high melting point), and if you read the Castrol fine print, it says "Titanium Fluid Strength Technology" which is about the most insulting marketing gimmick I have every heard.

Motor oils sold as "synthetic" in Germany are required by German regulations to be made entirely from Group IV PAO and/or Group V Esters (no hydrocracked Group III components). These motor oils are sometimes sold in the US as European Formula motor oils (such as Mobil 1 0W-40) but they should not be used in most American or Asian cars to to its higher viscosity, and because the amount of phosphorous and zinc is not suitable for engines/emissions systems on those cars.

However, if I had a Genesis 5.0 that used more than a quart between oil changes, I might be tempted to try Mobil 1 0W-40 to see if that helps.

It helps. Thanks for taking the time again.

 

[brfatal]

I think what you meant to say is that for over a decade, peddlers of Amsoil have slandered and libeled Mobil 1 repeatedly in attempt to sell their own products, which is interesting because the "true synthetic" Amsoil products are not even API certified (and thus will void the Hyundai warranty). Of course Amsoil now makes 3 different grades of synthetic, to use in a bait and switch scheme, once people find out how much the "true synthetic" oil will cost.

Except these were posted by regular Subaru enthusiasts, not just a random "hey look" posts. There are plenty of these to go around, so unless Amsoil is hiring people with lots of posts on various forums, your attribution is quite far fetched.