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Inside door "grips" on 2013 coupe

You can post the URL if you want. I'd rather it not be LINKED, however, as I told a few people spamming for that site years ago that I'd never allow links as a result of their persistence.
I'll try to keep that in mind. It's a bit crippling to not use existing information (at a click) in this age, but it's your sandbox. ;)
 
I have the base model. The purchase was somewhat of a whim for me. I love the body style, but I'm also a cheap ba$tard. Once I compared prices and features, I decided that $16K for a 2013 model (w/20K miles) 2.0T was all I needed. Having grown up as a teen in the 70's, and after restoring a 69' Z/28 8yrs ago, I soon realized that using its full power was nearly futile. Laws, society, traffic congestion, etc., has changed almost everything for muscle car enthusiasts. Beside turning heads, my only thrill was to do loop trips on & off I-85; killing it on on-ramps and entering traffic at 100+mph....praying that there wouldn't be a state trooper in the mix. The 2.0T is as much car as a 3.8 or even 5.0 in today's "real life" setting (in my world :-)). Even when traveling on county/country roads, wanting to open it up....to know that I could have a car that would beat my 2.0T by a second or two.....is now a silly factor, for me. Did I mention that I'm a practical (cheap) person? :D. But I digress............
I hear what you're saying. I've made the same argument at times regarding the 3.8 vs other cars. Yet, there's a huge performance, handling and ride difference between yours and mine and that difference doesn't require anything like full power to feel.

It's not just the V6 (which feels, sounds, and behaves like a small V8), but a whole different setup, with special springs and struts and sways, a strut bar, a manual tranny, Brembo brakes, bigger wheels and tires, and a Torsen (posi) differential, racing seats, with a good 200lbs less weight (from the Track/Ultimate) due to removing some of the heaviest luxury features. The result is a much harsher ride my back sometimes notices, but a real and immediate difference in how the car feels and responds in all kinds of situations. Makes for some very fun commuting without even pushing it at all.

In your spirited example, it would be the difference of putting car lengths on you during the short ramp turns, nearing traffic at 140, slowing instantly to 70 to merge in, change lanes, then back up to 100, etc, all with no body roll or brake fade, and without even working the engine very hard. Not trying to talk junk at all, but there really is a big difference.

That said, I also paid twice as much as you for a new 3.8 R-Spec with an extended warranty, service plan, and several other dealer options as well as higher insurance rates. I also rarely see more than 28MPG on trips (using Shell, but Chevron will push 30 or more), and usually 22-25 or so around town. The ride, as I said, is very stiff, particularly with nitrogen-filled tires at 37psi, and I forget how stiff it is until I drive another car or have a passenger give me feedback. There is no cruise control, which is something I've rarely used anyway, but sometimes it would be helpful to have.

The 2012 Track had "everything" except the racing seats, but then it's also heavier, and that would have bothered me. I thought about the Base, Premium or GT models, as they have all or most of the luxury items (in different combos) without any of the "Track-Tuned Suspension" stuff. Being a long-time performance and hotrod kind of guy, I wanted a manual and racing suspension more than I wanted a sunroof or power seats. I don't need a NAV at all as I use Google Maps, and I think the Base audio system used in the R-Specs, with careful EQ settings, sounds so good I've forgotten about upgrading it. Though, the 3.8 R-Spec has a few luxo features the 2.0T R-Spec doesn't have, so it's not like either/or.

Many people don't realize how different the various Coupe trims are, and I'd estimate a majority of discussion on other forums is based on someone saying all Coupes are just like the one they are driving. Yet, they're not THAT different, and the basic body is the same beautiful, classic design, which, as you know, gets a LOT of attention ;)
 
What a pointless troll. There are just as many basic mods for the 3.8 as for the 2.0T. They cost more, but it's not like they don't exist. The real point is the 3.8 doesn't need cheapo Cali mods in order to be a fun, fast engine.
 
What a pointless troll. There are just as many basic mods for the 3.8 as for the 2.0T. They cost more, but it's not like they don't exist. The real point is the 3.8 doesn't need cheapo Cali mods in order to be a fun, fast engine.
Are "Cali mods", whatever those are, how you knocked a full second off your 1/4 time and 0-60?
Be realistic, now.

My "pointless" post was in response to your pointless post that isn't relevant to his 2.0T.

Fwiw, most basic BK1 mods are about the same in cost and benefit. That is until we talk tuning and real performance mods, in which case the 2.0 has the dollar to smiles ratio in the bag.
 
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I hear what you're saying. I've made the same argument at times regarding the 3.8 vs other cars. Yet, there's a huge performance, handling and ride difference between yours and mine and that difference doesn't require anything like full power to feel.

I hear what you're saying, as well, but would beg to differ on "ride difference" and "handling" (not power). As you know, ride quality can come down to simply, a set of tires...suited for your kind of driving. Handling can be dictated by a myriad of factors, including, a heavier engine :-). I'll guess that you've never spent much/any time in a 2.0T, and readily admit that I've spent no appreciable time in a 3.8 GC. Having said that, I can only say that, the sport suspension in my car is awesome and true to design. I suspect that our cars share a lot in common :-).

It's not just the V6 (which feels, sounds, and behaves like a small V8), but a whole different setup, with special springs and struts and sways, a strut bar, a manual tranny, Brembo brakes, bigger wheels and tires, and a Torsen (posi) differential, racing seats, with a good 200lbs less weight (from the Track/Ultimate) due to removing some of the heaviest luxury features. The result is a much harsher ride my back sometimes notices, but a real and immediate difference in how the car feels and responds in all kinds of situations. Makes for some very fun commuting without even pushing it at all.

It's funny, but my first, actual "trip" in my car was to my folk's home, 200 miles away. I've suffered from sciatica in the past 15yrs, and dreaded what this "new" car would do to me, as opposed to my Honda Accord. OMG....didn't have to stop and stretch once....a much more comfy drive than the Honda would have provided. And yes, I only use cruise conrol on trips like this, but it is a great feature. Actually, lol, this car is pretty aggressive when it comes out of a down-hill drive and into a up-hill. It feels like you put your foot to the floor:D.

In your spirited example, it would be the difference of putting car lengths on you during the short ramp turns, nearing traffic at 140, slowing instantly to 70 to merge in, change lanes, then back up to 100, etc, all with no body roll or brake fade, and without even working the engine very hard. Not trying to talk junk at all, but there really is a big difference.

Understood. The Camaro could not do this, despite the power it had. I had actually modernized it; 3rd gen power steering, did correct geometry change with upper/lower ball joints to accommodate front/rear drop, etc... The car handled like a modern day sport car, but....not exactly :-). The handling was much better than an original 69', but it was still lacking in nimbleness.

That said, I also paid twice as much as you for a new 3.8 R-Spec with an extended warranty, service plan, and several other dealer options as well as higher insurance rates. I also rarely see more than 28MPG on trips (using Shell, but Chevron will push 30 or more), and usually 22-25 or so around town. The ride, as I said, is very stiff, particularly with nitrogen-filled tires at 37psi, and I forget how stiff it is until I drive another car or have a passenger give me feedback. There is no cruise control, which is something I've rarely used anyway, but sometimes it would be helpful to have.

And that's ^ the rub. I'm 57 come Sept., and I'm trying to same some nuts for winter :). If you get 28 hwy on trips, that's pretty damn good. My car tells me that I get 31.5, but my own calculations put it at a real 29.5. I'm totally cool with that. City? Sheeeet...I'm lucky to get 17..

As far as a "stiff ride"? I've spent hours (late night googling after work) comparing ratings of tires (I'm going to need a set soon). I'm split between Michelin Pilot Super Sport, Continental Extreme Contact and Hankook Ventus S1. And yes, to clarify....looking for a tire that will perform...and last 30K+ miles. The "summer" tires rated for our cars is crazy. Lucky to get 20K for summer tires. The Michelins are top rated, but are reportedly Noisy. The 3 I mentioned are also rated highly for performance (in all season cat.).
 
Thanks, dbx. I understand what you mean. The manual helps a lot with mileage, especially around town, but it doesn't take much to pull it down. That's a tough call on the tires, though, as there are SO many choices, opinions, claims, etc. I'd decided just to limit my selection to Bridgestone Potenzas to make it easier ;)
 
Thanks, dbx. I understand what you mean. The manual helps a lot with mileage, especially around town, but it doesn't take much to pull it down. That's a tough call on the tires, though, as there are SO many choices, opinions, claims, etc. I'd decided just to limit my selection to Bridgestone Potenzas to make it easier ;)

Yeah, seriously, I researched/studied the tires for over a week (I usually kill my only 2-3hrs after work doing such things, lol). Trust me on this, the 3 that I mentioned are probably the best bang for your buck. The performance level and price is a winner. Check it out: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=UHPAS

It's interesting, because you can omit "S" (snow) if you live in a region like I do. Like you, I love the performance of my Pontenza's, but....they're the originals and have 23K on them now...and are in need of replacing. These tires don't rate high at all, and their feedback by owners is filled with, "Great tire, but wish they could have lasted 20K", etc..

I hate the fact the Michelins might be a tad noisy, but they are hands down, the best rated for wear and handling, as well as #1 for dry/wet traction after extreme wear. A lot of folks try to save that extra, "$25+ per tire", but don't think out the actual savings that the extra $100+ cost them initially. Edit: I also forgot to mention that the ride on those 3 is also much smoother than with a "HP summer tire".....without sacrificing any appreciable handling/response.
 
This post is very interesting for me too. I have a 2013 coupe that I've now just owned for a month. Interior is almost perfect except for the same damage to the passenger handles. Same sort of peeling, but not as much as previously posted. See photo. I've pretty well decided to just ignore it, since it is so minimal.
 

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This post is very interesting for me too. I have a 2013 coupe that I've now just owned for a month. Interior is almost perfect except for the same damage to the passenger handles. Same sort of peeling, but not as much as previously posted. See photo. I've pretty well decided to just ignore it, since it is so minimal.
Welcome aboard! And thank you for signing up. :)

Yeah, I'd probably ignore that as well. I suppose we found a spot where Hyundai went a little cheap with the Genesis Coupe. But something's got to give when you're selling a lot of car for a little money. The first generation Genesis Sedan had ONE cooled seat. :p
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This post is very interesting for me too. I have a 2013 coupe that I've now just owned for a month. Interior is almost perfect except for the same damage to the passenger handles. Same sort of peeling, but not as much as previously posted. See photo. I've pretty well decided to just ignore it, since it is so minimal.

I knew there had to be others with this issue. My passenger side (the one in the pic) grip was "perfect" until an air freshener that I hung contacted it. My driver's side was just on the top edge, probably due to the 1st owner wearing a ring.
 
I knew there had to be others with this issue. My passenger side (the one in the pic) grip was "perfect" until an air freshener that I hung contacted it. My driver's side was just on the top edge, probably due to the 1st owner wearing a ring.

I can say for sure it's a material defect. I bought a new 2014 2.0 and after 3 months the drivers side handle started to bubble...so did the top of the auto gear stick as it has the same sort of frosted plasticky covering.

I think the heat makes it worse. The car was black too...2 weeks ago I got 2015 3.8 MT and immediately got a sunshade and soon tinted windows for heat reduction r coming...got a white car this time. We' ll see
 
Thanks for fixing pic! And yes, that's ^ what I plan on doing. The pic doesn't show it clearly, but this is the passenger side...and the one that air freshener affected. I believe the coating should have been removed when first purchased, but that the original owner didn't know to do it. Therefore, heat/time hardened the thin coating to the point where it no longer was obvious what it was. The other pic that I wasn't able to post is of the driver's side, and it appears clear the the surface beneath is a perfect, shiny, chrome type of finish. I just wanted confirmation from those who may know for sure. The interior of this car is nearly flawless, with this handle issue being the one exception (and mystery).

I'll be sure to post a conclusion to this when I've got some time to attend to it (by the weekend, for sure).
You can buy new ones at hyundiaonlineparts.net I got new ones for my 2013 around $27.00 each
 
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