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5.0 L V8 Oil/Filter Change 2015

I've always changed my own oil/filter on my vehicles, and until this car it was always from underneath. But with the hassle of removing the panels, I've switched on my V6 Genesis to the suction method. I have the MightyVac hand pump model and it does just fine. The volume it extracts is 7+ quarts so I'm confident I'm getting it all. For the filter, I followed another's suggestion and purchased a low-profile socket. Then I cut off the bottom of a milk jug so there is just a one-inch or so lip, and put it under the filter once I'm able to hand-loosen it, to catch the oil during removal. Using this method, I've found it's actually quicker to change than my other other vehicles! I cannot comment on the V8 as to whether there is room to reach down from the front, but I am more than satisfied with this method for my V6!
 
I cannot comment on the V8 as to whether there is room to reach down from the front, but I am more than satisfied with this method for my V6!
Pretty sure (based on other posts) there is not enough room to reach the oil filter from the top on the V8.
 
Pretty sure (based on other posts) there is not enough room to reach the oil filter from the top on the V8.

No way could you access the oil filter on the V8 from above the engine. And, in any case, you still need to remove the front splash panel to access said filter - and that's half the job.

The rear panel extends almost to the center of the car and has to be removed solely to remove the pan plug which is almost laughable.
 
I remember seeing V8 oil changing instructions here somewhere, but now I can't find them. Can someone post a link? Does the oil filter direction matter?
 
I remember seeing V8 oil changing instructions here somewhere, but now I can't find them. Can someone post a link? Does the oil filter direction matter?
The oil filter is NOT directional.
 
Great. I didn't think so. I remember that someone posted pictures of the oil change, but I couldn't find it.
 
Great. I didn't think so. I remember that someone posted pictures of the oil change, but I couldn't find it.

I don't think there is really a start to finish tutorial w/pictures on the 5.0 V8 engine on the forum although people have posted as having done it - not too happily, either.

You have to remove the front splash panel to access the oil filter housing and the rear panel to access the drain plug. Filter placement is critical because it has to be placed symmetrically between two posts - one on the housing and one on the filter cap.

When I get around to doing it, I'm going to take Mark's lead and use a Mity-Vac to remove the oil first, if possible. This is essentially how Mercedes does it nowadays. And, you need a 24 mm socket for the filter cap and a six mm hex wrench for the "drain bolt".

Looks like lots of fun.
 
Great. I didn't think so. I remember that someone posted pictures of the oil change, but I couldn't find it.
Try using Google search engine with domain of genesisowners.com
 
The oil change is definitely a pain. But, it is only required every 7500 miles. I use Mobil 1 0w-30.

I definitely think if Hyundai put in removable panels for the filter and drain plug, life would be much easier. I might even do more frequent oil changes.
 
It cost me $50 to do it myself, but over $40 of the total was the 8.5 quarts of Mobil 1. I would cut my oil change interval to about 4000 miles if I didn't use full synthetic. I am not sure which would be less expensive, but I am more comfortable with the full synthetic and longer interval. In addition, the 7500 mile interval is less hassle.
 
By the way, I am probably one of the few people who put oil in the filter prior to screwing it on. I fill it about half way (all the way and then it seeps down). I have done this for years to reduce oil starvation.

I actually had an electric pump in a car years ago that would build the oil pressure prior to starting the car. The house from the pump replaced the drain plug. The pump was also used in oil changes to pump the oil out. I could use it in the Genesis strictly to pump the oil out for an oil change. There is really not enough room for the pump under the hood and modern oils are much better with cold lubrication. In addition, my car is garage kept in TX, so cold starts are less of an issue. I probably will not do this because of warranty questions and the hassle of installation will take many oil changes to make up the time.
 
I am using 0w-30 Mobil 1 because I like the high temp performance better than 0w-20, especially in TX. I am glad that the owner's manual says 0w-30 is allowed in the 5.0 engine.

I had another vehicle which I noticed slight valve tapping on 0w-20 (it was the preferred oil) and this went away when I used 0w-30.

The synthetic oil definitely flows much better than conventional oil.
 
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Im sure the oems know what oil is best for their Genesis.
 
Im sure the oems know what oil is best for their Genesis.
The auto manufacturer knows which oil viscosity is needed to get the maximum fuel mileage for EPA testing to met CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) targets that they are required to meet. That does not necessarily mean the recommended oil viscosity is best for engine longevity.
 
Mobil 1 was originally advertised and marketed in the mid-70's - when it was first introduced - as providing 5% better mileage than conventional oil. We had gas lines in the 70's for those that remember.

Mobil 1 easily pays for itself, if even a good fraction of that 5% rule still applies.
 
Everyone who has done the oil/filter change on the 2015 Genny V8 (including dealers) seems to agree that it is a first rate bear to remove the under panels that prevent ready access to the filter assembly and drain plug.

The long rear panel that covers the pan drain plug is particular hard to remove/replace.

My question is: Has anyone tried used something like the MityVac oil extractor to remove the oil on this engine? Then only the front panel has to be removed.

My thinking is the engine has a "cable" type dipstick and a convoluted dip tube to match, so the idea ain't so good.

Any ideas/experience?

I've done two oil changes so far, using a manual pump Mityvac. I've been able to get about 7.5 liters out with the pump and then catch another half liter when the filter comes off...so I think there is a liter to a half liter being left in the pan. I'm ok with that. On my 1st change I took off the front panel to access the filter. It wasn't too bad getting off and it was a bit more difficult to get back on, but again, quite doable. Probably 10 minutes to get off and 20 minutes to get back on. Maybe a bit less than that. I did not have to jack up the front end (not sure if I could in a way that would be helpful) to get to the filter, as it is pretty close to the front underside. There is no getting to that filter from above (2015 v8 5.0). I have discovered it is important not to over pump the mityvac as it causes something like cavitation, getting air bubbles in the exit tubing, which slows down or stops the oil evacuation. If you have a manual mityvac like mine, pump slowly until you get a good solid (and it will be slow, but no bubbles) exit stream, and then let it go....seems like 10-15 minutes to empty the pan. Please let me know if you have questions.
 
I've done two oil changes so far, using a manual pump Mityvac.
Long ago, I starting trying to extract oil with a couple of different manual pump extractor units, but gave up in frustration. However, the Mityvac 7300 works great, but requires an air compressor which provides constant suction and will remove more oil than using the drain plug (if you move the tube around a bit near the end of the extraction). Any air compressor will work with the 7300, even the smallest and cheapest ones (although most of the very small ones require a 12 volt cigarette lighter power source).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFN9WW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
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