Oil change info 3.8 V6 in pics

[G530]

Nice. I did the exact same procedure last week at 1100 miles. Used synthetic EP 5W-30 Mobil 1, Hyundai oil filter and the mityvac. All went very well. You used a lid for the container to catch oil filter to remove is a better idea. Thought i could use mityvac to suck a .25 quart from container but ended up using rags to soak oil to remove the tuberware. Did you torque oil filter housing? I used socket without correct torque this time.

 

[chris41]

I didn't think of sucking out the catch tray oil. Will do next time and still use the lid. No, I didn't torque the filter housing...just tightened until it stopped. The reason I'm not using Mobil 1 EP is I don't plan on going over 6k miles per change. But I may use the European formula 0W-30 just before winter in case it's still freakin bitter cold out and I want to wait a little longer on the next change.

I'm planning also to remove the bottom shield bolts and replace with stainless steel bolts with some grease on the threads. Someone else commented on the bolts corroding and unable to remove.

 

[Mark_888]

But I may use the European formula 0W-30 just before winter in case it's still freakin bitter cold out and I want to wait a little longer on the next change.

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy is fine. But I would not recommend a "true" European Formula in a Genesis or any Asian or American car (unless it has engine made by Audi, VW, MB, BMW, etc).

European Formula motor oil has lower levels of zinc and phosphorus (used to provide better wear protection) due to environmental restrictions, and technically does not meet Hyundai specs (if they ever wanted to get nasty about it). A European formula oil will say that right on the label if sold in the US (in most cases).

Mobil 1 EP now also comes in a 0W-20 viscosity if you live in a really cold place, but think I might lean toward Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy for a Hyundai.

 

[TEF]

nxt_v8, you've done a great job documenting the steps needed for an oil change. After looking at that overly-complicated mess Hyundai made of the shroud covering the engine bay, I vowed that I would only remove and reinstall it once. Nevertheless, your photos made that job easier. After my repair shop removed the shrouds and changed oil, I asked that they delay re installation until I added access ports for the filter and drain plug. Using t6061 tempered aluminum, I fabricated frames and pop riveted them to the shrouds to reinforce the two cutouts. I then fabricated corresponding aluminum cover plates and attached them with 1/4-20 flat head screws and speed nuts. Today, I returned to my garage and had the shrouds re-installed (hopefully for the last time). My next oil change involves removing three screws for each access port. The entire project cost at total of $10 for the aluminum, hardware and fasteners. Whether, I change oil myself or return to my garage, the modification should save considerable time and labor charges.

 

[jstkrsn]

This has to be one of the most detailed posts I have seen. Answered all of my questions. Thanks!

 

[sidewinder1]

seems way too much trouble to remove then reinstall the under body covers so i bought a topsider for $40. Haven't changed oil yet but it has good reviews. One thing from that video is he has the topsider higher than the engine so it is only using vacuum to draw the oil. i would recommend sitting it on the ground so that way it uses both vacuum and siphon effect to draw the oil out.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65MMnubY4DA&t=19s

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_390306_390306

There are coupons for $10 off $50 to bring it down to $40.

 

[Mark_888]

I have written posts on this forum several times over the years on the subject of oil extractors. I would not recommend any of the hand pump units (I tried two of them without much success). Instead, I highly recommend the MityVac 7300, which requires an external air compressor to create continuous suction. Any size air compressor will work, even the cheapest ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300...e=UTF8&qid=1498419495&sr=1-4&keywords=mityvac

 

[sidewinder1]

I have written posts on this forum several times over the years on the subject of oil extractors. I would not recommend any of the hand pump units (I tried two of them without much success). Instead, I highly recommend the MityVac 7300, which requires an external air compressor to create continuous suction. Any size air compressor will work, even the cheapest ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300...e=UTF8&qid=1498419495&sr=1-4&keywords=mityvac

I don't mean to dupe posts but i thought it would be more pertinent to have this discussion on this thread.

Can you tell me what problems you had with the hand pump units? Was it the topsider and if so what was the issue? I looked into the mityvac but seems too expensive and bulky so i went with the topsider. I've researched on youtube as well as on the web and seems mostly positive reviews.

 

[Mark_888]

I don't mean to dupe posts but i thought it would be more pertinent to have this discussion on this thread.

Can you tell me what problems you had with the hand pump units? Was it the topsider and if so what was the issue? I looked into the mityvac but seems too expensive and bulky so i went with the topsider. I've researched on youtube as well as on the web and seems mostly positive reviews.

I already answered your question the other thread where you posted the same question. There have been many threads and posts about oil extractors over the years on this forum.

 

[dougmcp]

I don't mean to dupe posts but i thought it would be more pertinent to have this discussion on this thread.

Can you tell me what problems you had with the hand pump units? Was it the topsider and if so what was the issue? I looked into the mityvac but seems too expensive and bulky so i went with the topsider. I've researched on youtube as well as on the web and seems mostly positive reviews.

You will like the topsider, I used one for years with zero problems until I stepped on it in the bilge of my boat. I switched it out for a 12v powered model made by Jabsco because it was clear so I could see how much oil I removed and it held enough to change the oil on my twin engines. Here's the Jabsco I have now: http://www.marinepartssource.com/ne...P6HKIGw99qWNcq5Owt9UL65lqkQK3pOLw8BoCS93w_wcB

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[Mark_888]

You will like the topsider, I used one for years with zero problems until I stepped on it in the bilge of my boat. I switched it out for a 12v powered model made by Jabsco because it was clear so I could see how much oil I removed and it held enough to change the oil on my twin engines. Here's the Jabsco I have now: http://www.marinepartssource.com/ne...P6HKIGw99qWNcq5Owt9UL65lqkQK3pOLw8BoCS93w_wcB

Since the Jabsco model is powered, I assume it generates its own suction without having to manually pump it?

 

[dougmcp]

Since the Jabsco model is powered, I assume it generates its own suction without having to manually pump it?

Correct, it was handy on the boat and is equally effective on my cars. Just clips to the battery, stick the tube down the dipstick hole, flip the switch and in a couple of minutes it's done.

 

[sidewinder1]

so i used the topsider and it worked great and took about 9 minutes to start hear the gurgling once all the oil was extracted (yes i timed it). That said i spoke to not one but two dealer mechanics and they recommended not to extract the oil from the top but that it needs to be drained from the bottom. The reasoning being that the oil pan is placed back behind the dip stick tube and sucking it out from the dip stick tube will not reach the oil pan thus not remove the sludge build up that remains on the oil pan. You can see the oil pan in this pic and the dip stick tube would be for towards front of the car.

https://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4733&d=1417405177

Does anyone else think this makes sense or are the techs misinformed?

 

[Mark_888]

so i used the topsider and it worked great and took about 9 minutes to start hear the gurgling once all the oil was extracted (yes i timed it). That said i spoke to not one but two dealer mechanics and they recommended not to extract the oil from the top but that it needs to be drained from the bottom. The reasoning being that the oil pan is placed back behind the dip stick tube and sucking it out from the dip stick tube will not reach the oil pan thus not remove the sludge build up that remains on the oil pan. You can see the oil pan in this pic and the dip stick tube would be for towards front of the car.

https://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4733&d=1417405177

Does anyone else think this makes sense or are the techs misinformed?

I personally have tried the Topsider and didn't like it. I now use a Mityvac 7300 PneumatiVac Air-Operated Fluid Evacuator (requires a separate air compressor to provide constant suction), and it works great:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300...1516759789&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=mitycac+7300

I have compared the Mityvac 7300 with using the drain plug, and I get more oil out using the Mityvac because it supplies constant suction. I measure the oil removed, and also the amount of oil that needs to be added to get the dipstick to full. However, I have not tried it on a V6 GDI (2012+), although others seem to have used it without problem. The suction using an air compressor is sufficient to remove minor sludge, but since I use Mobil 1 synthetic, I have never seen anything that looks anything like sludge, even when using the drain plug.

The topsider is basically a hand pump system to start a siphon effect, but it will not suck up liquid as soon as the pressure is gone, as happens when the oil level gets near the bottom of the pan. The Mityvac (with air compressor) works like Shop-Vac Wet-Dry vacuum and will suck up even the smallest amount of liquid from the bottom of the pan. I do move the tube around near the end, to make sure I get all the oil.

One problem with an oil evacuator is that it makes it less likely the owner will visit the dealer for service, so the dealer is not going to like that.

 

[sidewinder1]

good to know vac is removing more oil than the drain plug on the 1g engine... i will have to try and measure it both ways later but will obviously take more than a year to see the results. i have a 15 v6 with 29k and been on dino since previous owner and just put in mobil 1 and will be synthetic from now on. as long as vac method removes more oil than drain i would be good with that.

Just to clarify the topsider... when you pump about 30 times for the initial pumping it creates quite a strong vacuum inside the empty can. While there is siphon going on and it helps but its actually the vacuum that is doing the sucking... thats why you can have the can higher than the oil level and it will still suck. I did pump it 15 more times when most of the oil was in the can so i could suck up the 'puddles' mixed with air.

 

[Mark_888]

Just to clarify the topsider... when you pump about 30 times for the initial pumping it creates quite a strong vacuum inside the empty can. While there is siphon going on and it helps but its actually the vacuum that is doing the sucking... thats why you can have the can higher than the oil level and it will still suck. I did pump it 15 more times when most of the oil was in the can so i could suck up the 'puddles' mixed with air.

Right, but as soon as the bottom of the tube is above the oil level and in air, the suction is quickly lost. I just found that it is much easier to get the oil out with the continuous suction of an air compressor (any size compressor will work, even the smallest ones that cost $25).

As many know, MB, BMW, etc dealers use oil extractors for their oil changes, but obviously their engines are designed to work with those. I know a lot of people who used the MityVac with a 2015 Genesis posted on this forum, and I don't recall any of them complaining about not getting all the oil out.

 

[sidewinder1]

yup...those other brands are designed with top side change in mind...thus i would like to see if someone actually measured it both ways. just need more elbow grease with the topsider but its same concept as the mityvac and also price is another factor

 

[dougmcp]

yup...those other brands are designed with top side change in mind...thus i would like to see if someone actually measured it both ways. just need more elbow grease with the topsider but its same concept as the mityvac and also price is another factor

You can add more suction with the topsider if it runs out or runs too slow.
IMO the little amount of oil left either way is irrelevant as the conditions vary in the oil temp and time to drain, so does the amount removed. The biggest PITA is the fact on mine at least, I still have to remove the lower splash guard to change the filter. Next time I have it off I will cut a piece out the panel and either leave it open, hinge it or use some other fastener.

 

[sidewinder1]

yes i did have to pump more later in order to get all the leftover oil while it was sucking air towards the end. one other issue (if you can call it that) with the topsider is you can't have the oil hot as it will collapse the tube when it gets too hot so oil has to be warm. i guess there are lot worse things that will mess up an engine and changing oil would not be one of them as long as using the correct oil and changing at regular intervals.

btw, why are you removing the bottom cover to change the filter? I was able to change the filter topside even though it was a pain to undo the cap as i had to use an adjustable wrench that kept slipping. i ordered a 27mm low profile oil fllter socket for next time.

https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-95646-Filter-Socket-Mercedes-Benz/dp/B00KMULLY2

to catch the oil from the filter i used a mini paint tray. then suck out the oil in the tray afterwards of course.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/7-in-Plastic-Tray-RM-007/202097458

 

[Mark_888]

btw, why are you removing the bottom cover to change the filter? I was able to change the filter topside even though it was a pain to undo the cap as i had to use an adjustable wrench that kept slipping. i ordered a 27mm low profile oil fllter socket for next time

I realize that I am not dougmcp to whom your question was addressed, but the 2012-2014 V6 GDI oil filter might not be reachable from the top (reaching down between the radiator and engine) like it is on the 2015+ V6.

The 2009-2011 V6 has the oil filter on top of the engine in the middle, near the firewall, so that changing the oil filter is simple for those model years.