2015 turn signal burnout problem

[dbbalch]

Another reason why I do not want to deal with resisters. Heat and no place to install them without melting the plastic lighting housing. Plus, I can imagine the the resistors will fail due to the heat and fail probably before a set of 2357NA bulbs. So, not a real solution to the bulb burnout problem if the resistors do not last. Hyper-flashing is not an option for me.

All very true. the higher-wattage (5.6W) LEDs turned out to be the solution for me - hyper-flashing does not happen now.

 

[carguy75]

All very true. the higher-wattage (5.6W) LEDs turned out to be the solution for me - hyper-flashing does not happen now.

Sound as like you use true error-free/non-hyper flashing LED bulbs that actually works in our lighting system without issues. Time will tell if the LED bulbs can last being used as DRL. Some LED bulb circuity will fail due to heat production if they are not properly thermally protected for the application. The LED bulbs you use may work fine as signal bulbs, but fail prematurely when used constantly as an DRL.

I had a similar LED bulb in my Cadillac being used as an DRL, the bulb failed in just over a year of use. To the LED bulb manufacturer credit if was listed to be a signal bulb only. I had to replace it with a LED bulb that supposed to be thermally protected to reduce heat damage. However, even the LED bulbs I have now is listed as signal bulbs as well; so time will tell if they hold up pass a year of DRL use.

Hopefully, those LED bulbs you have are designed to go the distant as DRL, but the more watts the LED bulbs produce make the more heat. Heat damages small LED circuitry.

 

[dbbalch]

You might want to try different LED brands to see if the hyper flashing stops. Mine seldom hyper flash, only sometimes sitting at a long light, then a quick off/on and they're back to normal

Advice taken. Did a little more research on the topic of lights and got these. They're one of the few I found that explicitly state DRL as a use case. They work great - no hyper flash at all under any circumstance. I spliced new 1156 sockets onto my harnesses and made them longer, hence the lights below. Stock sockets take 1157 bulbs.

CK Series LED Exterior Light-1156 Amber

 

[surprisinguy]

Thanks for an extra light source... guess when mine finally quit I could try these out, maybe just do a dab of solder on the bottom of some 1157s to bridge them so i dont have to switch out the sockets. To be honest I'm not sure how much of a modification needs to be done to a light anyway... didnt even check when I put mine in to see if the whole light lit up or not!

 

[Suburbazine]

I got some VLEDS V6 Tritons to test. The per-lamp wattage should be around 18w so super bright and no hyper flash (hopefully). Combined with monster heatsinks inside and outside the reflector, they may survive in DRL use.

I should note that the Endpage 1156/7 lamps aren't designed for DRL use- they'll likely fail as fast (at least to 50% loss) as the incandescent due to lack of heat dissipation.

The SIRIUSLed lamps linked above will run as DRL just fine...but they're only 280lm/4w maximum. If they don't hyper flash some miracle has occurred (or they run REALLY hot and won't last either). I'm not going to laugh at their obviously mislabeled "600lm" rating per bulb, when amber 2835 SMDs only make 70lm per watt at best. Or their "1w per chip" illustration. Each 2835 chip is only good for 0.2w.

 

[dbbalch]

I read this thread with great interest because I too have had to change my front turn signal bulbs many times - more than on all the other cars I have ever owned, combined. This is unacceptable to me on any car. It is especially annoying on this car given all the effort required to change the passenger side bulb. I tried installing LED bulbs as a quick fix, but they didn't work. That set me on a mission to understand why and the findings are interesting, so I wanted to share.

The signal lamps in the "Type B" assemblies of the 2015 Genesis (attached) double as turn signal lights and daytime lights (DRLs), but they are not dual-function like a brake light (turn on, get brighter). They are single-function lights (turn on). If you activate a turn signal when the DRLs are on, the light will pulse on and off, not on, then brighter like a brake light. This is where it gets weird.

Instead of using a standard single function two-wire 1156 socket, my Genesis has modified two-wire 1157 sockets. So, only one of the two contacts and filaments in the 1157/2357 bulb is ever used. If this light was only being used as a turn signal, nobody would care. But the much higher demand of the DRL role is cooking through the limited lifespan of these bulbs, which has opened the door to using LEDs. And because they are using only one contact in a dual-contact socket, 1157/2357 LEDs may not always work.

To my knowledge, the two-wire 1157-style sockets in these headlight assemblies are a Hyundai-only part. I have no idea why Hyundai chose to modify a dual-function component to accommodate a single-function electrical requirement.

I am replacing my factory sockets with standard two-wire 1156 sockets that accommodate single-contact/single-filament bulbs. My hope is that the corresponding 1156 LED (https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ZEVO-White-Contains-Bulbs/dp/B01A77QQTE/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1548694505&sr=8-14&keywords=1156+led&th=1) will work without issue; they only pull 1.5W compared to the 21W of the 1156 incandescent and are much more appropriate for the always-on load of a DRL.

I'll post an update with the results.

UPDATE:

The replacement 1156 sockets work just fine, and the longer lead wires allow me to pull the passenger-side socket clear of the air cleaner box if I ever need to change the bulb. I settled on these bulbs, which have functioned flawlessly for well over a month. That is, they do not hyper-flash and they appear to have the durability to be used as DRLs.

If I ever go back to the stock 1157-style stock sockets, I would go with the 1157 version of this bulb.

 

[kibber]

I settled on these bulbs, which have functioned flawlessly for well over a month. That is, they do not hyper-flash and they appear to have the durability to be used as DRLs.

A potential downside seems to be that now you may have blindingly bright turn signals at night. 1200lm is seriously bright!

 

[Suburbazine]

A potential downside seems to be that now you may have blindingly bright turn signals at night. 1200lm is seriously bright!

Yeah, it would be if that was a real number.

2835 SMD Amber tops out around 22lm per chip at full drive. They have 21 of them on a fixture. 462lm if you are assuming 0% loss (really 30%). Then you have to account for their bring underdriven to manage thermals. I'd be amazed if the final value is more than 250 lumens.

That said, 250lm is still quite a lot of light. Your average incandescent equivalent is around 190lm. You can't really eyeball differences between lights until you're dealing with more than 50% variation anyway.

 

[kibber]

That said, 250lm is still quite a lot of light. Your average incandescent equivalent is around 190lm.

Interesting! Isn't the stock 1157 402lm per spec though?

 

[Suburbazine]

Interesting! Isn't the stock 1157 402lm per spec though?

That's if you're dealing with a white, untinted bulb. The amber filter significantly cuts output.

The same applies to white LEDS, they will almost always have much higher luminosity than their colored equivalents. Many LED lamp sellers will misuse the white specs on their colored chips.

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[kibber]

That's if you're dealing with a white, untinted bulb. The amber filter significantly cuts output.

Word on the interwebs seems to be that it should still be around 300lm for the amber incandescent.

The same applies to white LEDS, they will almost always have much higher luminosity than their colored equivalents. Many LED lamp sellers will misuse the white specs on their colored chips.

Yeah, I ran into that problem with SuperBrightLEDs, although in their case the low lumens (90lm for the amber version as opposed to 420lm for the white one) were listed on the spec page, I just didn't get to the fine print.

 

[dbbalch]

A potential downside seems to be that now you may have blindingly bright turn signals at night. 1200lm is seriously bright!

The LEDs are somewhat brighter, but my primary motivation is greater longevity. Time will tell...

 

[Work4You]

The LEDs are somewhat brighter, but my primary motivation is greater longevity. Time will tell...

I am interested in making the modification. Can you let us know where you got the 1156 sockets from, and if there are any mods that need doing for them to fit in the housing?

Thanks,

 

[Smobien]

I am interested in making the modification. Can you let us know where you got the 1156 sockets from, and if there are any mods that need doing for them to fit in the housing?

Thanks,

Read this thread.

2015 Genesis Tech Package - Front turn signal bulb blown - LED Replacement?

here are the pilot leds that lost the chip on each one. one of them couldn't even find it and prob went into the crevice somewhere in the housing. they both lit up but hyperflashed and one of them i could actually hear rattling inside. one more thing to note is that on the driver side the led...

genesisowners.com

 

[Ultimate 3.8]

There is another thread here somewhere, where the issue of the amber DRL/turn signal bulb burning out is an issue. Seems some folks have been chasing this problem, replacing the bulb multiple times. Just wanted to let you all know, it happened to me last week. I called the dealer, and they said it was a known issue. There is apparently something wrong with the wiring harness, which causes a short & the bulb burns out. They replaced the harness & bulb under warranty. I did ask if they could be pro-active and go ahead and replace the harness on the side that had not burned out. Was told, "no", the bulb would have to have burned out. But if it does, bring it back for the free fix. Sooooo, just FYI, if you're one of the folks having this happen, the next time it does, it's covered ( provided you're still under warranty ).

Thank you, this is good to know. I just replaced my turn signal bulbs in November because the driver's side went out. Now it's gone out again. I'll have the dealer replace it when I take it in for service.

 

[batmanmiami1]

Had the same issue. I was told if the lamps had burned out more then once the harness would be replaced by the company. They gave me a loner for the day (around January I believe), replaced both harness' haven't had any issues since.

 

[bufub]

I just finished installing the VLED Triton V6 amber LEDs. Super impressed with the build quality, this is aircraft grade material! No cutting or splicing required. All connections were threaded, with O-ring gaskets. I was originally turned off by the amber DRLs and planned on using switchbacks if they ever started working right. I've become more and more enamored with the amber DRLs as a more unique look on the road. I ordered the V6 ambers and the right hand side reverse polarity cable. VLED tech support said hyperflash would not be a problem but I ordered the resistor kits (just in case).

Installation was quick and easy once you expose the lamp access hatches. I found my lamp sockets were showing evidence of burn. The Genesis socket design is shoddy. The negative contact on the side of the shell is just a thin strip less than a 1/16" wide instead of a full curved surface. It's half the size of the positive contact and also tends to bottom out in its recess so contact is compromised, especially if corrosion is present. I used 400 grit emery paper to clean both contacts and used a small dental pick to carefully pry the side contact out to about a 30 degree angle. I also slid a small sliver of electrical tape behind the contact to keep it from bottoming out again. The ingenious socket adapter mirrors the base of incandescent bulb and connects to the LED with a 4" dongle. The kit includes precut shrink wrap sized to seal the whole socket/socket adapter into a tidy package that slips back inside the lamp housing.

The whole install should take 10 minutes on a side once you expose the lamp access hatches, including cleans the old socket contacts. Tech support was right and I didn't need the resistor packs. I returned for credit because I foresee buying more of their product line.

 

[eangell]

There is another thread here somewhere, where the issue of the amber DRL/turn signal bulb burning out is an issue. Seems some folks have been chasing this problem, replacing the bulb multiple times. Just wanted to let you all know, it happened to me last week. I called the dealer, and they said it was a known issue. There is apparently something wrong with the wiring harness, which causes a short & the bulb burns out. They replaced the harness & bulb under warranty. I did ask if they could be pro-active and go ahead and replace the harness on the side that had not burned out. Was told, "no", the bulb would have to have burned out. But if it does, bring it back for the free fix. Sooooo, just FYI, if you're one of the folks having this happen, the next time it does, it's covered ( provided you're still under warranty ).

I'm not replacing my 5th bulb. The local dealership in PA said they checked the wire harness with no issues. There is no possible way this is normal. Could you please advise which dealership you worked with so I can try to get this issue covered?

 

[G-290897]

Interesting. Is there anyway you could take a pic of the new bulb socket? Previously a single metal contact was present.

And after three bulb changes my bulb socket no longer will hold the bulb in!

 

[warnock]

I have the same issue but I just leave the auto lights off at this point and turn them on at night when I need them.