I'm at a loss...

[Toddasaurus]

So the threads certainly are damaged on the old turbo, and I'm not having any success with the tap and die set I got. The Hyundai mechanic was right - the exhaust housing is very hard. Also, it even looks like there is some material left behind from the old studs, in addition to broken threads...






If I can get the old stud material out of there, those threads look like they could be useable...

BUT, there is a potential major problem.

When removing the turbo I had to remove the wastegate actuator. The nuts on the actuator's threaded rod seem like they may have to go on in a very specific way (ie threaded down the rod to a specific position). This may not actually be the case, maybe I just tighten down the barrel nut all the way to the bottom, then the bracket and final lock but just goes on after that. But, the problem is that I don't know. I asked the other guy at the Stinger forum about this (along with a couple other questions), but he seems to be ignoring me now.

Nick over at Khartunerz said I can call him for questions about this process, so I will give him a call on Monday and see what he thinks about the wastegate problem. Also, on Monday, I can bring the turbo to a machine shop and see what they think about the threads. If they want to bore out the holes and out in some sort of re-thread kit, I won't do it, as I don't know how long it will last. It may be fine, but it's a risk, and I don't want to cut any corners.

Considering the above, I am leaning towards just buying a whole new turbo. The way I see it is that there are 2 MAJOR benefits to this. First, warranty. If anything happens down the line, I can say that I put in a whole new turbo, and they can't blame any failure on "damaged" hardware. Second, I can solve the wastegate problem by marking the position of the nuts on the wastegate - so I can remove it, out the turbo back on, put on the oil drain bolts, then put the wastegate back on with the nuts in the *exact* same position they were when I got it. This way I don't have to worry so much about the unknown, and possibility of having the car fail later down the road.

Only problem about getting a new turbo is that I have to wait! There are none in stock in the US until something like September 23rd or somewhere around there. Which, let's be honest, if the dealer had my car I would have to wait at least that long anyways.

 

[Husky]

So the threads certainly are damaged on the old turbo, and I'm not having any success with the tap and die set I got. The Hyundai mechanic was right - the exhaust housing is very hard. Also, it even looks like there is some material left behind from the old studs, in addition to broken threads...

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If I can get the old stud material out of there, those threads look like they could be useable...

BUT, there is a potential major problem.

When removing the turbo I had to remove the wastegate actuator. The nuts on the actuator's threaded rod seem like they may have to go on in a very specific way (ie threaded down the rod to a specific position). This may not actually be the case, maybe I just tighten down the barrel nut all the way to the bottom, then the bracket and final lock but just goes on after that. But, the problem is that I don't know. I asked the other guy at the Stinger forum about this (along with a couple other questions), but he seems to be ignoring me now.

Nick over at Khartunerz said I can call him for questions about this process, so I will give him a call on Monday and see what he thinks about the wastegate problem. Also, on Monday, I can bring the turbo to a machine shop and see what they think about the threads. If they want to bore out the holes and out in some sort of re-thread kit, I won't do it, as I don't know how long it will last. It may be fine, but it's a risk, and I don't want to cut any corners.

Considering the above, I am leaning towards just buying a whole new turbo. The way I see it is that there are 2 MAJOR benefits to this. First, warranty. If anything happens down the line, I can say that I put in a whole new turbo, and they can't blame any failure on "damaged" hardware. Second, I can solve the wastegate problem by marking the position of the nuts on the wastegate - so I can remove it, out the turbo back on, put on the oil drain bolts, then put the wastegate back on with the nuts in the *exact* same position they were when I got it. This way I don't have to worry so much about the unknown, and possibility of having the car fail later down the road.

Only problem about getting a new turbo is that I have to wait! There are none in stock in the US until something like September 23rd or somewhere around there. Which, let's be honest, if the dealer had my car I would have to wait at least that long anyways.

Nice pics. So it looks like that material is in all of the threaded holes, correct? How do the studs look? Could that be some sort of sealant/thread lock? It seems odd that they would so have left material behind, no?

 

[Toddasaurus]

Nice pics. So it looks like that material is in all of the threaded holes, correct? How do the studs look? Could that be some sort of sealant/thread lock? It seems odd that they would so have left material behind, no?

Yes, definitely. Also, the studs look a bit shredded. Definitely not a thread lock compound, I don't think any of those would hold up to the heat.

And yes, kinda weird so much material sheered off in there... Most likely due to my shoddy workmanship when I was removing the nuts/studs in the first place.

 

[pulsar]

Chase the threads with a quality tap like Craftsman or similar. Use a cutting fluid, go slow and back the tap out frequently to remove debris. When a tap hits an impass you can usually feel such and stop before you shear the tap. I would chase the threads and see how they clean up before replacing the whole turbo. A machine shop should be able to tell you if a keensert could be installed or not? I guess it’s possible the turbo housing was machined in a soft or annealed condition then heat treated to a very hard Rockwall hardness. If the temper of that flange is close to the same hardness of a tap, you may be hosed unfortunately. Wishing you luck.

 

[FastEddie]

Chase the threads with a quality tap like Craftsman or similar. Use a cutting fluid, go slow and back the tap out frequently to remove debris. When a tap hits an impass you can usually feel such and stop before you shear the tap. I would chase the threads and see how they clean up before replacing the whole turbo. A machine shop should be able to tell you if a keensert could be installed or not? I guess it’s possible the turbo housing was machined in a soft or annealed condition then heat treated to a very hard Rockwall hardness. If the temper of that flange is close to the same hardness of a tap, you may be hosed unfortunately. Wishing you luck.

If not a quality machine shop should be able to it

 

[Toddasaurus]

Chase the threads with a quality tap like Craftsman or similar. Use a cutting fluid, go slow and back the tap out frequently to remove debris. When a tap hits an impass you can usually feel such and stop before you shear the tap. I would chase the threads and see how they clean up before replacing the whole turbo. A machine shop should be able to tell you if a keensert could be installed or not? I guess it’s possible the turbo housing was machined in a soft or annealed condition then heat treated to a very hard Rockwall hardness. If the temper of that flange is close to the same hardness of a tap, you may be hosed unfortunately. Wishing you luck.

Definitely not getting anywhere with my tap. There is no give whatsoever, it just stops, and I'm trying not to force it. When I spoke to the Hyundai mechanic he said he experienced the exact same thing, and he said he was using a Snap-On tap. I'm really thinking that it's mostly due to that old material in there, if I can just get it out... I'll try with a pick or something, but if it doesn't come out I'll swing by a machine shop and see what they think. If course this all could just be a moot point, as it depends on the (potential) wastegate problem.

 

[NLJ]

How much does a single new turbo cost?

 

[Alfer]

"Considering the above, I am leaning towards just buying a whole new turbo. The way I see it is that there are 2 MAJOR benefits to this. First, warranty. If anything happens down the line, I can say that I put in a whole new turbo, and they can't blame any failure on "damaged" hardware."

Odds are they wouldn't care if you put in a whole new turbo. You didn't do it at an authorized Genesis facility with Genesis certified mechanic and possibly parts.

I still think your warranty at this point is totally voided at this point.

 

[TurtleBoy]

Odds are they wouldn't care if you put in a whole new turbo. You didn't do it at an authorized Genesis facility with Genesis certified mechanic and possibly parts.

I still think your warranty at this point is totally voided at this point.

It is against Federal Law to deny warranty claims based solely on work being done by the owner or an independent mechanic. They could find other reasons of course.

 

[Alfer]

Good to know. But I think there will be other reason found if a claim were to ever come into their shop.

Hopefully it all works out and OP doesn't have any more issues for several years to come.

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[pulsar]

I’m assuming this is metric thread? Some metric taps have both a metric size and metric pitch. I’ve seen say an M8 have multiple thread pitch choices. Since the tap is getting tight so quickly (normally not something most complain about) you sure all the sizing perimeters are good? Would not figure left over bolt threads hanging in the existing thread pitch area would create a problem? I’m with you though that you stopped when the tap got tight. Any of us that have broken a tap and had to use an easy-out, that frustration is a huge bummer to put it nicely.

 

[Terdbath]

Maybe I misunderstand how the turbo is mounted but could you just drill out the threads on the turbo and slide a bolt through it that threads into your exhaust manifold?

 

[OMG70]

Maybe I misunderstand how the turbo is mounted but could you just drill out the threads on the turbo and slide a bolt through it that threads into your exhaust manifold?

I think he's trying to do it the right way, rather than the jerry-rigged way

 

[EdP]

I think he's trying to do it the right way, rather than the jerry-rigged way

As he should. But when it comes to pulling out $4000 to replace it if tapping failed, I'd get out the drill first.

 

[pulsar]

I think he's trying to do it the right way, rather than the jerry-rigged way

Jerry-rigging is really only jerry-rigging if it fails. If it’s works good, I call that some damn good MacGyvering.

 

[Toddasaurus]

The turbo is at the machine shop right now. I explained to them that if they can't clean up the threads, then I don't want any drilling or helicoils. I'd rather buy a new turbo at that point.

@danygenesis found me a really good deal on a new turbo. They're way cheaper online than from my local dealer. I will go that route if the machine shop can't fix the threads.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Maybe I misunderstand how the turbo is mounted but could you just drill out the threads on the turbo and slide a bolt through it that threads into your exhaust manifold?

Unfortunately there is not enough room on the opposite side of the stud hole to do this. But, even if there was, I don't want to ghetto rig it like that. I want things done the right way, since it's a brand new car.

 

[EdP]

@danygenesis found me a really good deal on a new turbo. They're way cheaper online than from my local dealer. I will go that route if the machine shop can't fix the threads.

Sure, they are shipped from Georgia at low tide.

 

[Tonester]

Sure, they are shipped from Georgia at low tide.

LOL - who knew clams and G70 turbos had so much in common!

 

[Toddasaurus]

Update - The machine shop said they have fixed 3 of the 4 threaded holes so far. It looks like what I assumed, there was just extra leftover material from the old studs stuck in there. Hopefully I'll know by later today if they can fix the 4th hole. If I'm lucky I won't even need to buy a new turbo!