First oil change

[Mark_888]

It says - "Some participating retailers include:"

Go to the site explaining the Mobil 1 rebate program scroll down and click on the "Find A Location" button. That will take you to a page where you can enter your Zip Code. That will bring up every location around you, including Walmart, Target, Costco and all the chain auto parts stores.

I saw that also. But I wonder if the "Find A Location" is really integrated with the rebate offer. I would contact Mobil 1 to be sure.

 

[lbyers001@sc.rr.com]

where is the drain pull located for oil change. Luther

 

[5 Timer]

For those of you who do their own oil changes or prefer to buy the oil and provide it to the dealer, Mobil 1 synthetic is currently for sale at Walmart for $22.88, a "rollback price" for the 5qt jug.
Mobil 1 5W-20

And you can get a $12 rebate for each jug through Mobil oil. If you are buying 2 jugs for your thirsty 5.0 engine, just purchase separately and get 2 receipts for the rebate submission. Rebate Info

Rebate submission site: Here

Do the math...

The promotion ends October 31, 2016

Reviving this thread to let guys know that I received $24.00 in rebate checks today. Took about 7 weeks from when I submitted on-line.

Walmart is still selling the Mobil 1 oil for $22.88 and the rebate is still good until Oct. 31st.

FWIW

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

Some people on this forum have mentioned changing their oil at about 1000 miles. The manufacturer recommends 7500, and even my dealer recommended not doing an early first one (although they recommend 5000 interval).

So what is the justification for doing or not doing this early oil change?

Cars are built better than ever today. If we are talking about a personal motor rebuild or disturbing something in the valve train or engine, or having just honed multiple cylinders, or a new Jasper engine, then heck, filling it with mineral oil motor oil, and a ''cheap'' new filter is just fine, but are we expecting to find fine metal and grit in the engine ? probably NOT. So changing the oil and filter at 500 - 2,000 miles will make you feel ''safer''. Unless one is awfully sloppy in rebuild, 8 - 18 micron particles go into the oil filter, lodge in the media never to leave or move again. On subsequent oil changes, new oil you pour in has o microns, dirt or metal left in the engine are likely under 5 microns and will lodge in clean media in the changed filter all over again, never to move further. So apart from the quality of engine, damage and wear only occurs from driving abuse and NOT changing the oil at the recommended intervals during the life of the car.

 

[EdP]

Cars are built better than ever today. If we are talking about a personal motor rebuild or disturbing something in the valve train or engine, or having just honed multiple cylinders, or a new Jasper engine, then heck, filling it with mineral oil motor oil, and a ''cheap'' new filter is just fine, but are we expecting to find fine metal and grit in the engine ? probably NOT. So changing the oil and filter at 500 - 2,000 miles will make you feel ''safer''. Unless one is awfully sloppy in rebuild, 8 - 18 micron particles go into the oil filter, lodge in the media never to leave or move again. On subsequent oil changes, new oil you pour in has o microns, dirt or metal left in the engine are likely under 5 microns and will lodge in clean media in the changed filter all over again, never to move further. So apart from the quality of engine, damage and wear only occurs from driving abuse and NOT changing the oil at the recommended intervals during the life of the car.

What the heck are you doing? We learned when to change the oil 60 years ago and now you want to change things? Using actual FACTS to alter traditions is just plain un-American. It's been down hill ever since they took away the choke knob and sandblasting the plugs at 5000 miles. .

 

[TinsleyC]

You mean I can't pour a gallon of kerosene into my empty oil pan and run it for 60 seconds to clean it out real good?

 

[EdP]

You mean I can't pour a gallon of kerosene into my empty oil pan and run it for 60 seconds to clean it out real good?

OMG, forgot about that one. With the sludge in some of the old engines it probably did work.

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

What the heck are you doing? We learned when to change the oil 60 years ago and now you want to change things? Using actual FACTS to alter traditions is just plain un-American. It's been down hill ever since they took away the choke knob and sandblasting the plugs at 5000 miles. .

So you are telling me my spark plug cleaner is obsolete?

 

[EdP]

So you are telling me my spark plug cleaner is obsolete?

Of course not, you can use it to clean the stoppers for wine bottles.

 

[TinsleyC]

But we all know this is the fastest way to pick up a couple horsepower... just flip that air filter lid over - and love the sound!

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[Markymark]

You mean I can't pour a gallon of kerosene into my empty oil pan and run it for 60 seconds to clean it out real good?

This was a thing? For real?
Omg.

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

This was a thing? For real?
Omg.

Believe it or not!

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

You mean I can't pour a gallon of kerosene into my empty oil pan and run it for 60 seconds to clean it out real good?

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I am assuming you are kidding me but I will tell you a true story. I am working in an automatic transmission shop in Montreal Canada years ago in the 80's. The owner buys a used car for $150.00 Canadian that has an engine filled with sludge. He tells me to drain the oil pan, drain the oil filter, and put in five quarts of automatic transmission fluid, start it up and let it idle for 15 minutes in park. I thought he was nuts. I thought for sure the engine would seize up or be damaged. It just idled for 15 minutes. (Remember, no load on the main bearings, the car wasn't being driven). So I drain the automatic fluid again, and huge chunks of crap come out the drain hole, and I drain the oil filter simply letting all the transmission fluid drain out. The owner tells me to do it a second time with fresh automatic transmission fluid. I did what he told me to do. Same story, more occasional smaller chunks of crap come out. Then he gives me a new oil filter and five fresh quarts of oil. With ALL of the dirty transmission fluid out of it, I prefill the oil filter, and put in five new quarts of oil, test ran and test drove it and the owner drove it for a loooong time. silly me

 

[TinsleyC]

Great story, I believe it - and it would probably work today... but not on my car!

 

[Jkon]

They don't make em like they used too do they???? Kudos to modern manufacturing/technology

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

I think they are lying. I know several dealers who provide a 20 year engine warranty if you do all the maintenance at their dealership. It is an original owner only warranty.

It is basically just a game of numbers, because they will end up charging you way more than it should cost for all the maintenance (not just oil changes) and would pay for the extra warranty. Plus, few people who buy a new car keep it past 10 years (the warranty provided by Hyundai).

BTW, $4K will not pay for a new engine. That will cost you at least $12K with labor. Unlike the "old days" most dealers cannot do a compete engine rebuild.

Hyundai does not authorize that any additives be added to the crankcase. They do recommend that fuel injector cleaner be used in the gas, and they sell Hyundai branded fuel injector cleaner at the parts department. It is the same thing as Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner with Techron.

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Think about that. If oil and filter and air filter changes are all done religiously at the dealership with the best products he knows of, what will be the failure rate ? Only the people who want to drag race ! Only the people driving with leaking radiators !

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

If you go 10k miles, would you void the manufacturers warranty that calls for an oil change every 7,500 miles or sooner in adverse driving conditions?

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Based on what you have just said, if I ran the dealership, YES, I would VOID your engine warranty.
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HOWEVER, I have older used cars that have given me LOTS of value. One is a 1996 Toyota Tacoma pickup with the fancy 3.4 6 cyl double overhead camshaft engine. It has roughly 278,000 miles on the original engine. I do one year synthetic oil changes with Wal-Mart synthetic. (Bottled by Warren, one of the largest oil companies in the US) If I hit 5,000 miles, I change the filter with any cheap or high mileage oil filter, pre filled (or half filled since mine mounts at 90 degrees. I top off the oil level with the same brand new oil I put in at the last oil change. Pickup runs great, nothing bad ever happens. At around one year, plus or minus 10% I drive the car until it is hot and then change everything. Been driving this pickup this way for five years. Nothing bad happens.

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

Wow I just went to the dealership to buy some oil filters and I just can't believe how small the filters are lol. How can this filter 5+ qts for 7500 miles....send so small but maybe every other car has just over sized it?

Either way I was just shocked at how small it was...and I hope it is the right size cause it sucks to be in the middle of an oil change and have the wrong filter

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My career has been in commercial hvac. In commercial, we tend to use PLEATED air filters. A pleated filter is folded into a ''V'' formulation: up and down at an angle. It has 40% , more surface area than a cheap air filter. It results in a filtration area 60% LARGER than flat surface. The size of an oil filter can WILL TOTALLY MISLEAD YOU. Toyota's filter's are pretty small. What is their engine failure rate ? low ! So you misunderstand the issue. Also some engineers believe that the older 1930's design FUNCTIONS better than spin on, or maybe they wanted to force the do it your selfers back to the dealership because it is really easy to screw up the re installation of the new sealing ring.