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3.3T Genesis G70 Oil and Filter change (how-to)

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^ loved my G37S, and G35 before it. both 6MT sedans, so very rare. RWD/LSD/6MT, and a big NA V6. great combo, bulletproof, and very easy to maintain. seems quite old school by today's standards.
Oooh, 6MT? Damn. My G35 was auto but still real fun. I think the VQ is a better sounding engine; i just had Injen intakes on mine and it was awesome. Never changed my own oil though.
 
Just a heads-up guys.....As I noted in my earlier post, I did the first oil change on my 2022 3.3T at around 2000 miles. I had ordered the oil and filter from Amazon. The filter that I ordered was the Wix WL10237. When I pulled the oem filter out, it clearly did not look the same as the Wix filter but I went ahead and used the Wix because the Wix website said it fit and I was at the point of no return of the oil change.

What bothered me, and has bothered me for about 3K miles is the hard raised edge on both ends of the Wix compared to the oem which doesn't have them. The oem filter that came out looked more like the one on the right in the 3rd picture below. That PG filter however does not show an exact fit to the 2022 - it shows '21 and earlier models.

To further confuse matters, the oem part number for the 2022 3.3T is 26320 3LTA0 and the oem part number for the pre 2022 is 26220 3LTA0.

So, I have put about 3K hard riding on my G70 since that oil change and I am about ready to do another oil change and I want to make sure I use the correct filter this time. I went to my local Genesis dealer yesterday and picked up a new oil filter. It was only $17.62 plus tax and it included the o-ring and crush washer. See pics below.

I don't know about you guys but it doesn't take a mechanical engineer ( I am one) to notice that there is a visible physical difference between the WIX 10237 and the oem filter. Now we can argue that it doesn't make any difference but how does anyone really know? Does Wix know better than Genesis on how to design an oil filter for their engine? To me, it is not worth it to save $5-7 on an oil filter that may potentially damage my precious high performance, high tech engine.

Yes, the majority of Genesis owners probably take their cars to a Jiffy Lube or wherever at least half the time over the life of their car and have no idea what is being used, but it could be an issue down the line and something to pay attention to with used cars and engine problems. Not sure what Wix is thinking but it could be a legal issue too.

I ordered both a Wix and the PG filter for measuring/comparing to the oem and will post that when I get them from Amazon.


(Note: 3rd picture is from post above by forum member Terdbath)
 

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The WIX filter your using is the same I use in my 2020 G70 3.3. Best I remember it matched pretty much identical to my OEM filter (it’s been several years so I could be wrong) and the WIX was even made in Korea too which surprised me. It’s doubtful Hyundai makes their own oil filters and not sure how many filter makers there are in South Korea so had thought at the time what are the odds WIX comes form the same company Hyundai uses? If my OEM had looked way different I probably would have questioned something too, or at least did a careful dry fit into the filter housing to be sure it seemed to fit OK. Other folks here are using WIX too with no issues. WIX is a reputable filter outfit so hopefully they know what their doing with the design.
 
I honestly don't think it's worth not only having an engine issue, but getting a warranty claim denied for not using the right filter. So I strictly use OEM filters, especially during the powertrain warranty. But they're so close in price nowadays, I wouldn't even consider an aftermarket one. But that's just me :). And yes, I wouldn't use that Wix one, since hard plastic might allow oil getting bypassed.
 
There's a rubber seal at both ends of the filter, as shown in the picture. Obviously use what you like, but WIX is a reputable brand, they aren't going to sell a crappy filter. I know a number of mechanics that will only use WIX filters.
 
I see no compelling reason to not use oem. I've been paying around $8 for oem filters at the local kia dealer.
 
Good price.
 
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I've had no less than 5 of Hyundai/Kia/Genesis 3.3 and 3.8 V6, dating back to the mid 2000s - all with the the same style cartridge oil filters. To say they keep changing part number over the years would be an understatement. In fact, I still have a few unused lying around from cars I sold/traded.

The differences have all been minor. A bit longer here, a bit different end cap there. Realistically, they probably could have standardized on any of the variants and been just fine. Needless to say, this confused the crap out of the aftermarketeers. I've been thru the same scenario where a generic doesn't appear compatible... more than once. The result was, while I have no qualm about using aftermarket, it is easier just to buy OEM just to avoid incompatibility surprises, especially when they don't cost that much more.

Dunno if this is exactly Genesis's intent, but the effect is the same.
 
As far as the oil pan is concerned, I think it is an AWD vs RWD thing like you said. It's weird though... You'd think Genesis would use the exact same block for both! But for once the AWD actually has something that's easier access than the RWD model. Haha.
 
Those who like OEM items are fine. Plenty of filter test on the net demonstrating OEM is not always better though when it comes to micron filtering, flow rates and filter surface area. OEM items are generally designed to make it through the warranty period. Also, OEMs do not manufacture their own filters or oils. The big boys do. I’m of the opinion the large reputable filter companies spend more R&D monies testing than an OEM will who simply provides specifications to one of the big boy companies (lowest bidder) to make what is ordered. That manufacturer may change occasionally when the supply chain of the auto company re-bids the contract to attempt to save a quarter. Being in the aircraft industry many years I’ve seen how supply chains work and re-bid items to save a buck.
 
Am I understanding correctly that with the 3.3 AWD, that plastic panel does not have to removed to drain the oil?
Mine does.
 
Mine does.
Thanks. Confused as one reply seemed to indicate that oil drain plug on the 3.3 awd is easier to access than on the rwd.
 
I use the Wix. Seems to be a superior filter to the OEM.
 
Thanks. Confused as one reply seemed to indicate that oil drain plug on the 3.3 awd is easier to access than on the rwd.
The difference is the space between the drain plug and the cross member. The RWD splashes off the rear cross member when removing the drain plug where the AWD drains freely without hitting the crossmember.
 
The difference is the space between the drain plug and the cross member. The RWD splashes off the rear cross member when removing the drain plug where the AWD drains freely without hitting the crossmember.
Got it. Thx. Makes sense.
 
Does that mean the RWD is more rigid, due to AWDs not having that cross member? Just curious. Thx.
 
I think the cross member is there but the oil filter housing is in a slightly different location. Could be wrong. The splash on the cross members we get, if expected is not a big deal. My oil drain pan still catches everything just fine and the wipe down of the cross member is minimal.
 
Today, I did oil change for my 3.3 using rhino ramps. I warmed up car to operating temp and removed filter cap -> Then placed new filter(WIX) -> Remove drain plug and let it drain for like 20 min~30 min. I only got 6.75 quart(dirty oil) and poured about 6.5 quart in the end after bringing car down flat ground level. This was my second time DIY oil change and realized i'm not getting full 7.3 quartz of engine oil.
For those who use ramps(front tires only), do you get full 7.3 quarts when you drain? pour 7.3 quarts exact amount?

I bought my g70 3.3 used around 30k and I've been doing oil change every 4000 miles.
After adding 6.5 quarts of new oil, I warmed up car again to operating temp, turned it off, waited 5 minutes, dipsticks shows as attachment.
Should I add more oil to full line?
before I purchased car, last oil was changed according to Carfax: 30500 miles
first oil change: drained 7.11 qt added 6.8 qt @34000 miles
second oil change: drained 6.75qt added 6.5 qt @ 38000 miles
Probably I thought at my oil change .5 quart difference should be ok but at second oil change i realized 0.8 quarts sounds big gap so wanted to ask others in the forum on this..
I just drove about 20 miles after changing oil, I feel like its more smoother and accelerates faster and car feels lighter. There is no signs of engine lights or anything negative that I can tell so far.
after listing how much oil I added in my first oil change makes me realize I didn't add full 7.3 quarts so I only got 6.75 quartz.
However I will just post this..
 

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I always top off to the full mark, but where you have it now is perfectly fine. And it's always going to be a bit different with each oil change, so don't worry about it. I never bother measuring how much it gets out; just pour enough to get it to the top mark, and you're done. With the drain plug behind the oil pan, putting the front of the car on ramps is perfect. I also let oil drain for at least 1/2-hr, while I do other crap. And always change the drain plug for a magnetic one (I use GoldPlug myself), which is better than not having one :). The drain plug threads are 14mm x 1.5, by the way.
 
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