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Adding bass to your 17 speaker Lexicon with new amplifier

I have read this many times over in preparation of doing this myself but I haven't noticed any mention of what to do here. The parts listed show the area circled in yellow but idk what to do or what part I need to do the area circled in purple. Is that an additional part needed? While I'm asking this, would you happen to have a picture of how you wired the fuse in? Sorry I have never worked on stuff like this. Anything helps.
 
Hey. I don't know what you are referring to. I don't have anything circled in yellow or purple. Send me a picture of the part where you are stuck at
 
I know that this is an old thread, but I just finished performing this modification on my 2016 Genesis Ultimate 3.8. A giant shout out to kocyk123 for getting it all started. Just a couple quick notes, at least in my car, the pink wire on the white plug next to the larger gauge red wire, is indeed the ACC power on that I used for the Kicker 400 watt amp (exact same model as in the original post) remote-on signal. I did notice in the wiring diagram, that the gray and black wire is actually the negative going to the sub, and the blue and orange is the positive going to the sub. That's how I hooked mine up so that it would match polarity with the other speakers. I am not an audiophile by any stretch, but I think the polarity is matched because otherwise it would destructively interfere with the bass coming from the other speakers and make the main subwoofer sound more directional and muddy, being 180 degrees out of phase. My hookup blends in very nicely. Again, hats off to kocyk123, because just as he said, you want to turn the gain and the Boost way down, (also I crossed mine over at about 100 to 120 hertz, estimated), and use the base control on my head unit at about +5 or +6. This seems to be where I find the richest and most appropriate balance. Such a Night and Day difference! Had a great deal of fun doing it, but I would absolutely recommend to do as others have, and use a soldering iron for all of your connections, and then tape them up. I did mount my amp close to the battery with an inline fuse so that it had the minimum amount of run. This required the speaker wires to be a little bit longer but those aren't carrying nearly as many amps. I did not want to drill holes into my trunk, so I actually used zip ties and two-sided tape to hold it in place and so far it is not moving. We'll have to see how it does over the next few weeks and months. But the sound system now is living up to its full potential, and I just can't believe how different it sounds. Thanks to everyone who have added to this thread. It made the work so much easier. Oh, finally I will mention that I used probably 25 tie wraps or zip ties to keep my wires running along the existing conduits. It keeps everything out of the way, makes it look clean although everything is covered, and will keep the wires from rattling around. You could probably get by with 10 zip ties, but I have a grocery bag full of them from Amazon so I didn't scrimp.
 
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I just purchased a 2015 3.8 Htrac (it has the signaure/tech/Ultimate package), I'm going to be doing this for sure, thank you OP!
 
I know that this is an old thread, but I just finished performing this modification on my 2016 Genesis Ultimate 3.8. A giant shout out to kocyk123 for getting it all started. Just a couple quick notes, at least in my car, the pink wire on the white plug next to the larger gauge red wire, is indeed the ACC power on that I used for the Kicker 400 watt amp (exact same model as in the original post) remote-on signal. I did notice in the wiring diagram, that the gray and black wire is actually the negative going to the sub, and the blue and orange is the positive going to the sub. That's how I hooked mine up so that it would match polarity with the other speakers. I am not an audiophile by any stretch, but I think the polarity is matched because otherwise it would destructively interfere with the bass coming from the other speakers and make the main subwoofer sound more directional and muddy, being 180 degrees out of phase. My hookup blends in very nicely. Again, hats off to kocyk123, because just as he said, you want to turn the gain and the Boost way down, (also I crossed mine over at about 100 to 120 hertz, estimated), and use the base control on my head unit at about +5 or +6. This seems to be where I find the richest and most appropriate balance. Such a Night and Day difference! Had a great deal of fun doing it, but I would absolutely recommend to do as others have, and use a soldering iron for all of your connections, and then tape them up. I did mount my amp close to the battery with an inline fuse so that it had the minimum amount of run. This required the speaker wires to be a little bit longer but those aren't carrying nearly as many amps. I did not want to drill holes into my trunk, so I actually used zip ties and two-sided tape to hold it in place and so far it is not moving. We'll have to see how it does over the next few weeks and months. But the sound system now is living up to its full potential, and I just can't believe how different it sounds. Thanks to everyone who have added to this thread. It made the work so much easier. Oh, finally I will mention that I used probably 25 tie wraps or zip ties to keep my wires running along the existing conduits. It keeps everything out of the way, makes it look clean although everything is covered, and will keep the wires from rattling around. You could probably get by with 10 zip ties, but I have a grocery bag full of them from Amazon so I didn't scrimp.

Did you happen to take pictures?
 
I didn't. I wish that I had, though.
Good to hear that you system worked out to your liking. I installed just the amp and was quite surprised how much of a difference it made. I did note in my post that I could definitely tell the bass comes from the rear of the car. I never did try reversing the speaker leads. (Lazy, the polarity is proper)

Did you try both ways? Curious if it made any difference.
 
I did the subwoofer amp mod in Dec. 2018 and the original stock subwoofer is still going strong. One of the first mod I did to my 2015 ultimate G2.
 
Great posts everyone, I decided im going to do this on my 2018 Premium, not sure if there is a pin out here for that, if there is can someone tell me ill continure to look. Pretty happy with the 14 speaker sound using an iPod touch with the rock eq setting but still want a bit more bass control. 18DB592A-878E-400C-84CD-873B82E05FC0_1_105_c.webp
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Great posts everyone, I decided im going to do this on my 2018 Premium, not sure if there is a pin out here for that, if there is can someone tell me ill continure to look. Pretty happy with the 14 speaker sound using an iPod touch with the rock eq setting but still want a bit more bass control. View attachment 56449
Did you ever get it what you tap into ?
 
Did you ever get it what you tap into ?
Yes ill have to see if I can find the pics of the right wires, I think you need a speaker to line box. I couldnt get a good signal using speaker inputs on an amp. Maybe the crossover is pretty low!!
 
Did you ever get it what you tap into ?
Damn I dont have a pic of the right wires, ill have to pull the truck liner open a bit to verify might no get to that today though
 
Hey everybody! Just gut around to redoing my connections. The instructions say to tap into wire 22 for your remote connection. That wire is a constant on, so using that, your aftermarket amp will never shut off; atleast mine didn't. I simply used 21 instead. Hope this helps.
 
Hey everybody! Just gut around to redoing my connections. The instructions say to tap into wire 22 for your remote connection. That wire is a constant on, so using that, your aftermarket amp will never shut off; atleast mine didn't. I simply used 21 instead. Hope this helps.
Any pics ?
 
I'll be doing this mod on my 2015 in a week or 2.
 
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Does anyone know if the 2015 17 speaker Diagram posted on this thread is the same as the one for the 2012 17 speaker Genesis model?
 
I know lol. It said in the manual that 8awg will be good but they only had 6awg in the store and I needed it lol
What is the positive and negative on the subwoofer itself. I got green and black in my 2014 rspec sedan
 
What is the positive and negative on the subwoofer itself. I got green and black in my 2014 rspec sedan
I'm not sure, you could check the wires with a volt meter to figure that out
 
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