Show off your aftermarket wheels thread.🚗

[CurbRash]

those widths and tire sizes will fit, those sizes are a bit thin for 8.5 and 9.5 though. 245 and 265 would be ideal if you can do it.

as for the front, unfortunately not sure if it would fit with no rubbing. maybe the thinner tire would mean the sidewalls stand up less straight than mine do, therefore avoiding the point on the outside of the tire that hits my inner fender liner. but i don't know.

Your posts have been super helpful in my search for new rims. A couple q:
-you have a 3.3 AWD right?
-your front tires rub on the streetside/outside of the tire, correct?
-if I ran the same wheel and tire sizes but with a 35 offset, no rubbing I’d guess? It would protrude 7-8mm past the stock wheel size on the inside, any issues you see there?
-I’m not on coil overs but I am getting the eibach springs installed. (And white line sways, but not so relevant)

I’m hoping to make these work:

store.superspeedwheels.com/en-ca/products/flowform_rf06_mb

in 8.5x19 +35 and 9.5x19 +33 with the same tires as your setup.

Thanks!

 

[Tempcom]

I'm at a loss as to I am hearing people buys new wheels without widening the rims to 9" in the Front and 10 or 10.5" in the rear. Thats like wearing a raincoat in the shower. What is the point?

Here is what I like in wheels. In putting 9's in the front with the current rear tires, Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (255/35ZR19), and 10's in the back with new Pilot Sport 4S 285/30ZR19. These are custom cut to 5x114.3 filament. These fit on the G70 perfectly according to the manufacturer.

The key to keeping your wheels to work best with the G70, you should maintain the 26" diameter of all four stock 19" Sport Prestige black wheels. This is a product of the tires, not the rims, which the Michelins 4S' are.

Curva Concepts CCF-300
curvaconcepts.com/flow-forged/cff300/

Your thoughts?

 

[Husky]

You mean besides adding more weight and cost and slowing you down?

 

[Tempcom]

You mean besides adding more weight and cost and slowing you down?

Well, the stock rims are 40 lbs. and these Curva rims are 29 lbs. Same tires. so that is NOT more weight. 44 lbs. lighter. Slowing me down. Nonsense. That's way better handling with worth it in spades. Faster around the turns! No difference in straight aways.

That is not a helpful contribution to this thread.

 

[kbreese72]

I'm at a loss as to I am hearing people buys new wheels without widening the rims to 9" in the Front and 10 or 10.5" in the rear. Thats like wearing a raincoat in the shower. What is the point?

Here is what I like in wheels. In putting 9's in the front with the current rear tires, Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (255/35ZR19), and 10's in the back with new Pilot Sport 4S 285/30ZR19. These are custom cut to 5x114.3 filament. These fit on the G70 perfectly according to the manufacturer.

The key to keeping your wheels to work best with the G70, you should maintain the 26" diameter of all four stock 19" Sport Prestige black wheels. This is a product of the tires, not the rims, which the Michelins 4S' are.

Curva Concepts CCF-300
curvaconcepts.com/flow-forged/cff300/

Your thoughts?

Those are Forgestar F11 clones, I had them on my 2012 Mustang about 10 years ago. Tried entering in my G70 info to see the wheel weights but it comes up with an error. That website needs some TLC

 

[kbreese72]

You mean besides adding more weight and cost and slowing you down?

Agreed. This car definitely doesn't need any more weight added to it. After several months with my 3.3T AWD, my take is that the car is quick and responsive, especially in sport mode, but not all that fast. Granted, I am used to vehicles with monster top-ends, but I feel this car is not great at highway pulls, or in general at higher speeds. But from a dig or low-mid speeds along with the balance, AWD, handling and low-end turbo boost make it a brilliant and fun DD. Quick, responsive, great handling, comfortable, great amount of luxury...fantastic DD.

 

[Volfy]

And it's the worse kind of weight too... unsprung and adds rotational inertia.

Unlike the rear wheels/tires, the fronts don't need power handling. Even on an AWD, the torque split to front is limited. Rearward weight transfer on accel reduces that even further. Big front tires/wheels are just unnecessary.

As for lateral traction, driver skill trumps wheel sizing. You need to learn trail braking to keep the weight transfer to the front end of the car when diving into a corner. That weight is what gives the front tires mechanical grip. Monster size front wheels/tires won't do you a bit of good if you booger up you corner entry.

Lastly, if you care about proper offset, the G70's suspension limits how wide a front wheel/tire you can stuff in there. Plenty of folks don't and install front wheels with offset that are substantially less than the factory-specified 34mm. This will throw off your scrub radius into positive territory. The car might drive fine in a straight line and in mild cornering but will suffer from mid-corner bump steer, braking instability, and other handling woes.

At the end of the day, it's your car and your $$$. Do what makes you happy.

 

[Tempcom]

And it's the worse kind of weight too... unsprung and adds rotational inertia.

Unlike the rear wheels/tires, the fronts don't need power handling. Even on an AWD, the torque split to front is limited. Rearward weight transfer on accel reduces that even further. Big front tires/wheels are just unnecessary.

As for lateral traction, driver skill trumps wheel sizing. You need to learn trail braking to keep the weight transfer to the front end of the car when diving into a corner. That weight is what gives the front tires mechanical grip. Monster size front wheels/tires won't do you a bit of good if you booger up you corner entry.

Lastly, if you care about proper offset, the G70's suspension limits how wide a front wheel/tire you can stuff in there. Plenty of folks don't and install front wheels with offset that are substantially less than the factory-specified 34mm. This will throw off your scrub radius into positive territory. The car might drive fine in a straight line and in mild cornering but will suffer from mid-corner bump steer, braking instability, and other handling woes.

At the end of the day, it's your car and your $$$. Do what makes you happy.

Since I have a RWD 3.3T, which is 200 lbs lighter than the AWD I'm looking for the added physical grip of the 255's over 225's in the front on a 9" with +30 offset. I have 5mm spacers if necessary. Having 285/30's on 10's in the rear should be a good balance.

Yes, I trail brake when in it. I'm a driver.

Anyone else?

 

[Volfy]

Since I have a RWD 3.3T, which is 200 lbs lighter than the AWD I'm looking for the added physical grip of the 255's over 225's in the front on a 9" with +30 offset. I have 5mm spacers if necessary. Having 285/30's on 10's in the rear should be a good balance.

Yes, I trail brake when in it. I'm a driver.

Anyone else?

How do (would) you have alignment set with your new set of wheels?

 

[orange260z]

I'm at a loss as to I am hearing people buys new wheels without widening the rims to 9" in the Front and 10 or 10.5" in the rear. Thats like wearing a raincoat in the shower. What is the point?

Here is what I like in wheels. In putting 9's in the front with the current rear tires, Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (255/35ZR19), and 10's in the back with new Pilot Sport 4S 285/30ZR19. These are custom cut to 5x114.3 filament. These fit on the G70 perfectly according to the manufacturer.

The key to keeping your wheels to work best with the G70, you should maintain the 26" diameter of all four stock 19" Sport Prestige black wheels. This is a product of the tires, not the rims, which the Michelins 4S' are.

Curva Concepts CCF-300
curvaconcepts.com/flow-forged/cff300/

Your thoughts?

Not everyone wants to have massive wide wheels. I want to change my wheels to (a) change the look (I don't really like the stock black wheels), and (b) to lose weight. If I can, I'd love to keep the factory widths and offsets, but unfortunately most of the wheels I'm interested in only come in 8.5" square or 8.5" front and 9.0" or 9.5" rears.

I understand that the wheels you are buying are lighter than the factory ones, but most flow-formed wheels are lighter than most factory wheels. I correct myself, the black 22-23 19" SP wheels may actually be stupid light for a factory wheel 22-23 19" SP wheel weight derivation. Most of the 19" wheels I'm considering, even in those wider 8.5F/9.5R sizes, are 20-24lbs, and the 18x8.5" Enkeis that Volfy runs are well below 20lbs each.

I'm not tracking the G70, but under aggressive street driving conditions I haven't found the car to lack mechanical grip on the stock Michelin 4 summers. And if I was tracking the car, I'd go to a more track-oriented tire on an 18" wheel.

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[Tempcom]

Not everyone wants to have massive wide wheels. I want to change my wheels to (a) change the look (I don't really like the stock black wheels), and (b) to lose weight. If I can, I'd love to keep the factory widths and offsets, but unfortunately most of the wheels I'm interested in only come in 8.5" square or 8.5" front and 9.0" or 9.5" rears.

I understand that the wheels you are buying are lighter than the factory ones, but most flow-formed wheels are lighter than most factory wheels. I correct myself, the black 22-23 19" SP wheels may actually be stupid light for a factory wheel 22-23 19" SP wheel weight derivation. Most of the 19" wheels I'm considering, even in those wider 8.5F/9.5R sizes, are 20-24lbs, and the 18x8.5" Enkeis that Volfy runs are well below 20lbs each.

I'm not tracking the G70, but under aggressive street driving conditions I haven't found the car to lack mechanical grip on the stock Michelin 4 summers. And if I was tracking the car, I'd go to a more track-oriented tire on an 18" wheel.

Well "mechanical grip" is exactly why I'm doing this. The weight is a bonus but nothing compared to the speed advantage in the corners and braking. I'm putting on 4S 285/30ZR19 on the 10" 19's in the rear. Not 295/30.

 

[Tempcom]

How do (would) you have alignment set with your new set of wheels?

Definitely doing an alignment. That is imperative with new rims.

 

[Tempcom]

So, an update, if anyone cares, my car is down with a fuel pump problem, but I ordered my Curva 19" rims 9"-10" respectively. I'm going to put the existing rear tires (Michelin Pilot Sport 4 255/35ZR19) and put them on the fronts with a 5mm spacer to make the 30mm offset rims to a 35mm offset to clear the Brembo's. Then bought 2 new Pilot Sport 4S's (285/30ZR19) for the rears on the 10" rims and have the 5mm spacers as these rims have a 38mm offset where the stock is 46.7mm.

These cars stock, in my opinion, have a slight "floaty" feel at speed and I feel that this move will eliminate that. The car needs a little more mechanical grip.

I would like to hear how you guys with these size tires and rims on your G70, feel. I will sent pics and results of my upgrade when in happens. Peace!

 

[blnewto]

So, an update, if anyone cares, my car is down with a fuel pump problem, but I ordered my Curva 19" rims 9"-10" respectively. I'm going to put the existing rear tires (Michelin Pilot Sport 4 255/35ZR19) and put them on the fronts with a 5mm spacer to make the 30mm offset rims to a 35mm offset to clear the Brembo's. Then bought 2 new Pilot Sport 4S's (285/30ZR19) for the rears on the 10" rims and have the 5mm spacers as these rims have a 38mm offset where the stock is 46.7mm.

These cars stock, in my opinion, have a slight "floaty" feel at speed and I feel that this move will eliminate that. The car needs a little more mechanical grip.

I would like to hear how you guys with these size tires and rims on your G70, feel. I will sent pics and results of my upgrade when in happens. Peace!

Should be nice setup except adding a 5mm spacer to a +30 offset will make it a net +25 offset, not 35, and scrub radius will be more into the positive territory vs. the stock +34 offset.

 

[Tempcom]

Should be nice setup except adding a 5mm spacer to a +30 offset will make it a net +25 offset, not 35, and scrub radius will be more into the positive territory vs. the stock +34 offset.

That's the plan but I just blew another fuel pump right before I was going to hook it all up.

 

[Volfy]

... adding a 5mm spacer to a +30 offset will make it a net +25 offset, not 35, and scrub radius will be more into the positive territory vs. the stock +34 offset.

Correct.

 

[Volfy]

BTW, the "floaty feel" at hwy speeds is because of the undersprung springs and shocks. Larger wheels/tires are not going to help with that much. In fact, they might exacerbate the problem. A suspension system is essentially an unsprung mass (Mus) attached to the sprung mass (Ms), via a spring (with spring constant ks) and a shock absorber (with damping factor Cs).

Problem with the OEM suspension tuning, is that in order to run 19" tires with very low profiles (very stiff tire spring constant, Kt), and still have a reasonably comfortable ride quality, the factory suspension has rather soft spring rate ks and damping factor Cs. This is where that "floaty feel" comes from.

Stiffing the tire spring constant even more (with even lower profile tires) is NOT going to reduce that floaty feel. Instead, it is just going to transmit more of the road undulation, s, up into the suspension system, and taxing Ks and Cs even more. The result is more uncontrolled suspension articulation, yus, and in turn, more body movement, ys. That is... even more floaty feel.

What's worse, less tire compliance, due to reduced kt, means the tire will be less able to absorb road undulation, s. So, over rougher roads, your larger tires will end up not sticking to the road surface as well as a higher-profile tire. So less mechanical grip.

 

[TheBeginning]

BTW, the "floaty feel" at hwy speeds is because of the undersprung springs and shocks. Larger wheels/tires are not going to help with that much. In fact, they might exacerbate the problem. A suspension system is essentially an unsprung mass (Mus) attached to the sprung mass (Ms), via a spring (with spring constant ks) and a shock absorber (with damping factor Cs).

Problem with the OEM suspension tuning, is that in order to run 19" tires with very low profiles (very stiff tire spring constant, Kt), and still have a reasonably comfortable ride quality, the factory suspension has rather soft spring rate ks and damping factor Cs. This is where that "floaty feel" comes from.

Stiffing the tire spring constant even more (with even lower profile tires) is NOT going to reduce that floaty feel. Instead, it is just going to transmit more of the road undulation, s, up into the suspension system, and taxing Ks and Cs even more. The result is more uncontrolled suspension articulation, yus, and in turn, more body movement, ys. That is... even more floaty feel.

What's worse, less tire compliance, due to reduced kt, means the tire will be less able to absorb road undulation, s. So, over rougher roads, your larger tires will end up not sticking to the road surface as well as a higher-profile tire. So less mechanical grip.

Been binge reading your posts. You’re a great technical writer. Regarding the lack of damper options, have you seen the active suspension controller module? Linked it below. Seems too good to be true.

2018+ G70 Mando ECS-10 Suspension Control Module

Established in 1999, Shark Racing is the No. 1 source of parts and accessories for Korean cars.

sharkracing.com

I think the active suspension is more complicated than most people think. It’s continuously changing damping coefficient depending on conditions. One feature I found interesting was the relative damping of front vs rear depending on speed. At low speeds the rear is stiffer to give a sharpen steering response. At higher speeds the front is stiffer to aid in high speed stability. Similar principle to adding a stiffer sway bar to enhance grip on the opposite axle, albeit a more transient response with the dampers.

 

[Tempcom]

Been binge reading your posts. You’re a great technical writer. Regarding the lack of damper options, have you seen the active suspension controller module? Linked it below. Seems too good to be true.

2018+ G70 Mando ECS-10 Suspension Control Module

Established in 1999, Shark Racing is the No. 1 source of parts and accessories for Korean cars.

sharkracing.com

I think the active suspension is more complicated than most people think. It’s continuously changing damping coefficient depending on conditions. One feature I found interesting was the relative damping of front vs rear depending on speed. At low speeds the rear is stiffer to give a sharpen steering response. At higher speeds the front is stiffer to aid in high speed stability. Similar principle to adding a stiffer sway bar to enhance grip on the opposite axle, albeit a more transient response with the dampers.

Yes I got one, but my car been in the shop going on a month!

 

[Volfy]

Been binge reading your posts. You’re a great technical writer. Regarding the lack of damper options, have you seen the active suspension controller module? Linked it below. Seems too good to be true.

2018+ G70 Mando ECS-10 Suspension Control Module

Established in 1999, Shark Racing is the No. 1 source of parts and accessories for Korean cars.

sharkracing.com

I think the active suspension is more complicated than most people think. It’s continuously changing damping coefficient depending on conditions. One feature I found interesting was the relative damping of front vs rear depending on speed. At low speeds the rear is stiffer to give a sharpen steering response. At higher speeds the front is stiffer to aid in high speed stability. Similar principle to adding a stiffer sway bar to enhance grip on the opposite axle, albeit a more transient response with the dampers.

If my G70 had ECS, I would seriously consider getting that. From what I can gather, it is quite adjustable.

That said, there are a few reasons I would still prefer manually adjustable shocks:

1. The Electronic controller, as sophisticated as it might be, is ultimately preset to do in each "mode" what the engineers deemed best with the factory setup. That means OEM tires, OEM springs, OEM ride height, OEM wheels, etc. The more I deviate from the OEM suspension system, the more "off calibration" my setup would be, the more likely those electronic presets might not work the best. If the factory ECS includes close-loop feedback, then there might be enough latitude for the control algorithm to compensate for dynamic variances. At least up to the range it is able to compensate. AFAIK, this ECS is not capable of close-loop feedback control. That means it would be best to stay close to OEM suspension setup.

2. Shocks, like tires, are a wear item. They do eventually need to be rebuilt or replaced. I would hazard a guess that replacing all ECS front struts and rear shocks would be a rather expensive proposition. Whereas, getting all my coilovers rebuilt will cost me $350-400, and I'm back to top performance.

If this was a lease car, and I'm only gonna be in it for limited amount of time, this might not be too big a concern.

3. Manual adjustable controls allows for iterative fine-tuning of the car's handling. This does require some level of suspension tuning knowhow, so not everyone would be able to take full advantage of it. For running track, this is invaluable. For everyday driving and occasional spirited runs, the ECS + Mando holds a lot of appeal.