Navigation Map and Software Update Discussion Thread

[Looney100]

I use auto regen 3 because it is the same amount of regen at all times and I prefer predictability. If on a long stretch of highway where regen is not needed, I sometimes switch off auto and go to level 2 or 1 for predictable regen levels.

All this manual changing of settings seems awfully contrary to the point of using "Auto."

I am thoroughly confused by your comments. Auto does NOT provide the same level of regen at all times. The point of Auto is that it automatically adjusts the regen based on road and traffic conditions.
If you're on a long stretch of highway where regen isn't needed, why switch the settings at all? Who cares what the setting is if it doesn't get engaged?

 

[azurecardinal]

All this manual changing of settings seems awfully contrary to the point of using "Auto."

I am thoroughly confused by your comments. Auto does NOT provide the same level of regen at all times. The point of Auto is that it automatically adjusts the regen based on road and traffic conditions.
If you're on a long stretch of highway where regen isn't needed, why switch the settings at all? Who cares what the setting is if it doesn't get engaged?

Yeah, the only thing I would change about “Auto” is the braking “goal” distance. Right now, the goal is set to approximately “Distance 4” on cruise control, where it should be set to “Distance 1.”

The current Auto brakes too frequently and too unnecessarily. If the car ahead is speeding up, Auto often chooses to slow down too early and too much. I wish Auto used the entire available distance between the cars to give a much more natural braking feel.

 

[Locutus]

Is it possible to perform a manual update (downloading to a USB drive) with a USB Type A + Plug Adapter? I don't have any USB Type C thumb drives and was hoping to do a practice update to 20231109 (I am currently on 20230523, I am in Canada where the OTA is not yet released). When I plug in the thumb drive it does seem to recognize as a an update.

 

[steveinarizona]

Yeah, the only thing I would change about “Auto” is the braking “goal” distance. Right now, the goal is set to approximately “Distance 4” on cruise control, where it should be set to “Distance 1.”

The current Auto brakes too frequently and too unnecessarily. If the car ahead is speeding up, Auto often chooses to slow down too early and too much. I wish Auto used the entire available distance between the cars to give a much more natural braking feel.

I find that the "braking" on my auto setting is a tad early but very gentle and I don't mind it at all. It is like a gentle reminder that I will probably have to engage my brake in the near future. But I don't one pedal drive and I reset auto each time (if I remember) to the lowest auto setting (it defaults back to the second lowest auto setting).

What auto setting are you using?

 

[hurricane7719]

Is it possible to perform a manual update (downloading to a USB drive) with a USB Type A + Plug Adapter? I don't have any USB Type C thumb drives and was hoping to do a practice update to 20231109 (I am currently on 20230523, I am in Canada where the OTA is not yet released). When I plug in the thumb drive it does seem to recognize as a an update.

Yes, that is exactly how you perform the manual update.

 

[hurricane7719]

I find that the "braking" on my auto setting is a tad early but very gentle and I don't mind it at all. It is like a gentle reminder that I will probably have to engage my brake in the near future. But I don't one pedal drive and I reset auto each time (if I remember) to the lowest auto setting (it defaults back to the second lowest auto setting).

What auto setting are you using?

All the different regen settings do make everything somewhat complicated. I usually leave it in Auto at probably level 2 or 3. I do most of my driving on rural highways ~55 mph. Since I have the habit of coasting, I find higher regen levels to be jerky when I let off. In the city, I do like iPedal.

Unless the car is in Auto 0, the car is the one deciding whether to apply the service brakes vs using regen to brake. The car seems to always apply regen first and it will only apply the service brakes if the required deceleration is more than the regen alone can accomplish. To me, regen settings are more about how much deceleration the car will provide. Auto is supposed to adjust based on road gradient, what the vehicle in front is doing etc. But even if you press the brake pedal manually, the car increases the regen to the battery first, before it will engage the service brakes.

With regards to the Smart Cruise Control, there are also settings in the Setup with how aggressively it will accelerate, reaction time etc.

 

[Locutus]

Yes, that is exactly how you perform the manual update.

I must be missing something...is there something that needs to be done in the car after plugging in the USB with an adapter? I tried it in both USB-C slots in the front and the Update button was never enabled in Setup-General-SW Update Menu.

I did see this on the instructions page and it made me think I needed a USB Type C drive:

 

[Emdisi]

All the different regen settings do make everything somewhat complicated. I usually leave it in Auto at probably level 2 or 3. I do most of my driving on rural highways ~55 mph. Since I have the habit of coasting, I find higher regen levels to be jerky when I let off. In the city, I do like iPedal.

Unless the car is in Auto 0, the car is the one deciding whether to apply the service brakes vs using regen to brake. The car seems to always apply regen first and it will only apply the service brakes if the required deceleration is more than the regen alone can accomplish. To me, regen settings are more about how much deceleration the car will provide. Auto is supposed to adjust based on road gradient, what the vehicle in front is doing etc. But even if you press the brake pedal manually, the car increases the regen to the battery first, before it will engage the service brakes.

With regards to the Smart Cruise Control, there are also settings in the Setup with how aggressively it will accelerate, reaction time etc.

View attachment 60194

If anybody enjoys geeking out about regen braking in the GV60, Cars Jubilee, who owns a 2024 GV60 and owns an IONIQ 5, goes into depth here.

 

[MBGV60]

If anybody enjoys geeking out about regen braking in the GV60, Cars Jubilee, who owns a 2024 GV60 and owns an IONIQ 5, goes into depth here.

This IS a good video. Who knew about the secret Auro regen level? Cars Jubilee also has a great video on driver display options:

 

[Grayson]

All this manual changing of settings seems awfully contrary to the point of using "Auto."

I am thoroughly confused by your comments. Auto does NOT provide the same level of regen at all times. The point of Auto is that it automatically adjusts the regen based on road and traffic conditions.
If you're on a long stretch of highway where regen isn't needed, why switch the settings at all? Who cares what the setting is if it doesn't get engaged?

Auto 3 DOES provide the same level of regen at all times and I drive in this mode 99.9% of the time.

The only reason I may change to level 2 or 1 is that it takes less effort to maintain highway speed. The amount of force needed on the pedal decreases. Sometimes on a long road trip, my foot gets tired on auto level 3

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[berkeleysquirrel]

So my AA shows in the IP in a dark mode but is in the light mode on the center display. My phone and gv60 are in auto mode so not sure to get the IP view of AA to be in day mode. Thoughts?

I have this same problem - posted about it earlier in this thread. Seems like it's an Android Auto thing. The others in here who use Apple Carplay have it matched on both screens. I gave up trying to find what setting it is and just chalked it up to it being a Google decision.

 

[Looney100]

Auto 3 DOES provide the same level of regen at all times and I drive in this mode 99.9% of the time.

The only reason I may change to level 2 or 1 is that it takes less effort to maintain highway speed. The amount of force needed on the pedal decreases. Sometimes on a long road trip, my foot gets tired on auto level 3

I connected my OBD reader and tested things out in Auto 3. The range of deceleration is certainly much tighter than with lower Auto levels, but does still vary. It seemed to me that the deceleration rate was speed-dependent - lower amounts of regen at low speeds. I could not notice much difference based on following distance or posted speed limit (as is obvious in Auto 0) - likely because the base rate of deceleration was so high, that there wasn't much higher to go.

Still a couple questions come to mind, as it seems to me that there are much easier ways to get what it seems you want:

1. If you're wanting constant high rates of regen, why note use "Level 3"?
2. At such high rates of regen, how much are you using the brake pedal? I didn't touch it on my drive, except for scrubbing the last ~10km/h off when I wanted the vehicle at a complete stop for an intersection.
3. Why are you applying the brake so much during long road trips so as to get your foot tired? When driving on the highway, why not just set the adaptive cruise to maintain speed and following distance? You'd almost never need to touch the brake in that case.
4. If you don't want to use the brake pedal at all, why not put it in i-Pedal?

 

[steveinarizona]

Unless the car is in Auto 0, the car is the one deciding whether to apply the service brakes vs using regen to brake. The car seems to always apply regen first and it will only apply the service brakes if the required deceleration is more than the regen alone can accomplish. To me, regen settings are more about how much deceleration the car will provide. Auto is supposed to adjust based on road gradient, what the vehicle in front is doing etc. But even if you press the brake pedal manually, the car increases the regen to the battery first, before it will engage the service brakes.

This is because the Genesis uses a "blended" braking system that as you note, first tries to use the regen before invoking the friction brake. Tesla and Lucid, among others, don't use a blended braking system. As soon as you step on the brake pedal for one of those, you are utilizing the friction brake.

This is at least partly why Tesla drivers prefer one pedal driving.

 

[GenesisJohn]

I have this same problem - posted about it earlier in this thread. Seems like it's an Android Auto thing. The others in here who use Apple Carplay have it matched on both screens. I gave up trying to find what setting it is and just chalked it up to it being a Google decision.

Thanks for the confirmation. I can't figure it out.

 

[gvjim]

With regards to the Smart Cruise Control, there are also settings in the Setup with how aggressively it will accelerate, reaction time etc.

Thanks! I did not know that, I will definitely be checking those settings out.

 

[AlfaBetaSoup]

I must be missing something...is there something that needs to be done in the car after plugging in the USB with an adapter? I tried it in both USB-C slots in the front and the Update button was never enabled in Setup-General-SW Update Menu.

I did see this on the instructions page and it made me think I needed a USB Type C drive:

View attachment 60199

You need a USB device like the one in the picture you posted.
According to what others have said, and what I have read, it needs to be 64GB or larger.
A 3.0/3.1/3.2 USB will download the Update significantly faster than the more common 2.0 USB.
You can get one on Amazon for a fair price...

Amazon.com

 

[Shark60]

OTA update worked perfectly this morning on the drive in to work on a UK 2023 GV60P. Wireless CarPlay seems to be working as expected, after deleting the original bluetooth profile and re-pairing. Not had a chance to check any other UK features.

 

[Locutus]

You need a USB device like the one in the picture you posted.
According to what others have said, and what I have read, it needs to be 64GB or larger.
A 3.0/3.1/3.2 USB will download the Update significantly faster than the more common 2.0 USB.
You can get one on Amazon for a fair price...

Amazon.com

Thanks, I figured out my issue. I was downloading on a computer that has blocked data transfer to USB via security policy, so I was transferring the downloaded directories to my NAS then copying down to another machine that I could copy to USB. That does not work...it seems the Updater software puts some additional files on the USB drive to make it recognizable as an update. I downloaded on a machine where I could put it directly on the drive and it was recognized in the car as an update.

 

[GenesisJohn]

I have this same problem - posted about it earlier in this thread. Seems like it's an Android Auto thing. The others in here who use Apple Carplay have it matched on both screens. I gave up trying to find what setting it is and just chalked it up to it being a Google decision.

I think it is a Genesis issue - since that screen does change color when using native nav, it should change in the AA. I think it might be a missed requirement from the OTA specs.

 

[GenesisJohn]

Since the upgrade my 'star, button has stopped working which is the one I use to get to wired Android auto and now it says I need Genesis connected services. Anyone else have this happen?