2015 Hyundai Genesis 5.0 lower front timing cover replacement

[glennk]

Ok. Thanks for the information.

My thread is not about refrigerant types in general. I just decided to recycle my R-134a, no need for a drawn out lesson in refrigerants used in Europe. Our cars do not even use R-1234yf.

JoeGR mentioned it, hence my post. Also, thanks for the sarcasm. I'll make sure for future reference never to post anything to your questions or comments.

 

[carguy75]

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[carguy75]

@carguy75 , what impact wrench is that you were using in the picture above? I might have to look for one of those.

I used an Astro 1834 nano impact. I think it is rated for 400ft/lbs of nut breaking torque. I use it to get to tight places.

 

[carguy75]

JoeGR mentioned it, hence my post. Also, thanks for the sarcasm. I'll make sure for future reference never to post anything to your questions or comments.

 

[carguy75]

Yeah... I'd never wait until 7,500 mi or whatever to change oil. It might last, but it would still be dirty. Might try the high mileage stuff sometime.

I agree that running oil past 4k miles is not good for an long running engine. Oil is very important for so many parts of modern engines including the VVT cam phasers, timing components, lifters, etc.

Oil change intervals can make a difference in how long an engine runs before needing major internal repair work. I believe in 3k oil changes with conventional oil and up to 5k miles on synthetic oil.

So far it seems that 4k oil changes has done my engine well.

The high mileage oil is supposed to be better with better friction modifiers, cleaning agents, and seal conditioners to slow/prevent leaks. It does seems to slow the one leak that I may have on my upper oil pan. The spot is just a very light seepage that is amber color, which means that no new dark dirty oil is seeping out. The high mileage oil probably sealed the leak before it got worst.

 

[carguy75]

The front timing covers(upper and lower) are just about ready to be removed. I only need to remove the alternator bracket, oil filter/cooler housing, valve covers, and oil dipstick tube. I will also need to drain the engine oil before pulling the oil filter housing and dip stick tube.

The coolant thermostat and its housing seem to be one unit , but it looks like the thermostat can be removed by compressing the spring holding it in the housing. The entire unit cost over $150 dollars, hopefully the thermostat itself can be purchased separately.

The thermostat and housing unit.

The front timing cover nearly ready for removal.

 

[carguy75]

I pulled the alternator bracket. Very easy on this car. The alternator bracket is only held by 5 bolts-(4)14mm and (1)12mm.

I am very impressed with how easy this engine is to work on. It seems that you can take apart this engine only needing a metric socket and wrench set. The only complain I have about this engine so far is the service manual installation information on the oil and coolant sensor; which has nothing to do with the engine itself. This engine is very easy to keep running it seems if you can obtain parts that are not on back order.

The alternator bracket

 

[skipgen]

I pulled the alternator bracket. Very easy on this car. The alternator bracket is only held by 5 bolts-(4)14mm and (1)12mm.

I am very impressed with how easy this engine is to work on. It seems that you can take apart this engine only needing a metric socket and wrench set. The only complain I have about this engine so far is the service manual installation information on the oil and coolant sensor; which as nothign to do with the engine itself. This engine is very easy to keep running it seems if you can obtain parts that are not on back order.

The alternator bracket

Must be why my Indie Shop only charged me ~ $300 bucks for a new BOSCH alternator w/ install....

 

[carguy75]

Must be why my Indie Shop only charged me ~ $300 bucks for a new BOSCH alternator w/ install....

Sounds fair. The Denso alternator cost about $200 and is very easy to replace on our engine.

 

[carguy75]

Today I drained the engine oil and removed the oil cooler/filter housing and dip stick tube. The oil filter filter housing is only held by (5) 12mm nuts. The oil dipstick tube is only held by (1) 10mm nut and an o-ring.

I got confirmation that my new lower front timing cover has been received from the Hyundai warehouse and is being shipped to me. So I am at the final stages of the main repair of this project. It also the most dreaded and messy part of the job to me since it means dealing with RTV. But it has to be done.

The only thing about the 5.0 engine I do not like is that the oil cooler/filter housing only has one metal gasket that separate the oil and coolant. Therefore, if the gasket leaks there is chance that the two fluids could mix. However, the coolant and oil tubes are spaced pretty far apart so it reduces the chance of it happening I suppose if the gasket does leak.

The oil cooler/filter housing removed and dip stick tube removed. The (2)larger holes in the cooler unit is for the oil and the (2) small holes are for the coolant.

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[carguy75]

I removed the valve covers and upper timing covers. Not too difficult. My engine internals and timing system look great. The timing chain is tight with hardly any slack even with the tensioners not being fed oil pressure. The timing chain guides are not broken from what I tell up top.

The only issue I noticed is that my engine look like it may have the start(weeping) of a upper timing cover leak on the driver side. Not bad for a 90k engine made by Hyundai. The Tau engine reminds me of a Toyota V8 at this mileage. It has some minor seepage but no actual oil leaks. I usually do not do perform work like this on engines until after 200k miles, but it is what it is.

The valve covers and upper timing covers removed. Both are held by only 10mm bolts and some RTV. Note: You must remove the (2)VVT solenoids on each upper timing cover before you can remove the covers off the heads. The solenoids are each only held by (1)10mm bolt. You can use a hose puller to pull them out the recessed hole.

The engine looks clean. 4k mile oil changes seem to be working on this engine to keep it looking new on the inside. Timing chain is tight.

 

[carguy75]

The lower timing cover has been removed. It was tricky to get off due to a lip under the crankshaft.

I had to use a block of wood to hammer the top of the cover out until it would not go any farther due to the lip hitting the crankshaft and then I hammer it back a bit and then pried the cover form the bottom with a pry bar until it cleared the crankshaft and then pulled it off by hand. The RTV held on pretty good. The lower timing cover only had several 12mm bolt holding it in the front, (5) 10mm bolts on the bottom, a 12mm bolt in the back next to the coolant pipe in the valley area, and a 10mm coolant pipe support bolt next to the rear 12mm cover bolt.

Next will be the tough part. RTV and replacing all the gaskets.

The lower timing cover removed. The timing chain system looks good without any worn guides or loose chains.

 

[skipgen]

I removed the valve covers and upper timing covers. Not too difficult. My engine internals and timing system look great. The timing chain is tight with hardly any slack even with the tensioners not being fed oil pressure. The timing chain guides are not broken from what I tell up top.

The only issue I noticed is that my engine look like it may have the start(weeping) of a upper timing cover leak on the driver side. Not bad for a 90k engine made by Hyundai. The Tau engine reminds me of a Toyota V8 at this mileage. It has some minor seepage but no actual oil leaks. I usually do not do perform work like this on engines until after 200k miles, but it is what it is.

The valve covers and upper timing covers removed. Both are held by only 10mm bolts and some RTV. Note: You must remove the (2)VVT solenoids on each upper timing cover before you can remove the covers off the heads. The solenoids are each only held by (1)10mm bolt. You can use a hose puller to pull them out the recessed hole.

The engine looks clean. 4k mile oil changes seem to be working on this engine to keep it looking new on the inside. Timing chain is tight.

Good News! I'm encouraged that my engine looks as clean inside.

 

[carguy75]

Good News! I'm encouraged that my engine looks as clean inside.

Thank you.

I am sure your engine is running great and looks good on the inside as well since you change your oil regularly like myself.

 

[carguy75]

I received my new lower timing cover and it got a bit banged up during shipping. It also do not have any additional parts like the dowel alignment studs for the AC compressor or cranks seal installed. I may just send it back and just go with the used cover I still have since they both look the same . The only issue is that the used cover have a chipped lip. The new cover also has some damage on a few of the mounting tabs.

Therefore, i will just get my $500 back and just go with the used cover since it is closer to being ready for install. I only need to put on a new crank seal and clean it up. The new cover requires installing new mounting dowels as well as a new seal. I assumed the new cover would have everything ready to go out the box like most other OEM parts other companies sell.

Hyundai seem to have an issue with the total experience in regards to part supplying, cost, and technical data. The engine is built well true, but the lack of attention to detail by Hyundai in regards to customer service on the 5.0(parts availability,information and cost) is starting to irritate me.

This is how the Hyundai warehouse shipped me a $500 part. It was only protected by a plastic bag and it looks like the box was dragged to the point that the box was torn and the mounting tabs that were protruded are rounded and mushroomed. To make matters worst it is bare boned without any alignment tabs; for $500. Hyundai do not seem to even sell the alignment pins for the AC compressor.

This situation has got me really considering going another direction if it will be the same issue when I need to repair other parts on this car. Yes, the 5.0 engine is easy to repair, but means nothing is the parts are expensive, unattainable, and the service manual information is questionable.

Here is how Hyundai shipped my part. No protection at all.

 

[carguy75]

Man; the online Hyundai dealership is not a good company to deal with it seems in regards to parts and customer service in general. I sent clear detailed pictures of the front timing cover damage and the RMA(product return manager) representative is trying to have me keep the damaged part for a reduced cost. I just want all my money back and the part returned.

The part is not serviceable due to one of the damaged mounts is used to hold the drive belt pulley; which would have the pulley mounted off-center. Not good.

The company knows that the damaged $500 part is non-resalable when I ship it back, therefore they are trying to get some money off the damaged part. It is a no deal for me since I can not use the part. Hopefully, they will learn how to properly pack a part before shipping it out due to this loss.

 

[5.0KDM]

Man; the online Hyundai dealership is not a good company to deal with it seems in regards to parts and customer service in general. I sent clear detailed pictures of the front timing cover damage and the RMA(product return manager) representative is trying to have me keep the damaged part for a reduced cost. I just want all my money back and the part returned.

The part is not serviceable due to one of the damaged mounts is used to hold the drive belt pulley; which would have the pulley mounted off-center. Not good.

The company knows that the damaged $500 part is non-resalable when I ship it back, therefore they are trying to get some money off the damaged part. It is a no deal for me since I can not use the part. Hopefully, they will learn how to properly pack a part before shipping it out due to this loss.

Damm! This project has more drama than a day time soap opera. I'm so sorry man!

 

[carguy75]

Damm! This project has more drama than a day time soap opera. I'm so sorry man!

Tell me about it.

The good news is that the seller has approved my full refund. I am deciding if I will try another local Hyundai dealer online part website to try to get another new timing cover or just go with the used cover I have. I will feel better putting on a new cover.

Life throws some curve balls sometimes. This type of crap happens when you try to fix your own car sometimes. Broken bolts, cracked parts, defective parts, etc. Part of the process.

 

[Charlie1982]

Tell me about it.

The good news is that the seller has approved my full refund. I am deciding if I will try another local Hyundai dealer online part website to try to get another new timing cover or just go with the used cover I have. I will feel better putting on a new cover.

Life throws some curve balls sometimes. This type of crap happens when you try to fix your own car sometimes. Broken bolts, cracked parts, defective parts, etc. Part of the process.

Just wondering, are there any decent dealers close enough to where you live that it would make sense to order one through them and have their people deal with the shipping, etc.? What would the cost differences be?

 

[carguy75]

Just wondering, are there any decent dealers close enough to where you live that it would make sense to order one through them and have their people deal with the shipping, etc.? What would the cost differences be?

The lower front cover cost about $670 or so without the online discount. I have considered just placing an local order and picking it up to avoid receiving another damaged cover in the mail.