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2015 Hyundai Genesis 5.0 lower front timing cover replacement

Frustrating.
Exactly.

To me it is more of a feeling of not being able to complete at task that should have been completed already due to constant setbacks . I am not in any dire need to get my Genesis on the road since I have another car to drive, but I do want to get the repair over with.
 
Exactly.

To me it is more of a feeling of not being able to complete at task that should have been completed already due to constant setbacks . I am not in any dire need to get my Genesis on the road since I have another car to drive, but I do want to get the repair over with.
Yup - irritating when a project goes on for far too long. Especially when it's so close to completion.
 
Yup - irritating when a project goes on for far too long. Especially when it's so close to completion.
True.

I only have to correct the AC line leak with new o-rings(hopefully) and just replace the wipers/cowl trim, fender liners, air-boxes, engine braces/trim, some other little details like coolant top off; then the job will be done.
 
It looks like the OEM o-rings are on backorder. But I found a work around. The online Hyundai parts website does list the o-ring sizes on the larger AC pipes which is the odd sizes not in my HVAC o-ring kit. So I just ordered the specific sizes on Amazon.

The sizes I need are 3/4in, 5/8in, and 5/16in. I ordered the green HNBR nitrile rubber o-rings which are rated to be used with 134a refrigerant. So hopefully they will work.
 
It looks like the OEM o-rings are on backorder. But I found a work around. The online Hyundai parts website does list the o-ring sizes on the larger AC pipes which is the odd sizes not in my HVAC o-ring kit. So I just ordered the specific sizes on Amazon.

The sizes I need are 3/4in, 5/8in, and 5/16in. I ordered the green HNBR nitrile rubber o-rings which are rated to be used with 134a refrigerant. So hopefully they will work.
Good Luck!
 
Good Luck!
Thank you.

After swapping o-rings; the vacuum leak is slower but still there. I was incorrect that I needed the 5/8in and 5/16 in sizes for the expansion valve. Those two sizes were if the expansion valve was removed from the AC piping that goes to the compressor. I suspect that I need the proper o-ring for the expansion valve to seal the leak since I do not have any sizes that fit like the older o-rings I removed.

So it seems that I need the larger sized o-rings that goes into the evaporator core. However, no o-ring is listed for sale on the online parts store, so I assume that the o-rings come with either a new expansion valve or new evaporator core. I purchased a new expansion valve and hope that it will be sent with new o-rings.

Hyundai uses very thick(fat) OEM green o-rings than what most aftermarket companies sell. The aftermarket o-rings will fit the pipping, but they are not thick enough to seal. It seems like the factory spec o-rings are the best way to go to seal this leak up.

Unfortunately, I lost the original expansion valve o-rings. One was lost on removal and the other got tossed out. I did not think it would this hard to replace them.
 
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Thank you.

After swapping o-rings; the vacuum leak is slower but still there. I was incorrect that I needed the 5/8in and 5/16 in sizes for the expansion valve. Those two sizes were if the expansion valve was removed from the AC piping that goes to the compressor. I suspect that I need the proper o-ring for the expansion valve to seal the leak since I do not have any sizes that fit like the older o-rings I removed.

So it seems that I need the larger sized o-rings that goes into the evaporator core. However, no o-ring is listed for sale on the online parts store, so I assume that the o-rings come with either a new expansion valve or new evaporator core. I purchased a new expansion valve and hope that it will be sent with new o-rings.

Hyundai uses very thick(fat) OEM green o-rings than what most aftermarket companies sell. The aftermarket o-rings will fit the pipping, but they are not thick enough to seal. It seems like the factory spec o-rings are the best way to go to seal this leak up.

Unfortunately, I lost the original expansion valve o-rings. One was lost on removal and the other got tossed out. I did not think it would this hard to replace them.
One wouldn't think that it would be that big of a deal and that they would be of a standard type.... Irritating.
 
One wouldn't think that it would be that big of a deal and that they would be of a standard type.... Irritating.
Tell me about it.

This type of problem usually only happens with German makes and some exotic models, because usually Asian and American car models uses very common parts like o-rings that are easy to source locally or online.

The Genesis is a Korean make that is made in Korea so it seems that does have some parts that are not standard in the American part market like these darn o-rings.

Very frustrating.:(
 
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Crap.

My o-ring order has been cancelled by the online Hyundai parts store. However, the expansion valve is being shipped. I hope the expansion valve include the o-rings.

It seems like the only way to get the OEM AC line o-rings is to buy the AC piping that includes them. I am not certain if the large expansion valve o-rings are part of the expansion valve or the evaporator.

Good news is that I found a AC company on Ebay that claims to sell Hyundai AC o-rings kits that fit a 2015 Genesis for about $24 dollars. The kit will arrive next week, hopefully the o-rings will fit.

Update: Do not buy the AC o-ring kit from this Ebay seller. Amazon sells the same kits for $12 with same day shipping. I will be returning the Ebay kit next week if Amazon shipment arrives first tomorrow.
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Dam that sucks but you are coming out with a ton of info from this repair thank you again! This thread is like a day time soap opera for car guys lol!!
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Dam that sucks but you are coming out with a ton of info from this repair thank you again! This thread is like a day time soap opera for car guys lol!!
No crap!!!

This is the longest car repair project I have ever had. The main problem is finding the proper parts for this car and then hopeful getting them.

Now, I am stuck because of some darn AC line o-rings that are a weird size that only the dealer carries, but do not have in stock. This is some BS!!!

Hopefully the 4 Seasons company sells the proper size o-rings for the Genesis as advertised in the 26797 Hyundai kit. If not then I will have to order the AC lines and maybe evaporator core for the o-rings(if the expansion valve do not have the o-rings) just to seal up my AC system. Again, BS.

I hope these posts I make helps another 5.0 owner repair go a little more smoother than mine.:)
 
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I hope that the Four Seasons o-rings are better than a lot of the rest of their stuff.
 
I am ready to just cut my losses on the Genesis.

I tried the 4 seasons o-rings, which does seem more like the OEM o-ring in thickness and the AC lines still do not hold a vacuum. So it may be a bad AC line or I still need the OEM specific o-rings. Either way I will still have to buy new AC lines for about $400. Therefore,I am just going to put the car back together with the AC not working and just trade it in for a newer car. Most likely a used low mileage 2019(or newer) Lexus ES F-sport.

I have tried to put this car back together for about a year. And this repair has been nothing but a nightmare with constant part delays and/or cancellations. This is too much trouble to get a 8 year car running in my opinion. Plus, I do want a newer ride to be honest.

I tried the keep the old car as long as I can plan, but this not working for me. So, I am going back to keeping a main car until about 100k miles and then trade up for a 3 year old used low mileage model to always have a mostly trouble free ride for my long commutes to work.

Now I am relying on a 2015 Lexus RX350 with nearly 190k miles to be my main transportation. Lexus are reliable, but even they can have some issue around 200k miles that leave you stranded like any other car.

This drama will soon be is over one way or another. I like the Genesis ,but it got to go.
 
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Well, good news is that my engine started up and is running fine without any engine codes. No leaks so far that I can tell. Still no AC, but the engine runs fine so a win is a win.

Now I will just put it back together and trade it in.

Engine running with no error codes.:)
53211134373_1d49085072_k.jpg
 
Darn it!! I really really like the Genesis. The styling and the overall ride quality. So I decided to give it another chance since it is running well. Since my AC system has no pressure the AC compressor is not being used because of the pressure switch keeping it from engaging, so no damage will happen to the AC compressor with the engine running even without refrigerant. So I can still work on the AC system and drive the car.

I decided to use better hose connector seals on my AC manifold gauge hoses. The cheap AC gauge kit I have uses the cheap white plastic seals on the hose connectors, which is good enough for topping off and checking refrigerant levels, but does not seal very well for holding deep vacuum. Therefore, I purchased some better quality rubber AC hose seals that are softer and will seal better. If the AC line still do not hold a vacuum then it must be the car AC lines itself, not the gauge hoses.


However, I do hate that the Genesis main issue is a lack of timely part availability even if I can get the AC system sealed up again.
 
I finished topping off the coolant including running coolant through the heater core with the heat on high. The heat still was very warm out of the vents even though the AC system is not charged. The coolant system seems topped off without any air pockets.

Now I have to decide if I want to keep the car or just trade it in for newer model. I will still try to seal up the AC system by using better manifold gauge line seals, but if the system does not hold a vacuum I will just sell the car as is.

The engine heated up to the point of about 2 bars away from the half mark and remained there with the 180F degree thermostat at idle. The good news is that the engine heated up pretty quickly( several minutes of idling) with the new thermostat. My old thermostat used to take much longer (about 10-15 minutes of driving)to warm up the engine since it was always open.

Engine warm up point with the 180F degree thermostat. Stock is 190F.
53211526752_4aba6ccd61_k.jpg


The way I topped off the coolant and bled out the last few remaining air bubbles. I let the engine idle for about an hour with the heat on max to get the air out of the heat core and for the thermostat to open so coolant will flow through the engine as well as the trapped air. The coolant system had only a few pockets of air after the heat was ran and the thermostat opened, so the vacuum fill device worked pretty well.
53212411621_1ded86895a_k.jpg
 
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... Since my AC system has no pressure the AC compressor is not being used because of the pressure switch keeping it from engaging, so no damage will happen to the AC compressor with the engine running even without refrigerant. ...
This can not be true. Your AC has no clutch. The compressor is driven anything the engine is running. There is a pressure valve in the back of the compressor that controls how much it pumps, Yes, that valve is closed right now, but the compressor is still turning and the pistons are still pumping. I assume that the oil in the empty compressor will run out and it will seize, but I don't know how long that will take. Fortunately, they did think about this happening (compressor running on an open system), and there is a mechanical fuse or sorts that will sever the connection between the compressor and the pulley when it does seize.
 
This can not be true. Your AC has no clutch. The compressor is driven anything the engine is running. There is a pressure valve in the back of the compressor that controls how much it pumps, Yes, that valve is closed right now, but the compressor is still turning and the pistons are still pumping. I assume that the oil in the empty compressor will run out and it will seize, but I don't know how long that will take. Fortunately, they did think about this happening (compressor running on an open system), and there is a mechanical fuse or sorts that will sever the connection between the compressor and the pulley when it does seize.
Crap!!!

That was my concern with the varible compressor. I am hoping that it is free spinning without a charge since it does have pressure switch. However, it does have PAG oil so hopefully no damage is being done to it until I can charge up the AC system
 
Crap!!!

That was my concern with the varible compressor. I am hoping that it is free spinning without a charge since it does have pressure switch. However, it does have PAG oil so hopefully no damage is being done to it until I can charge up the AC system

Darn it!! I really really like the Genesis. The styling and the overall ride quality. So I decided to give it another chance since it is running well. Since my AC system has no pressure the AC compressor is not being used because of the pressure switch keeping it from engaging, so no damage will happen to the AC compressor with the engine running even without refrigerant. So I can still work on the AC system and drive the car.

I decided to use better hose connector seals on my AC manifold gauge hoses. The cheap AC gauge kit I have uses the cheap white plastic seals on the hose connectors, which is good enough for topping off and checking refrigerant levels, but does not seal very well for holding deep vacuum. Therefore, I purchased some better quality rubber AC hose seals that are softer and will seal better. If the AC line still do not hold a vacuum then it must be the car AC lines itself, not the gauge hoses.


However, I do hate that the Genesis main issue is a lack of timely part availability even if I can get the AC system sealed up again.
That just sucks - Sidelined by $20 bucks worth of rubber...!

I'd be tempted to say "F@ck it!" too... If you lived in a subtropical hellhole like I do (Houston), no A/C is a deal breaker. I kinda find myself wondering if parts availability is any better with the V6?
 
That just sucks - Sidelined by $20 bucks worth of rubber...!

I'd be tempted to say "F@ck it!" too... If you lived in a subtropical hellhole like I do (Houston), no A/C is a deal breaker. I kinda find myself wondering if parts availability is any better with the V6?
Tell me about it. O-rings, really!!!

However, it could be the AC manifold gauge line o-rings I am using that is the source of the vacuum leak like mention earlier.

I am still debating about trading in the Genesis if I find a used newer car that I like over it. Most other newer(2017+) luxury cars has some issue as well or are just boring to look at and drive compared to the Genesis 5.0.


I sort of like the 2019+ Lexus ES f-sport, but it is hard to find a used low mileage model with the upgraded packages(HUD, high audio system) which make it more of a downgrade compared to my Genesis with the ultimate package.


I like the newer 2017+ Mercedes E450 models, but again the top end packages are rare to find used and the 3.0 turbo engine may have some issues.

So I will probably just keep the Genesis a bit longer and try to sort out the AC issue.

The good news is that my Xtool D8 scan tool does work on the Genesis for module programming, transmission calibrations,key programming, etc. So I can perform some detail repair work like reverse sensor module repair or transmission replacement on the Genesis if need be; if the parts are available.
 
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