Best way to convert to led DRL's for a 2015 Genesis 3.8

[plaintiger]

All I can tell you is that about 110k miles after I did the mod I linked to back in post #13 - and I didn't have to replace a single turn signal bulb and had nice, bright LEDs for DRLs. Of course it only works out that way having the switch position in either parking lights during the day, and headlights at night, rolling it back to parking when turning off the car. Yes - it leaves the brighter/modded LED eyebrows on, as well as the rear parking lights on all the time - but none of those LEDs burnt out over the course of 5+ years, either.

Oh, yeah, we're talking about different mods. I'm referring to 1157/2357 LED directional/DRL bulbs that go in the directional/DRL sockets (and my having given up thereupon, at least for the present).

 

[srobak]

I understand. I am just saying that with the mod I did, and using the light switch in only those 2 positions - the problems encountered with your mod, as well as those experienced by many others with the premature death of the turn signals is not experienced.

 

[plaintiger]

Well, it's now been just over five months since I installed the Sylvania incandescents and they're working great. I think the package says they're not intended for use as DRLs, but so far they shine, no pun intended, as DRLs and directionals in my car. I'll post about it if and when one dies. Unless I die first, lol...

 

[Genesiswonderer]

Well, it's now been just over five months since I installed the Sylvania incandescents and they're working great. I think the package says they're not intended for use as DRLs, but so far they shine, no pun intended, as DRLs and directionals in my car. I'll post about it if and when one dies. Unless I die first, lol...

Well mine have almost been good for a year. However, before last year the bulbs had lasted about 3 years each including DRL usage.

However, may of last year the drive side socket burned out, so I just stopped using the DRLs and now use the parking lights during the day.

 

[Rogozhin75]

The other bulb gave up (for the turn signals) lasted a few months longer-but this is how my setup looks 'on' I just have the DDs on all the time-received a ticket for running them in purple-WA cops are the worst.

 

[Genesiswonderer]

The other bulb gave up (for the turn signals) lasted a few months longer-but this is how my setup looks 'on' I just have the DDs on all the time-received a ticket for running them in purple-WA cops are the worst.

You didn’t get a ticket for your parking lights, right? Just because they were purple?

 

[Rogozhin75]

You didn’t get a ticket for your parking lights, right? Just because they were purple?

Yep a $160 ticket.. Cop was a complete jerk off too (young punk kid with sleeve tats).

 

[Rogozhin75]

This is the RCW he listed:

WA state:

RCW​

Color of clearance lamps, side marker lamps, backup lamps, and reflectors.​

(1) Front clearance lamps and those marker lamps and reflectors mounted on the front or on the side near the front of a vehicle shall display or reflect an amber color.

I figured as long as they weren't blue or red, but no warning just a ticket.

 

[Genesiswonderer]

Yep a $160 ticket.. Cop was a complete jerk off too (young punk kid with sleeve tats).

So it was for the purple lights then?

 

[plaintiger]

The other bulb gave up (for the turn signals) lasted a few months longer-but this is how my setup looks 'on' I just have the DDs on all the time-received a ticket for running them in purple-WA cops are the worst.

Sorry to hear about the ticket, Rogo. But your setup looks great this way!

Do you just flick a switch to change the color of the lights? If so, or for any other reason you can think of, you should contest the ticket.

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[Bryandowen]

So I thought I had this solved when I bought a DRL/blinker LED conversion kit -- two harnesses that have an 1156 socket that plugs in where your incandescent lamp normally goes, runs through a couple of 6 ohm resistors, and has an 1157 socket to put your switchback LED bulbs into. The driver-side one worked fine, but the passenger side didn't until I did some snipping and resoldering (since the polarity is reversed on the passenger side -- doesn't matter for a incandescent bulb since they're not polarized). This arrangement worked for some time, but the LEDs started flaking out, blinking intermittently, and looking sort of "pixelated" -- I think individual surface-mount LEDs were flaking out. I'm not sure if this was heat-related or what.

Anyway, now I'm looking at my blinkers/DRLs again. I ordered the LEDs that were linked in this thread a couple times that have built-in resistors. Unfortunately they don't seem to be working.

Unfortunately I can't find the same LED conversion kit online. All the ones I find are 1156->1156 or 1157->1157. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a few question:

1. Folks are just posting links to these LED replacements and saying they work out of the box. (Unfortunately mine don't.) For those that did: Are they white for DRL and yellow when blinking? Or always one color?

2. If I were to wire up my own resistors, should I wire them in series with the LED lamp or in parallel? I'm seeing conflicting descriptions of what these resistors actually do. If the hyperblinking occurs because LEDs have such low resistance, that should appear to the car as though the lamp is *shorted*, not burned out. (Shorted = close to zero resistance; burned out = close to infinite resistance.) If I wanted to add resistance to compensate, that would imply that the resistors should be wired in series. Wiring the resistor in parallel would *decrease the effective resistance even further*, but that's what these kits appear to do.

3. The 2015 Genesis has an 1156 socket. (i.e., ground is on the side of the socket, and there's a single power pin in the middle.) This works fine for lighting or blinking a single filament. But these switchback LEDs are 1157s, which have ground on the side of the lamp and *two* conductors on the bottom. I don't see how this can work as a direct plug-in replacement for the stock 1156 unless *both* conductors on the 1157 LED contact the same single 1156 conductor in the socket, in which case you wouldn't be able to use the "switchback" feature of the LED; you're only using the amber (or the white) half. Am I understanding this correctly?

It seems like the only way you could get "switchback" functionality to work on the 2015 Genesis is if (a) the car reverses polarity when blinking vs. DRL, and the LED knows that one polarity means amber and the other polarity means white; or (b) the LED someone can distinguish between steady power (DRL) and intermittent (blinker) and illuminates the correct LEDs accordingly. Neither of these seems likely.

Any thoughts from someone who understands how these things work?

 

[Rogozhin75]

Post in thread 'Long term reliability of HTRAC AWD transfer case due to inability to change the transfer case fluid?' Long term reliability of HTRAC AWD transfer case due to inability to change the transfer case fluid?

Sorry to hear about the ticket, Rogo. But your setup looks great this way!

Do you just flick a switch to change the color of the lights? If so, or for any other reason you can think of, you should contest the ticket.

Thanks PT, It's an app on my phone where I can control the LEDs, RGB strobe and flash, and solid colors. I don't use the obviously illegal settings, but run solid amber or solid purple, and I did contest it

 

[Rogozhin75]

So I thought I had this solved when I bought a DRL/blinker LED conversion kit -- two harnesses that have an 1156 socket that plugs in where your incandescent lamp normally goes, runs through a couple of 6 ohm resistors, and has an 1157 socket to put your switchback LED bulbs into. The driver-side one worked fine, but the passenger side didn't until I did some snipping and resoldering (since the polarity is reversed on the passenger side -- doesn't matter for a incandescent bulb since they're not polarized). This arrangement worked for some time, but the LEDs started flaking out, blinking intermittently, and looking sort of "pixelated" -- I think individual surface-mount LEDs were flaking out. I'm not sure if this was heat-related or what.

Anyway, now I'm looking at my blinkers/DRLs again. I ordered the LEDs that were linked in this thread a couple times that have built-in resistors. Unfortunately they don't seem to be working.

Unfortunately I can't find the same LED conversion kit online. All the ones I find are 1156->1156 or 1157->1157. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a few question:

1. Folks are just posting links to these LED replacements and saying they work out of the box. (Unfortunately mine don't.) For those that did: Are they white for DRL and yellow when blinking? Or always one color?

2. If I were to wire up my own resistors, should I wire them in series with the LED lamp or in parallel? I'm seeing conflicting descriptions of what these resistors actually do. If the hyperblinking occurs because LEDs have such low resistance, that should appear to the car as though the lamp is *shorted*, not burned out. (Shorted = close to zero resistance; burned out = close to infinite resistance.) If I wanted to add resistance to compensate, that would imply that the resistors should be wired in series. Wiring the resistor in parallel would *decrease the effective resistance even further*, but that's what these kits appear to do.

3. The 2015 Genesis has an 1156 socket. (i.e., ground is on the side of the socket, and there's a single power pin in the middle.) This works fine for lighting or blinking a single filament. But these switchback LEDs are 1157s, which have ground on the side of the lamp and *two* conductors on the bottom. I don't see how this can work as a direct plug-in replacement for the stock 1156 unless *both* conductors on the 1157 LED contact the same single 1156 conductor in the socket, in which case you wouldn't be able to use the "switchback" feature of the LED; you're only using the amber (or the white) half. Am I understanding this correctly?

It seems like the only way you could get "switchback" functionality to work on the 2015 Genesis is if (a) the car reverses polarity when blinking vs. DRL, and the LED knows that one polarity means amber and the other polarity means white; or (b) the LED someone can distinguish between steady power (DRL) and intermittent (blinker) and illuminates the correct LEDs accordingly. Neither of these seems likely.

Any thoughts from someone who understands how these things work?

The auxbeam ones that are plug and play on my G80 are always yellow....