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DIY rear anti-sway bar upgrade for 2009-2011 Genesis

Would love to know if you have the diameters of the front and rear sway bars for the 2013 Rspec 5.0 sedan. I'd like to order these sway bar bushings and maybe the link bushings as well from Energy Suspension. They don't list our car specifically :(

Believe they are 19mm (hollow).
 
I actually ditched the energy bushings for new swaybars Neotech will cost you around 6x the price. But the handling is much better. The car has trouble though keeping the rear planted while accelerating on sharp turns. The bilsteins/neotech combo is a huge but expensive upgrade. Completely changes the nature of the car ImageUploadedByTapatalk1379286979.033520.webpImageUploadedByTapatalk1379287004.871213.webpImageUploadedByTapatalk1379287035.795970.webp
 
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I actually ditched the energy bushings for new swaybars Neotech will cost you around 6x the price. But the handling is much better. The car has trouble though keeping the rear planted while accelerating on sharp turns. The bilsteins/neotech combo is a huge but expensive upgrade. Completely changes the nature of the car View attachment 2917View attachment 2918View attachment 2919

Are you saying that the Neotechs had trouble keeping the rear planted on turn acceleration? Or the factory R-Spec has trouble doing it? I'm fiercely considering the Neotechs, but keeping my factory spring/shocks for now.
 
I just did the upgrade from to a 2012/2013 rear sway bar and wow does it make a difference! I've only had my 2010 for a few months but I noticed that the front and rear suspension behaved quite differently, especially on rough terrain or around corners.

With the upgraded rear sway bar, the whole car seems much more planted and more like one piece. The difference isn't night and day but it helps considerably... Especially when over rough pavement and/or when accelerating out of a turn. There are no downsides to this upgrade in terms of handling, ride quality, etc. For the $116 total cost (installed it myself with help from a friend), this was a no-brainer upgrade.
 
Yep, that settles it, I'm getting the R-Spec bar.
 
Yep, that settles it, I'm getting the R-Spec bar.
The rear anti-sway stabilizer bar for 2012-2013 Genesis Sedan is the same for all trim levels and engines (Base, Premium, Tech Package, R-Spec). It is an improvement over the ones used for 2009-2011.
 
The rear anti-sway stabilizer bar for 2012-2013 Genesis Sedan is the same for all trim levels and engines (Base, Premium, Tech Package, R-Spec). It is an improvement over the ones used for 2009-2011.

What kind of improvement? There are no free lunches. If you gain something one place, you have to give up something in another place.
 
What kind of improvement? There are no free lunches. If you gain something one place, you have to give up something in another place.
The 2012+ rear stabilizer bar has a larger diameter, but is now hollow. Supposedly, that allows more flexibility in the vertical plane so the left and right wheels can act more independently of each other, while still maintaining horizontal rigidity and good anti-sway characteristics. Seems to be a definite improvement. I have not heard about any disadvantages of the new hollow design, but I am not a suspension engineer.
 
Damn you guys are going to have me spend some $$$ from just reading this post since i havent done anything to my rer except change my brakes & tires, i see why i stayed away from this forum for awhile lol
 
The 2012+ rear stabilizer bar has a larger diameter, but is now hollow. Supposedly, that allows more flexibility in the vertical plane so the left and right wheels can act more independently of each other, while still maintaining horizontal rigidity and good anti-sway characteristics. Seems to be a definite improvement. I have not heard about any disadvantages of the new hollow design, but I am not a suspension engineer.

Sorry, I have to jump in here. If the sway bar allows the wheels to move independently, then it's not a sway bar. The point of the sway bar is to tie the vertical motion of the wheels together.

Okay, check that. The point of the sway bar is to keep the body from rolling. It does this clamping the body to a bar, and forcing that bar to remain parallel to a line going through the axles of the rear wheels. As long as the wheels are on the ground, then the body is forced to remain parallel to the ground (except to the extent that the bar is allowed to twist).

If, in a turn, the outside wheel compresses its spring and rises up into the wheel well, the sway bar rotates upward, raising the inside wheel into its wheel well. When that happens, the body "falls" toward the inside as the wheel returns to the ground.

If the sway bar allowed the wheels to move up and down independently then it's doing nothing. Think of the sway bar as providing some of the benefits of a solid axle, but none of the problems (camber).

A hollow bar is actually far more resistant to twist than a solid bar of the same weight. A lighter hollow bar can still be more effective than a solid one.
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I'm going to order the R Spec struts and shocks tomorrow:) Looking forward to this transformation. Stay tuned
 
Sorry to bring up this old thread.
Yesterday, I attempted to replace the rear sway bar on my 2011 genny with one for 2012+. I failed.

I have read everything on this thread. However, only one member (TimeOut) mentioned about the bracket on the 2012+ bar to be larger. The result of this is that the bracket holes do not align with the mounting holes.

Now, I wonder, how did the rest of you who have upgraded the sway bar manage to mount it on the car without cross threading or stripping the bolts?
 
Sorry to bring up this old thread.
Yesterday, I attempted to replace the rear sway bar on my 2011 genny with one for 2012+. I failed.

I have read everything on this thread. However, only one member (TimeOut) mentioned about the bracket on the 2012+ bar to be larger. The result of this is that the bracket holes do not align with the mounting holes.

Now, I wonder, how did the rest of you who have upgraded the sway bar manage to mount it on the car without cross threading or stripping the bolts?

I honestly used a drill bit and bored the holes open a taste to get it to fit (not saying that was right...but that's what I did).
 
I honestly used a drill bit and bored the holes open a taste to get it to fit (not saying that was right...but that's what I did).

I used your advice and bought a rotary grinding burr to enlarge the hole opening. It worked. And now the sway bar is installed. Thanks
 
I used your advice and bought a rotary grinding burr to enlarge the hole opening. It worked. And now the sway bar is installed. Thanks
Great! Glad it worked
 
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