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Excessive intake valve buildup

jnc2000

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With 35K on the TAU 5.0 I started to notice a difference in how it was responding... Pulled my intake mani off while doing my oil change tonight and noted the following.

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

i-tLDrwzj-XL.jpg


i-pXcgg65-XL.jpg


I'm not to thrilled at this latest discovery... Looks like Hyundai might need to re-look their DI methodology. I'm not sure if anyone else has higher miles on their TAU 5.0, but I'd be interested to see the valves if they do. Valve seats look good, but a cleaning is defiantly in order.
 
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Could you share what are your driving patterns - city/hwy stop and go, short/long trips, etc. and what grade fuel you have been using? Thanks.
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

Well, at 11 months old, and 35K miles I would count that as mostly highway. I rarely drive any city (short trips / stop and go) mileage. Fuel is premium - 93 from 'top tier' stations.

Still average 26-27mpg on the highway (WPA is a bit hilly) with the cruise set at 70-80....
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

You better make sure you put it back exactly like it was from factory. Otherwise you may have voided your engine warranty. I would never take apart car engine while it is in warranty even though I have rebuilt several engines. Let the dealer do their job of providing the free service checks and repairs if needed under warranty.
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

All GDI engines suffer from the same problem with the intake valve build up because the valve never sees any fuel passing through them to clean them.

My son drives a BMW 333 I with the exact same problem. Fuel additives to keep the intake valve clean are useless.

BMW recommends that the valves be blasted with walnut shell blasting material to clean the valves.

I don’t know how that works or how they perform the cleaning. I would check with Hyundai to see what their recommendations are.
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

You better make sure you put it back exactly like it was from factory. Otherwise you may have voided your engine warranty. I would never take apart car engine while it is in warranty even though I have rebuilt several engines. Let the dealer do their job of providing the free service checks and repairs if needed under warranty.

Hogwash - While I respect your opinion, taking off the intake manifold is a 15 minute job. No dealer in the world has the authority to void a warranty - only HMA can do that. Let alone for taking off 10 bolts. Checking your vacuum lines, PCV, TB etc should be part of regular maint....

I plan on walnut blasting myself. It's really easy, and something I have experience with from BMW's N54 motors..... I trust myself, and team of friends much more than I trust a someone from Hyundai who hasn't really worked on the TAU...
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

I plan on walnut blasting myself. It's really easy, and something I have experience with from BMW's N54 motors..... I trust myself, and team of friends much more than I trust a someone from Hyundai who hasn't really worked on the TAU...[/QUOTE]

It would be nice if you could document that procedure and take some pictures as you perform the cleaning of the valves some the rest of us dummies can learn some thing.:D
 
Agreed. Please share how the walnut blasting goes. Do you suppose the 3M intake system cleaner might help? (It's designed to spray into the intake manifold while the engine is running)
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

Hogwash - While I respect your opinion, taking off the intake manifold is a 15 minute job. No dealer in the world has the authority to void a warranty - only HMA can do that. Let alone for taking off 10 bolts. Checking your vacuum lines, PCV, TB etc should be part of regular maint....

I plan on walnut blasting myself. It's really easy, and something I have experience with from BMW's N54 motors..... I trust myself, and team of friends much more than I trust a someone from Hyundai who hasn't really worked on the TAU...

Never said dealer would void your warranty. But car dealers do get letters like this from GM "Based on the information below - Please inform the customer that the Powertrain portion of the Vehicle Warranty is no longer in effect for the engine, transmission, driveline and rear axle on 2G1FT1EWXA9111238 due to the presence of non GM calibrations and/or equipment."
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

Never said dealer would void your warranty. But car dealers do get letters like this from GM "Based on the information below - Please inform the customer that the Powertrain portion of the Vehicle Warranty is no longer in effect for the engine, transmission, driveline and rear axle on 2G1FT1EWXA9111238 due to the presence of non GM calibrations and/or equipment."

That's understandable in the sense GM is indicating that some aftermarket equipment has caused void to the warranty. (Assuming they realize what the Magnussen Moss Act is and still believe they can void a warranty)

If somebody takes off a part and reinstalls it to spec, I don't see how/why they would void the warranty. They shouldn't even know it was taken apart if installed correctly.
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Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

That's understandable in the sense GM is indicating that some aftermarket equipment has caused void to the warranty. (Assuming they realize what the Magnussen Moss Act is and still believe they can void a warranty)

If somebody takes off a part and reinstalls it to spec, I don't see how/why they would void the warranty. They shouldn't even know it was taken apart if installed correctly.

I agree, thats why I stated put it back exactly like factory. For example, if a different gasket is used and then leaks, hence a warranty problem.
 
This is common in all GDI engines. I have yet to hear of a single car with direct injection that does not have this issue (except for the few cars with both DI and PI). My last car, a 2007 Mazdaspeed 6, it was common for owners to remove the IM and clean the valves every 15 to 30k miles...

At least on these cars it takes less than 30 min. It was pretty much an all day job on the Mazda...
 
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Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

Any how to on the 3.8L?
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

I've seen this on carb'd engines in the past, and the fuel certainly flows past those intake valves.

If its not crap from the fuel used, what is building up on the valves?

Anyone use seafoam? I've used in on a couple of cars and it sure does make them smoke for few minutes of driving after you dump it into the intake. I believe you can put it in the oil, pour it into the intake or put it in the gas tank.
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

Based on my experience with other GDI cars, much of the build up tends to be from the EGR. It is common with the Mazda and VW crowd to block off the EGR and install oil catch cans to limit this build up.

Regardless of these measures, I have still found that a regular cleaning is necessary. I have yet to perform this on the Genesis, but it basically entails removing the intake manifold, soaking the valves in solvent, scraping off the deposits, and sucking out the solvent and loose crud removed from the valves.

You can search for posts on many other forums in regards to the results of Seafoam treatment to solve this problem, but to save you the time, it does little to nothing to remove the deposits (but certainly does not hurt when done correctly).
 
I'm baffled by the fact that the OP has previously installed a catch can, but the pictures in this post indicate there is little benefit to doing so.

Having said that, I'd still be interested if the catch can was homemade or purchased and if purchased, which one and the seller.
 
Re: Excessiver intake valve buildup

Path914 -- you are correct. It's a simple procedure, just time consuming.

Materials being used:

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

Start with removing all vacuum lines, coil packs, and spark plugs. Once you have the TB off, and IM your motor should look like this:

i-7pbr6pF-XL.jpg


Rotate the crank with a 22MM 1/2" socket and close the valves in one of the cylinders. This will be easier with the spark plugs and coil packs removed.
 
I think that it's in the owners manual that you are to add a fuel treatment to a tank of fuel every 7500 miles if you don't use high detergent fuel in your vehicle.
 
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