HID to LED Headlight Conversion

[youngforever]

I don't remember the pin-count. Here is a post that shows the pin-out of the stock harness on the 2015s. Sorry I don't have the details on the modified harness post handy, but when I take mine apart again I'll post a picture.

As for why I would strongly prefer not to hold onto the car past 100K miles, it comes down to the repair costs for big-ticket items. The head-unit alone in this car is almost $4000. Also in my youth I bought used cars and have on more than one occasion been stranded on a highway in the most inconvenient fashion. So long as I am blessed to do so, I will do everything in my power to not be in that situation again. Besides, if I'm honest, I'm a gadget freak and somewhat addicted to "new-car-smell."

But if I could extend my warranty for 2G for another 50K miles, I would be willing to do that (not saying those numbers are realistic or feasible, just something I pulled out of the air). I really do love my car and am not sure the 3rd generation Genesis/G80 will be available by the time I reach 100K miles. And at this point, I have no idea what I would buy that would have the same level of tech and not be annoying in other ways. Or be way overpriced.

Makes sense but you could probably easily go past 100k long as the car was well taken care of.

But I'm looking to pull the plug on these headlights. Just wanted to make sure all would be good When it came down installation and functionality. I would think by it being designed for the USA model things shouldn't be to off.

 

[1FstYota]

Makes sense but you could probably easily go past 100k long as the car was well taken care of.

But I'm looking to pull the plug on these headlights. Just wanted to make sure all would be good When it came down installation and functionality. I would think by it being designed for the USA model things shouldn't be to off.

At this point you would literally be the first on the forums that would go thru with it, other have bought the headlights but ditched the project, so if you want to make sure your good then you are going to have to do the work to make "sure" you're good. DougMCP has the manuals for 15 and 2018 if I recall you would need both to look at the pin outs and you might need to add an extra wire for DRL or high beam. But just plug and praying is worse you can do this a car like this, with all the electronics.

 

[youngforever]

At this point you would literally be the first on the forums that would go thru with it, other have bought the headlights but ditched the project, so if you want to make sure your good then you are going to have to do the work to make "sure" you're good. DougMCP has the manuals for 15 and 2018 if I recall you would need both to look at the pin outs and you might need to add an extra wire for DRL or high beam. But just plug and praying is worse you can do this a car like this, with all the electronics.

I spoke to madcat who has done this and he said its pretty much all plug and play and that harness is needed

This guy also saying its plug and play

So I made the leap and purchased them

My guy who specializes in headlight customization will be installing these for me once they arrived.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=3s&v=f_AbUdt7TPY

 

[1FstYota]

I spoke to madcat who has done this and he said its pretty much all plug and play and that harness is needed

This guy also saying its plug and play

So I made the leap and purchased them

My guy who specializes in headlight customization will be installing these for me once they arrived.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=3s&v=f_AbUdt7TPY

Cool, let us know, and share what is needed to be modded for it to work.

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[youngforever]

Cool, let us know, and share what is needed to be modded for it to work.

No problem

 

[1FstYota]

No problem

I would of done this but I spend the money on the G80 Sport conversion instead, but I'll probably do the headlights eventually too these HIDs are some of the worst I've seen.

 

[youngforever]

Well your half way there only thing we would be missing is the turbo. But yes those hids that come stock on our cars suck so bad I can't believe they even put this or pass this garbage to be put on our cars. If our lights wasnt so bad I probably wouldnt of even attempted this but unfortunately they are

 

[1FstYota]

Well your half way there only thing we would be missing is the turbo. But yes those hids that come stock on our cars suck so bad I can't believe they even put this or pass this garbage to be put on our cars. If our lights wasnt so bad I probably wouldnt of even attempted this but unfortunately they are

Yea, some turbos would be nice. I'm pretty sure at some point I'll get a pair of the led headlights, my service manager already told me I'm pushing it on warranty with the bumper upgrades lol.

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[youngforever]

Yea, some turbos would be nice. I'm pretty sure at some point I'll get a pair of the led headlights, my service manager already told me I'm pushing it on warranty with the bumper upgrades lol.

I mean its only voided if they can prove the headlights are the issue if something was to fail. But them led headlights vs our stock hid is completely night and day between the two plus the leds looks so much better.

I really want to.add the led foglights but I think that might be really pushing it.

 

[CarlitoGR]

So I made the plunge today. I ordered G80 Headlights, led foglamps, and Multifunction Switch with the Fog Lamp Switch from ebay. I was so tired of reading about the mod, I just said F it and "git 'er done".

 

[CarlitoGR]

So I have received the fog lights and the right side head lamps. Although it looks really good, I do see the flickering that others have seen. The thing is the flickering is definitely a pattern so there is an underlying reason for that. Either way... Now I also got my hands on the wiring diagram for the 2015. The reason that the high beams don't work is because the LED headlamps are expecting the ground for the high beam on pin4, the hot on pin 3. Also the LED headlamps are using pin2 as the ground and pin6 for the hot of the headlamp leveling device. On the 2015 Headlamp, pin2 is the ground, pin6 is the hot for the high beam solenoid; pin9 is the ground and pin13 is the hot for the headlamp leveling device. I really think that reordering the pins in the adapter harness would be the way to go to the signaling to the correct connector. Once I get my harnesses in, I'll be able to continue and re-pin, hopefully without running new wires. We'll see...

In progress


Bi-Xenon Schematic


Bi-Xenon Wiring


Dual Headlight Schematic


LED Headlight Schematic


LED Headlight Wiring

 

[Milano]

A German, Living in the US, Driving a Korean car... ha!

I get a Greek salad made by Mexicans at an Albanian owned Italian restaurant. Go figure! And it's damn good, too!

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[CarlitoGR]

So I got the Shark Racing wire harness that allows the swap from Bi-Xenon to Dual-HID. Well, the relay on this harness is useless in the LED conversion. Also the harness is not worth the money, but what else are you gonna do. I removed the relay and added a single pole dual throw (SPDT) delay on relay and used the turn signal pin as the power and wired the DRL to the normally open terminal of the relay. Basically the turn signal is connected to power by default and when it is blinking its still connected. However, when there is constant signal ~1.5 seconds, the relay clicks over to the normally open side and energizes the DRL wire. If you use the turn signal with the DRL on? well, in theory no problem, the intermittent blinks de-energizes the relay and it reverts back to normally closed side. Well, good news is the, turn signals and hazards work. Bad news is its night time and I can't test the DRLs till the morning. The DRL does blink on after the turn signal when I lock the car, but that's because the relay timer is slightly off, will take a little fine tuning. I also haven't completely finished the harness soldering to get the high beams working properly. This will be totally reversible, plug & play (except for the soldering) and no wire runs to the battery box are needed. Will post a video tomorrow.

This Beta Version 0.1 for proof of concept

 

[CarlitoGR]

Well..... sigh..... I plugged in the harness and initially it worked, but I still have the LED flicker which caused the relay to click like a mad man.... So I need to figure out the flicker and I think this would be a viable solution...

 

[CarlitoGR]

Well, I think I have done it!

I kinda gave up on this for a while. Spent a bunch of money, only to feel as is I lost my auto headlights. I was looking around the net and saw a couple vids that got me to think that a capacitor would be the answer. So, I stopped off by MicroCenter to pick up two 3300µF (micro farad) capacitors to see if smoothing out the current applied to the signal lights is the issue. In another thread, someone made the comment that manufactures sometimes use pulsed current. That got me to think that having a capacitor to keep the current from momentarily dropping out, in essence causing the flicker. Before I headed off to work this morning, I threw one of the capacitors in parallel of the positive and negative coils of the relay and what do you know..... no flickering, no relay clicking like a mad man. It goes from yellow, to bright DRL, just like I want and expected. I still have to test a bit longer and adjust the timing of the relay a bit. I will definitely post a link to a video once I get a chance today! Other than that, I just need to clean up this harness and get it ready for a permanent installation.

 

[CarlitoGR]

Here is the video that I said I'd post.

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[1FstYota]

Here is the video that I said I'd post.

Good work man, that's sick.

 

[cRaCkZzZz]

Well, I think I have done it!

I kinda gave up on this for a while. Spent a bunch of money, only to feel as is I lost my auto headlights. I was looking around the net and saw a couple vids that got me to think that a capacitor would be the answer. So, I stopped off by MicroCenter to pick up two 3300µF (micro farad) capacitors to see if smoothing out the current applied to the signal lights is the issue. In another thread, someone made the comment that manufactures sometimes use pulsed current. That got me to think that having a capacitor to keep the current from momentarily dropping out, in essence causing the flicker. Before I headed off to work this morning, I threw one of the capacitors in parallel of the positive and negative coils of the relay and what do you know..... no flickering, no relay clicking like a mad man. It goes from yellow, to bright DRL, just like I want and expected. I still have to test a bit longer and adjust the timing of the relay a bit. I will definitely post a link to a video once I get a chance today! Other than that, I just need to clean up this harness and get it ready for a permanent installation.

Hi CarlitoGR
Could you please share your final harness diagram? Thank you.

 

[2015G238]

I would love to do a conversion like this as well. It came out awesome.
What will have to be done to convert the 2015 to the full LED.
You have to buy an adapter and the splice and add replay and capacitor?

 

[Dat5.0GenLyfe2016]

Here is the video that I said I'd post.

Hello did you get the wiring done correctly yet???