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Hyundai only one to reset air suspension?

I just fixed my air suspension issues by replacing the 15amp fuse in the drivers side panel marked ECS!! Fuse wasn’t blown but the pins were discolored brownish black. Now the front and back air bags are going up and down on command and no ECS warning light. Woooohoo!!
Where is this fuse box? Picture please
 
It is left of steering wheel, down about knee height. See pictures.
 

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It is the air fill tube for the reservoir tank. If the system gets too low in air for the compressor to fill then it has to be done manually by the service shop. And as far as I know it has to be done by the Hyundai service shop. They have the only equipment in town.
Jaypee, what was the resolution to this for you. I am looking at buying the RMT front struts but would like to know what I am looking at as it relates to the other costs. As I understand it you replaced the struts but the compressor didn't fill the bags? What is the process you found was needed? Many thanks
 
I did not buy it from a Hyundai dealer. And yes, they are just trying to take advantage of the situation. Jerks
Does anyone know if swapping to the 2011 Hyundai Genesis shocks and struts would work in the 2011 Equus or is there a specific reason as to why we MUST purchase strutmasters kit?
 
Good morning, I have a 2012 Equus, I will like to do conversion.
Any recommendation for replacing the Strut to a conversion kit? Please help out
 
Hey, I know this is an older thread, but there are ways to fix this economically. I had the same issues, sagging front end. I bought RMT remanufactured struts and installed. After installation I calibrated them using the autotel scanner that connects via bluetooth. That scanner can be set to region-specific and car specific. I was able to inject air with my craftsman air compressor (which is essential)d, just make sure you use the correct port and calibrated my tires/wheels just like they do at the dealership. Really the most difficult part of the job is separating the ball joints. Everything else is a piece of cake. Really not a tough job at all. If you have a dual point leak down (front driver and front passenger) I doubt it's a solenoid. Usually, one or both of the struts have failed. I inspected my old struts and aside from the old accordion cover being brittle, I couldn't find any leaks. The air suspension is extremely simple - air goes in and without leaks, the struts shouldn't deflate. If they deflate, then you have a leak and that's where the fun begins, chasing the leak. But 10 out of 10 it's the struts that go bad. Again, buy a pancake compressor, get the right fitting and you'll fix in no time.
 
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Hey, I know this is an older thread, but there are ways to fix this economically. I had the same issues, sagging front end. I bought RMT remanufactured struts and installed. After installation I calibrated them using the autotel scanner that connects via bluetooth. That scanner can be set to region-specific and car specific. I was able to inject air with my craftsman air compressor (which is essential)d, just make sure you use the correct port and calibrated my tires/wheels just like they do at the dealership. Really the most difficult part of the job is separating the ball joints. Everything else is a piece of cake. Really not a tough job at all. If you have a dual point leak down (front driver and front passenger) I doubt it's a solenoid. Usually, one or both of the struts have failed. I inspected my old struts and aside from the old accordion cover being brittle, I couldn't find any leaks. The air suspension is extremely simple - air goes in and without leaks, the struts shouldn't deflate. If they deflate, then you have a leak and that's where the fun begins, chasing the leak. But 10 out of 10 it's the struts that go bad. Again, buy a pancake compressor, get the right fitting and you'll fix in no time.
 
Hey, I know this is an older thread, but there are ways to fix this economically. I had the same issues, sagging front end. I bought RMT remanufactured struts and installed. After installation I calibrated them using the autotel scanner that connects via bluetooth. That scanner can be set to region-specific and car specific. I was able to inject air with my craftsman air compressor (which is essential)d, just make sure you use the correct port and calibrated my tires/wheels just like they do at the dealership. Really the most difficult part of the job is separating the ball joints. Everything else is a piece of cake. Really not a tough job at all. If you have a dual point leak down (front driver and front passenger) I doubt it's a solenoid. Usually, one or both of the struts have failed. I inspected my old struts and aside from the old accordion cover being brittle, I couldn't find any leaks. The air suspension is extremely simple - air goes in and without leaks, the struts shouldn't deflate. If they deflate, then you have a leak and that's where the fun begins, chasing the leak. But 10 out of 10 it's the struts that go bad. Again, buy a pancake compressor, get the right fitting and you'll fix in no time.
I can't even thank every one here enough, I have a 2013 Equus sitting at a shop right now that's been there for over a month. Nobody can figure out why it won't air itself back up. They said they've tried everything and I have no idea what is going on. I appreciate everyone here for letting me know I'm not alone in this. I'm definitely showing this comment and this entire threat to the shop that's working on my car and see if any of this can help them out because right now, I feel like myself and the shop are at a total loss.
 
Hey, I know this is an older thread, but there are ways to fix this economically. I had the same issues, sagging front end. I bought RMT remanufactured struts and installed. After installation I calibrated them using the autotel scanner that connects via bluetooth. That scanner can be set to region-specific and car specific. I was able to inject air with my craftsman air compressor (which is essential)d, just make sure you use the correct port and calibrated my tires/wheels just like they do at the dealership. Really the most difficult part of the job is separating the ball joints. Everything else is a piece of cake. Really not a tough job at all. If you have a dual point leak down (front driver and front passenger) I doubt it's a solenoid. Usually, one or both of the struts have failed. I inspected my old struts and aside from the old accordion cover being brittle, I couldn't find any leaks. The air suspension is extremely simple - air goes in and without leaks, the struts shouldn't deflate. If they deflate, then you have a leak and that's where the fun begins, chasing the leak. But 10 out of 10 it's the struts that go bad. Again, buy a pancake compressor, get the right fitting and you'll fix in no time.
I need your expertise. Hyundai doesnt have the equipment. What port did you use. an Indy told me a special adapter is needed for the front driver side port. My new air shocks are installed
 
Hey, I know this is an older thread, but there are ways to fix this economically. I had the same issues, sagging front end. I bought RMT remanufactured struts and installed. After installation I calibrated them using the autotel scanner that connects via bluetooth. That scanner can be set to region-specific and car specific. I was able to inject air with my craftsman air compressor (which is essential)d, just make sure you use the correct port and calibrated my tires/wheels just like they do at the dealership. Really the most difficult part of the job is separating the ball joints. Everything else is a piece of cake. Really not a tough job at all. If you have a dual point leak down (front driver and front passenger) I doubt it's a solenoid. Usually, one or both of the struts have failed. I inspected my old struts and aside from the old accordion cover being brittle, I couldn't find any leaks. The air suspension is extremely simple - air goes in and without leaks, the struts shouldn't deflate. If they deflate, then you have a leak and that's where the fun begins, chasing the leak. But 10 out of 10 it's the struts that go bad. Again, buy a pancake compressor, get the right fitting and you'll fix in no time.
Can I direct message you?
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I can't even thank every one here enough, I have a 2013 Equus sitting at a shop right now that's been there for over a month. Nobody can figure out why it won't air itself back up. They said they've tried everything and I have no idea what is going on. I appreciate everyone here for letting me know I'm not alone in this. I'm definitely showing this comment and this entire threat to the shop that's working on my car and see if any of this can help them out because right now, I feel like myself and the shop are at a total loss.
The right fitting appears to be the issue
 
Hey, I know this is an older thread, but there are ways to fix this economically. I had the same issues, sagging front end. I bought RMT remanufactured struts and installed. After installation I calibrated them using the autotel scanner that connects via bluetooth. That scanner can be set to region-specific and car specific. I was able to inject air with my craftsman air compressor (which is essential)d, just make sure you use the correct port and calibrated my tires/wheels just like they do at the dealership. Really the most difficult part of the job is separating the ball joints. Everything else is a piece of cake. Really not a tough job at all. If you have a dual point leak down (front driver and front passenger) I doubt it's a solenoid. Usually, one or both of the struts have failed. I inspected my old struts and aside from the old accordion cover being brittle, I couldn't find any leaks. The air suspension is extremely simple - air goes in and without leaks, the struts shouldn't deflate. If they deflate, then you have a leak and that's where the fun begins, chasing the leak. But 10 out of 10 it's the struts that go bad. Again, buy a pancake compressor, get the right fitting and you'll fix in no time.
Can I direct message you. I can get a compressor..but the fitting appears to be the issue
 
I am back on the road. Somewhat of a comedy of errors. Short story: one of the new RMT rebuilds had a leak at the valve.

Long story: both front shocks give out. I get replacements from RMT. An Indy installs them. He fills and then they deflate.

take it to dealer 1. We don’t have the equipment to fill or calibrate. Have it towed to dealer two. Tech discovers leak. I call RMT while car is at dealer. They want me to return shock and have it rebuilt. Oh no, I said. I buy another shock and send it to dealer. Tech is unbelievable. He gets the shock, installs it…airs it and calibrates it for 309. He said when he saw the look on my face that I had a bad rebuilt shock from RMT, he told his boss…and his boss agreed to a reduced price.

now I have to return the bad shock to RMT..and request a refund. We shall see
 
I am back on the road. Somewhat of a comedy of errors. Short story: one of the new RMT rebuilds had a leak at the valve.

Long story: both front shocks give out. I get replacements from RMT. An Indy installs them. He fills and then they deflate.

take it to dealer 1. We don’t have the equipment to fill or calibrate. Have it towed to dealer two. Tech discovers leak. I call RMT while car is at dealer. They want me to return shock and have it rebuilt. Oh no, I said. I buy another shock and send it to dealer. Tech is unbelievable. He gets the shock, installs it…airs it and calibrates it for 309. He said when he saw the look on my face that I had a bad rebuilt shock from RMT, he told his boss…and his boss agreed to a reduced price.

now I have to return the bad shock to RMT..and request a refund. We shall see
Wow…RMT generally gets good reviews but no one’s perfect. They should’ve caught the leak after the reman process during testing.

Sorry to hear all you had to go through, but glad that you’re up and running!
 
I know this is an old post. My 1 owner 2013 Equus rear air ride will work for days at a time , then for no reason not work .Only rear I can usually let car sit for a few minutes and it fills up and rides like new until it fails. I recently left in garage with rear at perfect height for 10 days and no leaks it stayed up . I drove for 1 hour and down next day up. Any ideas? I would think a leak would be constant am I wrong?Only rear issue.
 
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