I'm at a loss...

[RoyG70]

Damn, do you work as a professional auto mechanic, or is this just a hobby for you? Seems pretty damn complicated. I can barely manage to put air in my tires LOL. Good luck, I'm rooting for you.

 

[TurtleBoy]

Damn, do you work as a professional auto mechanic, or is this just a hobby for you? Seems pretty damn complicated. I can barely manage to put air in my tires LOL. Good luck, I'm rooting for you.

It seems like he is a lot more skilled, organized, determined and resourceful than many professional mechanics seem to be. There is no doubt he will be successful at this, it may not all go smoothly but it will get done in the end.

Good luck my friend!

 

[Bourbonncigars]

Damn, do you work as a professional auto mechanic, or is this just a hobby for you? Seems pretty damn complicated. I can barely manage to put air in my tires LOL. Good luck, I'm rooting for you.

If this was me I'd have towed it to the nearest lake at 2am. Next morning I'd be claiming someone done stole my shit.

 

[RoyG70]

If this was me I'd have towed it to the nearest lake at 2am. Next morning I'd be claiming someone done stole my shit.

"Hello, insurance company, yes, I walked outside this morning to find my new Genesis G70 completely engulfed in flames. It has since burned to the ground and appears to be a total loss. Please send an adjuster. Thanks."

 

[Aura]

Well done for persevering even after being overwhelmed at first. Genesis has the resources behind them to buy anything, that specific table shouldn't come down to your expenditure. It's awesome to see so many supporting and offering advise... and suspense wiith humour.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Okay, spent about an hour working on it after coming home from work. This time it was a lot tougher, mostly due to lack of sleep.

First thing I did was focus on removing the coolant lines feeding the turbo. My low-pro hex wrench did the trick, and the bolts are out. Next, I unbolted the coolant line bracket, then unclamped the front end of the hose, here....


Upon disconnecting the hose I got a nice flow of coolant coming out, spilling to the ground. I knew this would happen at some point, because after draining the radiator there is always still plenty of coolant in the block. After the fact I realized I should have disconnected the hose further down the line where it plugs into the water-to-oil cooler located on the oil filter housing, then just allowed the coolant to drain into my container. Obviously my lack of sleep is getting to me.

Anyway, the turbo coolant line is disconnected, mostly. I left the hose connected on the back of the block, and tied the hose to stay out of the way...


Next up is the lower radiator hose. First I unbolted the bracket, just above the turbo.


Next, it looks like there is another bracket + bolt on the back of the block. It was easiest for me to undo this from underneath the car...


Now ready to unclamp the hose from the metal tube...



Again, I had a little bit of coolant leaking out from where the metal tube connects to the back of the block, this was because of me angling the tube upwards to get out of the way. By now I can really see that little turbo in all it's glory!



And that's where it stands right now. I'm too tired to continue working, as I'm already making mistakes. Anyway, the next challenge is unbolting the turbo oil lines. The feed line is bolted on top of the turbo (as seen in the picture above), and the drain line is bolted up underneath the turbo. This will be a problem for me, as the drain line looks very difficult to get to. Here is a pic of the drain line, used my phone to sneak up underneath it...


And here is the view from underneath the car....Haha. I've got a big front differential and passenger's side axle in the way.



The guy on the Stinger forum who did this told me it's best to unbolt it from underneath the car, using a very long extension. I am beginning to wonder if he has a RWD car, and subsequently has much easier access to the turbo from underneath, whereas I have my AWD drivetrain blocking the way. That said, I need some time to think it over. Despite the stuff in the way, there still might be enough room to do it - but it will have to wait for another day. For now it's time to sleep.

 

[Bourbonncigars]

It's going to be a hell of a towing bill from Mississippi since I think I want you doing all my mechanic work now.

 

[MrMegadeth]

@Toddasaurus since you are tired be sure to label all of those lines with tape and their corresponding ports. Also keep a log of the bolts and screws and anything else coming out. Worth the few minutes of writing, unless you have the service manual. Pictures pictures pictures too.

Labeling the lines and ports always makes reassembly a lot faster, though.

 

[pulsar]

When it’s back together and your adding coolant for the first time, there may be a special process to burp the system to get air pockets out. Some systems don’t purge themselves very easy so worth checking into.

 

[joegr]

When it’s back together and your adding coolant for the first time, there may be a special process to burp the system to get air pockets out. Some systems don’t purge themselves very easy so worth checking into.

Something like this usually makes it much easier: Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 24444 5 Adapters Cooling System Refiller Kit: Automotive

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[Toddasaurus]

When it’s back together and your adding coolant for the first time, there may be a special process to burp the system to get air pockets out. Some systems don’t purge themselves very easy so worth checking into.

Yup, I've been looking at the coolant refill process on the FSM. It says there is a bleeder hose on top of the engine, in front of the surge tank/intake manifold, covered by sound deadening foam. On top of this there is a process where you can plug in a computer and essentially make the electronic thermostat stay open to circulate the coolant. Unfortunately I don't have this device.. Still trying to figure out the best way to go about it.

I may use that vacuum pump listed above.

 

[Toddasaurus]

You know, at this point it may be worth just trying to tap it where it is. Now that the coolant lines are out of the way there is a ton more room. Maybe I should rent a tap and give it a shot... If it works, then I wouldn't even have to pull the whole turbo.

 

[Beefer]

You know, at this point it may be worth just trying to tap it where it is. Now that the coolant lines are out of the way there is a ton more room. Maybe I should rent a tap and give it a shot... If it works, then I wouldn't even have to pull the whole turbo.

I would do that.

Also...any way to avoid tapping? Use 2 nuts with a double sided threaded bolt?

 

[Toddasaurus]

I would do that.

Also...any way to avoid tapping? Use 2 nuts with a double sided threaded bolt?

Well the old broken stud is already out, the dealership at least was able to do that themselves, so they weren't completely useless.

I looked at all the threads with my phone and they are pretty much all intact, but a couple do look a little rough. I'm hoping I can just chase those threads down with a tap...

 

[Beefer]

Well the old broken stud is already out, the dealership at least was able to do that themselves, so they weren't completely useless.

I looked at all the threads with my phone and they are pretty much all intact, but a couple do look a little rough. I'm hoping I can just chase those threads down with a tap...

Ah...understood.

 

[Husky]

You know, at this point it may be worth just trying to tap it where it is. Now that the coolant lines are out of the way there is a ton more room. Maybe I should rent a tap and give it a shot... If it works, then I wouldn't even have to pull the whole turbo.

I'm trying to better understand the situation. Sorry if I'm being thick. The dealer got the broken stud out, right? So why do you need to tap it? To clean up the threads, or is it damaged or is part of the stud still stuck in there?

 

[Bourbonncigars]

You know, at this point it may be worth just trying to tap it where it is. Now that the coolant lines are out of the way there is a ton more room. Maybe I should rent a tap and give it a shot... If it works, then I wouldn't even have to pull the whole turbo.

Are you posting this progress and ideas/thoughts on the Stinger forum as well?

 

[joschneider]

Are you posting this progress and ideas/thoughts on the Stinger forum as well?

Yes he is

 

[Toddasaurus]

I'm trying to better understand the situation. Sorry if I'm being thick. The dealer got the broken stud out, right? So why do you need to tap it? To clean up the threads, or is it damaged or is part of the stud still stuck in there?

The threads on the turbo exhaust flange are still intact, but some of them little just a little galled up. I would use the tap to just clean up the existing threads.

 

[Husky]

The threads on the turbo exhaust flange are still intact, but some of them little just a little galled up. I would use the tap to just clean up the existing threads.

Got it. Of course, they may grip better as is.