oil change info 5.0 in pics

[Mark_888]

... not to mention the general tone of certainty you talk with even when you have no idea at all what you're talking about (not referring to this thread on that one).

Well this is a breath of fresh air, admitting that your personal attacks against me are because of some argument on another thread.

I think the subject of oil change intervals, oil viscosity, synthetic vs conventional oil, etc are topics of interest to many. I suggest we get back to the subject of this thread.

 

[italiabrain]

Well this is a breath of fresh air, admitting that your personal attacks against me are because of some argument on another thread.

I think the subject of oil change intervals, oil viscosity, synthetic vs conventional oil, etc are topics of interest to many. I suggest we get back to the subject of this thread.

Seriously? More of the same strawman BS? I didn't say this was in reference to something in another thread. I was making an exception that you actually did know something about what you were talking about this time... And it's not a personal attack to reference what you're actually doing in your responses.

 

[Alwaysforward]

Can't we all just get along

 

[lobsenza]

Is it harder to use the Hyundai element filter vs a standard screw on can filter? Is there a can filter from Hyundai (or someone else) that fits the 2015 5.0?

 

[Mark_888]

Is it harder to use the Hyundai element filter vs a standard screw on can filter? Is there a can filter from Hyundai (or someone else) that fits the 2015 5.0?

No and no. The only thing you may need is a large hex socket to put on a socket wrench to remove the plastic filter cap. The previous models used 27mm, but not sure about 2015. You can get one at an auto-parts store like Autozone fairly cheap (they sell individual sizes without having buy a whole set). I think a 27mm is usually made to fit a 1/2 socket wrench, so if you have a 3/8 wrench you just need an additional 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter.

 

[STREETS]

That oil was that dirty/black at 500 miles? Something must be amiss.
My '09 with 100K looks light tan when I changed it before winter (changed from 10W30 to 0W30) with 3000 miles use.
Wish they left the oil filter on top as in earlier models- removing the bottom pan is a PITA

 

[Mark_888]

That oil was that dirty/black at 500 miles? Something must be amiss.
My '09 with 100K looks light tan when I changed it before winter (changed from 10W30 to 0W30) with 3000 miles use.
Wish they left the oil filter on top as in earlier models- removing the bottom pan is a PITA

I think the GDI engines starting in 2012 makes the oil get darker a lot faster (and a lot darker).

Some are saying that on the 2015 V6, even though oil filter is on bottom, it can be reached from above if one has long arms. I have no direct knowledge of this, but there is a thread on the subject somewhere on this site.

 

[lobsenza]

The oil is always dirtiest at the first oil change. Pieces from the engine manufacture get into the oil and that is the reason. That is why I always do my first oil change between 1000 and 1500 miles. This is enough time to get the metal particles into the oil without having them circulate in the engine too long.

 

[Mac West]

Always better to have nice dirty oil thats what it should do . Or your oil is leaving that crap in your motor

 

[jimb100]

The oil is always dirtiest at the first oil change. Pieces from the engine manufacture get into the oil and that is the reason. That is why I always do my first oil change between 1000 and 1500 miles. This is enough time to get the metal particles into the oil without having them circulate in the engine too long.

Seems odd the oil filter wouldn't take care of "metal particles" in the oil. Oil filters in today's cars can remove particles 20 microns in diameter. A human bacteria can measure 20 microns. And the soot found floating around in cigarette smoke can measure nearly one micron.

What passes through the filter is going to remain in suspension in the oil and is unlikely to do any damage to any engine part.

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[Mark_888]

Always better to have nice dirty oil thats what it should do . Or your oil is leaving that crap in your motor

Another possibility is that the engine actually "is" cleaner when using a particular oil over the long run. When using Mobil 1 synthetic, I find my engine oil to stay relatively clean between changes at 5-6K miles. Relatively clean means not totally black as some oils can get. I don't think that means that Mobil 1 is not good at removing dirt, carbon, soot, etc from an engine, because it excels at that.

 

[lobsenza]

The filter does trap many particles. But, I think the extra oil and filter change doesn't hurt.

 

[jimb100]

The filter does trap many particles. But, I think the extra oil and filter change doesn't hurt.

Its not a question of does it hurt, rather does it help.

People should not believe there are pieces of metal floating around in their oil at 500 miles.

Why waste money if there is no benefit? I also believe the more times you fix something that isn't broken you leave yourself open to mechanic's error.

Overfilling, underfilling, cross threading, there are many more horror stories resulting from mechanic's error than there are from engine damage when following manufacturer's recommendations.

Its better for the environment, too.

 

[Mac West]

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

[lobsenza]

I just started my first oil change. The first thing I noticed were that the jack points were very restrictive. I normally jack up the car and then put a jack stand under the car and then jack up the other side. There was no room for the floor jack and the jack stand. So, rather than jacking up both sides, i cut a block of wood the shape of the factory jack and jacked up one side only. I then put a jack stand just behind the floor jack so in the unlikely event the jack fails, the car will fall on the jack stand. I used to use ramps, but newer cars have lower clearances, so I switched to the jacking method. I also didn't love driving the car up onto the ramps.

I then removed the lower trim panel under the engine. It was not difficult, but many fasteners. I then realized that the back panel has to be removed to access the drain plug. What a pain.

I am now letting the oil drain.

The next step is the filter.

I am not looking forward to putting the panels back on.

I thought changing the oil in my Sequoia was hard, but the Genesis is harder. It is a good thing it is a 7500 mile interval!!!

 

[lobsenza]

The oil change is complete. I am sure the lower panels aid in aerodynamics and noise, but they are a pain. I reinstalled the front panel first. I then slid the tongue of the rear panel into the front panel. I then attached the back of the rear panel and then the front pf the rear panel. It is better to have all the screws installed before tightening any of them.

The oil filter wasn't too bad. I was dreading the element style filter. The only drawback is that I could not figure out a good way to prefill the filter with oil. I normally do this when I change the oil in my vehicles to help with the initial start after the oil change.

I am sure I can do it in much less time the second time I do it.

My first oil change was at just over 1300 miles. My next one will be at 7500 and then every 7500 after that. This is definitely a harder oil change than most vehicles. But, on the bright side, my other vehicles have a 5000 mile interval vs a 7500 on the Genesis.

I used 0w-30 Mobil 1.

I have the 5 liter V8.

 

[Mac West]

Use ramps race ramps are great. Two people for rear panel . Its a pain but at least you know its done right ! Mac

 

[lobsenza]

I am going to look into race ramps. If you install the rear pane1 the way I recommended, it is easy with 1 person. the key is to put in the front panel first and then slide the tongue of the rear panel into the front panel.

Which model of race ramps do you recommend?

 

[Alwaysforward]

Some one on here posted a contraption you can buy to suck the oil out of the dipstick. Not sure where the oil filter is located but if you don't have to remove the panels to get to it, this might be another option. If you have to remove the panels anyhow, then probably not worth it...

 

[Mark_888]

Some one on here posted a contraption you can buy to suck the oil out of the dipstick. Not sure where the oil filter is located but if you don't have to remove the panels to get to it, this might be another option. If you have to remove the panels anyhow, then probably not worth it...

That was me. I use a Mityvac 7300 Fluid Extractor that is hooked to a small air compressor that I already had. Since the 2009-2011 Genesis V6 has the oil filter on top, using a fluid extractor to pull oil from the dipstick tube completely removes the need to jack up the car for oil changes. My understanding is that most BMW and MB dealers use fluid extractors also. It doesn't always work with all engines, but does work fine with my Genesis V6, and I get more oil out that way then via a drain plug ("if" I spend a few minutes and move around the plastic tube that goes into the dipstick to make sure it gets the maximum amount out).

Someone with a 2015 V6 said that the oil filter may be accessible from the top by someone with long arms, even though the filter is mounted at the bottom. But I have no confirmation on that. I don't believe there is any way to do that on the Genesis V8.

One reason I use an oil extractor instead of ramps is that it seems like it would be hard to get all the oil out via the drain plug if the car is not level, but I don't have much experience with ramps to verify that.

I hope I will not be punished for posting in the 2015 section of the forum even though I don't own one.