Oil Change On 4.6 V8

[MANRETIRED]

I Would Appreciated Very Much If One Of You Guys Can Tell Me If It Is Worth The Trouble To Change My Own Oil On The 4.6 V8. Location Of Oil Filter And The Oil Plug. I Am Thinking About Changing My Oil Every 10,000 Miles Using High End Synthetic Oil.

 

[YeahRightNC]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

Just a suggestion, but I would check with, and get in writing from the dealership or zone office, that running synthetic oil with a 10K mile service interval will not void your warranty. I'd also make darned sure that I kept every single receipt where oil/filters, etc. were purchased, so that you have some kind of proof that it was changed.

I change mine every 5 - 7K, with Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w/20 - It's $20 for the dealer to do the oil change; I just take my own oil (from Costco) in when I have it serviced. Change interval is supposed to be 7,500; my commute is all city driving, so I usually get it in around 5K miles. It's worth the $20 to not have to jack up the car, pull off the shroud, bang up my knuckles on the oil filter, and then wipe up any oil that accidently gets spilled during the change process. Plus, I usually get a complimentary exterior car wash, which is nice.

Congrats on having a Genesis - I entered another post today expressing the frustration I experienced at the dealership today when trying to buy a Genesis.

Ken

 

[BigElm]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

I'm just intrigued that the OP managed to capitalize the first letter of each word in a sentence(s).

Also, I think 10k oil change is a bit much of a wait. Your oil will turn into tar by then....IMO.

 

[DesertGen]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

Long changes are really not a problem for synth. I have been running Mobil 1 in my vehicles for some years. However, I once queried a Mobil engineer on what they recommended. He said they have tested fine on 20k oil changes BUT they recommend you follow the high change number in your manual, which would be 7500 in the Genesis (4.6). I have always changed mine at 5k, which is also when I rotate tires, check the vehicle over, etc.

 

[zedbyers]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

i love the oil change debate.

i work in an industrial environment, and on our small engines we change out the oil on an hour meter. have 4 CAT 6512s that we run dino in, and change out every 250 hours (roughly equal to 10,000 miles). we also sample (which is the best way to monitor oil).

our big medium speed diesels (Wartsila 16V26s and 200/20 series) we go even longer. again we sample, and usually find other issues with the engine, long before the oil goes bad. we watch the TBNs and the biggest problem is either fuel or water in the oil (indicating other maintenance problems).

5000 miles is way early. do you think that car makers put the mobil logo on the oil fill cap or in the manual, or put the bp logo on the gas tank lid just becuase? it is called marketing. money exchanges hands, you can be sure of that.

on the flip side of the oil change coin, you have to stay within the limits of what is stated in the manual. if you have a failure, even if it isn't related, they will try and come back at you with the service history. you will have a very diffiuclt time arguing it, even though you would be in the right.

so if the manual says 7500 miles, do it at 7500 miles. anything sooner than that and you are buying peace of mind and nothing else.

 

[Wordman]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

I agree with zedbyers. I used to work with diesel generators in the middle east (Oman) - now there's a harsh environment for you. These were Dorman V8 single-turbocharged with 375kVA alternators, and V12 double-turbocharged with 500kVA alternators. Big, noisy, hot suckers. Water cooled, with 16 square foot radiators and fans blades that would have graced a Sopwith Camel...

Anyway, I digress. We ran these things for 11 days (264 hours) straight, then changed the oil. Coming from the UK, where car oil is changed every 10,000 miles, I was surprised when I moved to the US and was told to do it every 3,000 miles. Even when I had them put synthetic in my old Mustang, EZ Lube put a sticker in my window prompting replacement after 3,000 miles.

It's a scam, people, marketed by the likes of Jiffy Lube and EZ Lube.

 

[DeMAN]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

3k-5k oil change interval are not a scam, rather a habit. I hear people tell me all the time is thats what they have always done with there cars.

7500 miles is well within the normal range. Most oil change interval are determine by the number of start and not by the number of miles. Case in point. Most meters on new cars will allow you to put 7500 or even 8k on the odometer if you do all highway driving. You may only get 2500 miles out of a oil change if you have lots of short trip 5 miles or less. My Acura TL has done just that. I hope the Genesis oil change interval meter does just the same.

I would recommend in any case to either bring your car back to the dealer for service, buy your favorite syn and bring it with you to the dealer or fine a shop like a (Pennzoil Lube shop) and take it there for your changes. I been using the same outside shop for oil changes for almost 20 years. I have two cars that are 12 years old and they have a record of my very first oil change on both.

 

[DanTheMan]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

i love the oil change debate.

i work in an industrial environment, and on our small engines we change out the oil on an hour meter. have 4 CAT 6512s that we run dino in, and change out every 250 hours (roughly equal to 10,000 miles). we also sample (which is the best way to monitor oil).

our big medium speed diesels (Wartsila 16V26s and 200/20 series) we go even longer. again we sample, and usually find other issues with the engine, long before the oil goes bad. we watch the TBNs and the biggest problem is either fuel or water in the oil (indicating other maintenance problems).

5000 miles is way early. do you think that car makers put the mobil logo on the oil fill cap or in the manual, or put the bp logo on the gas tank lid just becuase? it is called marketing. money exchanges hands, you can be sure of that.

on the flip side of the oil change coin, you have to stay within the limits of what is stated in the manual. if you have a failure, even if it isn't related, they will try and come back at you with the service history. you will have a very diffiuclt time arguing it, even though you would be in the right.

so if the manual says 7500 miles, do it at 7500 miles. anything sooner than that and you are buying peace of mind and nothing else.

Hi Zed--

You said you sample oil on these engines. What do your analyses of used oil indicate (as to wear particle analysis), and at what point in the change cycle to you analyze? I'm curious as to where the breakdown takes place. What product do you use to analyze the oil?

I ask because I'm making the change to synthetic in my V6 Gen. Plus, I used to work for a company that made oil analysis tools (about 15 years ago...don't know if they still do or not...just curious)!

Thanks--

Dan :>)

 

[zedbyers]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

Hi Zed--

You said you sample oil on these engines. What do your analyses of used oil indicate (as to wear particle analysis), and at what point in the change cycle to you analyze? I'm curious as to where the breakdown takes place. What product do you use to analyze the oil?

I ask because I'm making the change to synthetic in my V6 Gen. Plus, I used to work for a company that made oil analysis tools (about 15 years ago...don't know if they still do or not...just curious)!

Thanks--

Dan :>)

Dan,

With the small diesels we just change it at 250 hours. which in essence is doing the same thing we all do on our cars. we run dino oil, and we run it a lot longer than what most people do in their cars, under much harder conditions.

with the larger ones we do more monitored based changing, but usually it gets completely changed, if i remember right around 4000 hours. they consume oil (which many people seem to think this isn't normal but it is), so you do have some opportunity to renew the oil to a degree. the big engines also have a purification system, so with that in mind it probably isn't fair to compare it to oil in a smaller engine.

i look at TBN, viscosity, water/fuel content as well as particle count. we never really take it to a point where we are changing oil based on a report (unless there is a mechanical problem that led to a lot of fuel/water in the oil), which is the main reason for monitoring oil. it alerts you to a maintenance issue. you can tell if you have a coolant leak or an injector dumping fuel into the cylinder (which is somewhat common on these larger engines). i have one engine out here that has 800 hours on it (roughly 30,000 miles), which is very low for an industrial engine and we have changed out a cam section, cylinder liner, rings and head on one of the cylinders (each cylinder has an individual head), due to a coolant leak that was discovered through oil analysis.

the guys that run diesel pickup trucks are very much into sampling. you might want to check out thedeiselstop.com for discussion on this topic in a related application.

we use a company in houston called Analysts Inc. it is pretty slick, they send you a bottle with a prepaid shipping box, and email you a report when it is finished. i honestly don't know the cost of each sample, but off the top of my head i would say it is about $25. i have put a copy of one of the reports in an album in my profile.

i have never sampled on any vehicle i drive. having said that it would be interesting to take a couple of samples along the life of the oil, if nothing else out of curiosity's sake.

maybe i will contact the girl we deal with at that outfit and see what they would charge to do it.

 

[Poopsicle]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

3k-5k oil change interval are not a scam, rather a habit. I hear people tell me all the time is thats what they have always done with there cars.

7500 miles is well within the normal range. Most oil change interval are determine by the number of start and not by the number of miles. Case in point. Most meters on new cars will allow you to put 7500 or even 8k on the odometer if you do all highway driving. You may only get 2500 miles out of a oil change if you have lots of short trip 5 miles or less. My Acura TL has done just that. I hope the Genesis oil change interval meter does just the same.

I would recommend in any case to either bring your car back to the dealer for service, buy your favorite syn and bring it with you to the dealer or fine a shop like a (Pennzoil Lube shop) and take it there for your changes. I been using the same outside shop for oil changes for almost 20 years. I have two cars that are 12 years old and they have a record of my very first oil change on both.

3,000 miles oil changes are a scam that turned into paranoia.....

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[DanTheMan]

Re: Oil Change On 4.6V8

maybe i will contact the girl we deal with at that outfit and see what they would charge to do it.

Zed--

Thanks for the info...I found the report very interesting. I haven't had any testing done on any car I've driven for a number of years--mostly due to access to the testing analyzer (after I left that company...CSI..now part of Emerson), and relatively cheap cost of an oil change. When I did it, I did find the info useful at the time. I ran Castrol product in a Toyota 2 dr Corolla that had upwards of 200K miles on it. When compared to a new sample for baseline comparison, it showed very minor wear to the engine parts (mostly rings, crank, etc.) and also that the additives in the oil were breaking down. That was when it was in need of another oil change!

Thanks again for all the great info and your time to spell it out. If you decide to have a sample analyzed from your Gen, that also would be great to see--especially after it's had a few thousand miles on it.

Happy New Year!

Dan

 

[bbk]

To MANRETIRED: the oil drain plug is located near the center of the front underbody shroud. It was nice of Hyundai to allow the plug to actually penetrate the shroud; this allows easy access from the front of the vehicle. On some car models (including Hyundai's Sonata), the carmaker chose simply to provide a hole in the shroud through which you must reach to access the drain plug. The oil filter is often accessed the same way. Needless to say, it can be a bit messy. Back to your original question, I've yet to find the actual location of the Tau's oil filter. Has anyone on this forum actually laid an eyeball on the oil filter? I can't even find its location using the Genesis' online service manual. I, too, would really like to know where it is.

 

[Calvin]

I agree with "bbk", it is nice to have the drain plug close to the shroud openning and angled in such a way that it looks like the oil will not shoot behind the shroud. I am still looking for the filter, dam if I can find it without pulling covers and shrouds. I'm hoping it might be accesible form the top, maybe under the large cover on the engine top. Ive looked from the sides but it sure dosn't seem to be topside.

 

[DesertGen]

The oil filter is on the underside of the engine per attached image.

 

[bbk]

Thanks, DesertGen. It was in the online manual after all! Even now (knowing where to look) I still can't see it from topside. Guess I'm going to have to crawl under this beast to see it. I'm not having a good feeling about this; my recollection is that there's nothing but shroud visible down there. I'm really hoping that underbody shroud removal is not part of routine oil changes.

 

[DesertGen]

I think we are gonna have to jack it up to find it. I got on my knees and all I can see is shrouding.

 

[Calvin]

I agree, but it isn't looking so good! I just took a look under there and it looks like the shroud will have to come off. Lets hope its only a couple of bolts. This just may be the first car I've owned that the dealership will be changing the oil. It will be a pain lugging in the Mobil 1.

 

[ctrcbob]

A few words here.

1. Everything you ever wanted to know about oil is in www.bobistheoilguy.com

2. I use Full Group IV Synthetics (Group V when I can find it at a decent price). With this Genesis, as long as it is in Warranty, I will use either 5W-20 (I have a case of Pennsoil Platinum from before they switched back to Group III) or Mobil-1 5W-20 or
5W-30 or 10W30. On my Continental, I use Mobil-1 0W-40. This is the oil that meets the Mercedes 229.5 specs, and if its good enough for Mercedes, its good enough for me.
I change oil in my Continental at 10,000 miles intervals. On this Genesis, I will change it every 7,500 miles as long as it's in warranty.

3. Oil change intervals. I go to Europe every three or four years, and I aways lease a Renault Laguna. The Owners Manual states (in French) that you must change every 30,000 kilometers. OK, I punch in my calculator and find thats 18750 miles. Is it because they have better engines? No, its because they always use Full Synthetics that will go the 30,000 kilometers. If everyone in this country used Full Synthetics, manufactures would also say to change every 18750 miles. BTW, in Europe, to be called Synthetic, it had better be a real synthetic, (PAO, Ester, etc) and not what most companies in the USA call synthetic (Group III "synthetics" are regular oils that have been Super Refined and Hydrocracked, and allowed to be called Synthetic in this country - much better than a regular oil, but still not as good as a Group IV or Group V)

4. Lastly, Synthetics don't really "lubricate" better than regular oils. The great thing about synthetics is that they can take higher heat better, without cooking off and sludging. This is important to those of us in very hot climates. The other great thing is that they flow and pour at very low temperatures, like what guys are getting up North right now.

 

[Mark_888]

2. I use Full Group IV Synthetics (Group V when I can find it at a decent price). With this Genesis, as long as it is in Warranty, I will use either 5W-20 (I have a case of Pennsoil Platinum from before they switched back to Group III) or Mobil-1 5W-20 or
5W-30 or 10W30. On my Continental, I use Mobil-1 0W-40. This is the oil that meets the Mercedes 229.5 specs, and if its good enough for Mercedes, its good enough for me.

Some people are saying that ever since Mobil lost the lawsuit against Castrol (that allowed Castrol Syntec to be called synthetic even though it is hydorcraked) that Mobil 1 is also now a hydrocracked formula in order for them to be price competitive. Even the Mobil 1 website FAQ seems to dodge the question by claiming that their formula is proprietary and they will not discuss whether it uses PAO stock.

Also, it looks like Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil at least contains mostly PAO stock, but is not an energy conserving formula so it does not meet warranty specifications for most cars.

What is your opinion on this?

Also, what other Group IV or V oils are available in the US that meet the energy saving and all other warranty specifications?

BTW, since you will be following the 7500 mile oil change interval while your car is under warranty, that means 10 years.

One more question. When is the best time to switch over to synthetic? I usually wait at least 3000 miles to allow the cylinder rings to seat properly with the factory fill conventional oil.

 

[Tufast]

Bottom Line: Factory non-synthetic oil change every 3,000-3,750 miles & if you switched to synthetic every 7,500 miles, if you don't want problems with engine sludging & your warranty coverage. Although, I admit that every 10,000 on synthetic should be no problem, just want to play it safe with your warranty.

Recommended interval for oil change according to owner's manual; has 2 scheduled intervals: 1) for normal driving conditions - every 7,500 mi & 2) for severe driving conditions - every 3,000 mi, although Hyundai will let you go up to 3,750 mi.

Qualifications for severe driving conditions:
1) repeated driving of short distances of 5 mi or less in normal temperatures or less than 10 mi is freezing temperatures
2) extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
3) driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads
4) driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
5) driving in sandy areas
6) driving in heavy traffic area over 90 degrees fareinheit
7) driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
8) towing a trailer, using a camper, or roof rack
9) driving as a patrol car, taxi, or other commercial use
10) driving over 106mph
11) frequently driving in stop & go conditions

This means severe driving conditions include in town driving, dirt road driving, up-north salt road driving, coastal beach area driving, hot southern or south western driving, mountainous driving, taking trips w/excessive luggage or something in tow, commercial driving/delivering, high speed +100mph driving.

I italicized the above to show you this qualifies 99% of us in one way or another to have our Hyundai's oil changed every 3,750 at most. Unless you are using synthetic oil, which the car does not original come with. If you switch to synthetic, then 7,500 mi intervals should be no problem. If you can not show that you have your oil changed during the correct intervals & engine sludging occurs with your vehicle, Hyundai will not warranty your engine. So, take my advice & change your oil no more than every 4,000 miles.

This is quoted directly from your owners manual on pg 7-11 under severe driving conditions.

How do I know this & why am I advising you? Because I'm a service advisor for a Hyundai dealership & have been for over 10yrs. I'm well versed in Hyundai's warranty & have seen many claims declined due to this exact problem (engine sludging). Engine sludging occurs one way, engine oil break down & that usually occurs from not doing your oil changes close enough together.

I don't want to see any of you have problems with your car or your warranty. You spent alot of money on the initial purchase of a really nice vehicle, take care of it & do the oil changes at regular intervals. They are not really all that expensive when viewed in the grand scheme of things.

P.S. Mark 888, you can switch to synthetic on your 1st oil change interval at 3,000 miles after break in.
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