Oil Change On 4.6 V8

[Mark_888]

What is the best way to document an oil change performed by an owner? I used Mobil 1 in my previous car (with excellent results) but I always used a small oil change place where I could see what they put in the crankcase. At a dealer, I get nervous because even if I ask for Mobil 1, I cannot be sure they will use it unless I am able to watch them put it in. I am not suggesting that they would switch deliberately, but I think it would be very easy for them to overlook the customer preference.

Also, how good is the Hyundai oil filter? I don't suppose that there are any aftermarket ones that fit the Genesis? I previously used a Mobil 1 (or other high-end model) filter with a mostly synthetic filter material and metal end caps.

 

[Mark_888]

On my previous car I used the trip odometer to indicate when I last changed my oil, and I used that as the default view so I always knew how many miles I have driven since the last oil change. But on the Genesis, the trip odometer only goes up to 999.9 miles according to the User Manual. Bummer.

 

[Tufast]

What is the best way to document an oil change performed by an owner? I used Mobil 1 in my previous car (with excellent results) but I always used a small oil change place where I could see what they put in the crankcase. At a dealer, I get nervous because even if I ask for Mobil 1, I cannot be sure they will use it unless I am able to watch them put it in. I am not suggesting that they would switch deliberately, but I think it would be very easy for them to overlook the customer preference.

Also, how good is the Hyundai oil filter? I don't suppose that there are any aftermarket ones that fit the Genesis? I previously used a Mobil 1 (or other high-end model) filter with a mostly synthetic filter material and metal end caps.

Mark, the best way to document an oil change is have it done at the dealership svc dept. Then it's on computer file, on hard file, & you retain a copy. If a problem arrises, you don't have to bring in your records, have them faxxed into the DPSM & wait for authorization. They just fix it.

If you do the svc yourself or have it done elsewhere, keep receipts from the purchase of parts or the receipt from where you had it done. Nothing wrong w/Mobile 1, I recommend Mobile 1 synthetic above all other oils (if using synthetic U can do oil changes every 7,500mi, but keep receipts showing use of synthetic)

Mark, 1st get to know the dealer svc dept you are considering because it's about the people as much as it is the fact it's a dealer. If you get a feeling of initial trust, bring your own fluid if you like & that way you know what's getting put in. You're not allowed in the shop, but you can stand outside the bay doors where your car is being worked on & see if they are using the fluid you supplied.

The best filter to use will be the dealer supplied filter IMO since it's designed for the car & is of high quality. Hyundai has to warranty this engine 10/100, I don't think they want to use poor quality filters, fluids, etc. Plus, if you are having your oil changes done elsewhere, you show by Hyundai receipt that you have been buying Hyundai filters at the correct intervals.

P.S. Mark, I would test that tripometer & just see how high it goes in case the manual is a misprint - wouldn't hurt.

 

[Mark_888]

Plus, if you are having your oil changes done elsewhere, you show by Hyundai receipt that you have been buying Hyundai filters at the correct intervals.

I probably wasn't clear when I said I might want to do oil changes myself. If I have an oil change done at any commercial establishment, then I have a receipt and no problem. But with the unusual Genesis oil filter, the only reasonable options are the dealer or myself (I mean me, not an oil change place). I am not thrilled about dealer oil changes for the reasons I already mentioned, and also the fact that the dealer is 25 miles away.

If I do oil changes myself on my Genesis (I have done it before on other cars), then I probably won't purchase filters or oil for just one change at a time, making the documentation a little more tricky.

Actually, with the Genesis oil filter, it looks like it is easier for a do-it-yourselfer without making a big mess compared to some other cars I have owned.

 

[ctrcbob]

Some people are saying that ever since Mobil lost the lawsuit against Castrol (that allowed Castrol Syntec to be called synthetic even though it is hydorcraked) that Mobil 1 is also now a hydrocracked formula in order for them to be price competitive. Even the Mobil 1 website FAQ seems to dodge the question by claiming that their formula is proprietary and they will not discuss whether it uses PAO stock.

Also, it looks like Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil at least contains mostly PAO stock, but is not an energy conserving formula so it does not meet warranty specifications for most cars.

What is your opinion on this?

Also, what other Group IV or V oils are available in the US that meet the energy saving and all other warranty specifications?

True about Mobil and the lawsuit against Castrol. All Castrol Syntec EXCEPT the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is group III Hydrocracked. The Castrol Syntec
0W-30 which is Made In Germany (printed in very small print on the back of the bottle) is the only Syntec that is Group IV PAO. I've used it and it is a great oil. Only available from Auto Zone as far as I know. (If it does not say Made In Germany on the back, it is very old stock and should not be used).

Don't know (or care) about the "Energy Saving" designation. As for the Warranty, my Continental is long out of warranty. Mobil 1 0W-40.

For my Genesis, I will use the correct weight oils, even if I have to use a Group III Hydrocracked oil. I still have one case of Penzoil Platinum 5W-20 that was made just before Penzoil switched from Group IV PAO to Group III Hydrocracked. I will use the best I can find for the Genesis to keep the warranty good, be it Mobil-1, Penzoil Platinum, etc. as long as it is one of the correct weights.

 

[Mark_888]

P.S. Mark, I would test that tripometer & just see how high it goes in case the manual is a misprint - wouldn't hurt.

Just checked my car and trip odo only goes up to 999.9 as the manual says.

I guess South Korea is less than 1000 miles from top to botton and no one is going to drive into North Korea.

 

[clakowicz@comcast.net]

the oil filter in on the bottom right side of the engine. the shrould covering the filter has several bolts and one screw holding it on. Once off you have full access. The 3.8 has the filter on the back top of the engine hidden by the removable top cover.

 

[DeMAN]

The oil filter is on the underside of the engine per attached image.

Is that the oil filter? no screw on type?

 

[DeMAN]

I'm glad to see so many, put so much in the type of of synthetic they use.

Almost all synthetic made now meet all the requirements for all cars operated in the US. Lots of things are now being done with hydrocracked oils that will if not already meeting german spec synthetic. Oils will always be made for the masses and not the few. Lots of chemical plant operation are being idle or severely cut back where it not cost efficient to make higher quality synthetics.

CHANGE YOUR OIL ON THE REQUIRED INTERVALS AND YOU WILL BE FINE.

Hopefully the Genesis is equipped with an oil life meter that starts to warn you when you are within 10% on needing an oil change.

 

[Mark_888]

Is that the oil filter? no screw on type?

The filter is a cartridge type. You unscrew the plastic housing.

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[DeMAN]

Bottom Line: Factory non-synthetic oil change every 3,000-3,750 miles & if you switched to synthetic every 7,500 miles, if you don't want problems with engine sludging & your warranty coverage. Although, I admit that every 10,000 on synthetic should be no problem, just want to play it safe with your warranty.

Recommended interval for oil change according to owner's manual; has 2 scheduled intervals: 1) for normal driving conditions - every 7,500 mi & 2) for severe driving conditions - every 3,000 mi, although Hyundai will let you go up to 3,750 mi.

Qualifications for severe driving conditions:
1) repeated driving of short distances of 5 mi or less in normal temperatures or less than 10 mi is freezing temperatures
2) extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
3) driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads
4) driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
5) driving in sandy areas
6) driving in heavy traffic area over 90 degrees fareinheit
7) driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
8) towing a trailer, using a camper, or roof rack
9) driving as a patrol car, taxi, or other commercial use
10) driving over 106mph
11) frequently driving in stop & go conditions

This means severe driving conditions include in town driving, dirt road driving, up-north salt road driving, coastal beach area driving, hot southern or south western driving, mountainous driving, taking trips w/excessive luggage or something in tow, commercial driving/delivering, high speed +100mph driving.

I italicized the above to show you this qualifies 99% of us in one way or another to have our Hyundai's oil changed every 3,750 at most. Unless you are using synthetic oil, which the car does not original come with. If you switch to synthetic, then 7,500 mi intervals should be no problem. If you can not show that you have your oil changed during the correct intervals & engine sludging occurs with your vehicle, Hyundai will not warranty your engine. So, take my advice & change your oil no more than every 4,000 miles.

This is quoted directly from your owners manual on pg 7-11 under severe driving conditions.

How do I know this & why am I advising you? Because I'm a service advisor for a Hyundai dealership & have been for over 10yrs. I'm well versed in Hyundai's warranty & have seen many claims declined due to this exact problem (engine sludging). Engine sludging occurs one way, engine oil break down & that usually occurs from not doing your oil changes close enough together.

I don't want to see any of you have problems with your car or your warranty. You spent alot of money on the initial purchase of a really nice vehicle, take care of it & do the oil changes at regular intervals. They are not really all that expensive when viewed in the grand scheme of things.

P.S. Mark 888, you can switch to synthetic on your 1st oil change interval at 3,000 miles after break in.
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I don't mean to be anal here but this is bullshit if todays engines can't go 7500 miles intervals. Honda or rather Acura has a oil life meter for those instances that indicates approx. when the oil should be changed.

Most oils made today even dino oil (refined oil) is light years ahead of what they were just 5 years ago. Tighter emission specs made oil refiner raise the qualities of there lubricants for motor oils.

Case in point. We normally take vacations with a loaded car after having the oil changed. We are normally closer to 7.5k miles oil life meter on those intervals mountains are mixed in on those travels. That same car was used to basically drive about 15 miles round trip unloaded and the oil life meter went off at 2500 miles. Hopefully Hyundai has such an indication if they are so anal about the mileage. This would take the guess work out for the avg driver. My 97 Grand prix also has one of these meters

 

[Car Guy Texas]

Hi,
I am a new owner of a 2011 Genesis sedan with a 4.6. I plan to change my own oil and have bought several of the Hyundai filter elements. I was wondering if anyone knows what size wrench/socket you need to remove the filter housing. The dealer where I bought the parts thought it was 27 MM but wasn't sure.
Thanks..CG TX

 

[Gurkha]

The dealer where I bought the parts thought it was 27 MM but wasn't sure.

As far as I know 27 mm is correct. Should be the same for both engines.

 

[Car Guy Texas]

Thanks...Ill get a 27 MM socket and check it out!
CG TX

 

[bu341wm]

I have always changed the oil and filters on the vehicles i have owned. The hardest part of changing the oil and filter @ home is jacking up the car. Please refer to the Online Manual for jacking points. When the bottom shield is removed you can check out the engineering wonder you own! I traded in a Cadillac with the Northstar. I believe Hyundai has a better design. I get my South Korean "Wix" filters from Rock Auto. I haven't any doubt in my former ASE Master Tech mind that the Wix is the same specs as the factory supplied. I have had my 4.6 for 5 months but have less than 2000 miles on it. Lots of short trips! I have found out the hard way that you can't base the oil change interval on miles alone. I didn't change the oil in my show Studebaker truck for a couple of years because it had only gone 200 miles. Results Lots of sludge! Remember to torque the filter housing to 18.4 lb-ft and the drain plug to 32.5 lb-ft. Over torquing is very expensive!

 

[homeofstone]

Note to remember: The car should be near level in order for all the old oil to drain out. Ramps are not a good idea for the Genesis.

 

[Mark_888]

Thanks...Ill get a 27 MM socket and check it out!
CG TX

Yes, 27 mm is correct. I could only find a 1/2 inch 27 mm socket and I only have 3/8 inch wrenches, so I just got a 3/8 to 1/2 converter along with it. If I recall, I got the 27 mm socket at an auto-parts store like Advance Auto Parts for about $5.00 (cost a lot more at Sears).

 

[mike1947]

What do you prefer Synthetic or regular oil for the 4.6 engine?

 

[RODDGENNY]

Synthetic all the way. That is all I run in my vehicles now. A bit more expensive, but well worth it.

 

[Mark78]

Sythentic will payoff in the long run. Plus the cost difference is not that much.