Oil Change Warning

[cleex024]

All the filter cartridge type oil filters should be tightened by hand anyway so all those that think you need to torque it can rest assured by just tightening it by hand...I promise it will not fall off our leak and all you have to do next time is take it off by hand

 

[xsolara]

All the filter cartridge type oil filters should be tightened by hand anyway so all those that think you need to torque it can rest assured by just tightening it by hand...I promise it will not fall off our leak and all you have to do next time is take it off by hand

Nope... these cannot simply be hand tightened....it is a housing that the filter fits in.... your right if it was a canister type filter that screw into the block.

 

[kn5owa]

Nope... these cannot simply be hand tightened....it is a housing that the filter fits in.... your right if it was a canister type filter that screw into the block.

Filters that "screw into the block", would be more properly referred to as "spin-on filters".

Cartridge filters - much beloved by Hyundai - actually are not really cartridge configurations at all. They are bare-bones paper & plastic devices. They fit into a filter housing with a filter cap. They are called cartridge filters, nevertheless.

Neither configuration requires a torque wrench. And, anyone with hands on experience knows there is no space to work with a torque wrench, anyway. Nor is there any reason to use a torque wrench.

Spin on filters may be hand tightened, plus a couple of Lb/Ft of torque, as desired. With so-called "cartridge filters", the filter cap should be rotated until completely torqued down - just like a bottle cap.

The really important thing is: Spin-on filters should have the gasket lubricated before installation. Likewise, the O-rings on the filter cap with cartridge filters should be lubricated before installation.

 

[ntx_v8]

Filters that "screw into the block", would be more properly referred to as "spin-on filters".

Cartridge filters - much beloved by Hyundai - actually are not really cartridge configurations at all. They are bare-bones paper & plastic devices. They fit into a filter housing with a filter cap. They are called cartridge filters, nevertheless.

Neither configuration requires a torque wrench. And, anyone with hands on experience knows there is no space to work with a torque wrench, anyway. Nor is there any reason to use a torque wrench.

Spin on filters may be hand tightened, plus a couple of Lb/Ft of torque, as desired. With so-called "cartridge filters", the filter cap should be rotated until completely torqued down - just like a bottle cap.

The really important thing is: Spin-on filters should have the gasket lubricated before installation. Likewise, the O-rings on the filter cap with cartridge filters should be lubricated before installation.

+1

 

[waz]

I cannot see how they can do it at that price, even for dino oil, Filter is $9 which leaves $16 and then almost 9 quarts of oil at $2 a quart comes to $27 total which is $2 more than they charge you?. If I could get it done at the dealership for that amount I still would not let them touch my car. There is the question of them not taking the time to put the panels in properly which will lead to other complications. The Stealership here in Canada charges $120 for a Dino oil change, cost is not the issue. Wasted time and poor workmanship is.

I buy my own oil ($22.88 for Mobile One at Walmart) and OEM filter online ($8.78) and the dealer charges $9.50 for the labor. So a little over $40 total for a full synthetic oil change. And they get it done in less than an hour, which gives me time to take a test drive

And if you don't trust a dealer to perform an oil change correctly, how do you trust them to do any warranty work?

I would expect that replacing a transmission would be slightly more difficult than an oil change, so would you do that yourself too because the dealer could screw it up? (I had to get a new tranny on my Coupe).

Just sayin'

 

[kn5owa]

And if you don't trust a dealer to perform an oil change correctly, how do you trust them to do any warranty work?

I don't.

 

[djohnk]

I just did the third oil change on the car. Just a heads up. The panel inserts (plastic ones) will become almost unusable once taken out so do pick up a bag of 100 or so on eBay and keep in your trunk. Black Plastic Rivets Fastener Fender Car Bumper Push Clip 12mm x 8mm 100 Pcs 711331430281 | eBay Secondly, the 10mm head bolts holding the balance of the panel in place tend to rust up/jam tight. I sheared off 4 of them and I was very careful. Dunked the remainder in grease and inserted those. Worked half the day drilling out an recapping the frozen ones. What a pita.

This has been mentioned before as the dealerships sort of do not put all of them back in because they are almost unusable as I mentioned. They will shear off the bolts just like I did but not tell you. Bottom line is you will lose your protective panel as the fasteners disappear magically after every oil change and the dealership will deny any fault.

Just a heads up on things to check after an oil change.

Ha ... I just changed the oil for the first time on my used 2015 genesis sedan. This exact same thing happened to me!! The previous owner (or dealerships, etc.) had sheared several screws ( additional ones also missing --- I'm surprised the panels didn't fly off when I was going down the road) , then I proceeded break a few screws off myself. Also many plastic fasteners and the two plastic knobs that go on the screw threads were also missing. Up by the air filter another plastic fastener was missing, and one of the metal snap springs that hold the air filter box together was missing. What a PITA. Definitely ordering some of those plastic thingies, thanks for the link and information, I guess I'm not the only one to go through this.

 

[milind]

I buy my own oil ($22.88 for Mobile One at Walmart) and OEM filter online ($8.78) and the dealer charges $9.50 for the labor. So a little over $40 total for a full synthetic oil change. And they get it done in less than an hour, which gives me time to take a test drive

And if you don't trust a dealer to perform an oil change correctly, how do you trust them to do any warranty work?

I would expect that replacing a transmission would be slightly more difficult than an oil change, so would you do that yourself too because the dealer could screw it up? (I had to get a new tranny on my Coupe).

Just sayin'

There seem to be a million of the Mobil One Oils in Walmart. Which is the best one? This one says it's guaranteed for 15,000 miles. Really? The dealer close to me is recommending oild change every 3500 miles. The manual seems to suggest 7500 miles. I was thinking of doing an oil change every 5000 miles.

Secondly, how many quarts does it take for the 3.8? Thanks.

 

[djohnk]

There seem to be a million of the Mobil One Oils in Walmart. Which is the best one? This one says it's guaranteed for 15,000 miles. Really? The dealer close to me is recommending oild change every 3500 miles. The manual seems to suggest 7500 miles. I was thinking of doing an oil change every 5000 miles.

Secondly, how many quarts does it take for the 3.8? Thanks.

I used the Walmart 5w30 regular Mobile 1 ... I know I'm going to change at least every 5000 miles, so no need for any of those fancy Mobile 1 options for me. Mine (3.8 2015 sedan) took one of those large containers (5 quarts) plus at least a quart more for about 6 quarts total, sorry can't be more specific ... didn't measure the extra amount (just poured it from an additional container).

 

[Mark_888]

There seem to be a million of the Mobil One Oils in Walmart. Which is the best one? This one says it's guaranteed for 15,000 miles. Really? The dealer close to me is recommending oild change every 3500 miles. The manual seems to suggest 7500 miles. I was thinking of doing an oil change every 5000 miles.

Secondly, how many quarts does it take for the 3.8? Thanks.

The owner's manual says 7.29 US qt for drain and fill. I would highly recommend that you use the OEM filter purchased at a dealer parts department, or OEM purchased online.

Since your engine is likely still under warranty (I assume), you must change your oil every 7500 miles or less, unless you drive under severe conditions most of the time. There is no way that a 3500 mile oil change interval is needed with Mobil 1 synthetic, unless you live and drive on desert sand all the time (and your oil is just dirty, even if not worn out).

I would recommend Mobil 1 5W-30, or Mobil 5W-30 EP, or Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE (Advanced Fuel Economy) for your V6 Genesis. All three of these are fine. You can read the Mobil 1 site to read about the differences. I personally use Mobil 5W-30 EP. Currently, Mobil 1 is offering rebates of $12 for each 5 quarts purchased. They honor Walmart receipts, even if Walmart is not listed as a rebate participating dealer. Google Mobil 1 rebate.

Do not use Mobil 1 High Mileage Oil unless you car is leaking or burning oil.

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[djohnk]

The owner's manual says 7.29 US qt for drain and fill. I would highly recommend that you use the OEM filter purchased at a dealer parts department, or OEM purchased online.

Since you engine is likely still under warranty (I assume), you must change your oil every 7500 miles or less, unless you drive under severe conditions most of the time.

I would recommend Mobil 1 5W-30, or Mobil 5W-30 EP, or Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE (Advanced Fuel Economy) for your V6 Genesis. All three of these are fine. You can read the Mobil 1 site to read about the differences. I personally use Mobil 5W-30 EP.

Thanks for the exact amount! I had to keep pouring, waiting, and rechecking the oil level until I got there.

 

[RossH1229]

I have an oil extractor and am considering doing my first oil change myself.

I can easily reach the oil filter from above. Has anyone tried this on a 3.8?

Wouldn't think its possible on a 2013 it looks like the filter housing is nearly touching the under engine cover.

 

[Scottish Guy]

Wouldn't think its possible on a 2013 it looks like the filter housing is nearly touching the under engine cover.

True, even if you could remove the filter without removing the under engine splash guard [ I think it's possible ] it's an awkward reach from above, long arms would be advisable.

 

[1FstYota]

True, even if you could remove the filter without removing the under engine splash guard [ I think it's possible ] it's an awkward reach from above, long arms would be advisable.

I've done this a few times, doesn't need really long arms per se, but you do want a narrow-angle 1/2in rachet for it to work quicker. Just use a plastic bowl or something to catch the oil.

 

[Scottish Guy]

I've done this a few times, doesn't need really long arms per se, but you do want a narrow-angle 1/2in rachet for it to work quicker. Just use a plastic bowl or something to catch the oil.

Without removing the splashguard ?
How do you remove the sump oil, drain it, or suck it out ?

 

[1FstYota]

Without removing the splashguard ?
How do you remove the sump oil, drain it, or suck it out ?

Been using a mighty vac oil pump. So basically I do my oil change without ever needing to remove anything except the oil filter housing.

The vac pump gets little over 7 quarts out, just shove the tube down the dipstick hole.

Also since I did the g80 sport conversion, I now have an oil filter housing access panel that came with the new front splash guard. So I can take out two bolts and pop off the small acess panel and do it that way as well.

 

[djohnk]

And if you don't trust a dealer to perform an oil change correctly, how do you trust them to do any warranty work?

I would expect that replacing a transmission would be slightly more difficult than an oil change

I definitely had problems with my local Hyundai dealership on an oil change! A few days after an oil change special I took advantage of, I found many missing fasteners (about 10) and it was so loose that the material around the fender well had rubbed on the tire and really messed it up! I don't know if they tried to re-use the old ones, put in incorrect new ones, or simply forgot to put some in. It pissed me off so much I never went back to that dealership, even to complain. I suspect they don't use the same mechanics for the transmission as the ones they do for the oil changes and car washes.

 

[2for1]

Yes, the oil changer does tires too. Usually hourly worker. 12 to 15 per hr. Tranny guy makin 30 plus. At least around here it is.

 

[sidewinder1]

i normally do my oil changes but dealer gave us a courtesy oil change when we purchased a brand new 11 buick enclave. went on a vacation day after oil change and started getting strange engine vibrations and hesitation after driving over 200mi. decided to check the dipstick on a hunch and it was overfilled to over 1.5" past the max mark. it was likely never drained then filled up. ever since, engine developed a low groan/vibration when accelerating at low rpm and still has it to this day. it also recently started consuming oil and although no way to prove it was caused by the oil incident i wouldn't doubt it. needless to say, i never let someone else change the oil even if it was free.

Engine oil overfilled

now on the genesis, took it into the dealer for warranty work where they had to take off the bottom covers but they never put it back. service advisor initially acted surprised something like that could happen and later they found it sitting in the corner at the shop had to make a 2nd trip to have it installed. if you have someone else change the oil, always check under the car to make sure the panel was installed. even then, you can't be sure it was fastened correctly. and check the oil level !