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Oil Change Warning

I have an oil extractor and am considering doing my first oil change myself.

I can easily reach the oil filter from above. Has anyone tried this on a 3.8?

Mark 888 is your man
 
I have an oil extractor and am considering doing my first oil change myself.

I can easily reach the oil filter from above. Has anyone tried this on a 3.8?
I have changed the filter from above. The first time I changed the oil and filter I put the car up on ramps and did the change, never again. I bought an oil extractor and did my second change that way. I was able to reach and remove the filter. The only issue I had was that I like to tighten everything according to torque specs and I was not able to get my torque wrench down in there and tighten it. I watched it for leakage and it is fine. I am coming up on another change and due to not being able to get the torque wrench on it, and that you only need to take one panel off, I may put it on the ramps again just to get to the filter.
 
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Having enjoyed the ease of changing oil on the G1 Genesis (it had a cutout for the drain plug and a top-mounted filter), I am wondering if there is an easier and cheaper alternative (not involving the purchase of an oil extractor) to removing two large access panels. Would it be possible to cut out a small square under the drain and filter for access and covering these openings with aluminum covers held by captive clips and s/s sheet metal screws. Removing two small covers and, perhaps, eight screws seems preferable to those two large covers and two dozen fragile plastic fasteners. Two 9" square cutouts (with covers) would be adequate to access filter and drain plug.
 
I have an oil extractor and am considering doing my first oil change myself.

I can easily reach the oil filter from above. Has anyone tried this on a 3.8?
I have used an oil extractor on a 2009 V6. The oil filter is on top of the engine block for the 2009-2011 model years.

The first time I used an oil extractor (on another car, about 15 years ago) it was a hand pump type, and did not work out well in getting all the oil out. I later switched to MityVac MV7300 which requires an air compressor (even the smallest size will do) and that works fine. Gets more oil out than with a drain if I move the tube around a bit in the dipstick to make sure I got it all.
 
Whether one uses an oil extractor or not, does not solve the issue of changing the oil filter on the G2 Genesis V6. If one has to raise the car to gain access to the filter than what's gained from an oil extractor? And once the car is raised, draining the oil by the conventional method requires only removal of the drain plug.

My issue with the G2 Genesis in the omission of access ports in the under pan as was done in the G1 series. Is this intentional so that one ends up going to the dealer for (what used to be) routine maintenance? It's my wish to return to the dealer for warranty work only unless one enjoys self-inflicted problems.
 
Whether one uses an oil extractor or not, does not solve the issue of changing the oil filter on the G2 Genesis V6. If one has to raise the car to gain access to the filter than what's gained from an oil extractor?
Several people have explained that the oil filter on the G2 Genesis V6 can be reached from above, as there is enough room between the engine and the radiator to reach down to the filter. You will want to put some kind of pan underneath the filter it to avoid a mess (like an aluminum foil cooking pan).

If you are concerned about using a torque wrench, I would not worry about it. The canister cover is plastic, and not that sensitive to exact torque, just don't over-tighten it. I would be money that most Hyundai techs don't use a torque wrench on the oil filter cover.
 
Having enjoyed the ease of changing oil on the G1 Genesis (it had a cutout for the drain plug and a top-mounted filter), I am wondering if there is an easier and cheaper alternative (not involving the purchase of an oil extractor) to removing two large access panels. Would it be possible to cut out a small square under the drain and filter for access and covering these openings with aluminum covers held by captive clips and s/s sheet metal screws. Removing two small covers and, perhaps, eight screws seems preferable to those two large covers and two dozen fragile plastic fasteners. Two 9" square cutouts (with covers) would be adequate to access filter and drain plug.

I'm sure this will work. I have been thinking about doing that, but haven't gotten around to actually designing and fabbing a cover (so no cut-out yet).

Now that I think some more, duct tape---or duct tape plus the cut-out piece---will work fine. If it falls off, you have added a little bit of drag, until you retape at the next oil change.
 
what the ? it's 25 bucks at the dealer ship man. and it gets electronically logged into your carfax vehicle history report.

why would u waste an hour of your time, 25 bucks of labor. You surely are worth more than 25 bucks an hour right ?
 
No dealership in my area will do a synthetic oil change for $25.00 and a trip to and from the dealer, plus the typical wait time, is rarely accomplished in an hour. Moreover, it's good to know that one's car has all its parts after the oil change. Lastly, I am retired, so my time is plentiful and virtually free.
 
what the ? it's 25 bucks at the dealer ship man. and it gets electronically logged into your carfax vehicle history report.

why would u waste an hour of your time, 25 bucks of labor. You surely are worth more than 25 bucks an hour right ?
Yes, if they did it correctly. The one and only time I let a Hyundai dealer change the oil, they used the wrong oil, and overfilled the crankcase.

I have read too many horror stories about dealer oil changes.
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what the ? it's 25 bucks at the dealer ship man. and it gets electronically logged into your carfax vehicle history report.

why would u waste an hour of your time, 25 bucks of labor. You surely are worth more than 25 bucks an hour right ?

I cannot see how they can do it at that price, even for dino oil, Filter is $9 which leaves $16 and then almost 9 quarts of oil at $2 a quart comes to $27 total which is $2 more than they charge you?. If I could get it done at the dealership for that amount I still would not let them touch my car. There is the question of them not taking the time to put the panels in properly which will lead to other complications. The Stealership here in Canada charges $120 for a Dino oil change, cost is not the issue. Wasted time and poor workmanship is.;)
 
Midnightsun, my point exactly about trips to dealerships.
 
... I have read too many horror stories about dealer oil changes.

Dealerships in FL never check the level after filling, and they almost always over-torque the drain plug and filter. My son was too busy to change the oil on his Optima and had the KIA dealership do it. Sure enough, the drain plug was torqued to about 50 ft-lb rather than the specified 29 ft-lb, and the threads on the plug and/or oil pan are now buggered up.

I do my own changes (taking off the panels) even though my dealership offers free oil changes for life. New cars are so reliable that I suspect hasty mechanics are now the main cause of mechanical problems.
 
One of the main reasons I do my own oil changes is:

The G2 V8 takes 8.5 qts. Since I use Mobil Synthetic - I want to see that the engine gets that product.

And:

The Hyundai oil/filter change procedure on this car is such that a sloppy, disinterested mechanic has plenty of opportunities for screw-ups.

1. People have already mentioned the two panels with their many, and varied fasteners.

2. Two O-rings have to be oiled and properly installed.

3. The drain plug has to be properly torqued with a new "crush" washer installed. Very easy to get a slow leak here. And with those panels, you may not see it for a long while.

4. On this particular car (we are talking about the G2 V8 here), the rather puny "cartridge filter" has to be properly aligned between two separate supporting posts before tightening the filter cap. There is a separate thread on the forum about "crushed" filters due to improper alignment of the filter. By way of comparison, my Sonata filter is supported throughout with a central spindle. Can't mis-align that puppy.

Lastly, I am not saying that the procedure is complex, or requires a rocket scientist. Only that it requires a degree of care not routinely encountered, nowadays.
 
Lastly, I am not saying that the procedure is complex, or requires a rocket scientist. Only that it requires a degree of care not routinely encountered, nowadays.

+2
 
Being a DFW Genesis owner, I'm looking for feedback on whether Huffhines in Plano can be trusted for an oil change. Since I use my car for business, I want the mileage recorded on CarFax or some other sort of document.
 
Being a DFW Genesis owner, I'm looking for feedback on whether Huffhines in Plano can be trusted for an oil change. Since I use my car for business, I want the mileage recorded on CarFax or some other sort of document.

It's not like the dealer has anything to do with this, more like the interests of the mechanic himself. Bottom line is you simply never know.

The issue is there are so many connectors involved the mechanic is bound to misplace one. Secondly, the plastic splayed fasteners are really a pita to reinstall. That being said he cannot take forever to do a simple oil change on your car or he will be reprimanded or look incompetent. If he needs to replace a retainer the customer will be charged however we all know if you get charged for this you will question why and you will not like the answer. He also needs to go to the parts department and justify why he needs this part, again it is a new car so it makes little sense and he wants to avoid conflict.

Unfortunately Hyundai screwed up pretty bad on this simple maintenance issue.
 
I have changed the filter from above. The first time I changed the oil and filter I put the car up on ramps and did the change, never again. I bought an oil extractor and did my second change that way. I was able to reach and remove the filter. The only issue I had was that I like to tighten everything according to torque specs and I was not able to get my torque wrench down in there and tighten it. I watched it for leakage and it is fine. I am coming up on another change and due to not being able to get the torque wrench on it, and that you only need to take one panel off, I may put it on the ramps again just to get to the filter.

My exact same circumstance. Will do the next one by removing the front fairing.
 
what the ? it's 25 bucks at the dealer ship man. and it gets electronically logged into your carfax vehicle history report.

why would u waste an hour of your time, 25 bucks of labor. You surely are worth more than 25 bucks an hour right ?

Dealership charged me $52 last week for the oil change on my V6. I'll be going to a different dealer next time.
 
I'm sure this will work. I have been thinking about doing that, but haven't gotten around to actually designing and fabbing a cover (so no cut-out yet).

Now that I think some more, duct tape---or duct tape plus the cut-out piece---will work fine. If it falls off, you have added a little bit of drag, until you retape at the next oil change.
I have been thinking along exactly the same lines. But still haven't done it in my first 4 oil changes.
 
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