Oil Change Warning

[Midnightsun]

I just did the third oil change on the car. Just a heads up. The panel inserts (plastic ones) will become almost unusable once taken out so do pick up a bag of 100 or so on eBay and keep in your trunk. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Plast...ash=item566e964550:g:eVYAAOSw9N1Vi50O&vxp=mtr Secondly, the 10mm head bolts holding the balance of the panel in place tend to rust up/jam tight. I sheared off 4 of them and I was very careful. Dunked the remainder in grease and inserted those. Worked half the day drilling out an recapping the frozen ones. What a pita.

This has been mentioned before as the dealerships sort of do not put all of them back in because they are almost unusable as I mentioned. They will shear off the bolts just like I did but not tell you. Bottom line is you will lose your protective panel as the fasteners disappear magically after every oil change and the dealership will deny any fault.

Just a heads up on things to check after an oil change.

 

[kn5owa]

I just did the third oil change on the car. Just a heads up.

A little query:

The panels apparently are fastened with a combination of plastic push pins and 10 mm cap screws - am I correct on this?

Also, it looks like the panels have some sort of knobs for gripping purposes.

I'm about to do the same job on the same engine and need to know what sort of punishment I'm into.

 

[Mark_888]

Maybe the 10 mm cap screws should be replaced with stainless steel ones when the car is new? I guess that living in Canada, and driving on heavily salted streets in the winter, doesn't help.

 

[Midnightsun]

Yep, plastic push pins which are easily removed with a philips head screw driver and a bunch of bolts that take a 10mm socket to remove. The oil filter is a little weird in that it has a allen screw on the end which you remove to drain the oil. Once drained you can access the protruding hex and unscrew the filter housing. I suggest you grease up all the threads of the bolts or they will eventually seize up.

 

[kn5owa]

Yep, plastic push pins which are easily removed with a philips head screw driver and a bunch of bolts that take a 10mm socket to remove. The oil filter is a little weird in that it has a allen screw on the end which you remove to drain the oil. Once drained you can access the protruding hex and unscrew the filter housing. I suggest you grease up all the threads of the bolts or they will eventually seize up.

Thanks

 

[kn5owa]

Maybe the 10 mm cap screws should be replaced with stainless steel ones when the car is new? I guess that living in Canada, and driving on heavily salted streets in the winter, doesn't help.

Hyundai loves those 10 mm cap screws - pull 'em all out and the car would collapse in front of you. Same with my Sonata. The cars have 100's of them.

But, I've never stripped one - I use a nut driver with those little jobbies, precisely so I won't strip the things - also it's faster.

 

[PaFromFL]

Not all the cap screws are the same length.

 

[ntx_v8]

A little query:

The panels apparently are fastened with a combination of plastic push pins and 10 mm cap screws - am I correct on this?

Also, it looks like the panels have some sort of knobs for gripping purposes.

I'm about to do the same job on the same engine and need to know what sort of punishment I'm into.

For the 4.3, my photo write-up at http://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showthread.php?t=14921 shows the approximate complexity.

I am due for my 4th oil change this month, and will address what I have seen along the lines in the original post and in the other replies.

I haven't broken any push pins yet. I live in salt-free Dallas county, and don't have a problem with bolts freezing up in the holes.

I think the "knob" is a push nut to make the last-off/first-on fastener easy. It doesn't help me much yet.

I have broken off 2 of the push pin tabs from the bottom of the bumper from road (curb?) hazards. Fairings are still secure, but obviously not premium.

I don't remember 2 lengths of screws, but will try to check when I change the oil this month, and update (reply to) the link if I figure out which ones are supposed to be long.

 

[kn5owa]

For the 4.3, my photo write-up at http://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showthread.php?t=14921 shows the approximate complexity.

I am due for my 4th oil change this month, and will address what I have seen along the lines in the original post and in the other replies.

I haven't broken any push pins yet. I live in salt-free Dallas county, and don't have a problem with bolts freezing up in the holes.

I think the "knob" is a push nut to make the last-off/first-on fastener easy. It doesn't help me much yet.

I have broken off 2 of the push pin tabs from the bottom of the bumper from road (curb?) hazards. Fairings are still secure, but obviously not premium.

I don't remember 2 lengths of screws, but will try to check when I change the oil this month, and update (reply to) the link if I figure out which ones are supposed to be long.

I think your 3.8 is quite a bit different from the 5.0 V8. On the 5.0, everything is on the bottom and two rather large panels have to be removed before you can even think about an oil and filter change. Most people seem to be going to their dealers - with bad results - from what I'm hearing.

 

[Mark_888]

I think your 3.8 is quite a bit different from the 5.0 V8. On the 5.0, everything is on the bottom and two rather large panels have to be removed before you can even think about an oil and filter change. Most people seem to be going to their dealers - with bad results - from what I'm hearing.

Are we talking about 2 different generations? The first generation (G1) Genesis is quite a bit different in terms on panels underneath the car than the second (G2) generation (2015+). There is some difference between the 2015 V6 and 2015 V8, but not nearly as much difference as there is between the G1 and G2 models (regardless of engine).

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[Midnightsun]

For the 4.3, my photo write-up at http://genesisowners.com/hyundai-genesis-forum/showthread.php?t=14921 shows the approximate complexity.

I am due for my 4th oil change this month, and will address what I have seen along the lines in the original post and in the other replies.

I haven't broken any push pins yet. I live in salt-free Dallas county, and don't have a problem with bolts freezing up in the holes.

I think the "knob" is a push nut to make the last-off/first-on fastener easy. It doesn't help me much yet.

I have broken off 2 of the push pin tabs from the bottom of the bumper from road (curb?) hazards. Fairings are still secure, but obviously not premium.

I don't remember 2 lengths of screws, but will try to check when I change the oil this month, and update (reply to) the link if I figure out which ones are supposed to be long.

The plastic fasteners do not break, the ends are so splayed after removal, it is difficult to get them back in, sometimes next to impossible. As for the bolts, my intention was to tell everyone to put a dab of grease on the threads before re-insertion to prevent likely seize up in the future. Yes the future will be much closer in the northern climates but it will eventually happen even in Dallas

 

[Midnightsun]

I think your 3.8 is quite a bit different from the 5.0 V8. On the 5.0, everything is on the bottom and two rather large panels have to be removed before you can even think about an oil and filter change. Most people seem to be going to their dealers - with bad results - from what I'm hearing.

Yep, quite different however the 2 panels and their fasteners seems to be the same. The filter housing is not the same nor is the filter. Where you see the big 27mm hex on the end filter housing, there is a sealing allen head screw/washer on the V8 version. As mentioned, this gets removed first which allows the filter housing to drain. (you have to remove this first as the diameter of this screw is larger than the 27mm hex and without removal you cannot use the hex to remove the filter housing) Once drained you remove the housing.

FYI, in the Hyundai oil filter box, you get a new allen head drain screw complete with o-ring as well as a new o-ring to replace the one on the filter housing.

 

[kn5owa]

Nice to get some hands on information.

When I get around to doing the job, I'm gonna follow Mark's lead and use a Mity-Vac fluid pump to get the oil out. Saves removing the rear panel/drain plug.

This is the way Mercedes does it now. If it doesn't work, nothing gained, nothing lost.

 

[Midnightsun]

Nice to get some hands on information.

When I get around to doing the job, I'm gonna follow Mark's lead and use a Mity-Vac fluid pump to get the oil out. Saves removing the rear panel/drain plug.

This is the way Mercedes does it now. If it doesn't work, nothing gained, nothing lost.

I though about it but since you need to jack the car and remove a panel to get to the filter then might as well remove the second panel and drain the oil conventionally.

You are correct, on my Mercedes it is set up to suck the oil out through the extra large, specifically designed dipstick. The filter is right there under the hood standing straight up so no oil is spilled when you remove it. This is actually how they do it at the Mercedes dealership. Best system out there for ease of oil change for sure.

 

[amartz]

I think your 3.8 is quite a bit different from the 5.0 V8. On the 5.0, everything is on the bottom and two rather large panels have to be removed before you can even think about an oil and filter change. Most people seem to be going to their dealers - with bad results - from what I'm hearing.

Oh, I don't know about that. I've been pretty happy with both the dealers I've do oil changes. The one where I bought the car did TSB's without me asking, including the one about the brake fluid issues in the G1. When I did ask him about it, he said they already did it last oil change. I'm happy with that kind of service.

 

[Mark_888]

Oh, I don't know about that. I've been pretty happy with both the dealers I've do oil changes. The one where I bought the car did TSB's without me asking, including the one about the brake fluid issues in the G1. When I did ask him about it, he said they already did it last oil change. I'm happy with that kind of service.

The TSB for brake fluid change from DOT-3 to DOT-4 was Mandatory for any vehicle in the shop or in dealer inventory (new or used). I don't know about the other TSB's you had done (not all are mandatory).

 

[ntx_v8]

The plastic fasteners do not break, the ends are so splayed after removal, it is difficult to get them back in, sometimes next to impossible. As for the bolts, my intention was to tell everyone to put a dab of grease on the threads before re-insertion to prevent likely seize up in the future. Yes the future will be much closer in the northern climates but it will eventually happen even in Dallas

The ends do get splayed-thus slowing down re-install. At the price you found, it doesn't take much slowdown to pay for them---even at $0/hr. Or you can be just stubborn, like me, and wrestle the splayed ones.

I had decided to follow your anti-corrosion advice before I started, and found that about 1/5 were starting to show signs of rust when I took them out. Not a seizing problem for some time, but "it will eventually happen" is spot on. Hopefully, I can retard the corrosion enough for both me and the next owner.

I'm definitely getting faster at changing the oil.

 

[kn5owa]

Yep, quite different however the 2 panels and their fasteners seems to be the same. The filter housing is not the same nor is the filter. Where you see the big 27mm hex on the end filter housing, there is a sealing allen head screw/washer on the V8 version.

Not to beat this thing to death, but on the 5.0 V8, does the filter cap take a 27 mm or a 24 mm socket wrench?

I bought a spare filter cap (always prepared) and it takes a 24 mm socket drive.

 

[Midnightsun]

Not to beat this thing to death, but on the 5.0 V8, does the filter cap take a 27 mm or a 24 mm socket wrench?

I bought a spare filter cap (always prepared) and it takes a 24 mm socket drive.

Ooops, my bad, thanks for pointing this out. It is 24mm. (I did not remember the size and referred to the write up on the V6 which states it's a 27mm, must be another difference between the 2 models)

We have quite a few cars in our family and I service them all. This tool is priceless as it really fits all those plugs and even the Gen2 V8 filter housing. Got mine locally at Walmart. http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/universal-drain-plug-wrench/6000162309246

 

[opticsguy]

I have an oil extractor and am considering doing my first oil change myself.

I can easily reach the oil filter from above. Has anyone tried this on a 3.8?