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Oil Consumption in '12 R-Spec

Have any Equus owners with the Tau 5.0 V8 experienced high oil usage?

1200 miles since oil change and oil level is at top mark. Will keep eye on it.
 
It may be the operating temp gradient in cold start short driving.
Its a fact that oil temp lags engine temp. 0-20 5-30 oil viscosity is dynamic. If you never get the oil up to temp then you are essentially using 0-5 wt oil. Especially in colder months of the year. It seems this could be a factor. The 0-20 wt oil is used to get mpg up for the Feds.


Careful, a 0w or 5w oil at cool/cold oil temps is still a lot thicker than 30 weight oil is at operating temp.
 
careful?? Thickness. your terminology has nothing to do with oil consumption in the current discussion. O-5 wt oil has viscosity but not much on a cold start and that is the point. Straight 30 wt is what it is. Its viscosity is extreme on cold start. Thickness is what you get with slick 50, STP and Motor Honey. Much different than viscosity. :rolleyes:
 
careful?? Thickness. your terminology has nothing to do with oil consumption in the current discussion. O-5 wt oil has viscosity but not much on a cold start and that is the point. Straight 30 wt is what it is. Its viscosity is extreme on cold start. Thickness is what you get with slick 50, STP and Motor Honey. Much different than viscosity. :rolleyes:


OK, the viscosity of a 0w or 5w oil is much thicker at 40 degrees than 30 weight is at operating temperature.
 
Ok, Viscosity or the Wt of the oil is the rate of flow through a set diameter tube. 0-5 wt oil has very low viscosity at all temperatures above 20 deg F.
Conventional oils accomplish it with additives. Synthetic oil by its nature has low viscosity at low temp. As operating temp increases the viscosity increases with addition of additives. This counteracts the natural decline of viscosity in oil
as it heats up. My point has nothing to do with the thickness of 30 Wt oil at operating temperature. My point your missing, is 0-5 Wt oil is always low viscosity and unless you activate the additives with increased temperature the oil remains at low viscosity. This could result in oil consumption if this represents a significant % of operation. So, thickness is not viscosity as relates to 0-5 Wt oil .
 
Ok, Viscosity or the Wt of the oil is the rate of flow through a set diameter tube. 0-5 wt oil has very low viscosity at all temperatures above 20 deg F.
Conventional oils accomplish it with additives. Synthetic oil by its nature has low viscosity at low temp. As operating temp increases the viscosity increases with addition of additives. This counteracts the natural decline of viscosity in oil
as it heats up. My point has nothing to do with the thickness of 30 Wt oil at operating temperature. My point your missing, is 0-5 Wt oil is always low viscosity and unless you activate the additives with increased temperature the oil remains at low viscosity. This could result in oil consumption if this represents a significant % of operation. So, thickness is not viscosity as relates to 0-5 Wt oil .


You do not understand synthetic oils or perhaps oils very well. Additives do not cause synthetic oils to provide multiple viscosity ranges at different temps, but rather the shape of the synthesized oil molecule.

A synthetic 0w-30 oil is as thick at operating temperature as a dino 30wt oil and would not affect oil consumption.
 
you might do some research. you will find you don't know you don't know
 
What all of the arguing over viscosity? If it's listed as an authorized oil in the owner's manual, then use it. If not, then don't.
 
you might do some research. you will find you don't know you don't know


Oh, but I do know. Here is a chart of viscosities for two Mobil 1 oils.


Temp------5w-30------15w-50

-20----------6284--------21,852
0------------2129---------6462
25------------697---------1836
32------------531---------1348
50------------281----------657
100------------71----------138
150------------27-----------46
175------------18-----------30
200------------13-----------20
225------------10-----------15
250-------------7.6---------11.1


Please note that the viscosity of the 5w-30 oil is much thicker (more viscus) at 50 degrees (or even 100 degrees) than it is at 175 degrees. Thus, if a car was using oil (with a 5w-30 oil) at cooler temps, it sure would also use oil once warmed up.
 
Re: Oil Consumption in 2013 5.0

I just came back from the dealer after hearing his BS.
I have a 2013 Genesis 5.0 10500 miles
According to the manual they recommend oil change every 7.5K my dealer say 5K and recommends 3.75K.
I had a weird noise like a diesel engine when the gears are shifting, the diagnosis from the dealer there was a misfire on cylinder 2, the transmission oil was low one quartz and engine oil below dipstick gummed up and milky.

I questioned it and they told me the misfire was caused because of low transmission oil (I think this is BS). they topped off all oils and problem went away.
I also see the bumper quite black around a large area near the exhaust. I guess I am also stuck with a oil burner... but I am quite angry with the BS, and what if I had bought the HPP with service that will only cover oil change every 7.5K.
I am still researching on what I can do next. or If I am screwed with this oil burning engine.

Kim
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milky brown oil color is a symptom of a blown gasket.
 
Re: Oil Consumption in 2013 5.0

I just came back from the dealer after hearing his BS.
I have a 2013 Genesis 5.0 10500 miles
According to the manual they recommend oil change every 7.5K my dealer say 5K and recommends 3.75K.
I had a weird noise like a diesel engine when the gears are shifting, the diagnosis from the dealer there was a misfire on cylinder 2, the transmission oil was low one quartz and engine oil below dipstick gummed up and milky.

I questioned it and they told me the misfire was caused because of low transmission oil (I think this is BS). they topped off all oils and problem went away.
I also see the bumper quite black around a large area near the exhaust. I guess I am also stuck with a oil burner... but I am quite angry with the BS, and what if I had bought the HPP with service that will only cover oil change every 7.5K.
I am still researching on what I can do next. or If I am screwed with this oil burning engine.

Kim

Okay, take this with a grain of salt but I did a lot of research before buying my Genesis and I discovered that DI has never been mastered and that every manufacturer has problems with it...mainly oil burning. So I resisted temptation and went with a 4.6. See here:

Ask An Engineer: GDI Problems In A Nutshell

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/05/ask-an-engineer-gdi-problems-in-a-nutshell/
 
Re: Oil Consumption in 2013 5.0

According to the manual they recommend oil change every 7.5K my dealer say 5K and recommends 3.75K.
I am still researching on what I can do next. or If I am screwed with this oil burning engine.

I've been shocked at the oil consumption of my 5.0. I had an Acura for years that burned zero oil between services (that I was never late for because that '04 car had a service minder that my '12 Genesis somehow omitted). My car burns oil at an absurd rate. My dealer too recommends between 3K and 5K per oil change---I had heard for years that while that was standard back in the '60s and '70s, modern engines don't have to have oil changed nearly as often.

I'm losing faith in the engineering of this car. I know if I just keep the oil topped off I'm unlikely to have problems, but this just seems very out of step with other high end manufacturers.

I normally hang on to my cars for many years, but I am not so sure about how long I'm going to keep my Genesis. The oil consumption is very unsettling.
 
FTR - my SH-AWD TL used a quart ever 2K miles or so as well... Acura confirmed this "normal" for the J37. The J-series in particular can be on either extreme... From the postings thus far the TAU 5.0 exhibiting the same things...
 
Im not as much concerned with the oil soot on the inside of the pipes or in the air, but i dont want it on the paint or built up on the intake valves.

I just read that the Toyota FRZ/Subaru BRZ use a second set of injectors to keep the intake valves cleaned with gasoline.

This would also seem like it would be able to provide more fuel when the pedal goes to the carpet.

The only downside would be that replacing injectors would cost 2x as much.
 
A hybrid systen designed to overcome flaws with DI. Injectors wash ports clean for the purpose of eliminating carbon build up.
 
DI IMO isnt the problem now... might be down the road where the carbon deposits grow on the valves. However it still not confirmed if or how much deposits will occur on the valves over xyz miles.

Honestly I think you guys need to back to grass roots... engine builds, break in, driving habits (not warming up engine, short trips,etc). It's not to hard to believe a faulty part , clogged pathway, factory installed engine piece failure or improper install to blame for this. Just hard to pinpoint when its all sealed up by bolts metal and gaskets.

ppp

p.s. no idea about my car will check it before next oil change. bmw never burned any oil and others complained about oil loss.
 
FTR - my SH-AWD TL used a quart ever 2K miles or so as well... Acura confirmed this "normal" for the J37. The J-series in particular can be on either extreme... From the postings thus far the TAU 5.0 exhibiting the same things...

My 2004 TL never burned a quart, and I only took it in for service at the regular schedule intervals, which was a hell of a lot longer than 4K miles.
 
I have 2012 Hyundai Genesis R-Spec that I really love. Bought the car brand new with 12 miles on it. At about 5K miles I checked oil and it was low about 1 quart. I took it in to the dealer at 7K miles for first oil change and explained it had been low. I thought maybe it was low when I originally purchased. They made sure before I left that it was exactly at the fill line. 1K miles later I was low a quart again and took it back and started the oil consumption test. They marked the dipstick and said come back in 1K miles exactly. Came back and it was only a hair low and they noted and topped off. I then ran another 1K and came back, it was now 1.2 quarts low. They contacted Hyundai and they said to have the oil changed at the dealership and run 10W-30 instead of 5W-30 for the next 1K. Did that today! Dealer has been great and so far Hyundai is being very cooperative. Dealer told me I have a serious engine problem and would not be surprised if Hyundai replaced the engine, but we have to go through all the documenting. I hope Hyundai backs up their product. Like I said the car is awesome and I love it, but cars should not burn oil. Oil is not a consumable. I don't care who says it is ok to burn a quart here or there, they should not burn any oil, especially new model cars.

I will update this site as I proceed down this road with Hyundai. No pun intended!

P.S. Wife drives car around town and I'm on the highway some on the weekend heading to local towns so driving style is mixed.
 
Thanks for the info. The R-Spec issue really seems to be a hit and miss item...not present in every car. I'm really starting to think it's a ring seal issue.
 
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