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Reported Issues with the Genesis GV60

I don't think the standard 12v batteries are designed to deal with the demand characteristics of an EV vs an ICE vehicle where they are mostly helping turn over the engine.

I theory, operating an EV should be the job that every 12V dreams of, there is little work to be done. I used my booster pack to start the GV60 twice, and it still read 100%.
It's design flaw, that the 12V battery does not charge sufficiently when parked. The real solution is to always carry the physical key with you (the actual key, not the fob. I'm not sure why Genesis opted for a separate key instead of the industry standard which has a physical key inside the fob), and have a 12V battery jump starter in the frunk. You need the physical key to unlock the car so you can open the frunk, where the 12V battery is located.
I think you’ve hit the nail on the head. The problem is in the 12V battery management.
You’ve also described my process to a T. Battery was dead, I popped the physical key out to open the door, then popped the frunk open, where my booster pack is. Connected it to the 12V battery and started the car.
I also agree that the completely separate physical key is a silly design choice - particularly, given the size of the fob.
 
It's design flaw, that the 12V battery does not charge sufficiently when parked. The real solution is to always carry the physical key with you (the actual key, not the fob. I'm not sure why Genesis opted for a separate key instead of the industry standard which has a physical key inside the fob), and have a 12V battery jump starter in the frunk. You need the physical key to unlock the car so you can open the frunk, where the 12V battery is located.
I have not had this problem but won't the eye scanner let you open the door? And if you have the Performance model, won't the valet card also do the job?
 
I have not had this problem but won't the eye scanner let you open the door? And if you have the Performance model, won't the valet card also do the job?
Neither of those will work if the 12V battery is dead.
 
I just had a dead-12v battery issue last Friday. I had charged the car to 90% overnight, then restarted charging in the morning to 100% before I left for work. I was going to be driving a fair distance later that afternoon. Drove the 5 minutes to work around 10:20am, drove about 5 minutes to pick up some lunch around 1:45pm. When I went out to my car around 3pm, the car was dead-dead - completely unresponsive. I did not have my physical key on me and I was due to visit a friend in hospice at 4pm. Had to have a colleague run my home and I took my wife's car to visit my friend.

I went back to deal with my car that evening. The first time I tried to jump it, it went a little crazy. Horn honks, dash flashing. I disconnected the jump-starter and then I measured the voltage of the battery: 4 volts! My second attempt to jump it was successful and with the car "running" the voltage across the battery was 14.5ish volts so it was charging. I left it on for a good long time. Kept it parked nose-out in the driveway overnight and whenever I drove it the on Saturday, I'd leave it on but locked. (Easiest way to do that seemed to be to lock all doors while I was in the car with the doors close. Open the driver's window. Exit the car. Reach in, push the lock button, then put the auto-up window button and remove arm quickly. Using the key behind the handle is a bit awkward.) I also ordered a "Auto Battery Monitor BM2 Bluetooth 4.0 12V Device Car Battery Tester" from Amazon that arrived on Sunday. Got that connected and I've been keeping an eye on what's going on with the battery.

I'm booked for the 910G Service Campaign "2023-24MY GV70 ELECTRFIED (JK1A EV) & GV60 (JW1), 2024MY GV80 (RG3 EV) VCMS UPDATE SOFTWARE CHARGING LOGIC 24-01-051G" on November 26th. I'll ask them check the 12v battery itself, too. Going down to 4v couldn't have been good for it.

This is the voltage vs time for yesterday. It wasn't plugged in overnight but it charged the battery from 1 to 2am. The sharp spikes at 8-something, 11am, and 2pm were short drives to/from work. The double-bump between 5 and 6pm was a 15 minute drive to pick up dinner and an 11 minute drive home.

I don't know why it's sometimes steady between drives/vehicle-off-charging and other times there are episodic dips. I could see a dip when the a/c does the drying thing but not sure why they repeat sometimes.

1731034241253.webp
 
I'm booked for the 910G Service Campaign "2023-24MY GV70 ELECTRFIED (JK1A EV) & GV60 (JW1), 2024MY GV80 (RG3 EV) VCMS UPDATE SOFTWARE CHARGING LOGIC 24-01-051G" ...

Thanks for all that info. I'm curious, however... Had you received any notification about getting the 910G service performed? Does 910G show up for your vehicle under Genesis's recall search?:
 
Thanks for all that info. I'm curious, however... Had you received any notification about getting the 910G service performed? Does 910G show up for your vehicle under Genesis's recall search?:
It does show up when I search the VIN. It seems it's about level 2 charging fixes to mitigate port overheating and not 12v battery charging logic, though.
 
It does show up when I search the VIN. It seems it's about level 2 charging fixes to mitigate port overheating and not 12v battery charging logic, though.
Check to see of you have the recall for 907G. This is for the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU). The software update is suppose to resolve issues where the 12 volt auxiliary battery experiences low charging due to the ICCU. The dealer is to inspect and perform a software update or repair the ICCU and fuse. Mine only required the software update and the 12 volt battery seems to be charging better than before.
 
New to Genesis so I have to ask. In the app I do not see where it lists recalls. Is there a tool to do this online with the VIN? I know that the app for my Mach E would always show recalls.
 
Check to see of you have the recall for 907G. This is for the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU). The software update is suppose to resolve issues where the 12 volt auxiliary battery experiences low charging due to the ICCU. The dealer is to inspect and perform a software update or repair the ICCU and fuse. Mine only required the software update and the 12 volt battery seems to be charging better than before.
So 907G does not show up when I check Genesis - Recalls with my VIN, only the 910G. I took delivery on 4/30/24 and I was had checked the VIN prior to delivery to ensure there were no recalls pending at that time. There may have been some pending recalls a month or so before I took delivery - I was watching their stock and checking different VINs before I pulled the trigger. Given when I took delivery and when 907G came out, it should be been done prior to 4/30, right?
 
So 907G does not show up when I check Genesis - Recalls with my VIN, only the 910G. I took delivery on 4/30/24 and I was had checked the VIN prior to delivery to ensure there were no recalls pending at that time. There may have been some pending recalls a month or so before I took delivery - I was watching their stock and checking different VINs before I pulled the trigger. Given when I took delivery and when 907G came out, it should be been done prior to 4/30, right?
Yes, that would be a very good assumption. I received my recall notice in October 2023. If you are having an issue/concern maybe take it into the dealer and tell them there is an issue with the 12 volt and if they can check out the ICCU to make sure the software was updated and or if the ICCU needs to be replaced.
 
Well, I think the dreaded ICCU fuse issue has caught up with me. Was driving, not far from my house, & I thought I heard something, didn’t think anything of it but a moment latter up comes the electrical system warning & the car dropped into limp mode. I drove the rest of the way home & called my guy at Genesis to ask if they thought I should try driving it to them (they are quite close 5km (3mi)), they said just in case call for assistance. I will find out more in the morning when they’ve gone over it.
 
I theory, operating an EV should be the job that every 12V dreams of, there is little work to be done. I used my booster pack to start the GV60 twice, and it still read 100%.

I think you’ve hit the nail on the head. The problem is in the 12V battery management.
You’ve also described my process to a T. Battery was dead, I popped the physical key out to open the door, then popped the frunk open, where my booster pack is. Connected it to the 12V battery and started the car.
I also agree that the completely separate physical key is a silly design choice - particularly, given the size of the fob.

That couldn't be further from the truth. EVs constantly draw power from the 12v even when the vehicle isn't running because of the electronics (sensors, infotaiment, cameras, etc. that need to operate even when the car is parked an din the "off position." This adds wear and tear to the battery and increases the likelihood of a deep discharge and battery degradation. Compare this to an ICE where the car is primarily using the 12v to start the engine. The BMS in EVs is programmed to address this to a certain degree in terms of using the HV battery to top off the 12v but it doesn't change the dynamic that 12vs in EVs are under much higher stress than 12vs in ICE vehicles.

A common issue with the 12v in EVs is that OEMs make them smaller capacity than they should because they are looking at weight savings.

If you look across EV forums (I"m on a dozen) you see the common complaint of the 12vs that are not up to snuff and people end up replacing them with lithium ion 12vs with higher capacity. Genesis isn't the only EV brand where people end up with premature 12v batteries that are dead. Look across EV forums.
 
That couldn't be further from the truth. EVs constantly draw power from the 12v even when the vehicle isn't running because of the electronics (sensors, infotaiment, cameras, etc. that need to operate even when the car is parked an din the "off position." This adds wear and tear to the battery and increases the likelihood of a deep discharge and battery degradation. Compare this to an ICE where the car is primarily using the 12v to start the engine. The BMS in EVs is programmed to address this to a certain degree in terms of using the HV battery to top off the 12v but it doesn't change the dynamic that 12vs in EVs are under much higher stress than 12vs in ICE vehicles.
I disagree. If the 12V battery management is working properly, it can regularly top up the battery -even when the car is off. No ICE car can do this.
A 12V EV battery is never subject to a a high amperage draw, like an ICE battery is during every use. This is why manufacturers can and do out smaller batteries in them.
I don’t know what vehicle you’re referring to that has an infotainment system running when the car is off - this sounds like my kids leaving the TV on as they’ve moved onto doing something else.
 
I think you’ve hit the nail on the head. The problem is in the 12V battery management.
You’ve also described my process to a T. Battery was dead, I popped the physical key out to open the door, then popped the frunk open, where my booster pack is. Connected it to the 12V battery and started the car.
I also agree that the completely separate physical key is a silly design choice - particularly, given the size of the fob.

I used to think that not having the key an insert into the fob was a bad decision but now I have reversed myself. If, like me, one is no longer carrying the fob but using the digital key instead, then the Genesis decision looks smart as I have taken the key out of its case and now it is a small flat key and put that key into a sleeve and put the sleeve into my wallet. I wouldn't be able to do that with the type of key inserted into the fob as they tend to have a bulkier handle.

Now I just have to get a booster pack for my frunk and I will be prepared for a failure (although, fingers crossed, in a year and a half I have not had a problem).

Beyond that, I will leave it to you and @EVsquatch to fight it out.
 
I don’t know what vehicle you’re referring to that has an infotainment system running when the car is off - this sounds like my kids leaving the TV on as they’ve moved onto doing something else.
Well, there are certainly some electronic things running all the time. For example, the cell radio is always on, the keyless entry system radio, the alarm, etc.
 
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I disagree. If the 12V battery management is working properly, it can regularly top up the battery -even when the car is off. No ICE car can do this.
A 12V EV battery is never subject to a a high amperage draw, like an ICE battery is during every use. This is why manufacturers can and do out smaller batteries in them.
I don’t know what vehicle you’re referring to that has an infotainment system running when the car is off - this sounds like my kids leaving the TV on as they’ve moved onto doing something else.

Infotainment is a broad term that generally includes the software which is running the vehicle which in most modern EVs is running in the background and is monitoring various aspects of the vehicle and that is drawing from the 12v. In most modern EVs the vehicle is never fully "off" and is drawing from the 12v.

The high amperage draw of a 12v in the ICE is the hardest thing it has to do and it is designed specifically to do that vs the constant parasitic draw that an EV has and the increased power drain from more electronics vs an ICE.

I guess since EV batteries have it so great, it explains why I've had to replace the 12v in my electric cars over the last 10 years after about 2-3 years when the 12vs in my ice go 5-6 years or longer. Or that across EV forums ppl complain about dead or depleted batteries regularly.
 
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I hadn’t considered the separate key advantage for someone not carrying a key in the base case (we don’t have that available in Canada for some reason). A good point.

Cellular connectivity isn’t something unique to EVs - our last two ICEs had similar. Recent Googling tells me that an Ioniq 5 draws something in the neighbourhood of 100-200 mA, a few minutes after being shut off.
An ICE requires ~500A to start.
Yes, 12V systems in EVs are more prone to discharge. I’d argue that this is due to lesser batteries being installed and failures of the ICCU to properly maintain them. Peak draw for an ICE battery is ~30X what it is for an EV. I think it’s impossible to argue that an EV battery is subject to greater demands that an ICE’s is.
 
I hadn’t considered the separate key advantage for someone not carrying a key in the base case (we don’t have that available in Canada for some reason). A good point.

Cellular connectivity isn’t something unique to EVs - our last two ICEs had similar. Recent Googling tells me that an Ioniq 5 draws something in the neighbourhood of 100-200 mA, a few minutes after being shut off.
An ICE requires ~500A to start.
Yes, 12V systems in EVs are more prone to discharge. I’d argue that this is due to lesser batteries being installed and failures of the ICCU to properly maintain them. Peak draw for an ICE battery is ~30X what it is for an EV. I think it’s impossible to argue that an EV battery is subject to greater demands that an ICE’s is.

You are focused on peak draw in an ICE but all automotive lead acid batteries are designed for peak draw. They are not designed for the increased and nearly constant draw from the electronics in systems in EVs that are almost never off. A lead acid battery in an ICE earns its living starting your car and then the alternator is running the show. They were never designed for EVs.

That is why EV owners are switching out to lithium-ion 12v batteries which have a longer lifespan, higher density, are more efficient, and can last 3,000-5,000 cycles. That is key since EVs are constantly draining the 12v and inducing a partial cycle. A lead acid on average will last ~400 cycles. A lithium ion battery will last 3-5,000 cycles.
 
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