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Sedan Subwoofer install

How did you install the Video In Motion in a 2015 Genesis Sedan.? How much did it cost? Thank you in advance.



QUOTE=MathWiz;196854]I finally was able to install mine over the weekend

Added the LC2i from AudioControl along with the subwoofer level control. This has signal sensing turn on for the amp.

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Added a Alpine MRP-M500 - Amplifier - 1-channel

Product Features

RMS Power Per Channel Into 4 Ohms: 300W X 1

RMS Power Per Channel Into 2 Ohms: 500W X 1

2 Single Voice Coil Subs Or 1 Dual Voice Coil Works Best

Number 1 Rated Amp In The US

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and the 2 10" JL Audio subs I took out of the car replaced by the Genesis.

Subs.jpg


Fills in the bottom end nicely.

I added the Video in Motion (VIM) interface from NavTV so that DVDs can now be shown with the car moving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIpA6lIPdqc

Charles[/QUOTE]
 
I was able tominstall everything.

Several ive encountered.

1. I tappedto the subwoofer connector. If the volume is low, the LC2 i will not power on as well as the amp. It has to be in middle or halfway to power it using GTO. The power cuts off depending on the music.

2. If the music is off, i get a very loud hissing on the subwoofer. Really loud.

3. I barely notice the bass. The 2015 Genesis Sedan Ultimate Tech Package has a very good sound insulation that you dont hear the aftermarket sub. But if the trunk is open, i can feel the bass and the vibrations on low freq.

Any input will be highly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 
3. I barely notice the bass. The 2015 Genesis Sedan Ultimate Tech Package has a very good sound insulation that you dont hear the aftermarket sub. But if the trunk is open, i can feel the bass and the vibrations on low freq.

You're pointing speakers away from car, so it's normal for sound waves to travel away from you and outside the car through the trunk, bumper cover, etc. The back seats have thick foam behind them and some metal/plastic, then some type of felt layer all over the trunk. If you're sitting in the front of the car, you have even more layers to block the sound (4 seats, absorbing materials like the carpets and headliner material) that's why the stock sub is pointed up right into the car.

I think for best results, even with just one smaller sub instead of 2 big ones, you'll want to simply replace the stock one, or use that same opening (or another one like the pass-through between the back seats).

Outside of that, any way you slice it, even if you get 10x the volume so that you can feel it better inside the car, you'll be wasting most of the sound which kinda goes against the point of good soundproofing in order to get good sound.
 
Its very difficult to tell what kind of output (RCA or low level) that you could even use to tie into an aftermarket amp/sub.

You find the V8 with Tech stereo not to your liking in terms of the bass?
I have the 17 speaker lexicon system in 2014 r spec...although system sounds great....some ppl including me always want more...just the way it is...upgrading turns me on....grrrr
 
Out of the box thought. If our source is Bluetooth could we place bluetooth receiver on sub amp and have source stream to both head unit and sub? That way you'd get full non-eq'd signal to sub.
 
The 2015 5.0 and 3.8 Model's Amp, listed as "W/ JBL and W/O AV" has the White Harness on the Bottom and the Grey one on the Top.

Grey Connector:

It's pinout looks just like the one in my system, except the single woofer wires are represented by Pin 22 (Grey with Black Stripe) as Positive (+) and Pin 21 (Blue with Orange Stripe) as Negative (-).

The pink wire on the white connector is the white that will you give switched 12v. Anything below 30hz is gone thanks to the factory amp.



Hello all! New member here....ran into this thread during my install on my 2017 5.0 Ultimate...figured I would help others in my position with a little clearer description on the wire taps :

I do not believe my second gen had the same pin positions, but the colors were the same as Sting and Skiman mentioned.

I ran these wires to my AudioControl LC2i :

White Connector / Pink Wire = 12v
Gray Connector / Grey w/ Black Stripe - Positive (+)
Gray Connector / Blue w/ Orange Stripe - Negative (-)

We ran a power and ground from the LC2i to the battery. We ran the same 12v wire to both the LC2i and the Amp.

RCAs from the LC2i to your amp, power your amp and you're done :)

See you around!
 
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For those of you with subs, do you get the warning for your trunk being open? At some frequencies at high volume, my trunk thinks it's opening itself lol. So it will flash on, then immediately off...and later do the same thing depending on the song.

Wondering if anyone looked into disabling the warning light?

Not a big deal for me, so I have just been getting used to it. But it would be nice if I didn't see it anymore ;)
 
^Not sure why I cannot edit my post.

Somehow the subs vibrated the two rubber bumpstops on the bottom of the trunk lid.

I had to adjust them quite a bit outwards, in other words, the trunk would need to close tighter.

So far so good, just keep it in mind if yours is bumpin too!
 
I agree in taking out the stock sub all together. My last car - Acura TL I had 2 JL audio 12s, replaced every door speaker and the audio deck (good ole days when you could throw in a nice Alpine headunit).
Anyway, I left the stock sub in and unhooked initially. The bass was nice but once I took the stock "sub" out of the rear deck the bass was much better in the cabin.
 
I have my factory sub on a switch because there are times I need trunk space more than some bang. Removing the factory sub would definitely improve the sound, and since I left mine in place I compensated by keeping the back arm rest down with the pass thru open. Frankly this is a hell of a lot easier than removing the factory sub...
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A clean and successfult loc and amp install thanks to all the contributors of this thread.
 
Today I had my passive loc replaced with a LC2i and the results are night and day. I set my gains with a dd1 and before with the passive loc, it wouldn't detect distortion even with the gains on the amp and loc all the way up because of the low signal strength. With the LC2i, the signal strength was strong enough for the the loc gain to be set to 3/4 and the amp to be set at 1/4. Overall spl was significantly higher and the frequencies once not being passed through due to low signal strength were definitely being reproduced.

All measurements were taken with the bass level on the head unit at zero and now I'm finding I have to set the bass at -2 or -3 because it's just too much lol


Have you found a speaker wire diagram to wire the LOC? I've been trying to find the color diagram but I've found nothing
 
For video in motion you were able to use the kit designed for older genesis models on a 2015?
 
Quick question and comment.
I picked up a LC2i, and use the speaker level input by tapping the sub and was curious if there were 4 wires in use for the stock sub or just 2?If there are just two wires which inputs should be used on the LC2i? I bought mine used and it did not come with any paperwork.

My plan is the remove the stock sub to make it a bit easier for the bass to make inside the cabin. I tossed in my test sub (powered by my Crown Amp) figured out real quick that this would yield the best results. Does anyone have any instructions on how to remove the parts needed to access the sub. I have the sun shade and concerned to just going after it and breaking something due to a step or two I was not aware of. :)

System
LC2i I am considering upgrading to a pro version that will help restore some of the low end not present in the stock system or just shoot for an epicenter.... maybe.
Alpine PDR-M65
2 JL Audio 12W1v3-4 sealed wired for a 2ohm load. I'm still working a design and have not decided how I will build it yet.

Anyone care show any pictures of there installs?

Celltech thankyou for the pic of your amp rack, I like your approach better than the one I was thinking of any may use your idea to build off of.
 
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