What did you do with your DH Genesis today?

[Jay86]

Try cleaning the wire harness connectors pins with electrical contact cleaner. We all make mistakes when trying to do work our cars from time to time; it is part of DIY. Make a mistake and learn from it.

Hell, even so called professional mechanics make mistakes as well; but most people never learn about it since they do not know anything about cars to tell the diference until the car stop working properly and pay that mechanic more money to fix the issue they caused in the first place. Hence, why I do my own repairs if possible and had minimal issues with out-of-pocket repairs ever since on my cars.

Yea honestly after seeing a lot of your posts it inspired me to try and figure this car out myself, after being told it’d be a “dealer car”. I fell in love with this car regardless, I’m a younger guy and this is my first car I bought and started working on so it’s a bit of a learning slope with this one haha!

I’m gonna take your advice and try and clean it out with electrical contact cleaner the best I can, if that doesn’t work what would you suggest? I’m still learning how electrical components work so I’m a bit unsure what the next step would be..?

 

[2for1]

Appreciate the response man! I took apart the trunk trim and it looked like everything was fine, didn’t see any exposed frayed wires. Except this time after taking it apart, and the trunk still being open the light wasn’t on at all, whereas last night if I opened the trunk the light would be back on, and when I closed it the light would flicker on and off on its way down.

So like you advised there’s most likely a short. I’ll probe the wires to see. Last question is, if I find a short, should I just cut up all the electrical tape till I find the area that’s causing the problem or?? I have friends at an audio shop who helped fix my electronic exhaust cutouts and I’m wondering if they could help or just go somewhere professional? Any advice on this?

My lights would go on and off when the trunk lid moved.
I could move the wire bundle with my hand and do the same.
Save yourself some work and forget the electrical troubleshoot.
Strip the tape off the bundle and you'll see the issue.
E-Z fix if damage not too bad.

 

[carguy75]

Yea honestly after seeing a lot of your posts it inspired me to try and figure this car out myself, after being told it’d be a “dealer car”. I fell in love with this car regardless, I’m a younger guy and this is my first car I bought and started working on so it’s a bit of a learning slope with this one haha!

I’m gonna take your advice and try and clean it out with electrical contact cleaner the best I can, if that doesn’t work what would you suggest? I’m still learning how electrical components work so I’m a bit unsure what the next step would be..?

^ What he said.

Strip back the electrical tape and fix the wires if possible. Cleaning the contacts could not hurt if the glue remover did contaminate them.

I just went the extra mile by probing the wires before I buttoned everything back together to make sure the issue what the broken wires I could see and not any more farther down the harness.

 

[carguy75]

Today I cleaned my dirty hazy backup camera lens with some Invisible brand glass cleaner and Q-tips. The cleaner worked and got the camera image sharp again which is great. However, the best thing is that my camera works perfectly now when I switch between normal and top-down modes. My reverse camera never worked correctly ever since I bought the car in 2018. The reverse image was stuck in normal mode; only the guide lines changed.

Now it works. I do not know if repairing the wiring harness solved the issue if the camera mode system is electrical or if the cleaner somehow loosen up a stuck camera mechanism if it changes the angle of the lens mechanically. All I know is that my reverse camera system works like it should after three years.

I know that a backup camera is not an exciting topic to many of the members reading this, but it is to me since my car is actually working like it should; even in small part such as with the backup camera.

Now I just have to clean the rest of the car.

Working camera finally.

It used to do this in top-down mode; same view as normal mode except the guide lines.

 

[Andyj]

I suspect the wire harness repair fixed the camera angles. Good call on cleaning the lens. I will do that today.

 

[carguy75]

I suspect the wire harness repair fixed the camera angles. Good call on cleaning the lens. I will do that today.

You maybe correct. I did have to wrap the gray camera cable in the harness with electrical tape because the wire jacket was split with wires exposed. None of the wires seems broken, but the exposed wires could have been touching something that caused the camera to act weird.

However, after much thought; it could have been a simple module reset when I disconnected the battery to work on the harness. The battery was disconnected for a couple days, so the camera module probably corrected itself on reboot when I reconnected the battery. I never checked the camera modes until yesterday when I cleaned the camera lens.

Well, anyway it works like it should now regardless of the reason. However, it would be good to know what solved the issue if the camera modes get stuck again.

 

[Andyj]

Replaced the upper brake light so it does not flood the rear cabin with the red brake light due to corroded rubber seal.

 

[carguy75]

Today I had to change out my DRL lights again due to my driver side turn signal going out today. The last time was in 2018. I decided to change both bulbs again due to how much of a job it is to change just the signal/DRL bulbs. It seem like I will have to change the DRL/signal bulbs every 2-3 years in this car unless I just turn off the DRL and use my bulbs for turn signal only.

 

[The White Shadow]

Today I had to change out my DRL lights again due to my driver side turn signal going out today. The last time was in 2018. I decided to change both bulbs again due to how much of a job it is to change just the signal/DRL bulbs. It seem like I will have to change the DRL/signal bulbs every 2-3 years in this car unless I just turn off the DRL and use my bulbs for turn signal only.

You still using incandescent, or did you upgrade to LEDs?

 

[carguy75]

You still using incandescent, or did you upgrade to LEDs?

Still using 2357LL incandescent bulbs.

The bulbs only cost $7 a set. So I guess that the bulbs are not an expensive maintenance item to change every 2-3 years. The cheaper $10-$30 LED 1157/2357 bulb sets has about the same life span or less based on my other car that uses LED switchback turn signal/DRL bulbs.

I will not spend $100 or more for the high-end LED bulb kits that may or may not last longer than the $7 bulbs I am using now.

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[surprisinguy]

I will not spend $100

Yes, that's rediculous - I think the Sirius that I put in were $25 or so and have been 3 years strong so far.

 

[carguy75]

Yes, that's rediculous - I think the Sirius that I put in were $25 or so and have been 3 years strong so far.

The Sirius bulbs seem to be a very good set of LED bulbs. If my current incandescent bulbs fail before 3 years I may try the Sirius LED bulbs the next bulb change.

However, to justify the additional cost of the $25 Sirius LED bulb set over the $7 standard 2357LL bulb set; the LED bulbs will need to last much longer than 3 years.

 

[The White Shadow]

The Sirius bulbs seem to be a very good set of LED bulbs. If my current incandescent bulbs fail before 3 years I may try the Sirius LED bulbs the next bulb change.

However, to justify the additional cost of the $25 Sirius LED bulb set over the $7 standard 2357LL bulb set; the LED bulbs will need to last much longer than 3 years.

Well, the incandescent bulbs are only rated for about 800hrs of use. And that is as turn signals. They were never designed to be used as DRLs. They burn out quickly and get way too hot. The LEDs are rated at about 30k hours and don't run hot. They seemed like the obvious choice for me.

 

[carguy75]

Well, the incandescent bulbs are only rated for about 800hrs of use. And that is as turn signals. They were never designed to be used as DRLs. They burn out quickly and get way too hot. The LEDs are rated at about 30k hours and don't run hot. They seemed like the obvious choice for me.

I have had DRL LED bulbs burnout in my Cadilliac in less than a year, however those bulbs did have a for signal use only warning so DRL use burned them out. The circuits for LED bulbs does run hot which is the point of failure in most LED bulbs.

 

[carguy75]

Replaced the upper brake light so it does not flood the rear cabin with the red brake light due to corroded rubber seal.

How hard was it to change your upper brake light? My rubber is starting to crack and I want to change it before it gets too bad.

 

[surprisinguy]

He wrote up something in another thread - pull down rear headliner 3-4 clips pop out. Then use a small socket to remove 4 bolts. Remove wire. Slide out - replace.
Or buy black Gorilla tape and cut a piece to fit - save $140

 

[Andyj]

The gorilla tape is Tacky, literally and figuratively. Just wrong for a nice car. The job was easier than I expected. There is a great DIY write up here somewhere. Best tip is to remove the 3 rear headrests so you can lay on top and access the area. Also the headliner will bend and crease slightly when being forced down, but the slight crease will massage away. Go for it.

 

[Beeswax]

How hard was it to change your upper brake light? My rubber is starting to crack and I want to change it before it gets too bad.

Yeah mine needs replacement also. Somebody from one of the Facebook Genesis groups had used this 3M seal strip and worked out great for him. I might give it a try.

 

[surprisinguy]

this 3M seal strip

i had looked at these but couldnt find one that had black adhesive tape - just gray. I believe it would be seen through the back glass looking down on it - if you had cut the bad piece off. I actually used the gorilla tape without cutting out the bad rubber piece and you'd never know it. You have to kinda crawl under the rear window and look up to see it and if you didnt know what was going on you'd never notice it.

 

[carguy75]

i had looked at these but couldnt find one that had black adhesive tape - just gray. I believe it would be seen through the back glass looking down on it - if you had cut the bad piece off. I actually used the gorilla tape without cutting out the bad rubber piece and you'd never know it. You have to kinda crawl under the rear window and look up to see it and if you didnt know what was going on you'd never notice it.

I may go the black gorilla tape route when the crack is visible from inside the car. However, now the faint upper brake light rubber crack can only be seen when looking at it from outside the car close up.