oil change info 5.0 in pics

[Mark_888]

I would categorize it as moderate/sever. I'm fortunate to be able to adjust my hours to avoid most of the stop and go rush hour, those that can't it is sever. June-Aug you are going to sever temperature, and we have dust. Summer months, regular oil, 3750 would not be a bad call. When it cools down, you could go to 5-6000. I just can't come to recommend 7500 on regular oil, it's cheap and engines are expensive. But I'm old school.

Edit to add: I have done well with synthetic at a 5000 mile interval, year round. For the most part, my car fully warms up to temperature for about 30 minutes, that is really important as that give the contaminants a chance to "cook-off".

I completely agree and would go so far as to say that I can't recommend conventional motor oil (instead of synthetic) at any change interval, even 3000 miles. The cost of synthetic oil is just not expensive enough to justify having to use conventional motor oil. A 5-quart jug of a high quality synthetic such as Mobil 1 costs about $23 at Walmart (recently lowered from $25). The Walmart house brand synthetic (about $17.50 per 5-quart jug) is much better than conventional. Even Toyota and Honda have switched over to requiring synthetic for almost all engines (although they do a sneaky way by requiring 0W-20 oil, which is only available as a synthetic).

But my main point was that if using a good quality synthetic, and if one only drives in severe conditions 25% of the time or less for one or two categories, then 7,500 miles between oil changes is perfectly fine. The point is that the severe service test does not apply if one "ever" has driven in those circumstances, but only if one drives in one or more of those severe conditions at least 50% of the time. Plus, they were written for conventional oil, which is all that is required by Hyundai.

 

[Mac West]

Just a heads up, please due your research on why that label under your hood is recommending a certain type of oil. The oils are a new generation not made from a oil base stock but made from natural gas. They are the cleanest oil available and more manufactures with direct injection want it used (piston skirts stay clean). Also check out the fuel additive recommendation. Mac

 

[Mark_888]

Just a heads up, please due your research on why that label under your hood is recommending a certain type of oil. The oils are a new generation not made from a oil base stock but made from natural gas. They are the cleanest oil available and more manufactures with direct injection want it used (piston skirts stay clean). Also check out the fuel additive recommendation. Mac

Pennzoil now makes their Platinum Synthetic from Natural Gas. I am not aware of any other oil that is made that way (unless it is from sister company Quaker State or parent company Shell). I was not aware that Hyundai specified any "certain type of oil" other than a particular viscosity and the following for the 2015 Genesis:

Lambda 3.8
5W-30
API Service SM & ILSAC GF-4 (or above), ACEA A5 or above

Tau 5.0
5W-20
API Service SM & ILSAC GF-4 (or above)

If you have any specific information, please post of a pic of the documentation you are referring to.

 

[Mac West]

thats the label under the hood.

 

[Mark_888]

thats the label under the hood.

Can you get a better pic of that? Is that a USA Genesis? I think it says that Shell Helix is recommended, but not sure since there is mucho glare in the photo. But I am pretty sure that is basically an advertisement. All Genesis Owners manuals in the USA "recommend" Quaker State, but they don't specify any particular Quaker State oil type, and I know that is a paid advertisement. Shell Helix is not even widely available in the USA (Shell mostly sells oil under their Pennzoil and Quaker State brands in the USA).

Also, I believe that Shell Helix Ultra with Pure Plus Technology is similar to Pennzoil Platinum Ultra with Pure Plus Technology. Both are Group III synthetics and contain little or no Group IV PAO or Group V Esters.

 

[italiabrain]

Pennzoil now makes their Platinum Synthetic from Natural Gas. I am not aware of any other oil that is made that way (unless it is from sister company Quaker State or parent company Shell). I was not aware that Hyundai specified any "certain type of oil" other than a particular viscosity and the following for the 2015 Genesis:

Lambda 3.8
5W-30
API Service SM & ILSAC GF-4 (or above), ACEA A5 or above

Tau 5.0
5W-20
API Service SM & ILSAC GF-4 (or above)

If you have any specific information, please post of a pic of the documentation you are referring to.

Shell Helix is what is shown in his photo and many others of the engine bay. Shell advertises this directly as being made from natural gas, but I have to agree with the previous poster -- you're clearly the expert of all things and we should all just defer to your clearly wiser judgement.

http://www.shell.com/global/products-services/on-the-road/oils-lubricants/cars/find-right-car-oils/helix-fully-synthetic/ultra-sn-5w20.html

 

[jimb100]

Every car forum has this discussion every few months.

The manufacturer has many engineers who do millions of miles of testing before making fluid recommendations.

Unless you are a conspiracy theorist who believes Hyundai has some hidden reason for wanting your motor to fail (with a 100k warranty I can't imagine what that could be) you can follow the manufacturers recommendations and sleep well at night.

Of course, there are those who believe changing the oil twice as often will be twice as good, but there lies madness. Where does it end?

 

[Mark_888]

Shell Helix is what is shown in his photo and many others of the engine bay. Shell advertises this directly as being made from natural gas, but I have to agree with the previous poster -- you're clearly the expert of all things and we should all just defer to your clearly wiser judgement.

http://www.shell.com/global/products-services/on-the-road/oils-lubricants/cars/find-right-car-oils/helix-fully-synthetic/ultra-sn-5w20.html

I don't understand your point. I agree that Shell Helix Ultra is made from natural gas, as is Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus Technology (Shell owns Pennzoil and Quaker State). Both are Group III synthetic oils. But in the Genesis Owners Manual, Hyundai does not specify synthetic oil, and only lists the requirements I posted above (taken from 2015 Genesis Owner's Manual). I personally think it would be good for Hyundai to specify synthetic motor oil for the Genesis, and maybe use something like Shell Helix or Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus Technology as factory fill. Maybe they do use it is factory fill now (per label in engine bay), but the Owner's manual does not specify that synthetic be used.

Shell does not actively market their Helix brand of motor oil in the USA. I believe the only Shell motor oil widely sold in the USA is their Rotella brand which is normally for diesel trucks.

 

[lobsenza]

I am concerned about 5w-20 oil. I used it in another vehicle that recommended 5w-20 and i heard an engine tap when the engine was warm in the summer. I switched to 0w-30 Mobil 1 and the problem disappeared.

The owner's manual says that 0w-20 is preferred for the V8, but 0w-30 is acceptable. I am more inclined to go with 0w-39, especially in TX where we have much more heat than cool temperatures.

I currently have 700 miles on my car. I plan to do the first oil change between 1000 and 1500 miles.

 

[Mark_888]

The owner's manual says that 0w-20 is preferred for the V8, but 0w-30 is acceptable. I am more inclined to go with 0w-39, especially in TX where we have much more heat than cool temperatures.

I agree with you. But make sure you don't use a European Formula 0W-30 and use one made to Genesis specs like Mobil 1 0W-30.

But I am curious, where do see that 0W-20 is recommended. In the 2015 Owner's manual I have seen, it says 5W-20 is recommended for the Tau V8, and 5W-30 for the Lambda V6. OW-20 is obviously a good substitute for 5W-20, and is probably only available as a synthetic in 0W-20 viscosity (which makes it even better).

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[DFWGenny]

Every car forum has this discussion every few months.

The manufacturer has many engineers who do millions of miles of testing before making fluid recommendations.

Unless you are a conspiracy theorist who believes Hyundai has some hidden reason for wanting your motor to fail (with a 100k warranty I can't imagine what that could be) you can follow the manufacturers recommendations and sleep well at night.

Of course, there are those who believe changing the oil twice as often will be twice as good, but there lies madness. Where does it end?

Point #1: A manufacturer is primarily interested in carrying the component past the warranty period. I hold my cars much longer than that.

Point #2: The failure of an engine due to lubrication issues is after sludge blocks lubrication channels within the engine. Stopping the sludge is done by:

• Use high quality mineral based oils.
• Changing mineral based oils often before they break down.
• Use synthetic oils that are less likely to break down.

We can't evaluate the state of the oil within the engine, so changing the oil more often is cheap insurance. We usually put more miles on a car than we want before we get around to changing the oil, life happens.

I got 150,000 miles out of a 4.9L V8 and it wasn't lubrication that killed the engine, it was corrosion.

If you trade a car every few years, this must seem like insanity. If you want to get 200,000 miles out of your car, it is not. Motor oil, even synthetic, is cheap.

 

[DFWGenny]

I am concerned about 5w-20 oil. I used it in another vehicle that recommended 5w-20 and i heard an engine tap when the engine was warm in the summer. I switched to 0w-30 Mobil 1 and the problem disappeared.

The owner's manual says that 0w-20 is preferred for the V8, but 0w-30 is acceptable. I am more inclined to go with 0w-39, especially in TX where we have much more heat than cool temperatures.

I currently have 700 miles on my car. I plan to do the first oil change between 1000 and 1500 miles.

Being in Austin, I think dust and grit is your bigger issue. Have you heard engine tap with the original oil? I would go with the 5w-30 if you are concerned in the summer but change often due to the dusty conditions. I would use the recommended viscosity during the cooler months.

 

[Mark_888]

The main reason why manufacturers are specifying 0W-20 and 5W-20 motor oils these days is improved fuel economy. They are under pretty severe pressure to get the average MPG up for their fleet sold in the USA (CAFE regulations). The EPA mileage tests must be done with the recommended oil viscosity.

For purposes of engine longevity, a 0W-30 or 5W-30 would probably be better, all other things being equal.

 

[jimb100]

Point #1: A manufacturer is primarily interested in carrying the component past the warranty period. I hold my cars much longer than that.

Point #2: The failure of an engine due to lubrication issues is after sludge blocks lubrication channels within the engine. Stopping the sludge is done by:

• Use high quality mineral based oils.
• Changing mineral based oils often before they break down.
• Use synthetic oils that are less likely to break down.

We can't evaluate the state of the oil within the engine, so changing the oil more often is cheap insurance. We usually put more miles on a car than we want before we get around to changing the oil, life happens.

I got 150,000 miles out of a 4.9L V8 and it wasn't lubrication that killed the engine, it was corrosion.

If you trade a car every few years, this must seem like insanity. If you want to get 200,000 miles out of your car, it is not. Motor oil, even synthetic, is cheap.

Whatever gets you through the night!

 

[jimb100]

Point #1: A manufacturer is primarily interested in carrying the component past the warranty period. I hold my cars much longer than that.

Point #2: The failure of an engine due to lubrication issues is after sludge blocks lubrication channels within the engine. Stopping the sludge is done by:

• Use high quality mineral based oils.
• Changing mineral based oils often before they break down.
• Use synthetic oils that are less likely to break down.

We can't evaluate the state of the oil within the engine, so changing the oil more often is cheap insurance. We usually put more miles on a car than we want before we get around to changing the oil, life happens.

I got 150,000 miles out of a 4.9L V8 and it wasn't lubrication that killed the engine, it was corrosion.

If you trade a car every few years, this must seem like insanity. If you want to get 200,000 miles out of your car, it is not. Motor oil, even synthetic, is cheap.

I'm sorry, my reply was too flip.

Have your oil tested. There are lots of reputable test facilities and its not expensive.

I personally know people who have had their oil tested every year, looking for just the issues you describe.

They never find any.

Engines do fail. Valves fail, timing chains fail, piston rings fail, occasionally rod bearings fail.

Rarely are these oil related failures in cars in normal use. If you live in Alaska or Dubai or operated your car as a taxi use the severe use chart.

The greatest likelihood is that, somewhere north of 100k miles you will have an engine failure that is not related to how often you change your oil above the manufacturers recommendation.

At the time of the failure you will a decision to make: should I overhaul the engine or get rid of the car. For me, at 160,000 miles that would be an easy decision.

For you, you may choose to overhaul the engine. At that time any weaknesses created by not changing the oil more frequently than recommended by the manufacturer will be addressed.

The simple fact is that modern engines, run under normal conditions, with normal maintenance, using good quality oils, will show no abnormal wear at 100k miles.

Change your oil all you want but there is little to no chance that following the manufacturers recommendation will result in abnormal wear or shorten the life of the engine.

To say otherwise misleads people into thinking they have to spend more money for no benefit.

 

[Mark_888]

I'm sorry, my reply was too flip.

Have your oil tested. There are lots of reputable test facilities and its not expensive.

I personally know people who have had their oil tested every year, looking for just the issues you describe.

They never find any.

Engines do fail. Valves fail, timing chains fail, piston rings fail, occasionally rod bearings fail.

Rarely are these oil related failures in cars in normal use. If you live in Alaska or Dubai or operated your car as a taxi use the severe use chart.

The greatest likelihood is that, somewhere north of 100k miles you will have an engine failure that is not related to how often you change your oil above the manufacturers recommendation.

At the time of the failure you will a decision to make: should I overhaul the engine or get rid of the car. For me, at 160,000 miles that would be an easy decision.

For you, you may choose to overhaul the engine. At that time any weaknesses created by not changing the oil more frequently than recommended by the manufacturer will be addressed.

The simple fact is that modern engines, run under normal conditions, with normal maintenance, using good quality oils, will show no abnormal wear at 100k miles.

Change your oil all you want but there is little to no chance that following the manufacturers recommendation will result in abnormal wear or shorten the life of the engine.

To say otherwise misleads people into thinking they have to spend more money for no benefit.

I am not exactly sure if you are saying that the money spent on synthetic motor oil provides no benefit. If you are saying that, I don't understand the idea of getting oil tested, which costs $25 each time or even yearly (Blackstone Labs). The total price of a 5-quart jug of Mobil 1 synthetic is about $23 right now (maybe about $7-$8 more than conventional oil). That would make the cost of a synthetic oil change about $10-$12 more than conventional oil change (admittedly, many service operations charge a lot more than that for synthetic).

Given that some on this forum are driving a Genesis that they paid $50K for, I do not think getting a synthetic oil change is spending more money for no benefit. Pretty soon, I think Hyundai will specify synthetic (like Toyota and Honda) by requiring 0W-20 or 0W-30 motor oil, which only comes in synthetic at those viscosities. They do it that way, so they don't put off potential customers from buying a car that requires an expensive "synthetic oil" change.

I can understand that some people who only keep cars for a few years, and typically lease them, don't really care about engine longevity. I guess it is hard to make the argument for synthetics in that case, if the car is under warranty and the manufacturer only specifies conventional oil.

 

[jimb100]

I am not exactly sure if you are saying that the money spent on synthetic motor oil provides no benefit. If you are saying that, I don't understand the idea of getting oil tested, which costs $25 each time or even yearly (Blackstone Labs). The total price of a 5-quart jug of Mobil 1 synthetic is about $23 right now (maybe about $7-$8 more than conventional oil). That would make the cost of a synthetic oil change about $10-$12 more than conventional oil change (admittedly, many service operations charge a lot more than that for synthetic).

Given that some on this forum are driving a Genesis that they paid $50K for, I do not think getting a synthetic oil change is spending more money for no benefit. Pretty soon, I think Hyundai will specify synthetic (like Toyota and Honda) by requiring 0W-20 or 0W-30 motor oil, which only comes in synthetic at those viscosities. They do it that way, so they don't put off potential customers from buying a car that requires an expensive "synthetic oil" change.

I can understand that some people who only keep cars for a few years, and typically lease them, don't really care about engine longevity. I guess it is hard to make the argument for synthetics in that case, if the car is under warranty and the manufacturer only specifies conventional oil.

No, my point was not that using synthetic motor oil has no benefit.

My point was that exceeding the manufacturers oil change recommendations provides no benefit.

If you follow the manufacturers recommendations you will not get a "sludge" buildup. This may have been true 50 years ago but not today.

Companies like Hyundai do not build engines and make recommendation only to "get by" the warranty period. They actually do want your engine to last well beyond 100,000 miles, in the case of Hyundai and GM.

If anyone does not believe their oil replacement schedule is appropriate they can send a sample to be tested. This will tell them if the oil they are going to put in is any better than the oil they are taking out. Do this a few times and you will realize the manufacturers replacement schedule will maintain the proper lubrication. Besides the cost, its better for the environment.

Whether you spend $10k for a car or $100K for a car it makes no sense to spend money replacing motor oil that doesn't need to be replaced.

I hope this clarifies my position.

 

[Mark_888]

No, my point was not that using synthetic motor oil has no benefit.

My point was that exceeding the manufacturers oil change recommendations provides no benefit.

If you follow the manufacturers recommendations you will not get a "sludge" buildup. This may have been true 50 years ago but not today.

Companies like Hyundai do not build engines and make recommendation only to "get by" the warranty period. They actually do want your engine to last well beyond 100,000 miles, in the case of Hyundai and GM.

If anyone does not believe their oil replacement schedule is appropriate they can send a sample to be tested. This will tell them if the oil they are going to put in is any better than the oil they are taking out. Do this a few times and you will realize the manufacturers replacement schedule will maintain the proper lubrication. Besides the cost, its better for the environment.

Whether you spend $10k for a car or $100K for a car it makes no sense to spend money replacing motor oil that doesn't need to be replaced.

I hope this clarifies my position.

OK, I have no problem with that and agree. If someone wants to change their oil more than recommended, that is up to them, but I think the idea that almost everyone falls into the severe category is bunk.

The only caveat is that these decisions are not "completely" made by engineers, and the marketing people make the final call. That is because warranty expense is a marketing cost, and the marketing people have to compete with other automakers in terms of what consumers perceive to be the cost of maintenance. Obviously, there is a trade-off between warranty expense and making the vehicle appear to be inexpensive to maintain, and that is why the marketing people in each country make that decision (warranties are not the same in each country).

 

[jimb100]

OK, I have no problem with that and agree. If someone wants to change their oil more than recommended, that is up to them, but I think the idea that almost everyone falls into the severe category is bunk.

The only caveat is that these decisions are not "completely" made by engineers, and the marketing people make the final call. That is because warranty expense is a marketing cost, and the marketing people have to compete with other automakers in terms of what consumers perceive to be the cost of maintenance. Obviously, there is a trade-off between warranty expense and making the vehicle appear to be inexpensive to maintain, and that is why the marketing people in each country make that decision (warranties are not the same in each country).

In fact, the decision on the oil change schedule is made primarily by the engineers and the oil company, especially if the manufacturer is recommending a specific oil, like Corvette and Mobil 1.

The cost of maintenance (oil change) is so trivial compared to the overall cost that marketing defers to engineering.

Why? How would you like to be the marketing guy who demanded a greater than recommended oil change schedule then had to deal engine issues?

For the sake of a 5000, 10000,15000 mile interval its not worth the risk to go against the oil company or the engineers.

Its nice to believe that by changing the oil more often than recommended you're doing your engine good. But in reality you're wasting money.

Anyone who doesn't believe it only needs to have their oil tested a couple of times.

And you're right, only certain people fall into the 'severe' category and manufacturers are pretty specific about the conditions.

But hey, its your car and money.

 

[Mark_888]

In fact, the decision on the oil change schedule is made primarily by the engineers and the oil company, especially if the manufacturer is recommending a specific oil, like Corvette and Mobil 1.

The cost of maintenance (oil change) is so trivial compared to the overall cost that marketing defers to engineering.

Why? How would you like to be the marketing guy who demanded a greater than recommended oil change schedule then had to deal engine issues?

For the sake of a 5000, 10000,15000 mile interval its not worth the risk to go against the oil company or the engineers.

Its nice to believe that by changing the oil more often than recommended you're doing your engine good. But in reality you're wasting money.

Anyone who doesn't believe it only needs to have their oil tested a couple of times.

And you're right, only certain people fall into the 'severe' category and manufacturers are pretty specific about the conditions.

But hey, its your car and money.

When Hyundai instituted the 10 year / 100K mile drivetrain warranty, I can guarantee that it was not because they had the most reliable cars in the industry. In fact, Hyundai had the worst reliability in the industry at that time they started that (with possible exception of Yugo). It was a marketing decision made for USA market (Canada still does not have the extended drivetrain warranty).

It is not a coincidence that oil change intervals for completive cars (Toyota, Honda, Hyundai) are very similar or identical, even though they use different engines. Manufacturers have the same interval for different engines by the same manufacturer. The cost of maintenance (partly influenced by oil change interval) is an important selling point for many buyers at that price level. So even though engineers are consulted, the marketing people have the final say, because the marketing people pay the warranty expense for repairs.

Luxury or expensive sports cars like Corvette are completely different, since consumers are usually not price conscious about the cost of oil changes, and for sports cars there may be special requirements that must be accommodated regardless of cost.