Transmission issue

[AdriaticBlueG70]

I don't think that's a good idea.

Every automaker has a bunch of specific, often proprietary, additives in their own ATF. Some transmissions are designed for a specific viscosity, in addition to the clutches and brakes operating with a specific type of fluid. A while back I recall reading a patent on a new CVT oil that has microparticles suspended in the fluid that acts like little Legos that sort of streamline together when under pressure which results in hugely increased film strength and also a type of friction modifier.

Since Hyundai/Kia literally designed this transmission from the ground up, who knows what kind of specifics they needs in terms of fluid. Perhaps it is something simple that every other OEM uses, but I'd rather not be the test dummy on that.

100% agree. Never, ever mess around with non-factory transmission fluid on cars like this.

 

[Toddasaurus]

I drained my transmission fluid last summer, replaced with OEM fluid. It's EXPENSIVE, but there is another, less expensive option that supposedly fulfills the same qualifications as the OEM fluid. Even so, I didn't even want to take that risk.

When I drain my ATF again I'll also be replacing the oil pan, as it has a filter built into it. I might consider trying this other one, but I'm not sure...





Either way, I think swapping out fluid more often than what the manual recommends is a good thing. Also, when you drain it, you'll get 4 quarts out at most - but the tranny holds about 10 total. That said, when you drain it you're only doing part of it, thus the idea that changing more often is a good thing.

 

[AdriaticBlueG70]

I drained my transmission fluid last summer, replaced with OEM fluid. It's EXPENSIVE, but there is another, less expensive option that supposedly fulfills the same qualifications as the OEM fluid. Even so, I didn't even want to take that risk.

When I drain my ATF again I'll also be replacing the oil pan, as it has a filter built into it. I might consider trying this other one, but I'm not sure...

View attachment 27395



Either way, I think swapping out fluid more often than what the manual recommends is a good thing. Also, when you drain it, you'll get 4 quarts out at most - but the tranny holds about 10 total. That said, when you drain it you're only doing part of it, thus the idea that changing more often is a good thing.
[/QUOTou drained already? Manual says 60k miles for severe usage. Do you auto cross or do track days?

I drained my transmission fluid last summer, replaced with OEM fluid. It's EXPENSIVE, but there is another, less expensive option that supposedly fulfills the same qualifications as the OEM fluid. Even so, I didn't even want to take that risk.

When I drain my ATF again I'll also be replacing the oil pan, as it has a filter built into it. I might consider trying this other one, but I'm not sure...

View attachment 27395



Either way, I think swapping out fluid more often than what the manual recommends is a good thing. Also, when you drain it, you'll get 4 quarts out at most - but the tranny holds about 10 total. That said, when you drain it you're only doing part of it, thus the idea that changing more often is a good thing.

ooh, you drained it already? Manual says 60k miles for severe usage. Do you auto cross or something? Or just being super cautious?

 

[Toddasaurus]

No autocross (yet). Overly cautious? Definitely. I figure just after break-in is where the ATF will see the biggest and most sudden increase in contaminants and particulates. Of course, the filter will capture most of this; but, when I changed my fluid for the first time I mostly wanted to test everything and make sure nothing changed significantly, and I didn't want to get in over my head. After doing my first ATF drain and seeing the results, next time I'll be planning to get a new drain pan for the filter replacement as well.

 

[maxsilver]

I don't think that's a good idea.

Every automaker has a bunch of specific, often proprietary, additives in their own ATF. Some transmissions are designed for a specific viscosity, in addition to the clutches and brakes operating with a specific type of fluid. A while back I recall reading a patent on a new CVT oil that has microparticles suspended in the fluid that acts like little Legos that sort of streamline together when under pressure which results in hugely increased film strength and also a type of friction modifier.

Since Hyundai/Kia literally designed this transmission from the ground up, who knows what kind of specifics they needs in terms of fluid. Perhaps it is something simple that every other OEM uses, but I'd rather not be the test dummy on that.

Certainly food for thought here.

I drained my transmission fluid last summer, replaced with OEM fluid. It's EXPENSIVE, but there is another, less expensive option that supposedly fulfills the same qualifications as the OEM fluid. Even so, I didn't even want to take that risk.

When I drain my ATF again I'll also be replacing the oil pan, as it has a filter built into it. I might consider trying this other one, but I'm not sure...

View attachment 27395



Either way, I think swapping out fluid more often than what the manual recommends is a good thing. Also, when you drain it, you'll get 4 quarts out at most - but the tranny holds about 10 total. That said, when you drain it you're only doing part of it, thus the idea that changing more often is a good thing.

Did you notice any change in the operation of the transmission after draining and refilling?

Would the dealership have more success in fully draining the transmission so the fluid could all be replaced in one go?

 

[TinsleyC]

Would the dealership have more success in fully draining the transmission so the fluid could all be replaced in one go?

I know you're not asking me, but the trans can be flushed which effectively replaces all the fluid.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Certainly food for thought here.

Did you notice any change in the operation of the transmission after draining and refilling?

Would the dealership have more success in fully draining the transmission so the fluid could all be replaced in one go?

Operation was exactly the same after draining/refilling the ATF. Some dealerships may have the ability to completely flush the transmission, but it requires some special equipment to do so.

Edit: I'm sure most transmission specialty shops could fully flush the ATF no problem. If you went to one of them, I'd just make sure they use SP-IV RR specific fluid.

 

[AdriaticBlueG70]

Operation was exactly the same after draining/refilling the ATF. Some dealerships may have the ability to completely flush the transmission, but it requires some special equipment to do so.

Edit: I'm sure most transmission specialty shops could fully flush the ATF no problem. If you went to one of them, I'd just make sure they use SP-IV RR specific fluid.

I think the partial drain approach @Toddasaurus did is a good idea. Like every 36k miles or so some fresh fluid is put in, and maybe every 72k or so the filter is replaced. Avoids any weirdness some transmissions get from a full ATF flush. Also saves money up front vs paying for a full flush plus filter.

 

[tommyjin]

Just want to say I've been dealing this hard downshift or engine brake with my 2019 3.3T Prestige for 9 months. It happens when slowing from around 35mph to about 20mph. It'll happen about 6-7 times in my 5-minute commute. It started in late summer of 2019 at about 7k miles, so not really a winter issue. It pretty much goes away after driving over 10 minutes, but I rarely do that.

Took it to two different dealers. First one just shrugged it off saying it's normal. Second one claimed to reset the adaptive values. This problem still exists on my car now. This sucks, especially going from a $20k car to a $50k car. I don't want to waste more time with the dealership and even considering buying a new car, but the Hyundai/Genesis support in my area is lacking.

 

[raf1919]

Just want to say I've been dealing this hard downshift or engine brake with my 2019 3.3T Prestige for 9 months. It happens when slowing from around 35mph to about 20mph. It'll happen about 6-7 times in my 5-minute commute. It started in late summer of 2019 at about 7k miles, so not really a winter issue. It pretty much goes away after driving over 10 minutes, but I rarely do that.

Took it to two different dealers. First one just shrugged it off saying it's normal. Second one claimed to reset the adaptive values. This problem still exists on my car now. This sucks, especially going from a $20k car to a $50k car. I don't want to waste more time with the dealership and even considering buying a new car, but the Hyundai/Genesis support in my area is lacking.

I wish I could see this to see if it's what I have to. This car has most aggressive down shifts when I come to like red light. I just figured it's normal since this is the most high performance car I have owned. But reading these makes me concerned. I have 3.3 elite. No matter what mode as I left off gas coming towards red light I will feel every gear as it works it way down in my last Acura TL I really felt nothing it would just slow itself down with no jittrriness.

The best way I can explain is it feels like manual transmission when it's down shifting I feel every gear and there is like jerky motion with each change. Again I just figured it's how a higher performance car just operates.. Is that what you are feeling too?
Also I normally would never buy first edition cars but figured since this has same motor and Trans as stinger which has been around for years that bugs would be worked out. Are stingers having this issue?

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[joschneider]

Yes stingers are having the problem. Me too! They also have spoke about resetting the adaptives but it doesn’t look like there is a fix or even acknowledgement that it is an actual issue.
It doesn’t seem to affect everyone though, some on here don’t seem to have it

 

[Slip_Angle]

Yes stingers are having the problem. Me too! They also have spoke about resetting the adaptives but it doesn’t look like there is a fix or even acknowledgement that it is an actual issue.
It doesn’t seem to affect everyone though, some on here don’t seem to have it

This is interesting. I haven't experienced this in my car but I wonder if we could start to narrow down who may be affected. AWD cars vs RWD, or build dates etc.. I believe my car is a fairly early build.

 

[joschneider]

This is interesting. I haven't experienced this in my car but I wonder if we could start to narrow down who may be affected. AWD cars vs RWD, or build dates etc.. I believe my car is a fairly early build.

May 2018 build, rwd

 

[pulsar]

May 2018 build, rwd

My Infiniti G37 did this exact same thing. Felt like down shifting a stick. Infiniti had an updated PCM program that once reflashed problem was fixed. Can’t help but think do all our G70s have the same revision of what is loaded to the PCM or are there newer revisions? Seems the dealer could plug into the OBDII and find that out quickly. My 2020 has had that hard downshift once in a blue moon. I also wait a minute or so when starting to warm things up.

 

[mrcleeaan]

This has only happened to me twice in one day back in Nov 2019 and has not happened since. Maybe all the WOT I've been doing fixed it, not sure.

Dec 2018 build date, 3.3T RWD.

 

[TinsleyC]

My Infiniti G37 did this exact same thing. Felt like down shifting a stick.

So did my G37. I read somewhere that they programmed the tranny to do this, to simulate a stick shift. I thought it was kinda weird but it didn't bother me much. I could take my foot off the gas approaching a red light, and not hit the brake until I was going less than 5 mph. It had tremendous engine braking. I think it was the rev matching that made it more present.

 

[pulsar]

So did my G37. I read somewhere that they programmed the tranny to do this, to simulate a stick shift. I thought it was kinda weird but it didn't bother me much. I could take my foot off the gas approaching a red light, and not hit the brake until I was going less than 5 mph. It had tremendous engine braking. I think it was the rev matching that made it more present.

Correct on all counts. The G37 was always ready to launch with the rev matching. Just felt strange to have a automatic car you could feel downshift. After my re-program, still a little rev matching existed but felt much better. Went 8+ years in that car with no issues so nothing bad to say about Infiniti.

 

[TinsleyC]

Went 8+ years in that car with no issues so nothing bad to say about Infiniti.

Me either! Got 10 years on my 2009, only about 83k miles - loved that car, was the Journey Sedan RWD. Sold it for $9,250 in Nov 19 and bought my G80.

 

[rmod]

I'm semi tempted to try out a different transmission fluid. Perhaps an aftermarket fluid such as Amsoil might be better than the OEM spec fluid.

I did just that at 52K kms - drained trans and filled it with Amsoil - just because the Hyundai ATF was comparitively very expensive....and I assumed that I will be able to drain atleast 6 qt. But I was only able to drain 3.5qt. I'm currently close to 80K kms (2.0T). No issues so far. Planning on doing another drain and fill again at 100K kms.
One odd thing I noticed - I was able to drain 3.5 qt but was able to put 4 qt back before it was full.... go figure!

 

[maxsilver]

I did just that at 52K kms - drained trans and filled it with Amsoil - just because the Hyundai ATF was comparitively very expensive....and I assumed that I will be able to drain atleast 6 qt. But I was only able to drain 3.5qt. I'm currently close to 80K kms (2.0T). No issues so far. Planning on doing another drain and fill again at 100K kms.
One odd thing I noticed - I was able to drain 3.5 qt but was able to put 4 qt back before it was full.... go figure!

Did you see any improvements with the Amsoil fluid vs OEM?