Oil Consumption in '12 R-Spec

[Yoda_guy]

For all the guys having issues with oil consumption I have a few words of advice. Take them however you want. Odometers don't rack up miles with the engine idling in park. Certain situations accelerate oil usage due to blowby such as high rpm during engine braking. Things like coasting down from redline in 1st gear.

 

[Yoda_guy]

Also on a side note. Toyota has been replacing Pistons and rings on cars well outside of warranty because of oil consumption. Their threshold is a quart in 1350 miles or less but if it's a little less than a quart used in that time they'll usually work with you. These at not high dollar luxo cars but pos 10 year old Camry's. Toyota does this because their reputation of reliability and customer satisfaction is very important to them. Food for thought.

 

[kaaos]

Some information for you, The nissan v8 engines are the same way, it got better in the second iteration vk56de 5.6 titan though. It seems the culprits were a mix of cheaper ring manufacturer and excess back pressure from the emissions system. I have a 2003 m45 with the vk45de, my first engine burned about a 3/4 quart every 1000 miles.
Second engine I replaced myself ( It died because the day i switched to amsoil i found a metric ton of metal shavings in the oil, Most likely the rod bearing). I didn't really give the second 90k engine a chance it burned some initially but gutted the pre catalytic converters and ran amsoil and beat the living snot out of it. I also upgraded the cooling system and deleting my second rear thermostat.
Now it burns exactly 0 quarts of oil ever 4-5k.
eventually I will replace the pair of main cats with some higher flow quality units.
That seems to be a demise for the new generation high flowing v8s
I'm still on the fence about purchasing a Genesis, Knowing I would have to do the same to it.

edit, Also the nissans of my years also had known cheap catalytic converter issues where they would melt or disintegrate and platinum dust would flow back into the cylinders and cause oil burning issues. Wonder how many other low tier catalytic converters to the cheapest bidder were used in these oem applications.

 

[Roc 5.0]

Yea, make sure you get required 7 qt oil/(filter) change, then measure. Think problem was 5.0s manufactured before Nov 2011. Dealers supposedly to contact Hdqs and see if they would authorize replacement or rebuilt engine. Don't think good on non original owner resales since 100K warranty would not apply. If you are only burning 1 qt per 4K , and have mileage, so what. Oil is cheap. Some manufacturers say 1qt per 1k is ok( Jaguars/BMWs).

 

[flblue1968]

Hi, I don't want to be rude but can anybody give a quick summary to save me reading the previous 38 pages.

I'd like to purchase a Genesis 5.0 R Spec or maybe an Equus. They both seem a ton of car for the price point. My budget puts me looking at the 2011/12/13 years.

Obviously I will be buying one with decent mileage on it so I don't want to be buying potential immediate trouble.

Is there a certain month on the VINs or a serial number on the VINs on the 2012s to look for that makes them safe from these issues?

Is it a simple case of looking for 2013 and newer and you are completely safe from this issue? Are all the 2013s and newer safe and clear from this oil issue on both models?

Or should I just stick my trusty 08 Toyota Avalon Limited with 112k miles on it?

 

[12Rspec50]

Hi, I don't want to be rude but can anybody give a quick summary to save me reading the previous 38 pages.

I'd like to purchase a Genesis 5.0 R Spec or maybe an Equus. They both seem a ton of car for the price point. My budget puts me looking at the 2011/12/13 years.

Obviously I will be buying one with decent mileage on it so I don't want to be buying potential immediate trouble.

Is there a certain month on the VINs or a serial number on the VINs on the 2012s to look for that makes them safe from these issues?

Is it a simple case of looking for 2013 and newer and you are completely safe from this issue? Are all the 2013s and newer safe and clear from this oil issue on both models?

Or should I just stick my trusty 08 Toyota Avalon Limited with 112k miles on it?

Buy a late 2012 build (4/12) or a 2013+ and you will be clear.

 

[sjphill]

Build date 9/19/2011, 109000 miles, burns oil like a refinery. Dont know if theres anything I can do against Hyundai. On acceleration on an on ramp, I leave a cloud at full throttle. When it burns the Cats out, can I just replace them with catbacks if my emissions are not state regulated?

 

[Woody6977]

It's been over a year since a reply on this thread but doesn't hurt to ask. I am selling my 2012 5.0 R-Spec. I have 180,000 miles on it. The oil consumption has gone from 1 quart every 1200-1400 miles to now 1 quart every 300-400 miles. I get the black smoke when I gun it. No loss if power. Coils and plugs were changed at 150,000. I am not comfortable selling my car with this level of oil burn. The car is still immaculate. In the last 20,000 miles I have replaced the rims, tires, shocks, struts, alternator, all four rotors, pads, exhaust from the secondary CATs back with X-pipe and magflows.

Other than spending $7000 on new rings any way to bring this burning of oil back down to a more reasonable level?

 

[Gunkk]

It's been over a year since a reply on this thread but doesn't hurt to ask. I am selling my 2012 5.0 R-Spec. I have 180,000 miles on it. The oil consumption has gone from 1 quart every 1200-1400 miles to now 1 quart every 300-400 miles. I get the black smoke when I gun it. No loss if power. Coils and plugs were changed at 150,000. I am not comfortable selling my car with this level of oil burn. The car is still immaculate. In the last 20,000 miles I have replaced the rims, tires, shocks, struts, alternator, all four rotors, pads, exhaust from the secondary CATs back with X-pipe and magflows.

Other than spending $7000 on new rings any way to bring this burning of oil back down to a more reasonable level?

Sorry to say, but as a fellow 2012 owner, this will cost more to fix at a dealer out of warranty than it's worth. Two steps higher weight oil (i.e. 10w40) MIGHT help a little, but step back down if you get horrific valve chatter on cold starts that doesn't go away in 30 secs or so. At those miles the bearing-journal gaps are likely so big that even 20w50 may be OK. But the car is done for unless you have a half-way decent local vocational-technical school nearby that wants to use it as a teaching car.

At your burn rate, just add a quart of 20w50 every tank of gas and see what happens.

As for selling the car, in my opinion your best bet is to sell to a teen driver with FULL written disclosure "THIS CAR BURNS A QUART OF OIL EVERY 300 MILES", and toss in a couple cases of oil for free in the trunk. Carmax, etc. will just pass it on and someone will get screwed. So don't feel bad about giving the teen a headache. It's not a headache for a 16yo. They'll probably just total it anyway and problem will be finally solved for good.

 

[12Rspec50]

Sorry to say, but as a fellow 2012 owner, this will cost more to fix at a dealer out of warranty than it's worth. Two steps higher weight oil (i.e. 10w40) MIGHT help a little, but step back down if you get horrific valve chatter on cold starts that doesn't go away in 30 secs or so. At those miles the bearing-journal gaps are likely so big that even 20w50 may be OK. But the car is done for unless you have a half-way decent local vocational-technical school nearby that wants to use it as a teaching car.

At your burn rate, just add a quart of 20w50 every tank of gas and see what happens.

As for selling the car, in my opinion your best bet is to sell to a teen driver with FULL written disclosure "THIS CAR BURNS A QUART OF OIL EVERY 300 MILES", and toss in a couple cases of oil for free in the trunk. Carmax, etc. will just pass it on and someone will get screwed. So don't feel bad about giving the teen a headache. It's not a headache for a 16yo. They'll probably just total it anyway and problem will be finally solved for good.

I agree with gunkk here. Raise oil viscosity, or sell to carmax and wipe your hands clean of it. Last option would be to swap it yourself like I did with mine. It's time consuming and an engine goes for around $3500, but if you've got a knack for mechanic work, it's easy.

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[Shady_panda]

I agree with gunkk here. Raise oil viscosity, or sell to carmax and wipe your hands clean of it. Last option would be to swap it yourself like I did with mine. It's time consuming and an engine goes for around $3500, but if you've got a knack for mechanic work, it's easy.

side question but did you ever do intake valve cleaning? just curious to know how dirty they are and how often they need to be clean, the good ol Seafoam method still the go to solution or walnut blasting is the only way?

 

[12Rspec50]

side question but did you ever do intake valve cleaning? just curious to know how dirty they are and how often they need to be clean, the good ol Seafoam method still the go to solution or walnut blasting is the only way?

I've never cleaned mine, but I did do a teardown of my old engine, and the valves are real dirty. The new motor I put in only had something like 30k miles on it, so I didn't find it necessary to do.