3.3T Genesis G70 Oil and Filter change (how-to)

[WilcoJunoHotel]

I bought these Sears branded steel ramps a few years ago off craigslist for $40. The ramp wasn't quite long enough to allow the G70s air dam to clear so I added a couple of 2x10s to get the slow rise needed.

Other than removing that blanket that covers the underside (which only adds a couple of minutes), it was a pretty straightforward oil change but I am going to shop for some type of funnel that I can nest up closer to the drain plug. Once that drain plug comes out, it is a flood of oil and it splatters EVERYWHERE if the pan is laying on the floor. Big mess if not careful.

 

[canucklehead604]

^ i like your ramp set up. props for the rubber mat underneath to prevent slipping. i learned that the hard way a couple weeks ago. i was pulling my E39 540i/6 up on ramps to take a look at a small leak. my plastic ramps have rubber pads on the bottom and i've used them many times with no issues. that changed. just as i was nearing the top of the ramp they both slid out and my bumper hammered down, cracking the bottom/undersides. the extra fun part is i had just had the bumper refinished and painted.

so, now i have a new project that i didn't need. multiple bodyshops said i'd need a new bumper cover and they didn't want to touch a repair. but at ~$1100 i said no bueno, and i'll fix it myself even though i've never attempted real bodywork repairs before. but how hard could it be? i've already done the structural repairs and am prepping for paint and clearcoat.

 

[thatjawncrazy]

Another oil change done with Liquimoly 5W30 and additive. I had to put blocks before the race ramps because my car is too low on Eibachs.

I mean, free oil from FCP Euro...can't complain.

 

[Slip_Angle]

Nice ramps!

I made my own last year.

 

[Volfy]

^ i like your ramp set up. props for the rubber mat underneath to prevent slipping. i learned that the hard way a couple weeks ago. i was pulling my E39 540i/6 up on ramps to take a look at a small leak. my plastic ramps have rubber pads on the bottom and i've used them many times with no issues. that changed. just as i was nearing the top of the ramp they both slid out and my bumper hammered down, cracking the bottom/undersides. the extra fun part is i had just had the bumper refinished and painted.

so, now i have a new project that i didn't need. multiple bodyshops said i'd need a new bumper cover and they didn't want to touch a repair. but at ~$1100 i said no bueno, and i'll fix it myself even though i've never attempted real bodywork repairs before. but how hard could it be? i've already done the structural repairs and am prepping for paint and clearcoat.

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Ouch! Sorry to hear that. Nice DIY repair job though. Did you lay some fiberglass cloth in there?

I had a set of steel ramps way back in the late '80s, right after I bought my first car. It was as stick shift Mustang and took a lot of clutch slipping and handbrake feathering to coerce the front end onto the perch. Even then, I managed to go past the end of the perch one time, which was a PITN situation to fix. Luckily the car was a POS, so the damaged done didn't bother me that much. Bought my first floor jack soon after that. Kept the ramps, rarely used, for a while, but finally tossed them. That was when I installed on a VW GTI a really nice front spoiler, which was too low to clear the ramps anyway.

For the past 20+yrs, I have two HF 2-ton low-profile floor jacks, which have been really versatile and I've used them in many different way. For one thing, having 2 of them made it very easy/quick to jack up one corner of my car and swap to jack stands.

One of them finally started to develop a hydraulic fluid leak. I didn't even bother to check if it's repairable, and just dumped it. Bought a new 3-ton low profile for $129, which pumps much faster and handles so nice, I'm gonna buy a second one and retire the remaining old 2-ton. 20+yrs of service I've more than gotten my money's worth.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

^ i like your ramp set up. props for the rubber mat underneath to prevent slipping. i learned that the hard way a couple weeks ago. i was pulling my E39 540i/6 up on ramps to take a look at a small leak. my plastic ramps have rubber pads on the bottom and i've used them many times with no issues. that changed. just as i was nearing the top of the ramp they both slid out and my bumper hammered down, cracking the bottom/undersides. the extra fun part is i had just had the bumper refinished and painted.

so, now i have a new project that i didn't need. multiple bodyshops said i'd need a new bumper cover and they didn't want to touch a repair. but at ~$1100 i said no bueno, and i'll fix it myself even though i've never attempted real bodywork repairs before. but how hard could it be? i've already done the structural repairs and am prepping for paint and clearcoat.

Too bad about the damage. I saw a video somewhere on this forum where a guy put a floor jack I guess on the wrong spot on the pinch weld and it slipped or dropped and the car dropped down onto the jack buckling the car door and breaking the lower body panel. That was expensive. Tough way to learn.

Thanks for posting your mishap. I may rethink my current method as I wasn't 100% pleased with how I did it with the mat and the block. It worked but there is a lot of pressure on that ramp and the possibility of the mat tearing loose from the board while not high, it could happen. I have seen boards placed to wedge up against a wall but again the possibility exists for the board to move given the pressure put on it. The most reliable way of keeping those ramps in place would be to drill holes in the concrete floor and screw the wood blocks down.

As a kid I used ramps all the time on a flat driveway and never had an issue. The smooth garage floors pose a challenge with these ramps.

 

[JCtx]

Hey guys, does anybody have the OEM oil filter p/n? Can't find it. Want to know if it's the same as my Pali, which is 26320-3CKB0. The new Santa Fe Calligraphy I also bought has an identical looking filter, but it's different. Why the heck not make them all the same, just like the spin-on one? Oh well. Hopefully this car is the same, so I can use the 2 new ones I have. Ha ha. Thank you.

 

[rmod]

^ i like your ramp set up. props for the rubber mat underneath to prevent slipping. i learned that the hard way a couple weeks ago. i was pulling my E39 540i/6 up on ramps to take a look at a small leak. my plastic ramps have rubber pads on the bottom and i've used them many times with no issues. that changed. just as i was nearing the top of the ramp they both slid out and my bumper hammered down, cracking the bottom/undersides. the extra fun part is i had just had the bumper refinished and painted.

so, now i have a new project that i didn't need. multiple bodyshops said i'd need a new bumper cover and they didn't want to touch a repair. but at ~$1100 i said no bueno, and i'll fix it myself even though i've never attempted real bodywork repairs before. but how hard could it be? i've already done the structural repairs and am prepping for paint and clearcoat.

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Just get that quick jack when it's on sale in Costco. Mine has paid for itself with just the maintenance on our 2 vehicles. Saves a lot of time and headaches.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Hey guys, does anybody have the OEM oil filter p/n? Can't find it. Want to know if it's the same as my Pali, which is 26320-3CKB0. The new Santa Fe Calligraphy I also bought has an identical looking filter, but it's different. Why the heck not make them all the same, just like the spin-on one? Oh well. Hopefully this car is the same, so I can use the 2 new ones I have. Ha ha. Thank you.

I believe the OEM filter is a MAHLE brand and that is the brand that came out of my '22 3.3 with p/n 26330 3LTAO Mahle # OX1048

I put in a WIX WL 102327

 

[JCtx]

Hey, thank you very much for your help. Yeah, I finally found it too (it's a 0 at the end, not an O, by the way), so it's different. And the one on the Santa Fe yet another version. Why not just one, like the spin-on? Geez. Oh well. Will buy new ones. And yes, all 3 versions are Mahles, and look the same, but obviously different somehow. I always like to change the oil the first time at around 1K miles, but never over 3K. What are you guys doing here? And after that, I do it every 5K with Mobil1 0/30, and always OEM oil filter.

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[Volfy]

26330-3LTA0 might be a newer part number. Hyundai's microfiche sites says 26320-3LTA0. 2017-2021 Genesis Oil Filter 26320-3LTA0 | OEM Parts Online

Yeah, Hyundai seems to like to keep changing their cartridge type filters. It was that way with the 3.8L cars I had. I still prefer the top access cartridge filter, which can be changed out with very little mess. The 2.0T oil filter is the old metal can type and bottom access.

I changed oil + filter at around 1k miles. After that, depends on how the car was driven. Generally around 5k. If miles put on were mostly hwy cruising, I'd go longer. If a lot of stop n go city traffic... shorter interval.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Looked at the old filter cartridge again and the first 5 digits are definitely 26330 - and the last part is 3LTA0 (last digit is a zero).

I bought my '22 used with 2K miles and I changed the oil and filter right away. I will likely change it around every 5K or so.

 

[Terdbath]

I changed my oil last night following along with Todd's video. Mobile 1 5W 30 and a WIX filter. From start to finish it was a 90 minute job with about half of that time waiting on oil to drain from the drain plug or oil filter housing. In addition the drain plug crush washer was crushed so hard it would not slide past the threads on the bolt. Had to cut it off. I did find another filter option pictured below but I used the WIX because it appeared to be the better of the 2. The drain plug location is different between the AWD and RWD 3.3. Mine is an AWD and even on ramps oil poured out from both the drain plug and filter housing without hitting any any other parts or engine splash guards.

 

[Husky]

Wow, I've never had to cut the washer off!
Surprised that the drain plug location varies between AWD and RWD.

 

[[NOBODY]]

I always have to cut the washer off. The RWD oil change is more difficult than the AWD because of the location and positioning of the oil pan bolt, FYI for anybody wanting to do this. Also, it's a crapload of oil, so make sure have not only a sufficiently large receiver for all that oil, but sufficiently large enough to allow you to move the oil receiver without any spills. Like 9-10 quarts of volume.

 

[[NOBODY]]

I've changed my own oil twice and noted how it looked golden like honey after starting the car and letting it run for a minute before turning it off and waiting 10 min before checking the level.

Last oil change I brought my own full synthetic oil (they use conventional oil) to the dealer. I picked up the car and drove it home, about 9 miles. When checking it, it looked about as dark as yours did.

My only guess is that they don't wait for it all to drain out. They wait for the main stream to slow and then plug it up. I wouldn't be surprised if 1/2 quart of dirty oil (that would have drained out) remained.

This is another reason why I'll continue to change my own oil.

OIl color has nothing to do with viscosity ratings after X amount of heat cycles. People are obsessed with oil color, but it has zero to do with anything relevent.

I use pennzoi platinum ultra and have since changing from factory oil. Only have 6500 on the odometer. First change at 1000 miles and 2nd at 6000 miles. With most synthetics not sure your really going to find much differences. I ran Mobil 1 in my G37 for 9 years. Would have loved to have looked inside that engine to see how clean, or not the inside was? Some synthetics use some trickery in claiming their oil is synthetic. Multi stage refining with petroleum oil allows some to claim synthetic for the molecular size by then has gotten so similar to pure synthetic they get to claim ‘synthetic’. PP ultra, being made from natural gas I’m figuring is 100% full synthetic for it’s not suppose to have any petroleum products at all in it. Just a guess on my part though. Price wise PP, Mobil 1 and Ultra and very competitive so use what your comfortable with. Not sure with normal driving any difference would be noticeable.

If you drove that G37 like a Bat OO Heck every once in a while and used good gas, it should have looked great, with that port injection. I kept mine until almost 200k, and the guy who bought it pulled the plugs and scoped, and it looked great. Very very clean for 200k miles. What a great engine, so so reliable imo. Had zero issues in 5 years and 200k miles, driving it like a maniac.

 

[Volfy]

Those aluminum crush washer can deform a great deal when overtorqued. And it doesn't help that it doesn't get replaced every time. Yet another reason I'd rather do my own work, even if the dealer can do it for free.

I've had to twist a few off the drain plug over the years, usually with a channellock or visegrip, something like that. Never had to cut one off, but that works too.

BTW, I know some folks make a bit deal of filter cartridge end cap material/construction. I've used ones with cheapie-looking end caps (like the one on the right in above pic). Never saw one that failed. To me, the Wix on the left looks to have substantially more surface area, if you were to unfold the filter element. That is what makes it better. Still, the difference is likely in the amount of usable service life, before accumulated particles cause flow restriction to become a possible issue. As long as the oil/filter change interval is kept short, it's probably not really all that big a deal.

 

[TinsleyC]

If you drove that G37 like a Bat OO Heck every once in a while and used good gas, it should have looked great, with that port injection. I kept mine until almost 200k, and the guy who bought it pulled the plugs and scoped, and it looked great.

Loved my '09 G37 as well - best & fastest car I ever had. Just a pleasure to drive. Went from it to my G80.

 

[TinsleyC]

OIl color has nothing to do with viscosity ratings after X amount of heat cycles. People are obsessed with oil color, but it has zero to do with anything relevent.

Just to clarify, the oil color was an observation on my part. When I change it, it's still gold and clean looking after a short drive. When the dealer changes my oil, it's dirty out of the gate. Point being it's that they must not drain it all the way.

 

[canucklehead604]

Loved my '09 G37 as well - best & fastest car I ever had. Just a pleasure to drive. Went from it to my G80.

^ loved my G37S, and G35 before it. both 6MT sedans, so very rare. RWD/LSD/6MT, and a big NA V6. great combo, bulletproof, and very easy to maintain. seems quite old school by today's standards.