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2015 Genesis Tech Package - Front turn signal bulb blown - LED Replacement?

If I used say these, Sylvania 1157A Amber ZEVO LED Mini Bulb, I understand they will hyperflash. So does that mean the exterior LED light will hyperflash AND the inside dash turn light will do the same or just the dash flasher will hyper flash and exterior will flash normally?

If it's just a dash issue, is there any harm in letting it do that and just move on or could this cause electrical issues down the road?
The dash and the front/rear signals all hyper flash. In my car, it's weird but if I keep my wiper control set to "auto" they don't hyper flash. Take it off auto and they hyper flash. The auto setting must just draw enough current through the system to stop the hyper flash. Failing that, you'd need to put a resistor in line to mimic the amp draw of a filament bulb or find a LED with a resistor built in.
 
You really dont have to cut wires, just flip the pin position on one of the plugs is usually all it takes. Not hard, just takes a little time depending how easy it is to remove the pins from the plug. You usually just need a thin pointy thing. I filed down a nail just a little.
 
Sorry to semi-necro this thread, but I just finished doing a ton of research and wanted to post the technical explanation for why this is happening. I gleaned details from my own car's wiring harness connectors, a spare SJB circuit board, and a copy of the 2016 GDS diagnostic software with technical diagrams.

In short, our cars were never meant to have the headlight DRL strip! Hyundai appears to have designed the Genesis for 3 price points. The cheapest was intended for China and had downgrades like incandescent rear turn signals and incandescent front headlights. That was never launched. The mid-price is what we got in the US, with HID headlights and the front turn signal used as a DRL. The high-price model had features like a 360 camera (Around View Monitor), self-parking (self parking assist system), brake fluid level sensor, aerodynamic flaps in the lower grille, pedestrian cushioning hood, and DRL strips in the headlights running all the time. Yes, even the 2015 model had all those features in certain markets. (Note: you can't add most of those features to your own car because the wiring harnesses and circuit boards are designed separately for each market, so some wires/connectors will be missing and you won't be able to connect the extra modules.)

Our American models obviously have a DRL strip, so what gives? I think it was added late in production, because if you look at the headlight connector, the DRL pin (#8) is not connected. Our DRL strip is run off of the side marker lights! I'm guessing Hyundai engineers always meant for our incandescent turn signal to function as a running light run during the day and night, so they also intended for it to be a 2-filament bulb so it could withstand constant use. But if the DRL strip was added at the last minute, they may have decided to save a buck and used a single filament bulb, and also keep using the old wiring harness to avoid redesigning it. So they just changed the body control firmware to run the turn signal circuit as a DRL during the daytime, and just run the side markers at night because the last-minute DRL strip is connected to them. I don't have an explanation for why the turn signal bulb isn't run at a low voltage in DRL mode, unless they thought it would respond poorly to that, or it would be difficult to have the ARISU light controller do that. (Notes: I think they called the second filament the "tell-tale lamp", which is a weird misnomer, because everywhere else that's just the formal term for "idiot lights". The side markers are called "parking lamps" and the turn signals are called "turn bulbs".)

So what can we do? Obviously, the easiest long-term fix is to replace the single filament bulb with an LED and resistor that fools the ARISU light control chips into thinking it's still an incandescent bulb, like people in this thread have done.

I wanted to do a fancier fix and control the DRL strip with my own circuit board so it runs during the day. I am rather absentminded so this is going to take a while, but I'll give some technical details here in case any other savvy people want to try. The parking lights are controlled by a ST VND5E025AK driver IC with 2 channels. The channels control the entire left and right sides of the car, from the front side marker to the rear lights to the license plate bulbs. Meanwhile, the Infineon ARISU-LT IC has no documentation, but it appears to have 3 channels. There are 2 of the ARISUs, and each connects to the left/right front turn signal, rear turn signal, and HID headlight bulb with independent channels. High beams are controlled separately by moving a small mirror with a servo. Those ICs are in the body control module/fuse box by the driver's left knee, which also contains the OBD-II diagnostnics port (which itself connects to a dedicated STM8AF52 gateway microcontroller, not one of the in-vehicle CAN networks). For some reason, Hyundai called this BCM/fuse-box a "SJB" (smart junction box) with "IPS" (intelligent power switch). The BCM/SJB is connected to all CAN networks, including the B-CAN network. To turn, the turn signal stalk sends a turn message over B-CAN and the SJB acts accordingly. If you were wondering about the indicators on the side mirrors, they are controlled by each door's control module, which is connected to B-CAN as well.

As for the next steps of my project, I don't want to bother hooking into the B-CAN network and reverse engineering the messaging format. And I bet the gateway micrcontroller that controls the lighting driver ICs has readout protection enabled. So I plan to use a custom PCB to control the front turn signals to match the rear turn signals, and power the side marker circuit when the front signals are powered but the rear signals are not. The front turn signal circuit might have a constant current supply that will provide the wrong voltage to lower resistance LEDs, so I might have to source power elsewhere. And I have to make sure this "remapping" won't make the SJB gateway controller freak out and think a bulb is burnt out. I'm a programmer by training so I'll have to enlist my irl electrical engineering friends for help designing this. Don't expect updates (I've been sitting on this for a year with little progress until today) but I hope I can eventually finish this!
 
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Sorry to semi-necro this thread, but I just finished doing a ton of research and wanted to post the technical explanation for why this is happening. I gleaned details from my own car's wiring harness connectors, a spare SJB circuit board, and a copy of the 2016 GDS diagnostic software with technical diagrams.

In short, our cars were never meant to have the headlight DRL strip! Hyundai appears to have designed the Genesis for 3 price points. The cheapest was intended for China and had downgrades like incandescent rear turn signals and incandescent front headlights. That was never launched. The mid-price is what we got in the US, with HID headlights and the front turn signal used as a DRL. The high-price model had features like a 360 camera (Around View Monitor), self-parking (self parking assist system), brake fluid level sensor, aerodynamic flaps in the lower grille, pedestrian cushioning hood, and DRL strips in the headlights running all the time. Yes, even the 2015 model had all those features in certain markets. (Note: you can't add most of those features to your own car because the wiring harnesses and circuit boards are designed separately for each market, so some wires/connectors will be missing and you won't be able to connect the extra modules.)

Our American models obviously have a DRL strip, so what gives? I think it was added late in production, because if you look at the headlight connector, the DRL pin (#8) is not connected. Our DRL strip is run off of the side marker lights! I'm guessing Hyundai engineers always meant for our incandescent turn signal to function as a running light run during the day and night, so they also intended for it to be a 2-filament bulb so it could withstand constant use. But if the DRL strip was added at the last minute, they may have decided to save a buck and used a single filament bulb, and also keep using the old wiring harness to avoid redesigning it. So they just changed the body control firmware to run the turn signal circuit as a DRL during the daytime, and just run the side markers at night because the last-minute DRL strip is connected to them. I don't have an explanation for why the turn signal bulb isn't run at a low voltage in DRL mode, unless they thought it would respond poorly to that, or it would be difficult to have the ARISU light controller do that. (Notes: I think they called the second filament the "tell-tale lamp", which is a weird misnomer, because everywhere else that's just the formal term for "idiot lights". The side markers are called "parking lamps" and the turn signals are called "turn bulbs".)

So what can we do? Obviously, the easiest long-term fix is to replace the single filament bulb with an LED and resistor that fools the ARISU light control chips into thinking it's still an incandescent bulb, like people in this thread have done.

I wanted to do a fancier fix and control the DRL strip with my own circuit board so it runs during the day. I am rather absentminded so this is going to take a while, but I'll give some technical details here in case any other savvy people want to try. The parking lights are controlled by a ST VND5E025AK driver IC with 2 channels. The channels control the entire left and right sides of the car, from the front side marker to the rear lights to the license plate bulbs. Meanwhile, the Infineon ARISU-LT IC has no documentation, but it appears to have 3 channels. There are 2 of the ARISUs, and each connects to the left/right front turn signal, rear turn signal, and HID headlight bulb with independent channels. High beams are controlled separately by moving a small mirror with a servo. Those ICs are in the body control module/fuse box by the driver's left knee, which also contains the OBD-II diagnostnics port (which itself connects to a dedicated STM8AF52 gateway microcontroller, not one of the in-vehicle CAN networks). For some reason, Hyundai called this BCM/fuse-box a "SJB" (smart junction box) with "IPS" (intelligent power switch). The BCM/SJB is connected to all CAN networks, including the B-CAN network. To turn, the turn signal stalk sends a turn message over B-CAN and the SJB acts accordingly. If you were wondering about the indicators on the side mirrors, they are controlled by each door's control module, which is connected to B-CAN as well.

As for the next steps of my project, I don't want to bother hooking into the B-CAN network and reverse engineering the messaging format. And I bet the gateway micrcontroller that controls the lighting driver ICs has readout protection enabled. So I plan to use a custom PCB to control the front turn signals to match the rear turn signals, and power the side marker circuit when the front signals are powered but the rear signals are not. The front turn signal circuit might have a constant current supply that will provide the wrong voltage to lower resistance LEDs, so I might have to source power elsewhere. And I have to make sure this "remapping" won't make the SJB gateway controller freak out and think a bulb is burnt out. I'm a programmer by training so I'll have to enlist my irl electrical engineering friends for help designing this. Don't expect updates (I've been sitting on this for a year with little progress until today) but I hope I can eventually finish this!
Not to hijack - but I wish you were around for the thread we had going about loading the 2017 9.2" head unit software to the 2015's to enable Apple Car Play functionality.... Short version the 2015 head unit accepted the software and functioned, but we were thwarted by it looking for a newer model amp. So, no sound. It did work if one was willing to procure the newer amp, however. Here's the threat title, if you want to do some "light" reading -

2017/2018 radio swap in 2016 ultimate?​

Never knew about the other "trims" - it sure would be great to have had self parking! As for the grill shutters, they're actually referred to in the US manual a couple of times.
 
Not to hijack - but I wish you were around for the thread we had going about loading the 2017 9.2" head unit software to the 2015's to enable Apple Car Play functionality....
Hi! I actually saw that thread and know about the missing CarPlay - it's why I bought a tech package car instead of the ultimate package. Unfortunately, I have no experience with firmware reverse engineering nor protocol analysis (aside from knowing they are niche skills that are difficult to learn and worth $$$). My post analyzing the SJB is comparatively trivial. So I won't be able to help in that area :-(
 
Hi! I actually saw that thread and know about the missing CarPlay - it's why I bought a tech package car instead of the ultimate package. Unfortunately, I have no experience with firmware reverse engineering nor protocol analysis (aside from knowing they are niche skills that are difficult to learn and worth $$$). My post analyzing the SJB is comparatively trivial. So I won't be able to help in that area :-(
That's OK - the DRL plan/explanation was so far above my head, that I couldn't see the bottom of it.
 
installed the sirius 1157 leds today and it works great with no hyper flashing. much brighter than pilot on the left. pilot has one of the leds fell off on the front. hopefully these will last and it will be a good test with summer coming up here in FL.

one thing to note is the pic on website shows 6 leds per side but one i got only has 4 and design seems to be significantly different. will email them to see whats up with that.

20190323_151336%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg





20190323_152646%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg
20190323_150718%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg
I am confused. I read many articles that say LED's won't. Then you show a pic of them working. I bought a set of 1157 LED and can't get them to work. What is your secret?
 
I replaced the DRL 1157 bulbs with simple LED's - great change....easy....needed to add resistors to eliminate rapid signal flashing. One important note, LED's are sensitive to polarity. One of my turn signal/DRL lights was wired in reverse polarity and I had to correct it. My wife also has a 2015 Genesis and both her lights are wired backwards. Easy fix and not significant if you're using an incandescent bulb, but it's still wrong and must be fixed if you want to use LEDs. I didn't notice this issue when I bought switchback LEDs and assumed that they just didn't work. I ended up returning them and only later saw a thread from another owner who noted the polarity error from Hyundai. Once fixed, everything worked well.
What resistors did you add? Where did you add them?
 
Has anyone found any other bulbs that are plug and play without hyperflashing? It seems the Sirus are out of stock for the moment I've looked a couple of different places trying to get them.
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