The sound pretty good, they are loud when I want them to be. I am going to run a wave today and find out which freq. they have trouble with. I know it is a really low one, but that's because they are 10".
Just swapped out the 3 10" for 2 12" Alpine Type-R.
Now I know I need Dynamat!
Yes you need an LOC to tap into your cars factory amp.
Just swapped out the 3 10" for 2 12" Alpine Type-R.
Now I know I need Dynamat!
I thought I needed a LOC but I read somewhere that its much easier to tap the subwoofer outputs (that go to the sub) and plug those into the high level inputs of my amp.
Am I mistaken?
In case I do need the loc, do I tap the wires before the factory amp or after?
Thanks
First off, do you have a dis or touch screen radio?
I have the dis. I tap into the sub wires right from the amp output, I used an LOC with the fours wires of the output. Which I believe we're orange/yellow/white and black I think. They were easy to reach behind the passenger side panel in the trunk. I used the LOC connected to my amp like regular. And connected my 12 kicker. Sounds awesome enough for me.
How does it sound compared to the 10's?
Question- Can I take the signal from the stock subs and use that for the "high level inputs" for my amp? I read somewhere that I don't need a LOC for "high level inputs".
First off, do you have a dis or touch screen radio?
I have the dis. I tap into the sub wires right from the amp output, I used an LOC with the fours wires of the output. Which I believe we're orange/yellow/white and black I think. They were easy to reach behind the passenger side panel in the trunk. I used the LOC connected to my amp like regular. And connected my 12 kicker. Sounds awesome enough for me.
10's were good for SQ, but lacked heavily in the SP department, and I mean BAD! It was like I added 3 more stock subwoofers. Still nice, but not for a car built as tightly as the Genesis. The 3 10"s went into this girls Chevy Sonic hatch and they perform outrageously for her in that tin box.
The 12s are unreal. I do not use any bass boost and my gain is perfectly in tune. I do not need the other 800W RMS to get them to louder, I would be deaf if I did. If I have my EQ set to 0 and VOL at 18+, I will need to have my sunshade up or it will bounce several inches in the decklid.
I am certain I have the loudest Genesis in MN. My right ear feels like it has a cold because it is closest to the pass-thru.
I did the same, tapped into the output from my amp that runs to the subwoofer.
Wires: WL+ 12(yellow) WL- 25(black) WR+ 13(brown) WR- 26(white)
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Some have run longer wires and tapped directly from the sub connections with splicers. (look a few pages back in this thread)
10's were good for SQ, but lacked heavily in the SP department, and I mean BAD! It was like I added 3 more stock subwoofers. Still nice, but not for a car built as tightly as the Genesis. The 3 10"s went into this girls Chevy Sonic hatch and they perform outrageously for her in that tin box.
The 12s are unreal. I do not use any bass boost and my gain is perfectly in tune. I do not need the other 800W RMS to get them to louder, I would be deaf if I did. If I have my EQ set to 0 and VOL at 18+, I will need to have my sunshade up or it will bounce several inches in the decklid.
I am certain I have the loudest Genesis in MN. My right ear feels like it has a cold because it is closest to the pass-thru.
I did the same, tapped into the output from my amp that runs to the subwoofer.
Wires: WL+ 12(yellow) WL- 25(black) WR+ 13(brown) WR- 26(white)
![]()
Some have run longer wires and tapped directly from the sub connections with splicers. (look a few pages back in this thread)
It could be the type of 10's you had... I'm going x2 RE Audio SXX10D2 in ported box tune to 32 hz
Has anyone tested to see if removing the factory sub makes a difference in how the aftermarket sub sounds?
Im gonna be adding a sub soon and want to know if it makes a diff.
Thanks