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Hyundai only one to reset air suspension?

Going through this right now with my 2104 Equus. Car would be fine then the rear would be down in the mornings Started leaving it up on HIGH at night and it was better Then 4 days ago the rear bottomed out while driving. Replaced both rear bags (have a wrecked Equus for parts as it was really cheap) and now the back bags are all of the way up and can't get them down. Tried to reset the system with my Autel scanner and it just stays pumped all of the way up

Any suggestions?
 
Going through this right now with my 2104 Equus. Car would be fine then the rear would be down in the mornings Started leaving it up on HIGH at night and it was better Then 4 days ago the rear bottomed out while driving. Replaced both rear bags (have a wrecked Equus for parts as it was really cheap) and now the back bags are all of the way up and can't get them down. Tried to reset the system with my Autel scanner and it just stays pumped all of the way up

Any suggestions?
 
I was told to reset by disconnecting battery ,there is a you tube video showing guy doing it to reset air suspension
 
I was told to reset by disconnecting battery ,there is a you tube video showing guy doing it to reset air suspension
Worthless in my case Didn’t change anything
 
Worthless in my case Didn’t change anything
Made my own filler and it worked Didn’t solve my issue but was able to get air into the system Think I still have a leak someplace Replaced both back bags with used bags
 

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I like that, what fittings are those; sizes, thread, etc.
 
The female fitting to the car is 14x1.5mm My first fitting I found on Amazon and this allowed me to go from metric to NPT


I also got the Schrader valve on Amazon


The rest of the fittings I got at Lowe's You are going from 1/2 NPT to 1/4 NPT then the riser and the female fitting for the valve on top

No seal on the fitting to the car but I didn't have any issue with leaks
 
The female fitting to the car is 14x1.5mm My first fitting I found on Amazon and this allowed me to go from metric to NPT


I also got the Schrader valve on Amazon


The rest of the fittings I got at Lowe's You are going from 1/2 NPT to 1/4 NPT then the riser and the female fitting for the valve on top

No seal on the fitting to the car but I didn't have any issue with leaks
Just built this. You are the absolute man. Im having to replace my solenoid valve for the air suspension, and REALLY didnt want to take it to Hyundai to get them to air it up. I appreciate you listing the parts for us.
Also, to add to this. If anyone is having issues with the bags holding air, then suddenly they stop working, it might be worth looking into diagnosing the Solenoid Valve thats mounted by the suspension. Mine will stick open sometimes, causing the rear bags to deflate and the car to drop it like its hot. You can get one from Reman Tech for 200 to 300, or buy a cheapy off ebay for 60 to 80. Also, it helps to have a scan tool as well, recommend picking up an Xtool branded one (I have the IP819) and it saved me about 600 dollars when my ECM fried itself. I was able to buy the ECM from Hyundai online for 1300 (Ouch) and the XTool for 400. Plugged everything in, wrote the VIN to the ECM and then was able to use the key fob to push the button and start the car. Which beats my local stealership wanting to charge me 3k for towing it, replacing the part, and "programming" it. It will also let you fill/vent the struts and air suspension system.
 
Just built this. You are the absolute man. Im having to replace my solenoid valve for the air suspension, and REALLY didnt want to take it to Hyundai to get them to air it up. I appreciate you listing the parts for us.
Also, to add to this. If anyone is having issues with the bags holding air, then suddenly they stop working, it might be worth looking into diagnosing the Solenoid Valve thats mounted by the suspension. Mine will stick open sometimes, causing the rear bags to deflate and the car to drop it like its hot. You can get one from Reman Tech for 200 to 300, or buy a cheapy off ebay for 60 to 80. Also, it helps to have a scan tool as well, recommend picking up an Xtool branded one (I have the IP819) and it saved me about 600 dollars when my ECM fried itself. I was able to buy the ECM from Hyundai online for 1300 (Ouch) and the XTool for 400. Plugged everything in, wrote the VIN to the ECM and then was able to use the key fob to push the button and start the car. Which beats my local stealership wanting to charge me 3k for towing it, replacing the part, and "programming" it. It will also let you fill/vent the struts and air suspension system.
I have an extra one ..150 plus shipping
 
To make the strut master conversion do you need any special tools to remove the OEM or to install the strut master kit?
 
I'll answer my own question. No you do not.

Friday I switched out my suspension to the Strut Masters, the process couldn't of been easier. It took me about 4.5 hours from beginning to end. Then I went to have my car aligned, it rides great. You can tell the difference from the air suspension to the shocks, but it's not major at all. I'm very satisfied with the transition.
 
Hey, I know this is an older thread, but there are ways to fix this economically. I had the same issues, sagging front end. I bought RMT remanufactured struts and installed. After installation I calibrated them using the autotel scanner that connects via bluetooth. That scanner can be set to region-specific and car specific. I was able to inject air with my craftsman air compressor (which is essential)d, just make sure you use the correct port and calibrated my tires/wheels just like they do at the dealership. Really the most difficult part of the job is separating the ball joints. Everything else is a piece of cake. Really not a tough job at all. If you have a dual point leak down (front driver and front passenger) I doubt it's a solenoid. Usually, one or both of the struts have failed. I inspected my old struts and aside from the old accordion cover being brittle, I couldn't find any leaks. The air suspension is extremely simple - air goes in and without leaks, the struts shouldn't deflate. If they deflate, then you have a leak and that's where the fun begins, chasing the leak. But 10 out of 10 it's the struts that go bad. Again, buy a pancake compressor, get the right fitting and you'll fix in no time.
I'm in the processing of trying to calibrate my own with the scanner. I've replaced the whole suspension myself. Everything is back connected and plugged in. My compressor will not come on I'm guessing because all the air had to be let out. I've changed the the air inlet port with a 1/4inch Schrader valve so I can air up the shocks manually hoping the compressor wil kick on but I can't get the car to raise. It sounds like the air is going in the reservoir but it doesn't raise. Any suggestions or what could it be?
 
I'm in the processing of trying to calibrate my own with the scanner. I've replaced the whole suspension myself. Everything is back connected and plugged in. My compressor will not come on I'm guessing because all the air had to be let out. I've changed the the air inlet port with a 1/4inch Schrader valve so I can air up the shocks manually hoping the compressor wil kick on but I can't get the car to raise. It sounds like the air is going in the reservoir but it doesn't raise. Any suggestions or what could it be?
So first of all, I would check and make sure the ECS module isnt throwing any codes. If you have the little triangle with the ! mark on in the dash, and "Check ECS Module" on the infoscreen, Id give that a gander to make sure its nothing major.

Also, I know that the solenoid valve needs to see at least 70 to 80 psi of pressure in the air tank for the system to properly function. So make sure whatever source you are using to fill the air tank is capable of that, and I would do at least 120 psi, if possible. I use a 200 psi air compressor from harbor freight, just one of the little portable Fortress ones. And it works amazing.

Also, your problem might be that you need to use the scan tool to fill the struts one by one first. I dont know what kind of scan tool you are using, but I know that the scan tool that I have, once you enter the ECS module, you can fill the air springs and struts one by one. I usually have to fill the back two, refill the air tank, then refill the front two. Just make sure your car is jacked up and the tires are off the ground while you do this, or it might not air up the springs/struts properly.
 
So first of all, I would check and make sure the ECS module isnt throwing any codes. If you have the little triangle with the ! mark on in the dash, and "Check ECS Module" on the infoscreen, Id give that a gander to make sure its nothing major.

Also, I know that the solenoid valve needs to see at least 70 to 80 psi of pressure in the air tank for the system to properly function. So make sure whatever source you are using to fill the air tank is capable of that, and I would do at least 120 psi, if possible. I use a 200 psi air compressor from harbor freight, just one of the little portable Fortress ones. And it works amazing.

Also, your problem might be that you need to use the scan tool to fill the struts one by one first. I dont know what kind of scan tool you are using, but I know that the scan tool that I have, once you enter the ECS module, you can fill the air springs and struts one by one. I usually have to fill the back two, refill the air tank, then refill the front two. Just make sure your car is jacked up and the tires are off the ground while you do this, or it might not air up the springs/struts properly.
Thanks, yea lifting the car off the ground helped fill it up.
 
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Awesome! Glad you were able to get that done.
I'm having an issue with the emergency operating brake lever in this 2014 Equus. You know anything about those areas or parts?
 
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