Oil Change DIY - 3.8 V6 Genesis Sedan

[Fredder]

I have always had the dealer do the oil changes but will do them myself going forward.
I have changed oil many times but have one question on the top mounted filter on my 2011.
Is it obvious where the little "o" ring goes?
The very good write up says at the bottom of the stick.
Can anyone show me a picture or explain where it is located
many thanks

No responses, but I have figured out where this little o ring goes

 

[Oceandrive]

Does it mean oil - 5W-30 or 5W-20 doesn't really matter?

 

[G-921159]

Does it mean oil - 5W-30 or 5W-20 doesn't really matter?

The recommended is 5w20
This gives best gas mileage
5w30 is also approved
I just went from 20 to 30 because at high temperatures the 30 gives better protection
The 5 indicates flow rate at zero degrees so both 20 and 30 start flowing at the same rate
Hope this helps you

 

[jsahadi]

Since there's no good step-by-step yet, I decided to make one to help out the other shade tree mechanics. This is also an attempt to gather together the various info needed so we have the correct info in the correct place - if you see something missing - speak up! As far as oil changes go, this car is pretty simple.

What you'll need:

• New Hyundai oil filter kit:

• Ramps or a jack and jack stands
• 6 quarts of oil - 5W-30 or 5W-20
• Oil pan that can hold at least 6 qt
• Funnel
• 17mm socket and driver ratchet
• 27mm box/crescent wrench or socket
• Size #0-1 flathead screwdriver (maybe a hole punch will work, or other small prying tool)
• Torque wrench(s) that can handle 18-33 lb ft
• Rubber mallet
• Needle nose pliers
• Rubber gloves to keep your hands clean
• Some shop rags
• Newspaper or other large coverage material to catch any errant oil
• Flashlight
• Clear work surface


Oil change interval for normal use is every 7,500 miles. Get a Blackstone Labs ( http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php ) used oil analysis after your first 10k mi and see if you are okay with that interval or can adjust it.


Getting started:

Prep your work surface - have your tools, oil and filter handy and place a cover on your work surface to catch oil.

Make sure the engine is warm/hot.

Pull of the engine cover. It is secured with four plug-connectors. Stand on the right or left and simply tug upwards and they will pop off. Place the cover someplace out of the way. Depending on how you set up, you may want to put down a ground cover now to catch any errant oil.

Here's the bottom of the engine cover - note the four plug connectors:

Either drive the car's front wheels up on ramps or jack the front of the car up and place your jack stands under the frame rails. DO NOT go under a jacked-up car without jack stands. Be sure to apply the parking brake in either case.

The way the oil pan is designed, ramps work very well as the oil drain bolt is on the back of the pan - inclining the car seems to work for you when draining the oil.

A note on jacking: If you jack the car to get to the drain bolt, you are probably best served by jacking one side of the car to remove the bolt, and then dropping the car back to level ground. To do this, you need to be sure that the drain pan clears the bottom of the car and that as you lower the car, the draining oil continues to hit the pan. Otherwise, just jack up both sides of the front.


Drain the oil

Unscrew the oil fill cap and place it someplace safe.

Cover the ground under the car if you have not already done so. If you're using rubber gloves, put them on.

Take the 17mm socket, rubber mallet, and your drain pan and slide under the car. The bottom of the engine bay is covered with a plastic undertray but dead center is the opening for the oil bolt.

Apply the 17mm socket and use the rubber mallet to knock it loose. Once it is loose, place the oil pan under the drain bolt so its leading edge is directly under the bolt and the rest of the pan is toward the rear of the car. Once oil starts flowing it will initially arc out of the pan before it starts to drip straight down, so you want to catch that initial surge.

Continue to unscrew the oil drain bolt by hand until its completely off - try to keep it from dropping into the oil drain pan as it comes loose. If you drop it in, try and grab it quickly if the oil is not too hot. You'll want it so you can replace the crush washer.

Now that the oil is draining, its time to work on the filter. Crawl back out from under the car with your tools and the drain plug. If you jacked the car up, you may want to drop it back down now while the oil changes and we work on the top of the engine.


Replace the filter and seals

Place the drain plug on your work surface - we'll come back to it later.

The 3.8 V6's oil filter resides on the back of the engine by the firewall, but other than that, its easy to get to.

Take the 27mm wrench or socket and rubber mallet and knock the cover loose. Once loose, continue to unscrew the cover. It took me around 16-17 1/4 turns to get it so I could loosen it by hand.

Once the cover is free, carefully lift it up and out of the engine. Note it will be oily so you may want a shop rag to catch any drip. Place the cartridge on your work surface.

Open your new filter and makes sure all the parts are accounted for. The Hyundai filter comes with a filter, crush washer, and three o-rings of different sizes. For the V6, we don't need the V8 o-ring.

Remove the old filter from the cartridge by tugging on it. Its only held on by friction, but being covered in oil, it can be slick. Make sure the old filter and new filter look identical and have the same part numbers. Note that Hyundai has changed the part number a few times in the past.

If your new filter looks good, proceed by removing the rubber o-rings from the cartridge. There is a large o-ring near the top of the cartridge and a small o-ring at the bottom of the cartridge stem.

The top ring is easy to replace but the bottom ring can be tricky. The top ring you can pretty much remove and replace by hand. Use the #0 screwdriver, needle nose pliers or small prying tool to pop it off and carefully install the replacement. Dip your finger into your new oil and apply a coat to the two o-rings. This will keep them from binding to the engine.

Now remove the old crush washer from the drain bolt. You might need the #0 screwdriver here as well to pop it loose. Place the new crush washer on the bolt.

Pop the new filter into the cartridge. Push it firmly up so it pops in. If its not on enough, the cartridge will not screw back into the engine.

Place the cartridge with the new filter back into the engine. Hand tighten, then screw down until seated. Torque it to 18.4 lb ft.


Replace the oil

Get back under the car and hand tighten the drain bolt into the oil pan. Slide the now full oil drain pan out of the way and torque the drain bolt to 30 lb ft. Slide the full oil drain pan out from under the car and set it aside somewhere out of the way.

Place your funnel into the oil fill neck, and fill the engine with 5 quarts of your chosen engine oil.

Remove the funnel and place the cap on the oil filler neck. Start the car and idle it for a minute to circulate the oil. Shut the car off - if you quickly check the dipstick, you should see that the oil level is a half-quart low. As the engine sits, oil from the engine drains into the pan and raises the reading.

Based on your readings, add up to an additional 0.5 qt to the engine for 5.5 qt total.
Remember, as much as you don't want to be too low on oil, nor do you want to have too much oil! The owner's manual calls for 5.5 qts of oil, which what we'll be putting in. Double check that no oil is leaking from the drain bolt or cartridge.

If everything is good, replace the engine cover. I find its easiest to start on the driver's side to align and push down on the cover, then tug the passenger side into place.

Make sure all your tools are accounted for, and close the hood. Place the old oil into the new oil containers and take it to a place that will properly dispose of it, like Wal-Mart, Sears, Autozone, et al.

Great job! Any idea if the 2011 3.8 has another drain bolt at the bottom of the car for the oil filter like 2012 v8? Ive looked but it doesnt seem like it.

 

[justincheckin]

Great job! Any idea if the 2011 3.8 has another drain bolt at the bottom of the car for the oil filter like 2012 v8? Ive looked but it doesnt seem like it.

I just did mine today, thanks for the instruction OP! Bought a plastic set of rhino ramps for the job.

I used exactly 5.5 qts (I poured about 0.3qt of it on the new oil filter as it soaked and absorbed the new oil - I do this on my honda as well)
I used FRAM CH10515 (the filter is a bit shorter than the one I took out but height compensated with plastic top and bottom housing, and it's supposed to be compatible), and it came with a crush washer and the big and tiny O-Ring. I lubed the rings and the plastic screw top for the filter housing so it goes in smooth. I threw away the middle sized o-ring included. The old crush washer was a pain to remove but using a big plier I was able to screw it out after 10 minutes.

Just 1 drain bolt in the middle for the motor oil. The filter is on top.

Now if someone has done the transmission oil change here I'd be interested to read it or watch it on You-Tube (none found).

Anyone changed their power steering fluid? I planned on just suctioning it and filling it.

 

[l2iceman]

Did my oil change today. This guide was a great read through to prep and ensure I had the right tools (ie 27mm socket for the filter housing cap), thanks!

 

[PRINCE KEN]

Since there's no good step-by-step yet, I decided to make one to help out the other shade tree mechanics. This is also an attempt to gather together the various info needed so we have the correct info in the correct place - if you see something missing - speak up! As far as oil changes go, this car is pretty simple.

What you'll need:

• New Hyundai oil filter kit:

• Ramps or a jack and jack stands
• 6 quarts of oil - 5W-30 or 5W-20
• Oil pan that can hold at least 6 qt
• Funnel
• 17mm socket and driver ratchet
• 27mm box/crescent wrench or socket
• Size #0-1 flathead screwdriver (maybe a hole punch will work, or other small prying tool)
• Torque wrench(s) that can handle 18-33 lb ft
• Rubber mallet
• Needle nose pliers
• Rubber gloves to keep your hands clean
• Some shop rags
• Newspaper or other large coverage material to catch any errant oil
• Flashlight
• Clear work surface


Oil change interval for normal use is every 7,500 miles. Get a Blackstone Labs ( http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php ) used oil analysis after your first 10k mi and see if you are okay with that interval or can adjust it.


Getting started:

Prep your work surface - have your tools, oil and filter handy and place a cover on your work surface to catch oil.

Make sure the engine is warm/hot.

Pull of the engine cover. It is secured with four plug-connectors. Stand on the right or left and simply tug upwards and they will pop off. Place the cover someplace out of the way. Depending on how you set up, you may want to put down a ground cover now to catch any errant oil.

Here's the bottom of the engine cover - note the four plug connectors:

Either drive the car's front wheels up on ramps or jack the front of the car up and place your jack stands under the frame rails. DO NOT go under a jacked-up car without jack stands. Be sure to apply the parking brake in either case.

The way the oil pan is designed, ramps work very well as the oil drain bolt is on the back of the pan - inclining the car seems to work for you when draining the oil.

A note on jacking: If you jack the car to get to the drain bolt, you are probably best served by jacking one side of the car to remove the bolt, and then dropping the car back to level ground. To do this, you need to be sure that the drain pan clears the bottom of the car and that as you lower the car, the draining oil continues to hit the pan. Otherwise, just jack up both sides of the front.


Drain the oil

Unscrew the oil fill cap and place it someplace safe.

Cover the ground under the car if you have not already done so. If you're using rubber gloves, put them on.

Take the 17mm socket, rubber mallet, and your drain pan and slide under the car. The bottom of the engine bay is covered with a plastic undertray but dead center is the opening for the oil bolt.

Apply the 17mm socket and use the rubber mallet to knock it loose. Once it is loose, place the oil pan under the drain bolt so its leading edge is directly under the bolt and the rest of the pan is toward the rear of the car. Once oil starts flowing it will initially arc out of the pan before it starts to drip straight down, so you want to catch that initial surge.

Continue to unscrew the oil drain bolt by hand until its completely off - try to keep it from dropping into the oil drain pan as it comes loose. If you drop it in, try and grab it quickly if the oil is not too hot. You'll want it so you can replace the crush washer.

Now that the oil is draining, its time to work on the filter. Crawl back out from under the car with your tools and the drain plug. If you jacked the car up, you may want to drop it back down now while the oil changes and we work on the top of the engine.


Replace the filter and seals

Place the drain plug on your work surface - we'll come back to it later.

The 3.8 V6's oil filter resides on the back of the engine by the firewall, but other than that, its easy to get to.

Take the 27mm wrench or socket and rubber mallet and knock the cover loose. Once loose, continue to unscrew the cover. It took me around 16-17 1/4 turns to get it so I could loosen it by hand.

Once the cover is free, carefully lift it up and out of the engine. Note it will be oily so you may want a shop rag to catch any drip. Place the cartridge on your work surface.

Open your new filter and makes sure all the parts are accounted for. The Hyundai filter comes with a filter, crush washer, and three o-rings of different sizes. For the V6, we don't need the V8 o-ring.

Remove the old filter from the cartridge by tugging on it. Its only held on by friction, but being covered in oil, it can be slick. Make sure the old filter and new filter look identical and have the same part numbers. Note that Hyundai has changed the part number a few times in the past.

If your new filter looks good, proceed by removing the rubber o-rings from the cartridge. There is a large o-ring near the top of the cartridge and a small o-ring at the bottom of the cartridge stem.

The top ring is easy to replace but the bottom ring can be tricky. The top ring you can pretty much remove and replace by hand. Use the #0 screwdriver, needle nose pliers or small prying tool to pop it off and carefully install the replacement. Dip your finger into your new oil and apply a coat to the two o-rings. This will keep them from binding to the engine.

Now remove the old crush washer from the drain bolt. You might need the #0 screwdriver here as well to pop it loose. Place the new crush washer on the bolt.

Pop the new filter into the cartridge. Push it firmly up so it pops in. If its not on enough, the cartridge will not screw back into the engine.

Place the cartridge with the new filter back into the engine. Hand tighten, then screw down until seated. Torque it to 18.4 lb ft.


Replace the oil

Get back under the car and hand tighten the drain bolt into the oil pan. Slide the now full oil drain pan out of the way and torque the drain bolt to 30 lb ft. Slide the full oil drain pan out from under the car and set it aside somewhere out of the way.

Place your funnel into the oil fill neck, and fill the engine with 5 quarts of your chosen engine oil.

Remove the funnel and place the cap on the oil filler neck. Start the car and idle it for a minute to circulate the oil. Shut the car off - if you quickly check the dipstick, you should see that the oil level is a half-quart low. As the engine sits, oil from the engine drains into the pan and raises the reading.

Based on your readings, add up to an additional 0.5 qt to the engine for 5.5 qt total.
Remember, as much as you don't want to be too low on oil, nor do you want to have too much oil! The owner's manual calls for 5.5 qts of oil, which what we'll be putting in. Double check that no oil is leaking from the drain bolt or cartridge.

If everything is good, replace the engine cover. I find its easiest to start on the driver's side to align and push down on the cover, then tug the passenger side into place.

Make sure all your tools are accounted for, and close the hood. Place the old oil into the new oil containers and take it to a place that will properly dispose of it, like Wal-Mart, Sears, Autozone, et al.

Man that's very kind of you to take your precious time to lay it all down like that even though most of us know how to change oils nowadays Thank you plenty anyways "shade tree mechanics" That's hilarious

 

[shahhere]

Anyone using 0W-20 Oil? I got myself a good deal on the Extended Life M1 and am thinking if I can use that oil as I sit around 69,000 miles.

I had a Fumoto valve but recently got an extension and the fit is much better.

Shahhere

 

[user0209]

Does it mean oil - 5W-30 or 5W-20 doesn't really matter?

The recommended is 5w20
This gives best gas mileage
5w30 is also approved
I just went from 20 to 30 because at high temperatures the 30 gives better protection
The 5 indicates flow rate at zero degrees so both 20 and 30 start flowing at the same rate
Hope this helps you

Can I even mix 5w-30 and 5w-20?

Reason being my mechanic replaced my engine but wouldn't tell me which oil he used, other than "I got oil and filter from the dealer".

Today I checked the oil level for a reason it was a quarter below the F mark, so I poured in some 5w-30 full synth WALMART brand that I got on hand. I can't imagine a case where a possible mixing would be a problem, unless these oils separate like water and oil.

 

[joegr]

Can I even mix 5w-30 and 5w-20?

....

Yes, no problem.

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[Shady_panda]

Can I even mix 5w-30 and 5w-20?

Reason being my mechanic replaced my engine but wouldn't tell me which oil he used, other than "I got oil and filter from the dealer".

Today I checked the oil level for a reason it was a quarter below the F mark, so I poured in some 5w-30 full synth WALMART brand that I got on hand. I can't imagine a case where a possible mixing would be a problem, unless these oils separate like water and oil.

thats fine as long as it is same brand.

I actually do this with Amsoil, 2qt of 5w-20 and 5qt of 5w-30.

 

[user0209]

Yes. There are some old threads on this problem. Dealer service managers are either don't know (service techs don't tell them) or are just lying. I will give your service manager the benefit of the doubt and say it is number one (techs don't tell him). But it is real and I have done extensive testing of the problem, trying all kinds of different ways to check the dipstick level in an attempt to figure it out (with oil filler cap off vs on, right after engine shut down vs wait at least 5 min, etc). One theory about this is that the oil filter on top of engine drains into crankcase very quickly after shutdown, making it appear that the oil level is over-filled.

When I change my oil, I use an oil suction pump inside the dipstick and move the drain tube around inside the crankcase to make sure I get as much oil as possible. When I do a thorough job of that, then I can put in 5.5 quarts and have the oil at the full level (not above that). But when oil is drained from the bottom, adding 5.5 quarts will cause the oil level to be much higher than the full mark on the dipstick.

The factory fill on my car was well above the full mark on my dipstick, so it sounds like Hyundai engineers don't even know what is going on. Questions to Hyundai dealers and to HMA have fallen on deaf ears. This is why Hyundai will never be a Toyota or Honda. They just don't give a damn.

First, kudos to Mark_888 and all the guys like you for your passion with car and sharing.

May I ask you and anyone knowledgeable these questions:

-After you run the car, let it cool off for 5 or 10 minutes, check the dip stick, where should the oil level be?

-Is it safe to have it slightly above the Full mark?

-Is oil brand and possibly grade (5w-20 vs 5w-30) affecting this issue ?
In an attempt to resolve EGR/VVT monitor not ready for smog check, a shop ran the car and got P0021 code to show up (and ironically get EGR/VVT green!!). New to me.

P0021 is " the camshaft actuator is leaving the timing too far advanced, or there is a system performance issue (not working right)." Or my shop note: "recommend to replace left intake camshaft oil control solenoid"

One of possible causes:

• Engine Oil– If the engine oil is dirty or low, it may cause the actuator to function improperly. Also, the oil viscosity can be off

I'm thinking to try to fill up the oil level beyond Full mark. Or, change the oil and put in Penzoid Full synth 5w-30. No idea what oil and grade my mechanic changed 700 miles ago when he switched out the engine for me.



I could use any ideas, insights from you folks. Thanks

 

[jessegr]

No responses, but I have figured out where this little o ring goes

Where does it go? When I got the housing out, only the large o-ring was present. I am assuming previous shop didn't bother putting the small o-ring on. I pushed the smaller o-ring past the nub as far back as I could before reading the prongs. Was this correct?