• Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop
  • Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my car" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your G70, please post in the G70 section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.

Sedan Subwoofer install

I've tried looking on HyundaiTechinfo and paid for a week subscription but it doesn't even show the pinout for my specific car (2015 3.8 Tech) I've got everything hooked up except for the signal to my LC2i
 
That's for the 17 speaker system, the harness' in the 14 speaker system are different, the white is on the bottom and the grey one is on the top. and the colors still don't match up on either connector. (2015 with tech package) Do you know the colors/pinout for the 14 speaker system?


To repeat my disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk, as I accept zero responsibility for your attempt to wire your own equipment or any resulting damage that could occur by utilizing the following information.


The 2015 5.0 and 3.8 Model's Amp, listed as "W/ JBL and W/O AV" has the White Harness on the Bottom and the Grey one on the Top. I count 12 Speakers on the White Connector and two on the Grey (Center and Woofer). Both of the larger connectors appear to look the same (22 pins with Pin 1 and 12 on the exterior).

Open end facing you, and the Pinch Tab on the top, here's the pin config for the Grey Connector:

12......11/10 /9 / 8 / 7 / 6 / 5 /4 / 3 / 2........ 1
.........22/21/20/19/18/17/16/15/14/13..........

It's pinout looks just like the one in my system, except the single woofer wires are represented by Pin 22 (Grey with Black Stripe) as Positive (+) and Pin 21 (Blue with Orange Stripe) as Negative (-).​



The 2015 5.0 and 3.8 Model's AMP, listed as "W/O JBL", has 2 White Harnesses. It looks like that system has two standard woofers.

The bottom White 26 Pin Connector, Open end facing you, and the Pinch Tab on the top, has the following pin config:

13 /12/11/10/ 9 / 8 / 7 / 6 / 5 / 4 / 3 / 2 /1
26/25/24/23/22/21/20/19/18/17/16/15/14

Woofer 1 has Pin 13 (Brown w/ Black Stripe) as the Positive (+) and Pin 26 (Blue w/ Black Stripe) as Negative (-).

Woofer 2 has Pin 13 (Black w/ Orange Stripe) as the Positive (+) and Pin 25 (Green w/ Black Stripe) as Negative (-).​
 
Last edited:
My apologies if this has been mentioned already, but don't forget that all the factory systems in Hyundai cars (and most others) include fixed line-level equalization for the individual channels. In the Genesis, the Harman engineers listen to the near-final system in a Genesis mule, then modify the response on individual channels.

This is a "fixed" EQ that will be physically present in either the head unit or in the amplifier (wherever there's room).

So taking the amp output to a line level converter will result in a bass EQ that is designed for the stock sub, not whatever you aftermarket solution you decide on.

Just sayin', you might need to do a lot of tweaking to get the response you want.
 
My apologies if this has been mentioned already, but don't forget that all the factory systems in Hyundai cars (and most others) include fixed line-level equalization for the individual channels. In the Genesis, the Harman engineers listen to the near-final system in a Genesis mule, then modify the response on individual channels.

This is a "fixed" EQ that will be physically present in either the head unit or in the amplifier (wherever there's room).

So taking the amp output to a line level converter will result in a bass EQ that is designed for the stock sub, not whatever you aftermarket solution you decide on.

Just sayin', you might need to do a lot of tweaking to get the response you want.

Excellent points and very true. I did my own (albeit not with the best of instruments) analysis on the response being provided off of the already tuned feed of the sub-woofer line outs from the amp.

The response frequencies seem to be nominal with an average upgrade. In my case, 10 inch woofers being added was within the proper range of the signal being produced. There is a drop off at 31Hz that will leave some 12 and 15 inch woofers under utilized in the lower end of the Hertz scale. But, it should still make a nice mix with the already tuned speakers in the cab.
 
Just tried to install mine this weekend. LC2i doesn't want to work. I have the 17 speaker Lexicon, and I have tapped off the sub wires (disconnected them completely). I didnt run a remote wire to the LC2i, I was hoping the GTO would work, but it doesnt seem to be sensing signal. If I give the LC2i a 12v remote power, it powers on fine. Ideas?
 
Just tried to install mine this weekend. LC2i doesn't want to work. I have the 17 speaker Lexicon, and I have tapped off the sub wires (disconnected them completely). I didnt run a remote wire to the LC2i, I was hoping the GTO would work, but it doesnt seem to be sensing signal. If I give the LC2i a 12v remote power, it powers on fine. Ideas?

So you do have the GTO jumper on Enable, not Bypass, right?
 
These might be some better pictures of the rear amp wiring...
 

Attachments

  • Ultimate.webp
    Ultimate.webp
    36.2 KB · Views: 343
  • Non Ultimate.webp
    Non Ultimate.webp
    42.3 KB · Views: 321
Yeah, I have it set to enable. I am tempted to call AudioControl. Since I am only feeding it a single channel from one speaker into the L channel on the LC2i, I wonder if it isnt enough power. I tried connecting the R channel as well, still doesn't work.

Is everyone else who is doing this only connecting 1 channel from the factory amp? I just used the wires for the factory subwoofer.
 
Anything below 30hz is gone thanks to the factory amp.

Sounds like a good opportunity to tap into a full-range signal that is being presented to the input side of the amp - rather than on the output side.
 
I may be doing this soon.
 
Sounds like a good opportunity to tap into a full-range signal that is being presented to the input side of the amp - rather than on the output side.


I believe the inputs to these amps is all digital...good luck breaking that out!
 
I promised myself I wouldn't screw with the audio, and as full and rich and buzzword and so on, I like some punch in the low end, so I'm gonna put on my stylin FNH hat and my Oakley's I just put some kick ass Swiss lenses in and take the .338 to the range, now THAT is some low end punch. Oh yeah, got a sub today too.

20160421_174315_zpshlrhh1a5.jpg
 
Looking to update and upgrade your Genesis luxury sport automobile? Look no further than right here in our own forum store - where orders are shipped immediately!
So far I am a bit disappointed with the sub install in my Genny. It's a JL Audio 12TW3 still in the old box I used for my truck. My issue is the trunk is so well insulated from the cabin that unless I have the rear seat ski door open you hardly hear/feel any of it. This same sub/amp combo used to absolutely pound my Tundra.

I don't want to cut any holes in the back bulkhead or remove the stock sub, etc... Any ideas?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160325_161619.webp
    IMG_20160325_161619.webp
    59.2 KB · Views: 251
  • IMG_20160325_161232.webp
    IMG_20160325_161232.webp
    125.7 KB · Views: 243
Not sure I would say the trunk is well insulated, sounds more like a freq or gain or lastly and least likely power source issue. Where are you getting your signal from? And what are you doing w said signal?
 
So far I am a bit disappointed with the sub install in my Genny.
Any ideas?

Yes...
Check to make sure you haven't reversed polarity on the JL sub...it will cancel with the original sub.

Also Rule of thumb with ANY sub is 3 things:
1. location
2. location
3. location

Now place you sub furthest from driver all the way in the back and you will hear a difference!
Placing the sub directly under the factory sub is NOT the best place

Good luck
 
Last edited:
I promised myself I wouldn't screw with the audio, and as full and rich and buzzword and so on, I like some punch in the low end, so I'm gonna put on my stylin FNH hat and my Oakley's I just put some kick ass Swiss lenses in and take the .338 to the range, now THAT is some low end punch. Oh yeah, got a sub today too.

20160421_174315_zpshlrhh1a5.jpg

Nice! That's the same sub (10"?) I'm aiming to get too. I'm still doing more research to prepare for the purchase and the install. Let us know how it goes...install and post install results. Good luck!

EDIT... Doh! I see it's a 12" after zooming in. Very NICE! For me, the 10" will be plenty from my experience with the JLA enclosed sub in my old Camry.
 
Last edited:
I found the amp which is located in the trunk lift side hidden in the sidings.

Now, does anyone know which wire connects to the subwoofer?
 
Back
Top