If the replacement taillight does not solve the issue then I will look into the wiring. I hope is just a defective LED circuit board.It could be a frayed wire in the trunk harness which is a common malady discussed in a few posts.
Yeah, I really wish there was a setting for "only used the brakes if something is in front of you."Thus far after nearly two months I really only have one dislike, and that's to do with the behavior of the cruise control. If you are in a 55 and suddenly enter a 45 zone, and you use the steering wheel switches to drop your speed incrementally, the car actually will brake as you reduce the target speed. This is annoying. The work around is obviously to use the cancel button, coast, and then set a new speed, but I haven't gotten used to that yet.
It is attempting to keep the speed set. You can avoid speeding tickets that way. It will slow on hills too. Just tap the speed down slower and it will not apply the brakes.Thus far after nearly two months I really only have one dislike, and that's to do with the behavior of the cruise control. If you are in a 55 and suddenly enter a 45 zone, and you use the steering wheel switches to drop your speed incrementally, the car actually will brake as you reduce the target speed. This is annoying. The work around is obviously to use the cancel button, coast, and then set a new speed, but I haven't gotten used to that yet.
Darn!!!! You are correct. The issue is not the taillight. I checked the new and the old inner passenger trunk taillight by plugging both into the working driver side inner taillight connector and both the lights worked.It could be a frayed wire in the trunk harness which is a common malady discussed in a few posts.
You probably right. If it is a ground issue then the turn signal led would not work as well. I hate troubleshooting wiring, but I got no choice.If it's like all the other issues of this type, including mine.
It is not a ground issue. It's a broken wire issue.
Right where the wire bundle flexes with the trunk opening.
Yeah, pretty easy to be honest. It is a pain removing the trunk liner trim , but no big deal overall.this. pretty easy repair compared to replacing the entire harness which dealers actually did under warranty.
The issues are not too bad, however if I was not electrically or mechanically savvy than it would be an serious issue if the dealer or a mechanic was fixing these issues out of pocket.This is just one of the reasons I no longer have my 2015 Genesis. I still miss the car but not the problems.
Compared to my old Infiniti G35, my 90K 5.0 has been like driving for free. I spent close to 5k on that one in repairs between 70 - 112k miles (when I sold it). In that time the G ate an alternator, an A/C compressor, 2x cam position sensors (replace in pairs), 2x throttle bodies (replace in pairs), and a water pump.The issues are not too bad, however if I was not electrically or mechanically savvy than it would be an serious issue if the dealer or a mechanic was fixing these issues out of pocket.
Electrical repair work is expensive and many shops may just try to sell the whole harness instead of chasing down broken wires.
I still like my 2015 overall. The issues are pretty easy to rectify so far; especailly with the many TSB avaible online on the Hyundai service website.
Compared to many other cars I have driven the repair cost has been low on the Genesis for me as well. However, the true test is how will the Genesis hold up after 100k miles. Most cars I have owned seem to do fine until they hit over 100 miles, and then the real problems start to happen.Compared to my old Infiniti G35, my 90K 5.0 has been like driving for free. I spent close to 5k on that one in repairs between 70 - 112k miles (when I sold it). In that time the G ate an alternator, an A/C compressor, 2x cam position sensors (replace in pairs), 2x throttle bodies (replace in pairs), and a water pump.
So far the 5.0 has only racked up about $650 - an alternator and replacement of transmission warmer O rings.
Yeah... I've noticed past 100K on cars that I've owned most things rubber, such as suspension bushings and the like start tuning turning into Wheaties.Compared to many other cars I have driven the repair cost has been low on the Genesis for me as well. However, the true test is how will the Genesis hold up after 100k miles. Most cars I have owned seem to do fine until they hit over 100 miles, and then the real problems start to happen.
True, which had me worrying about the adaptive shocks of my 2015. The control arms seem pretty affordable and are available from aftermarket companies like MOOG. However, the electronic shocks seem to be dealer only parts and very expensive at about $500 a shock, but if the OEM shocks last over 100k miles then I guess they are worth replacing with OEM again.Yeah... I've noticed past 100K on cars that I've owned most things rubber, such as suspension bushings and the like start tuning turning into Wheaties.
$500 ea. doesn't seem that bad... I thought they were more like $700.True, which had me worrying about the adaptive shocks of my 2015. The control arms seem pretty affordable and are available from aftermarket companies like MOOG. However, the electronic shocks seem to be dealer only parts and very expensive at about $500 a shock, but if the OEM shocks last over 100k miles then I guess they are worth replacing with OEM again.
Hell, I spend about $1200 on tires every 2-3 years; so $2000 for new shocks every ten years is not bad I suppose.