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Welcome to the JB4 Discussion and Support Forum

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Does the Stinger have the same differentials as the G80 or is the G80 beefier?
I think the G80 would be the ultimate sleeper car if it could shed about 500lbs.

To be honest, I have no idea, I can only assume they may have the same differential.

That would be awesome! but still, car pulls like crazy and does not spin at all!
 
To be honest, I have no idea, I can only assume they may have the same differential.

That would be awesome! but still, car pulls like crazy and does not spin at all!
Weight is the killer but weight is also what is giving you traction and not spinning out the wheels.
If you shed the weight, you'd have to have much wider rear tires!
I can't break the rear lose now on the PS4. Was so easy on the winter tires which was 3 sizes narrower!
 
Ok....since I added the fuel wires, I could also add/mix some of E85+93 octane and run some 0-60's again....as you know, so far, my best time is 4.42sec. after that, I was wondering what have I gained after mixing the fuel?

Well, I got lucky today, as they normally require an appointment a week or two in advance. But they decided to take me in, as they were interested what those cars/engine are capable of.... So here are the numbers....

1st. picture - my first session in October last year, I was running on 93 octane. ..... Map 0 then Map 1 and Map 2

2nd . picture (today) ~30% of E85+93 octane ..... Map 0 then Map 3 and Map 5

3rd. picture shows only best times of both session.

As of now, I'm pushing 414WHP and 481WTQ! with let say...15% drive-train loss, I should be at ~476HP/553TQ ??? some tuners say, the loss is even greater, more like 20-25%


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Is map 0 the same as stock? If so, a roughly 60 whp and over 120wtq gains are pretty dang solid. I bet it feels substantially stronger than before! Very very nice. Thank you for posting your results!

Most dynos I've seen show around 330whp on RWD 3.3tt engines, and AWD is showing a little above 300whp, for a stock engine. Considering this, like @NLJ said, dynos are best for measuring gains after mods for your specific car. And yours is looking strong regardless of what number it started at!

I'm still trying to decide which mods to get... I'm beginning to reconsider doing the entire exhaust, because 1) I like quieter exhausts, and 2) I worry about warranty claims and I want something easy to remove. That said, I'm contemplating putting on a CAI, intercooler, and JB4 with water injection. Hmmm.... Jeez, even the JB4 itself is so powerful (water injection would yield similar results to E85-ish mixtures).
 
I'm hoping for 290HP/305TQ at the crank from Map1 on my 2.0T since 1psi is supposedly around 10whp!
 
Yes, Map 0 means the JB4 tune is unplugged/disconnected. We used that in both sessions as a base run and I believe Map 0 numbers are HP not WHP, at least what I was told by some other people and tuners.

Yeah, JB4/fuel wires/ Map 2 will do just fine for my daily drive. I like to keep it "stock", in case I would have to go to the dealer, it would take ~5 min. to take it off.
 
Yes, Map 0 means the JB4 tune is unplugged/disconnected. We used that in both sessions as a base run and I believe Map 0 numbers are HP not WHP, at least what I was told by some other people and tuners.

Yeah, JB4/fuel wires/ Map 2 will do just fine for my daily drive. I like to keep it "stock", in case I would have to go to the dealer, it would take ~5 min. to take it off.
How did you secure the unit? Velcro or zip ties?
 
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Zip ties to keep it together with BT and it's hidden behind the fuse box, you can barely see it, lol
 

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Zip ties to keep it together with BT and it's hidden behind the fuse box, you can barely see it, lol
Nice. Are there any hardware revisions to the unit since they first built it for the Stinger? Newer processor, more sensors, etc.?
 
That you'd have to ask Terry.
 
Is map 0 the same as stock? If so, a roughly 60 whp and over 120wtq gains are pretty dang solid. I bet it feels substantially stronger than before! Very very nice. Thank you for posting your results!

Most dynos I've seen show around 330whp on RWD 3.3tt engines, and AWD is showing a little above 300whp, for a stock engine. Considering this, like @NLJ said, dynos are best for measuring gains after mods for your specific car. And yours is looking strong regardless of what number it started at!

I'm still trying to decide which mods to get... I'm beginning to reconsider doing the entire exhaust, because 1) I like quieter exhausts, and 2) I worry about warranty claims and I want something easy to remove. That said, I'm contemplating putting on a CAI, intercooler, and JB4 with water injection. Hmmm.... Jeez, even the JB4 itself is so powerful (water injection would yield similar results to E85-ish mixtures).

Cat-back will void your warranty but axle-back will not. I did the axle-back & liked the sound but wanted more so I did a resonator delete & that woke her up. It's not quiet by any means though. Still no ricer either. Going CAI is borderline pointless unless you are going to tune for the change in air-flow thus..... voiding your warranty. A piggy back won't tune your airflow for you either.

Intercoolers & CAI are one of the easiest mods to do so dealers always look for these in order to void your warranty. Unless you are doing some serious racing or ok with voiding your warranty, I see no reason for CAI or Intercoolers (note: note saying CAI will void your warranty by itself but often times it causes a good fight).

JB4 you can easily undo so for me the exhaust & JB4 was a no-brainer. I toyed with the idea of CAI but found more cons than pros so took it off the table.
 
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Ordered mine.
Hopefully will have it running by next weekend!
Def let us know when you get your numbers for 2.0t and if you can actually feel a difference.
 
Def let us know when you get your numbers for 2.0t and if you can actually feel a difference.
Lol don't expect Dyno numbers from me. Don't think there is an AWD in my city.
I'm only getting the JB4 cause:
1. My wife think the G70 doesn't lunge like my TL SH-AWD. But that's because the Acura driving profile was based on the key fob. Her Driver 2 profile was very aggressive. On the G70 since there is no driver profile, the gear shifts and general aggressiveness is lower based on my driving style.

2. Beef basically planted the seed in my head now I need to just get it and be done with it!
 
Got the JB4 tuner... but waiting for new spark plugs and the Bluetooth connector to arrive. Question: With the Bluetooth connection, does the OBD connector need to be installed?

In case my wife sees this post, I’m asking for a friend. ;)
 
Has anyone performed this tune up in Canada? Id be interested to know where you had it done. Im located in Toronto. Thanks
 
Has anyone performed this tune up in Canada? Id be interested to know where you had it done. Im located in Toronto. Thanks
It's not a tune. It's a piggyback tuner. Plug and play.
 
^ to elaborate...the JB4 does not touch your ECU.
 
Lol don't expect Dyno numbers from me. Don't think there is an AWD in my city.
I'm only getting the JB4 cause:
1. My wife think the G70 doesn't lunge like my TL SH-AWD. But that's because the Acura driving profile was based on the key fob. Her Driver 2 profile was very aggressive. On the G70 since there is no driver profile, the gear shifts and general aggressiveness is lower based on my driving style.

2. Beef basically planted the seed in my head now I need to just get it and be done with it!

Well can you at least give us your feedback? How much you notice the change in acceleration and do you feel that it is worth it?

I know that you will likely stick to 93 octane when you get the JB4, but do you currently only use 93 octane gas? I am thinking of switching to 89 or *gasp* maybe even 87 as I have hit 5K miles and don't particularly drive aggressively as much as when I just got the car.

I forget to put it into smart or eco mode way too often as well.
 
Well can you at least give us your feedback? How much you notice the change in acceleration and do you feel that it is worth it?

I know that you will likely stick to 93 octane when you get the JB4, but do you currently only use 93 octane gas? I am thinking of switching to 89 or *gasp* maybe even 87 as I have hit 5K miles and don't particularly drive aggressively as much as when I just got the car.

I forget to put it into smart or eco mode way too often as well.
On 91 Octane with Map2 it pulls hard around 3k rpm and up. Peak Boost hits 23psi which is 5psi over stock.
93/94 Octane would be better for Map2 power wise but so far no issues. I may try 94 Octane or just get some Octane Booster.
Basically you can break lose the rear wheels with the nannies off.
I only use 91 Top Tier from Costco since I had the car.
Stock plugs and gaps btw. Was going to regap but seems fine so far. I don't have a heavy foot so I'm not going to do unecessary work!
 
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