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3.3T Genesis G70 Oil and Filter change (how-to)

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On a previous car (Audi) i used an oil extractor instead of draining from the pan. Anyone aware of any issues with going the same route on the G70 (3.3)?

I understand I still need to get under the car to change the filter.

EDIT: I ended up putting the car on ramps and draining the old fashioned gravity way. Next time I know where to better position the oil collection container -- that oil comes shooting right out something fierce. Even with cleanup, oil change took about an hour. Pretty easy. Used Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W30.
I had a 2020 Stinger GT2 and used my oil extractor with AMAZING success. Check out post #188 here for why I went with it. Way less mess, and more oil extracted, nevermind not needing to remove the drain plug.


I'll also note I used Wix filters from Rock Auto and thought they were fantastic, along with Costco's 5w-30.
 
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I'll also note I used Wix filters from Rock Auto and thought they were fantastic, along with Costco's 5w-30.
Same here! Buy a few filters at one time and they are a good price. Costco oil has gone up, but bought in store, it's $15 a jug and good stuff.
 
I had a 2020 Stinger GT2 and used my oil extractor with AMAZING success. Check out post #188 here for why I went with it. Way less mess, and more oil extracted, nevermind not needing to remove the drain plug.


I'll also note I used Wix filters from Rock Auto and thought they were fantastic, along with Costco's 5w-30.

^ +1. wix filters, particularly on rockauto with their awesome prices, are hard to beat. lots of info on BITOG with very high reviews of wix filter performance and construction
 
How quickly does your new oil turns darker after change?

I ask this question because, my new used 3.3 just came back from 60000km service for oil change and rear differential service. This was the first service for me. I checked the level and the oil is significantly darker than brand new. The picture bellow is at 120km (75mi).
Is this normal? Should I be concerned?
This was not the case on my old WRX. Granted, I let WRX drain and drip from all the holes for 15 min typically.
How much of old residual oil stays in the engine and the pan when you drain it?

Additionally, this service raises questions because my car was described as G80, it was stated the tires were rotated and they weren’t, the fluids were not checked or topped up (coolant is bellow min).
 

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Maybe they didn't change the oil either.
 
Maybe they didn't change the oil either.
Well, I don’t think our oil would look that clean after 10000km. Does yours? So I am pretty sure they changed it.
Plus, I do know how it looked before. It was black black when I bought it.
Now, it would be hard to verify if they changed the oil in rear diff.
It is odd that when I was buying it, they didn’t change oil for pre purchase and refused to do it when I asked. Genesis corporate also refused to do anything until it hit proper interval at 10000km.
 
I've changed my own oil twice and noted how it looked golden like honey after starting the car and letting it run for a minute before turning it off and waiting 10 min before checking the level.

Last oil change I brought my own full synthetic oil (they use conventional oil) to the dealer. I picked up the car and drove it home, about 9 miles. When checking it, it looked about as dark as yours did.

My only guess is that they don't wait for it all to drain out. They wait for the main stream to slow and then plug it up. I wouldn't be surprised if 1/2 quart of dirty oil (that would have drained out) remained.

This is another reason why I'll continue to change my own oil.
 
I've changed my own oil twice and noted how it looked golden like honey after starting the car and letting it run for a minute before turning it off and waiting 10 min before checking the level.

Last oil change I brought my own full synthetic oil (they use conventional oil) to the dealer. I picked up the car and drove it home, about 9 miles. When checking it, it looked about as dark as yours did.

My only guess is that they don't wait for it all to drain out. They wait for the main stream to slow and then plug it up. I wouldn't be surprised if 1/2 quart of dirty oil (that would have drained out) remained.

This is another reason why I'll continue to change my own oil.
Thank you for sharing your experience that is similar to mine. What you are saying does make sense.
It is sad to realize that this was just a rush job with 0 people caring for the quality.
Couple years ago I was at quick lube type of place. Even they showed me the level of the oil after and it looked brand new.
 
Bought Rhino Ramps, 27mm socket, STP filter and some Liquimoly 5W30 (i get a Liquimoly discount). Let's see what happens next week...
 
How quickly does your new oil turns darker after change?

I ask this question because, my new used 3.3 just came back from 60000km service for oil change and rear differential service. This was the first service for me. I checked the level and the oil is significantly darker than brand new. The picture bellow is at 120km (75mi).
Is this normal? Should I be concerned?
This was not the case on my old WRX. Granted, I let WRX drain and drip from all the holes for 15 min typically.
How much of old residual oil stays in the engine and the pan when you drain it?

Additionally, this service raises questions because my car was described as G80, it was stated the tires were rotated and they weren’t, the fluids were not checked or topped up (coolant is bellow min).
I finally spoke with the service manager of the dealership in regards to these issues. He told me the oil looks clean and they are not waiting all night for it all to drain.
As to low coolant level, he said I was checking it wrong. According to him, the proper way of checking coolant is on hot engine, when coolant expands. I couldn’t verify this right away checking it in the manual, but as I expected I was lied to.
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That's interesting, I thought all my past cars were checked when the coolant was cold. But maybe I'm remembering it wrong.
 
That's interesting, I thought all my past cars were checked when the coolant was cold. But maybe I'm remembering it wrong.
Other cars I have had had a "hot full" line and a "cold full" line. I have assumed that in our case, the coolant should always be between the low and the full lines, closer to or at full when hot, and close to but above low when cold.
 
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That's interesting, I thought all my past cars were checked when the coolant was cold. But maybe I'm remembering it wrong.
Well, according to the manual, the measurements should be taken on cold engine. It says it should be between full and low on cold.
Since the measurements need to be done on cold, ideally, I would have the coolant right on full mark on cold engine.
 
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I finally spoke with the service manager of the dealership in regards to these issues. He told me the oil looks clean and they are not waiting all night for it all to drain.
As to low coolant level, he said I was checking it wrong. According to him, the proper way of checking coolant is on hot engine, when coolant expands. I couldn’t verify this right away checking it in the manual, but as I expected I was lied to.
This what I got from the service manager :

“Good afternoon. As per my Genesis technician. Your coolant is at the proper level and where it should be. If it makes you feel more comfortable please feel free to stop in and they will be more than happy to top it up to the full mark for you.”

He wrote that after looking at the picture. How is it possible?
 

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Do you notice a coolant smell outside the car after driving? A number of us G70 owners have. I've already looked, and had the dealer look, for any signs of a leak with no success. But over the course of two years the company level (cold) has dropped below the Low mark. Very strange.
 
Do you notice a coolant smell outside the car after driving? A number of us G70 owners have. I've already looked, and had the dealer look, for any signs of a leak with no success. But over the course of two years the company level (cold) has dropped below the Low mark. Very strange.
No, I don’t notice any smell. I got this used G70 2 month ago and the level has been consistently the same so far, slightly bellow min level. It is worrisome, so I am monitoring the levels.
I wonder, it may be normal for antifreeze to go down naturally like this in 2-3 years? This can’t be much 200ml?
I am trying the dealer to admit my level is low for them to check for leaks, but they don’t budge!
 
I finally spoke with the service manager of the dealership in regards to these issues. He told me the oil looks clean and they are not waiting all night for it all to drain.
As to low coolant level, he said I was checking it wrong. According to him, the proper way of checking coolant is on hot engine, when coolant expands. I couldn’t verify this right away checking it in the manual, but as I expected I was lied to.
They said the same thing to me and it turns out they're right. I checked my coolant on a running engine (not cool) and it was at the perfect level. EDIT: Wrong.

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I also just changed my oil on Rhino Ramps. Lowered on Eibach it's kind of a pain in the ass, had to get it on a cement block to lift the bumper high enough to clear the ramps. On a normal lift or normal G70 it should be easy. It was easy, just took a lot of patience to get all the way under the car, and a lot of bravery to trust plastic ramps with not breaking and killing me.

Liquimoly 5W30 runs great.
 

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They said the same thing to me and it turns out they're right. I checked my coolant on a running engine (not cool) and it was at the perfect level.
I would say that’s incorrect. It is obvious that on hot engine coolant will expand and you will have a different level from when it’s cold. Therefore, owners manual specifies during what conditions to check for proper coolant level. The owners manuals specifically states that coolant must be checked on cold engine. I’ve posted a page from the manual explaining that.
 
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View attachment 42939

I also just changed my oil on Rhino Ramps. Lowered on Eibach it's kind of a pain in the ass. On a normal lift or normal G70 it should be easy. It was easy, just took a lot of patience to get all the way under the car, and a lot of bravery to trust plastic ramps with not breaking and killing me.

Liquimoly 5W30 runs great.
Did the ramps rub on your bumper?
I had older stock WRX and metal ramps would always rub on my bumper.
WRX has higher clearance but longer bumper overhang, I think.
 
Did the ramps rub on your bumper?
I had older stock WRX and metal ramps would always rub on my bumper.
WRX has higher clearance but longer bumper overhang, I think.
Forgot to add that part - they would have rubbed if I didn't put a concrete block right before the ramps to drive up, which raised the bumper JUST enough to clear. I updated the picture.

Guess i gotta go check my coolant again too.
 
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