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AC Issues in Rain

Genesis customer service FAILED again. I had an appointment to have a field service engineer be at the dealer to check and resolve the AC problem. It had to be changed since the rep had surgery so, no problem, delay. I notified Genesis of the new date and they thanked me for letting me know.

So, I go to Gettel today and, they know nothing of it. No field service, no nothing. Customer service never notified anyone. The service manager will do nothing for me as he does not think it is the thermister. Of course, he does not know the real problem, just keeps insisting it is not the part I suggest.

Twice they spend time checking thing to no avail. In the time spent it would have been much cheaper for them to at least pull the thermister and check it with some ohm reading but no, nothing. I have the specifications but he did not even look at them. He does not think a forum knows anything in spite of the fact that many here had their problem solved.

I emailed customer service but if typical, it will be a long time to hear back. Certainly not a luxury experience with a luxury automobile brand. I have a 2500 mile trip coming up in a couple of weeks and it would be nice to have climate control.

A copy of this post will also be sent to both parties so I'm not going behind their back but everyone should know of the inability to properly fix their cars and keep a long time Hyundai/Genesis customer happy.
To Be Continued. . . .
Most service departments of any brand do not care when you mentioned information you got off a forum, my guess is it intimidate them.

Is there another dealership that you could take your car to. I have seen this problem with an evaporator coil leak which will cause the A/C compressor in the engine compartment to freeze up which will cause little to no A/C flow from air vents in the car. Once the compressor thaws A/C will resume in the car. Low refrigerant can also cause this problem. Genesis is the first I have ever heard rain being involved.

I would definitely reach out to a service manager at a different dealership. I had this issue with a New 2017 Cadillac CT6 it took a year to get it resolved. It could have been resolved a lot faster if only the service manager had paid attention to information that I provided from the Cadillac Owners Forum much earlier. The problem was the gasket in the A/C evaporator coil was not seated properly causing the refrigerant to leak which caused the compressor to freeze up. Once repaired everything was good to go. The entire dash down to the carriage had to be removed to make the repair.

Good luck
 
Most service departments of any brand do not care when you mentioned information you got off a forum, my guess is it intimidate them.

Is there another dealership that you could take your car to. I have seen this problem with an evaporator coil leak which will cause the A/C compressor in the engine compartment to freeze up which will cause little to no A/C flow from air vents in the car. Once the compressor thaws A/C will resume in the car. Low refrigerant can also cause this problem. Genesis is the first I have ever heard rain being involved.

I would definitely reach out to a service manager at a different dealership. I had this issue with a New 2017 Cadillac CT6 it took a year to get it resolved. It could have been resolved a lot faster if only the service manager had paid attention to information that I provided from the Cadillac Owners Forum much earlier. The problem was the gasket in the A/C evaporator coil was not seated properly causing the refrigerant to leak which caused the compressor to freeze up. Once repaired everything was good to go. The entire dash down to the carriage had to be removed to make the repair.

Good luck
Had thought of another dealer, even the other branch of this one if the service manager was more open minded. Now that Genesis customer service is involved i figure they should have a shot at fixing it.

Given the $30 cost of the part and quick time to replace it, you'd think they would just do it to shut me up and be done with it.
 
Has anyone been able to figure this out? My 2019 G80 that I specifically purchased for long trips loses A/C function (I can hear the blower but get nothing except some condensation blowing out of the vents). I live in the south, so driving with no A/C isn't an option. I'm on my third trip to the dealer tomorrow. Please advise! I'm about to drive the car through the dealership showroom window.
 
Has anyone been able to figure this out? My 2019 G80 that I specifically purchased for long trips loses A/C function (I can hear the blower but get nothing except some condensation blowing out of the vents). I live in the south, so driving with no A/C isn't an option. I'm on my third trip to the dealer tomorrow. Please advise! I'm about to drive the car through the dealership showroom window.
Most likely bad HVAC thermistor. Easy/cheap fix. See Post 479935 in this forum.
 
Has anyone been able to figure this out? My 2019 G80 that I specifically purchased for long trips loses A/C function (I can hear the blower but get nothing except some condensation blowing out of the vents). I live in the south, so driving with no A/C isn't an option. I'm on my third trip to the dealer tomorrow. Please advise! I'm about to drive the car through the dealership showroom window.
Who is your dealer? Mine does not believe me so not a Genesis field service rep will be looking at my car. Waiting for a date. My dealer is Genesis of Lakewood in Florida (Gettel Hyundai). Overall the service has been good except this issue.
 
This weekend I tested my thermistor. It was relatively easy to remove the thermistor. Remove the 2 round disks (counter/anti-clockwise I recall) on the interior of the glove box and disconnect the "soft opening" arm on outside right of glove box to lower/drop glovebox. This will give you access to the thermistor on the left/engine side of the glove box compartment. There is a metal bracket which makes it tough to get your hand on the thermistor. Be careful so you don't cut your self. I removed the connector and twisted the thermistor counter/anti-clockwise about 90 degrees.

I heated water to 104F and gradually added ice checking the resistance on the thermistor as water temperature decreased. It was in specifications (see post #110 above) from 104 -> 50F. Below 50F ohm-meter showed an "open" reading. This indicated to me the thermistor is faulty.

I plan to purchase a replacement part and test before replacing as there are reports in this forum on replacement/new thermistors also being bad.

HVAC Evaporator Temperature Switch - Hyundai (97614-B1000) $19.06USD plus shipping.

Many thanks to @joegr for the technical information on this issue.
Did it work???? Mine is in the shop right now and I can tell them to check it
 
See subsequent Post #118 on page 6 of this thread.
I had a new 2014 Buick LaCrosse. One day so much fog was coming from the vents I thought the car was on fire. The fog filled up the cabin of the car so bad I had to pull off the road and open the windows for it to clear.

It took several visits to the dealership and nothing got done until I refused to take the car home until they got the matter resolved.
They found a kink in the AC hose to be the problem but unfortunately by the time they found the problem so much water had drained in the car unto the dash pad , carpet both front and rear I made them replace the car.

I had a new 2017 Cadillac CT6 that on hot days after the car had been driven for an hour the vents would blow out cool air, Here again a lot of visits with no answer until Cadillac admitted there was a problem that they had no immediate fix for.
After a year Cadillac issued a TSB, but service kept telling me it did not apply to my car. Once again I handed the keys to the service manager and said you call me when you fix the car.
The service manger reported back that there was an issue with the evaporator core seal that caused a refrigerant leak that caused the compressor to freeze. When the compressor thawed then the AC would work.
Service removed the dash down to bare metal to get to the evaporator, they found the seal was improperly seated. After the repair AC worked fine. Unfortunately I traded out of the car a few months after the repair.

My point is whatever the issue with the AC problem being reported on this forum Genesis can resolve it, but you are going to have to stay on them and press the issue. This is totally unacceptable and should not be treated lightly.

I have owned the 2021 G80 and now a 2022. I was fortunate not to have a problem with either, I have not yet seen the AC issue mentioned and hope that I don’t see it.

Good luck to all of you and I hope this issue gets resolved for all of you soon.
 
It must be a build / assy issue, as my 2019 G80 has not had this issue - not a lot of miles (14K) but it's driven in Dallas where we have a lot of hot, muggy days. Thankfully, as it would drive me crazy. I hate being hot.
 
It must be a build / assy issue, as my 2019 G80 has not had this issue - not a lot of miles (14K) but it's driven in Dallas where we have a lot of hot, muggy days. Thankfully, as it would drive me crazy. I hate being hot.
On mine, it is great climate control most of the time. Only acts up on long trips, cruising at highway speeds. If I never took a trip over 100 miles in summer I'd never know there was an issue.
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They are now claiming it's a feature that no one, in 3 trips to two dealers and themhaving my car for over a month, has ever mentioned. Apparently, in all of the wonderful tech in this car, is a feature that when humidity is detected in the car or window is about to fog up, will re-direct air from cabin to the window area. So while I feel we are closer to getting to the bottom of this, (the good news that they at least identified a potential issue and the conditions under which it would occur (high humidity/rain and air not flowing to cabin) were present each of the 3 times this has happened) I'm again not convinced this is the actual issue. First, if that was correct, I would think I would have felt some air coming from the window area. I did not. Second, one would think that after 7 hours (first incident), that humidity/foggy condition would be eliminated and normal operation would resume at some point! Third, it does not explain the larger than normal river of water under my car the next morning.
So basically we decided I would turn off this "feature" (I'm perfectly capable of turning on a defrost switch manually which I've done all of my life!) I'm going to give it one more shot to see if this is really the issue. If not, we'll be speaking to them again.
I will say that Genesis national has been extremely helpful in helping resolve this issue. The issue lies at the local dealership and I won't go into separate issues there. Suffice it say, it is certainly not up to Genesis or luxury brand standards. This needs to be addressed (yes, I know there will eventually be a split with Hyundai) or they will lose customers.
Genesis dealer gives me the same story, "Duhhh no one has reported that issue before, Duhhh you are the first" I am sure Hyundai knows exactly how to fix this problem but it is just too many pennies for them. They also know that the tech driving the car to create the same problem probably will not drive it for more than one hour straight so they will never be able to recreate the issue which is a prerequisite to fixing it. Sure they give you a 5 year warranty but they won't try very hard to honor it. Oh also they only have one loaner at my dealer "Genesis of Homestead" So forget about dropping it off. In conclusion my 2018 G80 with only 26,450 miles will probably never get the AC issue fixed which puts a sour taste in my mouth about the "Luxury" brand. I will trade the car in when the 5 year warranty is up next year and probably get an off lease Porsche Panamera.
 
The thermistor replacement I did a few months/miles ago did not fix my A/C issue. :(

This weekend I took a longer than usual 1 hour drive since thermistor replacement, running the A/C non-stop. Ambient air temperature was ~90F/70% humidity. 45 minutes into the drive the vent air flow decreased and I heard mild growling noise from duct work. The air coming out of the vent was cool. I switched off the A/C and let air continue to flow. The air flow increased slowly and after ~ 2 minutes resumed to normal/expected level. The vent output air temperature increased during this time. I hypothesize this was because evaporator was exchanging residual cooling and/or thawing out frost in evaporator/airbox. I then switched A/C back on. A/C’ed airflow worked for about 5 minutes and then issue re-occurred.

When I arrived at my destination I checked the evaporator drain (underside of car below ~glovebox) and there was NO water dripping. I ran my errand and came back to car about 1 hour later. There was noticeable water on the pavement under the drain hose.

The same issue occurred 45 minutes into my 1 hour drive home. When I arrived home I checked the drain hose, by reaching under car (did not jack up). The rubber hose extension on the drain was collapsed/pinched. I consider just yanking the hose off, but ...
1) I was working by feel only and the rubber hose did not want to come off. I did not want to break the plastic fitting hose was connected to, causing a bigger problem.
2) I assume the car designer put the rubber hose on for a reason (i.e. keep water from going where it shouldn't).
A picture of the assembly can be found here.

I hypothesize water is backing up, filling/freezing in the air box causing the issue. I don't have any "moldy" smell from the vent/in the car so I think it's more of a freezing versus water collecting problem. Car cools extremely well when the A/C is working. The issue occurs when the HVAC air flow is set to recirculating or fresh air setting. I don't cool the interior excessively. Typically full blast for a few minutes initially to cool car interior then change to 70F and low air flow (1 or 2 bars on screen) to dash and floor. Issue occurs regardless of where air flow is directed (dash vents, floor, defrost vents).

Next step is to jack up the car and take a closer look at the A/C-evaporator drain hose.
 
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The thermistor replacement I did a few months/miles ago did not fix my A/C issue. :(

This weekend I took a longer than usual 1 hour drive since thermistor replacement, running the A/C non-stop. Ambient air temperature was ~90F/70% humidity. 45 minutes into the drive the vent air flow decreased and I heard mild growling noise from duct work. The air coming out of the vent was cool. I switched off the A/C and let air continue to flow. The air flow increased slowly and after ~ 2 minutes resumed to normal/expected level. The vent output air temperature increased during this time. I hypothesize this was because evaporator was exchanging residual cooling and/or thawing out frost in evaporator/airbox. I then switched A/C back on. A/C’ed airflow worked for about 5 minutes and then issue re-occurred.
I don't know about water backing up. Coil is definitely freezing. Dealer did and evacuation and re-charge and problem went away. Thought for sure it would not fix it but I took a 2200 mile trip after and it was perfect. That was done at the direction of the field service engineer.
 
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Most cars have the drain hose pinched at the end to keep unwanted items out of the A/C system. I would be more inclined to think that your system needs to be serviced. Are the lines in the engine compartment freezing up?
 
It's not backing up and freezing. If there were a clog, the water would just spill out on the passengers feet eventually. It is freezing on the evaporator itself, before it can ever drip into the drip pan. This is because your new thermistor has failed, or was bad before they ever installed it. When the thermistor is working correctly, it is impossible for anything to freeze up, because it causes the compressor to stop pumping if the temperature at the evaporator gets to 35 degrees. You have to get down to 32 for it to freeze.
You are chasing the wrong problem.
 
We have the same issues with 2018 G80. Dealership has no clue.
Dealers have no clue. Mine said “it was normal”
Genesis stood up and replaced the compressor and the thermal sensor (see below copy/ pasted from another post. No more issues. Never happened on local driving just highway trips >3h
 

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In my area of Florida, I have a/c techs that know what they are doing. (Both car and home air).

One of the things I learned is that “if refrigerant is LOW, the evaporator can or will freeze up.
I’ve had more than one tech tell me this. I first saw the problem with a neighbors home air evaporator (air handler) froze up. Loaded with ice. (Also lines to outside compressor also had lots of ice formed on lines). Once ice melted tech added correct amount of refrigerant. That fixed problem. Car air does the same thing. If refrigerant is low, unit will freeze up. Also lines under hood can or will show frost. Back in the old dsys, when you could buy an Under Dash Add On unit, you could actually look at the evaporator coils and see them freeze over.
My Sears unit in my 68 Plymouth would do that.

If it freezes up, refrigerant most likely low.
 
Does anybody have the specifications for the refrigerant low and high side pressures?
I have the gauges and may check myself.

I spoke with my local repair shop last night. They also indicated my symptoms are indicative of low refrigerant level.
Going to cost about $550 USD (diagnostics, labor and R-1234YF refrigerant evacuation/replacement). The required R-1234YF refrigerant is considerably more expensive (~4x) than the R134a refrigerant.

I have noticed the under hood A/C line (dryer/desiccant cannister???) freeze/frost up on occasion.
2018-G80Sport-220802-ACLineFreeze.jpg

I'm not going to dealer for this work. My 2 local stealership repair shops are incompetent crooks and this repair is not covered by warranty (1 year 12,000 miles).
 
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Does anybody have the specifications for the refrigerant low and high side pressures?
I have the gauges and may check myself.
...
You can't really verify correct charge level using just the low and high side pressures. At best it is a guess. The reliable way to verify correct refrigerant level is to extract it, and then weight the correct amount back in.
(I have used pressure measurements (need both the high and low side) to recharge older cars without problems. However, I quickly found that this doesn't really work for newer cars with variable compressors. The pressures stay pretty steady with different charge amounts.)
 
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Does anybody have the specifications for the refrigerant low and high side pressures?
I have the gauges and may check myself.

I spoke with my local repair shop last night. They also indicated my symptoms are indicative of low refrigerant level.
Going to cost about $550 USD (diagnostics, labor and R-1234YF refrigerant evacuation/replacement). The required R-1234YF refrigerant is considerably more expensive (~4x) than the R134a refrigerant.

I have noticed the under hood A/C line (dryer/desiccant cannister???) freeze/frost up on occasion.
View attachment 47181

I'm not going to dealer for this work. My 2 local stealership repair shops are incompetent crooks and this repair is not covered by warranty (1 year 12,000 miles).
On my 2019 G80 Sport I had the same symptom (see Post #47, this thread). What fixed it for me was the repair shown in Post #61.

Good luck,
Don P
 
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