Coupe Brembo Retrofit

[84FordMan]

Got my windows tinted today in Raleigh and the installer knew if a guy also in Raleigh who has installed the coupe Brembos on his R-Spec sedan. I have no picture proof but he assured me it was possible. They are both members of GenSport Carolinas on Facebook.

I'm on there too, didn't know of any other Sedan owners other than Jon Penninger out of Charlotte.

Working this weekend, but if the weather holds out for next weekend, I'll have the rears done.

 

[amartz]

I'm on there too, didn't know of any other Sedan owners other than Jon Penninger out of Charlotte.

I was not aware of this group, and did a join request, as it is a closed group. How long does it typically take to get a response?

 

[84FordMan]

I was not aware of this group, and did a join request, as it is a closed group. How long does it typically take to get a response?

What's your name? I can get a hold of the Jasons to get you approved right away.

 

[66nexus]

Alright the Sedan lines and Coupe lines have the same fittings and turns, but the Sedan lines are on average 1" linger than the Coupe on all four corners.

Excellent! I'll probably go with the sedan lines since I don't know if I'll ever drop this car (the price of those Centric lines for the coupe is tempting though). Again, thank you for your research I def appreciate it.

 

[84FordMan]

Excellent! I'll probably go with the sedan lines since I don't know if I'll ever drop this car (the price of those Centric lines for the coupe is tempting though). Again, thank you for your research I def appreciate it.

I went ahead and ordered the rear Centric/Stoptech lines from RockAuto, if it doesn't work, well, I've blown $40 on things far worse than this lol.

 

[66nexus]

I went ahead and ordered the rear Centric/Stoptech lines from RockAuto, if it doesn't work, well, I've blown $40 on things far worse than this lol.

You and me both lmao

 

[84FordMan]

Alright, rears on and good to go.

Here is all I needed:
- Performance Friction 1053.10 carbon-metallic pads
- Genesis Coupe (10-15) rear Brembo calipers
- Brake hardware kit for GC rear Brembos
- Motormite/Help SpeedBleeder screws for the calipers, two packages
- Disc brake caliper lube
- 21mm socket (For OEM lugnuts)
- 14mm socket (If you want to separate the caliper from the mounting bracket)
- 12mm socket (For brake hose bolt)
- 11mm wrench (If you are going to replace the brake hose)
- 17mm wrench (For bracket mounting bolts)
- Channel-lock pliers and/or pair of tin snips (For heat shield modification)
- Brake fluid (I used Pentosin Super DOT4)
- Small bucket
- Clear hose to slip over brake bleeders
- Impact screwdriver
- Stoptech SS brake lines for Genesis Coupe Brembo
- Genesis Coupe (10-15) Brembo rear rotors

Steps:
- Jack up car, put on stands, remove wheels

- Use impact screwdriver and loosen, but do not yet remove the rotor screws. Higher mileage Sedans or Sedans in the rust belt, these screws may seize into the rotor/hub. At this point, they will have to be drilled out.

- On one side I removed the 14mm caliper bolts from the mounting bracket, but found by the time I did the other side, I had just enough room to break loose the 17mm mounting bracket bolts without removing the caliper first.

- Use the 17mm wrench and a hammer (Or in my case, the ratchet handle) to hit the wrench with until the bolts break loose. Before removing the 17mm mounting bracket bolts, remove the 12mm brake hose bolt and leave brake hose to drip into bucket.

- Finish removing the 17mm mounting bracket bolts and remove caliper assembly.

- Finish removing the rotor screws, set them aside, remove rotor and pop out rubber stopper for the parking brake adjuster hole on the rotor.

- Now you should be looking at this:

- The rotor backing plate needs to be modified to fit the larger/thicker/VENTED rotor. You can either take your tin snips and cut off the bent section or you can take the channel lock pliers and bend back the bent section until it's flat. Either way, once done, you will need to push/bend the backing plate back, just check and make sure you are not hitting any of the suspension arms.

- Check fitment/clearance of backing plate by mocking up the new rotor, turn it by hand and listen for any metal scraping. Some dragging/noise is to be expected as your parking brake shoes will now make contact with the brand new drum inside the rotor.

- Once fitment is done, put rotor screws back in and put in the rubber stopper into the parking brake adjuster hole and it should now look like this:

- The metal is pretty thin on the backing plate, if you went the bending route like me, then some splitting is normal.

- Grab your Brembo caliper, make sure bleeder screws are pointed skyward, secure caliper to vehicle with the 17mm mounting bracket bolts. Torque them down.

- Use 11mm wrench to remove OEM bleeder screws and replace with Speedbleeder screws, tighten them snug for now.

- Slide your brake pads in and grab a pair of pins and a pad spreader bracket from the brake hardware kit. Apply caliper lube to pins and slide the first pin in through the back of the caliper, fit the pad spreader bracket to caliper and slide second pin in through the back of the caliper, aligning/loading the pad spreader bracket.

- Make sure the pins fully seats flush, will need a hammer.

- If you want to replace the brake hose, remove some of the fasteners that hold the wheel liner in place and pull back enough of the liner to expose where the brake hose meets the brake line.

- Use your 11mm wrench to break loose the brake line nut, then use the pliers to pull the horseshoe clip holding the hose in the bracket. Finish unthreading the brake line nut and remove the brake hose completely.

- Install SS brake hose in reverse order, as for the horseshoe clip, I couldn't get either of mine to fit, but it seemed secure enough without it.

- Re-install 12mm brake hose bolt with new copper crush washers.

- It should now look like this:

- Repeat for other side.

- Once all done installing, time to bleed the brakes.

- Open the master cylinder cap and fill to FULL line.

- Go to passenger rear caliper, fit clear hose over the inner SpeedBleeder screw, drop hose in bucket and crack open SpeedBleeder screw 1/4 turn.

- Start car, depress brake and hold 1 to 2 seconds, release and repeat about six times. You should feel the pedal get a little firmer.

- Check level in master cylinder, top off as needed.

- Return to caliper, close the inner SpeedBleeder screw, transfer hose to outer SpeedBleeder screw and crack it open 1/4 turn.

- Again, deprees brake and hold 1 to 2 seconds, release and repeat about six times. Pedal should start to get firmer.

- Check level in master cylinder, top off as needed.

- Return to caliper, close the outer SpeedBleeder screw and repeat the process on the driver rear caliper.

- Repeat inner to outer bleeding process.

- Pedal should now be back to it's regular firmness. Make sure bleeding screw is closed, top off master cylinder and put cap back on it.

- Put wheels back on and put it back on the ground.

- Make sure to bed your new pads in, several runs up to 35 MPH, hard on brakes, but do not let vehicle come to a complete stop, allow 30 seconds cool down while driving and then hard on the brakes from 35 MPH, repeat above process several times (At least 5 times).

Now stand back and enjoy the beautiful calipers from behind your wheels

 

[2011 Genesis 4.6]

That is awesome so the coupe brembo's bolt right on with no modification other then moving the dust shield back away from the new larger thicker rotors?

 

[84FordMan]

That is awesome so the coupe brembo's bolt right on with no modification other then moving the dust shield back away from the new larger thicker rotors?

That is correct.

 

[chewbakarox]

Thanks for the detailed write up and for confirming these are a straight forward bolt-on. Can't wait to see the fronts on too!

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[Tailwalker]

Likewise - great write-up, and can't wait for stage two....and I get to see in person at the Dragon.

 

[66nexus]

Wow, very good 84FordMan! Excellent write-up. I'm probably not going to be able to do the rears anytime soon (only have enough for the fronts for now). But damn good job on proving this possible (again in your case lol).

 

[AVMIII]

Hey just a little reality check here, at least it was for me. I searched briefly on ebay, and USED front Brembo caliper sets are running $450 and a 4 wheel set from $750 to $1000. This would be 340mm rotors in front and 330mm rotors in the rear. Of course this is used, and who knows what shape they are in. I've not looked for rebuild kits, which might be desirable in many cases.

Just as a point of comparison, Tire Rack lists only front Brembo packages (calipers, rotors and pads) for about $4k! Rotor size is 380mm, seemingly a lot bigger than the coupe. --and these are 6 piston calipers!

I guess I'm starting to wonder if the coupe Brembos are big enough to offer any significant braking power over the stock calipers. I'm also hesitant to put used calipers of any brand on my car without rebuilding them.

Will be interesting to get an account of how well a 4 wheel Brembo system works. I would have liked to get some feedback on just a front conversion though, as this might be more manageable dollar-wise.

 

[84FordMan]

Hey just a little reality check here, at least it was for me. I searched briefly on ebay, and USED front Brembo caliper sets are running $450 and a 4 wheel set from $750 to $1000. This would be 340mm rotors in front and 330mm rotors in the rear. Of course this is used, and who knows what shape they are in. I've not looked for rebuild kits, which might be desirable in many cases.

Just as a point of comparison, Tire Rack lists only front Brembo packages (calipers, rotors and pads) for about $4k! Rotor size is 380mm, seemingly a lot bigger than the coupe. --and these are 6 piston calipers!

I guess I'm starting to wonder if the coupe Brembos are big enough to offer any significant braking power over the stock calipers. I'm also hesitant to put used calipers of any brand on my car without rebuilding them.

Will be interesting to get an account of how well a 4 wheel Brembo system works. I would have liked to get some feedback on just a front conversion though, as this might be more manageable dollar-wise.

Rebuild kits for Brembo are hard to come by, Brembo itself states it's calipers (OEM and aftermarket) should never be rebuilt and if you insist it be done, they say it should be returned to them. Cardone offers rebuilding services here in the US. Then you have people like Detective Coating, a powdercoating company that will disassemble your calipers, powdercoat them whatever you want and rebuild/re-seal them.

As far as bolting on used parts "right out of the box", in the Coupe community, Brembos get sold a lot with varying miles and seemingly no issues ever reported.

If you want monoblock four-piston front calipers, larger rotors than even OEM Brembo, and without the cost of Brembo and without the red powdercoat, then....

These are 2013+ Equus front calipers, made by Mando (Same company that makes the Sedan 4.6 4-piston calipers). The matching rotors are 360mm.

I have a set of these in my garage, they require at least 19" wheels to clear, so why did I still buy Brembos? At last check, there were no performance brake pad options for the Equus monoblock calipers.

 

[84FordMan]

Front Coupe Brembo swap

Tools/Items needed:
- Front 2010-15 Coupe Brembo brake pads
- Front 2010-15 Coupe Brembo calipers
- Front 2010-15 Coupe Brembo rotors
- Aviation tin snips
- Hammer
- 17mm short well socket
- 17mm deep well socket
- 17mm wrench
- 12mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Impact screwdriver
- 11mm wrench
- Brake fluid
- Clear hose to slip over bleeders
- Jug/bucket to catch fluid
- 22mm socket for OEM lugnuts

Steps:
- Jack up car, place on stands, remove wheels

- Use impact driver to loosen rotor screws but do not remove yet (There are three per side on the front, Hyundai REALLY did not want them falling off during assembly)

- Use 17mm socket and ratchet and break loose the caliper mounting bolts. I recommend starting on the passenger side, as this is the hardest side. I found that with the right socket and ratchet length, on the top bolt you can rotate the ratchet to where the handle is point to the front and you can use a downward strike of the hammer. With the lower bolt, again the right combo can get it where the handle is pointed to the ground and you can get a good swing of the hammer or kick it to break it loose.

- Use 10mm socket and remove the small bolt in the brake hose bracket.

- If replacing the brake hose, use the 11mm wrench and break loose the brake line nut.

- Use 12mm socket and remove caliper hose bolt, place hose into bucket/jug for fluid to drain.

- If replacing the brake hose, use the 11mm wrench and finish removing the brake line nut. Pull the horseshoe clip holding the brake hose in it's bracket and replace brake hose.

- Finish removing the 17mm caliper mounting bolts, set caliper assembly to the side.

- Finish removing the (3) rotor screws, remove rotor and set to the side.

- Now take a look at this:

- There were (3) rotor screws, but there are (5) holes, found this interesting.

- Grab the Brembo rotor and place on hub, despite their being (5) holes in the hub assembly, and (2) in the Brembo rotor, only (1) will actually line up. Use one of the rotor screws and place a lug nut opposite of it to hold the rotor true for now:

- Grab Brembo caliper, mount it with the 17mm mounting bolts.

- Use 12mm socket and secure the brake hose to the caliper with new copper washers.

- Use 10mm socket to secure the hose bracket to the spindle

- Check your brake pads, if yours came with wear indicator tabs on both the inboard and outboard pad, then you will need to clip it off on the inboard pad and hammer down the remaining tab:

- Install pads into caliper and install new brake hardware. Hammer the pins in until the tips poke out the front holes.

- Repeat for other side

- Bleed the brakes, start on the inner bleeder on the passenger side, then close it and move to the outer bleeder on the same side. Repeat for driver side.

- Remove holder lugnuts and reinstall wheels, lower vehicle back to the ground.

Again, it clears OEM 18s with no spacers:

 

[Tailwalker]

Fantastic write up; just in time! Can't wait to see this weekend.

 

[T_D_Diggs]

Fordman. Your name is Ed? Or Trailblazer did you mean fantastic editorial? Or is my brain just putty today?

 

[84FordMan]

My name is Ed.

And in case I ever forget...

 

[chewbakarox]

Thanks so much for the detailed step-by-step write up - looks amazing. Looks awesome. When you have a chance, would you mind posting some pics of the full car with both the fronts and the backs installed? I'd love to see the "full package"!!

Also - any initial impressions regarding performance?

 

[2011 Genesis 4.6]

Thanks so much for the detailed step-by-step write up - looks amazing. Looks awesome. When you have a chance, would you mind posting some pics of the full car with both the fronts and the backs installed? I'd love to see the "full package"!!

Also - any initial impressions regarding performance?

This ^.

And just so you know even with stock wheels I think it looks great, would love to see what it looks like with nice aftermarket wheels, either larger or not.