2015 Genesis Tech Package - Front turn signal bulb blown - LED Replacement?

[dbbalch]

Please keep us updated on how well this strategy works.

Before going through the trouble of changing these sockets, I followed surprisinguy's advice to check the polarity to the sockets first. Mine were fine, so I decided to scrape the connection points inside the sockets and pry them out a bit to ensure solid connections to the new bulbs.

That worked. My new 2357 Zevo LEDs now light up fine, although they do hyper-blink when I use the turn signals. I'm installing a load equalizer on each socket tonight to deal with that and everything should be good to go.

 

[surprisinguy]

I didnt have any trouble with continued hyper flashing with the pilot bulbs I used. They did right after I installed them but I think the system "learned" them and they worked fine after that. Every so often the left one will hyper flash if its been blinking for an extended period, like at a long light.

 

[jimmy buoy]

This might sound weird, but my LED turn signal bulbs did the hyper flash thing, but as soon as I put the wipers on "auto" setting the signal flashing went normal. If I turn the wipers off it's back to hyper turn signals again. All I can figure is that "auto" puts a draw on the systems current - just enough load to cure the flash.

 

[ruikenshin]

Before going through the trouble of changing these sockets, I followed surprisinguy's advice to check the polarity to the sockets first. Mine were fine, so I decided to scrape the connection points inside the sockets and pry them out a bit to ensure solid connections to the new bulbs.

That worked. My new 2357 Zevo LEDs now light up fine, although they do hyper-blink when I use the turn signals. I'm installing a load equalizer on each socket tonight to deal with that and everything should be good to go.

so you just added solider to the leads? How the load resistors install go? I'm looking to do the same to mine

 

[G-282200]

Great Idea bridging the contacts, I think I will try that!

I bridged contacts. Still hyperflashing. Adding a resistor just seems like trouble with no metal nearby for heat dissipation. What a FUBAR situation.

 

[dbbalch]

so you just added solider to the leads? How the load resistors install go? I'm looking to do the same to mine

There have been numerous updates to this project listed in other threads. Do NOT install load resistors as they are not intended for always-on daytime running lights. they will get dangerously hot.

the solution is to find LED bulbs that draw enough wattage to be sensed by the car's blinker relay, yet are durable enough to be used as running lights. These have worked for me so far:

CK Series LED Exterior Light-1157 Amber

 

[ruikenshin]

There have been numerous updates to this project listed in other threads. Do NOT install load resistors as they are not intended for always-on daytime running lights. they will get dangerously hot.

the solution is to find LED bulbs that draw enough wattage to be sensed by the car's blinker relay, yet are durable enough to be used as running lights. These have worked for me so far:

CK Series LED Exterior Light-1157 Amber

As long as the resistor itself is on metal it should fine, as long is away from something that can catch fire. You can also used them to resolve hyperflashing. So if you know the pinouts for both headlights, I'll do the testing myself

 

[Suburbazine]

As long as the resistor itself is on metal it should fine, as long is away from something that can catch fire. You can also used them to resolve hyperflashing. So if you know the pinouts for both headlights, I'll do the testing myself

NO.

There is not a single resistor on the market designed to be run as a DRL. They ALL will pose a serious fire hazard no matter how much metal you mount them on.

 

[carguy75]

NO.

There is not a single resistor on the market designed to be run as a DRL. They ALL will pose a serious fire hazard no matter how much metal you mount them on.

Agreed.

The only way for these resistors to last being used with constantly running DRL bulbs is that the resistors need to be mount to a metal surface to help dissipate the heat energy. So, yes they can be used, but must be properly mounted on the metal chassis. Even then ,depending on the quality of the resistor, it still may fail before the bulb fails due to excessive heat. Too much trouble just to add an LED bulb in my opinion. Adding resistors is a good method for lightly used bulbs such as the ones used as blinkers and reverse lights, but not constantly used bulbs such as DRL lights that runs for hours at a time.

Most resistors mounted to metal will just become an open circuit when they fail and just stop working. The fire hazzard is mainly from when they are mounted to plastics or other flammable surfaces.

Just my opinion.

 

[Suburbazine]

It's not the surface or the resistor itself that's flammable, it's the wiring and insulation. You run a very big risk of dripping flaming insulation when running these gold 52 watt resistors or even the much higher end 40 watt Morimoto HD resistors (which according to Morimoto absolutely pose a fire risk in a continuous use scenario).

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[carguy75]

It's not the surface or the resistor itself that's flammable, it's the wiring and insulation. You run a very big risk of dripping flaming insulation when running these gold 52 watt resistors or even the much higher end 40 watt Morimoto HD resistors (which according to Morimoto absolutely pose a fire risk in a continuous use scenario).

It's not the surface or the resistor itself that's flammable, it's the wiring and insulation. You run a very big risk of dripping flaming insulation when running these gold 52 watt resistors or even the much higher end 40 watt Morimoto HD resistors (which according to Morimoto absolutely pose a fire risk in a continuous use scenario).

Oh my. Well those common gold resistors are pretty cheap and the build quality is questionable. Therefore, another reason not to use them for DRL use. Possible engine fire or expensive electrical damage.

I will just stick with amber 2537 bulbs.

 

[Suburbazine]

I just installed VLEDS Triton V6 Ambers (No Canbus or resistor harnesses). They are extremely bright, fit perfectly and have no hyper flash. They are polarity sensitive though and I had to rewire the left headlight. Then I had to etch the socket contacts because they were burnt crispy on both sides. I'll get some video when I get the car back from the shop tomorrow.


V6 TRITON AMBER

 

[1FstYota]

I just installed VLEDS Triton V6 Ambers (No Canbus or resistor harnesses). They are extremely bright, fit perfectly and have no hyper flash. They are polarity sensitive though and I had to rewire the left headlight. Then I had to etch the socket contacts because they were burnt crispy on both sides. I'll get some video when I get the car back from the shop tomorrow.


V6 TRITON AMBER

130 bucks, jesus.

 

[Suburbazine]

130 bucks, jesus.

For something that won't fail any time (re: desolder in situ) soon it's not a bad deal. Plus there's the stupid bright aspect compared to other lights. I mean, a set of replacement D1S lamps cost as much and will probably not live as long.

Oh, I swapped the HIDs too. The old original 66140's got swapped to 66140XNL's. Only immediate difference of note is the cutoff got a lot cleaner. I think the old lamps weren't aligned quite right, probably because of the alignment confetti.

 

[carguy75]

I just installed VLEDS Triton V6 Ambers (No Canbus or resistor harnesses). They are extremely bright, fit perfectly and have no hyper flash. They are polarity sensitive though and I had to rewire the left headlight. Then I had to etch the socket contacts because they were burnt crispy on both sides. I'll get some video when I get the car back from the shop tomorrow.


V6 TRITON AMBER

WOW. You really go all out for DRL.

 

[carguy75]

For something that won't fail any time (re: desolder in situ) soon it's not a bad deal. Plus there's the stupid bright aspect compared to other lights. I mean, a set of replacement D1S lamps cost as much and will probably not live as long.

Oh, I swapped the HIDs too. The old original 66140's got swapped to 66140XNL's. Only immediate difference of note is the cutoff got a lot cleaner. I think the old lamps weren't aligned quite right, probably because of the alignment confetti.

Pics please!!!! Do you have any pics on the installation?

 

[Suburbazine]

WOW. You really go all out for DRL.

They're also my turn signals, so having them work is kinda important to me. Not to mention changing them again would be a pain.

Pics please!!!! Do you have any pics on the installation?

Installation doesn't have any pics, although the bumper was removed and I took the housings full off the car. As for the Tritons, they're mounted with the bigger seals and a dual stud configuration (can't use all 4 screws for twistlock). Since the headlamp is independently sealed against the elements I didn't heatshrink the adapters to the sockets. On the one that required rewiring, I gave up on moving the pins since I didn't have a jewelers screwdriver small enough to pick the latches. I wound up butt splicing the wires on the socket harness (replaceable section) instead. The "red" wire in the housing is positive, the "white" is negative, but on the socket harness both wires are red. Just make sure the positive wire is connected to the bottom terminal on the socket and not the side terminal.

I'll have pics/video of the lights tomorrow sometime.

 

[carguy75]

They're also my turn signals, so having them work is kinda important to me. Not to mention changing them again would be a pain.



Installation doesn't have any pics, although the bumper was removed and I took the housings full off the car. As for the Tritons, they're mounted with the bigger seals and a dual stud configuration (can't use all 4 screws for twistlock). Since the headlamp is independently sealed against the elements I didn't heatshrink the adapters to the sockets. On the one that required rewiring, I gave up on moving the pins since I didn't have a jewelers screwdriver small enough to pick the latches. I wound up butt splicing the wires on the socket harness (replaceable section) instead. The "red" wire in the housing is positive, the "white" is negative, but on the socket harness both wires are red. Just make sure the positive wire is connected to the bottom terminal on the socket and not the side terminal.

I'll have pics/video of the lights tomorrow sometime.

I can respect that. The LED system seems like it is well built so hopefully the electronics hold up over time. I can not wait to see the bulbs in action.

 

[1FstYota]

For something that won't fail any time (re: desolder in situ) soon it's not a bad deal. Plus there's the stupid bright aspect compared to other lights. I mean, a set of replacement D1S lamps cost as much and will probably not live as long.

Oh, I swapped the HIDs too. The old original 66140's got swapped to 66140XNL's. Only immediate difference of note is the cutoff got a lot cleaner. I think the old lamps weren't aligned quite right, probably because of the alignment confetti.

Yea, post some pics or video of the led signals and the new HID bulbs. I'm intrigued. I don't plan on keeping this car much longer other wise I would experiment with the leds.

 

[Suburbazine]

Yea, post some pics or video of the led signals and the new HID bulbs. I'm intrigued. I don't plan on keeping this car much longer other wise I would experiment with the leds.

Teaser till I get good video