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2015 Genesis Tech Package - Front turn signal bulb blown - LED Replacement?

here are the pilot leds that lost the chip on each one. one of them couldn't even find it and prob went into the crevice somewhere in the housing. they both lit up but hyperflashed and one of them i could actually hear rattling inside. one more thing to note is that on the driver side the led that had a rattle was faintly on even with car shut off. prob good way to drain the battery. the build quality on these compared to ek/ck series is night and day.

20190323_153125%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg
 
I am hoping for no hyperflashing;

my ek does not hyperflash at all so far...i have the ck coming so will do a comparison when i get them. even the pilot ones when they were new hyperflashed randomly once in a while.
 
I take it the model linked below won’t work as a plug and play direct fit without mods? Looking for a switchback option without modifications

 
I take it the model linked below won’t work as a plug and play direct fit without mods? Looking for a switchback option without modifications
Won't know for sure until you try it, but it does say "5w" and "Requires hyperblink fix (resistors or flasher)" right there in the description, so yes, it will likely hyperblink.
I'd suggest getting the Sirius CK series (since the CANBus-enabled Huizen that I use is unavailable on Amazon again). And forget about the switchbacks - our cars don't use the second contact in the 1157 socket so the white LEDs in the switchback bulbs would never work - unless you change the socket and add relays.
 
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Won't know for sure until you try it, but it does say "5w" and "Requires hyperblink fix (resistors or flasher)" right there in the description, so yes, it will likely hyperblink.
I'd suggest getting the Sirius CK series (since the CANBus-enabled Huizen that I use is unavailable on Amazon again). And forget about the switchbacks - our cars don't use the second contact in the 1157 socket so the white LEDs in the switchback bulbs would never work - unless you change the socket and add relays.

Thanks
 
Won't know for sure until you try it, but it does say "5w" and "Requires hyperblink fix (resistors or flasher)" right there in the description, so yes, it will likely hyperblink.
I'd suggest getting the Sirius CK series (since the CANBus-enabled Huizen that I use is unavailable on Amazon again). And forget about the switchbacks - our cars don't use the second contact in the 1157 socket so the white LEDs in the switchback bulbs would never work - unless you change the socket and add relays.

Does the Sirius CK have a canbus?
 
got the ck today and didn't see any difference in brightness vs ek. did weigh them out of curiosity and they're pretty much same but more than twice the weight of cheap pilot. all in all its a toss up between ck and ek as far as brightness. seems like ek has more heat sink area but leds may run hotter given they are pulling more watts per led (13 on ek vs 21 on ck). ek does blend in better in the housing imo.

ck, ek, pilot / 16g, 17g, 7g

20190327_174306%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg




ek left, ck right

20190327_173139%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg




ek does blend in better with the background

20190327_175306%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg



ck

20190327_175439%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg
 
Just to confirm - no hyperblinking for the CK then? Not that I doubted it (much) ;)

no hf on ck ;)

really impressed with the brightness of the ek (ck same) ... signs get brightly lit up even from a distance when flashing compared to pilot which would barely light up signs even close. only question is the longevity of these ...i read the op who found these had it it for over a month but only time will tell... realistically speaking though i would be surprised if these last over a year ...a sealed housing that traps heat in the middle of FL summer is not good for electronics in these. in fact, the pilot got so hot that it caused the led to desolder.
 
a sealed housing that traps heat in the middle of FL summer is not good for electronics in these
That's why I went with the 5w CANBus-enabled Huizen. However, when I wrote to Sirius support about these bulbs, they did say both the CK and EK are ok to use as DRL in the high-power filament mode, so at least the first year of use should be covered under warranty.
 
That's why I went with the 5w CANBus-enabled Huizen. However, when I wrote to Sirius support about these bulbs, they did say both the CK and EK are ok to use as DRL in the high-power filament mode, so at least the first year of use should be covered under warranty.

not familiar with a canbus ...what is the difference? are electronics outside the housing? good to know about the response from sirius...yes they seem to have good service so hopefully they will honor a replacement when these go out. might as well consider it a yearly maintenance item... better than changing out bulbs every few months and get benefits of a led with brighter light and the led flashing effect.
 
are electronics outside the housing?
No, everything is still inside, it's just that the lower wattage means less heat is produced, and the CANBus chip makes it so that it does not hyperflash, despite the lower wattage (by telling the computer that everything is ok with that bulb, or something to that effect).
 
ah i see...the pilot also is supposed to be canbus but was toast after 4 mos and started hyperflashing everytime. so i'm not sure i'd put too much faith in the "canbus" claim.
 
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I just did this. I wanted to give anyone instructions with a V8 on how to go about changing out their amber DRLs to LEDs.

I did have to re-pin the driver side socket. It was a pain but doable.

I purchased these from Amazon per another users post.

18921

Step 1: Remove radiator clips and cover. Set aside.
Step 2: Remove brace that runs over top of each air-box cleaner. I think it is a 12mm.
Step 3: Remove clips that hold top of air-box on
Step 4: Loosen the hose clamp that hold the intake pipe to the air-box. It should be a 10mm.
Step 5: Remove top of air box
Step 6: Remove the two screws that hold the bottom air-box in place. Remove bottom air-box.

This should give you pretty good access to the back of the headlight assembly.
Step 7: Remove dust cover on back of headlight assembly housing.
Step 8: Remove bulb and place aside.
Step 9: Place new bulb in socket

Reverse assemble.

IF you need to re-pin I will explain how I did it.

Below are photos of the connector that need to be re-pinned
18922


This connector is held on to the head light assembly.
Remove the bottom of the connector tab with a screw driver. You will need to put some force on it. I used one finger behind the connector to keep it from bending and using your other hand with a screw driver push the tab to release the clip.

18923

Once you have the bottom of the plug removed. Bend the connector down towards the ground. The metal tab holding it is pretty forgiving.

Slide a flat head screw driver between the connector and the metal tab. The connector should release downward towards the bottom of the car.

You should now have a socket and connector.

Mark one of the wires and on side of the connector before you disassemble.

Looking at the connector where the wires go into it there is a little cover back where the wires come out of it. Using a small screw driver pry that access cover off. You should now see down into the connector where the wires meet the prongs.

Look down inside the connector / prong and you will see a small white tab. That tab is holding the prong inside the connector. Find something small to push on that white tab and pull the prong from the connector.

Reverse the wire locations and reassemble.

Test your new socket on the vehicle before putting it all back together.

I put the connector back onto the metal tab and bent it back into place before hooking the connector back to the plug.

I can't speak to longevity of these LEDs as I just put them in but they seem solid.

On the plus side this does not affect you from going back to incandescent bulbs. LEDs are particular about polarity while incandesant dont seem to care.

The car does not hyperflash and so far I am pleased.
 
also bought these as backup. looks very similar to the sirius ck series except 3030 leds instead 2835. there is also a $3 off $3+ coupon today which makes it $9 for pair shipped. coupon code PERFECT3 works on any ebay item.

P21W LED P21/5W T20 W21/5W 21SMD Car Light Bulb 7443 1156 BA15S 1157 BAY15D 3157 | eBay


finally got these and brightness seems about same as sirius ones but color is a bit lighter amber than sirius. bulb is a bit touchy and had to adjust it a certain way for it to stay lit. may need to make some adjustments to the contacts to make it stable but didn't try. good thing is it also did not hyper flash and weigh about the same as the sirius. longetivity is another factor and also basically no warranty since its from china. i'd say go with sirius due to 1yr warranty plug and play.

sirius ck left / ebay right

20190410_162826%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg




siruis left / ebay right

20190410_162154%20%28edited-Pixlr%29.jpg
 
no hf on ck ;)

really impressed with the brightness of the ek (ck same) ... signs get brightly lit up even from a distance when flashing compared to pilot which would barely light up signs even close. only question is the longevity of these ...i read the op who found these had it it for over a month but only time will tell... realistically speaking though i would be surprised if these last over a year ...a sealed housing that traps heat in the middle of FL summer is not good for electronics in these. in fact, the pilot got so hot that it caused the led to desolder.
 
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