Lots of confusion on these blinker bulbs, and why they burn out so quickly.
Hyundai didn't help when they told everyone in their user manual that the replacement was a non existent "PY" LED bulb. The "PY" bulb doesn't exist and never has. (Maybe on a drawing board somewhere)
The original supplied Hyundai bulb is a double filament regular incandescent (old fashion) light bulb, a 2357, which crosses over to several similar part numbers. They all work.
They all work, and they all burn out relatively quickly. They do so because I believe the LED "PY" bulb was never developed, even though the car was designed for it...follow me on this.
If any of you do-it-yourself people take a moment and look INSIDE the light bulb SOCKET the next time you replace one. Your going to see a SINGLE electrical contact spring. The bulb you're putting in has TWO contacts at the base of the bulb. One for running light, one for blinker. Both contacts use the base of the bulb as power negative.
But the socket has ONE contact...DUH ???
Here is how the bulb is DESIGNED to work. One contact at the bottom of the bulb is for electricity (DC) + positive, the silver/brass base of the bulb is for electricity (DC) - negative
For the running light to work, the car should send power to ONE contact which goes through the filament, then to ground via the bulb base, and filament ONE lights.
For the blinker to work, the car should send power to the SECOND contact simultaneously, the power to the second contact goes through the SECOND filament and then to the shared ground via the same silver/brass bulb base.
TWO filaments lit at the same time makes the bulb brighter, and so turning the SECOND contact power on-off makes the bulb brighter - less bright - brighter - less bright. You now have a BLINKING bulb.
So how is Hyundai making a two filament/two contact bulb operate as designed, with just one contact? How are they turning on-and-off the second Blinker filament?
ANSWER: They're not.
Hyundai is using only ONE filament and simply pulsing a higher voltage to a single filament to get it to burn brighter. It's easily done. BUT NEVER DONE!!!! Why, because it means you're forcing the bulb to operate beyond its designed voltage. To do so will cause the bulb to fail quicker than designed. It will also cause it to operate much hotter than designed, which is why every owner who takes the time to look inside the bulb socket will see a socket that is charred black by excessive heat.
Attached at the bottom of this post are 4 images. 2 of the "cleaned" charred single contact socket, and 2 of the bulbs. The first is the burned black OEM bulb which shows what the excessive heat does the the bulb. The second is the replacement bulb.
This has to be an eleventh hour remedy by Hyundai for a single contact design that was meant for the mythical "PY" bulb that failed to be produced.
To re engineer the wiring harness for a conventional two wire would have taken time and money. New harness design, new (two contact) bulb socket, reprogramming the electronic power distribution program, and possibly production delays. No way this would happen. We as owners will never know the full story of what happened here. But here is what we're left to deal with.
The bulbs will continue to burn out once or twice a year.
Replace them as a set. Unless your putting in EXACTLY the same bulb made by EXACTLY the same manufacturer, you'll end up with the problem above, which was one side being brighter then the other.
Keep an eye on the socket. I've only had my Genesis for two years, and the socket shows serious signs of heat deterioration. I know the socket will need replacement within another two years.
Is Hyundai responsible for these issues ABSOLUTELY! Will they install new sockets at their expenses as needed, not likely. A class-action on such a minor issue isn't likely unless the excess heat issue actually causes a few car fires which isn't very likely in my opinion.
I am upset that years later, they still never developed the "PY" bulb. If designed correctly, you can pulse an LED bulb with varying voltages without the same damaging effects.
As to all the people here installing LED substitutes. Virtually all the LED substitutes I've examined in the store are double contact bulbs. Meaning they will light TWO separate sets of LED's, one for running and one for blinking, just like I described above.
I can't understand how anyone is getting a satisfactory results with them. Unless designed to do so, pulsing a single bank of LED's with a higher than designed voltage, isn't likely to make a significant difference in brightness.
I tried a set of LED's from AutoZone hoping my suspicions were wrong. One wouldn't work at all, the other as I suspected, had a weaker blinker signal than the conventional incandescent bulb. I returned them for a refund.
I love my Genesis, but we've all been sold a defective design when it comes to the front blinkers/running lamps.
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- - - Updated - - -
Lots of confusion on these blinker bulbs, and why they burn out so quickly.
Hyundai didn't help when they told everyone in their user manual that the replacement was a non existent "PY" LED bulb. The "PY" bulb doesn't exist and never has. (Maybe on a drawing board somewhere)
The original supplied Hyundai bulb is a double filament regular incandescent (old fashion) light bulb, a 2357, which crosses over to several similar part numbers. They all work.
They all work, and they all burn out relatively quickly. They do so because I believe the LED "PY" bulb was never developed, even though the car was designed for it...follow me on this.
If any of you do-it-yourself people take a moment and look INSIDE the light bulb SOCKET the next time you replace one. Your going to see a SINGLE electrical contact spring. The bulb you're putting in has TWO contacts at the base of the bulb. One for running light, one for blinker. Both contacts use the base of the bulb as power negative.
But the socket has ONE contact...DUH ???
Here is how the bulb is DESIGNED to work. One contact at the bottom of the bulb is for electricity (DC) + positive, the silver/brass base of the bulb is for electricity (DC) - negative
For the running light to work, the car should send power to ONE contact which goes through the filament, then to ground via the bulb base, and filament ONE lights.
For the blinker to work, the car should send power to the SECOND contact simultaneously, the power to the second contact goes through the SECOND filament and then to the shared ground via the same silver/brass bulb base.
TWO filaments lit at the same time makes the bulb brighter, and so turning the SECOND contact power on-off makes the bulb brighter - less bright - brighter - less bright. You now have a BLINKING bulb.
So how is Hyundai making a two filament/two contact bulb operate as designed, with just one contact? How are they turning on-and-off the second Blinker filament?
ANSWER: They're not.
Hyundai is using only ONE filament and simply pulsing a higher voltage to a single filament to get it to burn brighter. It's easily done. BUT NEVER DONE!!!! Why, because it means you're forcing the bulb to operate beyond its designed voltage. To do so will cause the bulb to fail quicker than designed. It will also cause it to operate much hotter than designed, which is why every owner who takes the time to look inside the bulb socket will see a socket that is charred black by excessive heat.
Attached at the bottom of this post are 4 images. 2 of the "cleaned" charred single contact socket, and 2 of the bulbs. The first is the burned black OEM bulb which shows what the excessive heat does the the bulb. The second is the replacement bulb.
This has to be an eleventh hour remedy by Hyundai for a single contact design that was meant for the mythical "PY" bulb that failed to be produced.
To re engineer the wiring harness for a conventional two wire would have taken time and money. New harness design, new (two contact) bulb socket, reprogramming the electronic power distribution program, and possibly production delays. No way this would happen. We as owners will never know the full story of what happened here. But here is what we're left to deal with.
The bulbs will continue to burn out once or twice a year.
Replace them as a set. Unless your putting in EXACTLY the same bulb made by EXACTLY the same manufacturer, you'll end up with the problem above, which was one side being brighter then the other.
Keep an eye on the socket. I've only had my Genesis for two years, and the socket shows serious signs of heat deterioration. I know the socket will need replacement within another two years.
Is Hyundai responsible for these issues ABSOLUTELY! Will they install new sockets at their expenses as needed, not likely. A class-action on such a minor issue isn't likely unless the excess heat issue actually causes a few car fires which isn't very likely in my opinion.
I am upset that years later, they still never developed the "PY" bulb. If designed correctly, you can pulse an LED bulb with varying voltages without the same damaging effects.
As to all the people here installing LED substitutes. Virtually all the LED substitutes I've examined in the store are double contact bulbs. Meaning they will light TWO separate sets of LED's, one for running and one for blinking, just like I described above.
I can't understand how anyone is getting a satisfactory results with them. Unless designed to do so, pulsing a single bank of LED's with a higher than designed voltage, isn't likely to make a significant difference in brightness.
I tried a set of LED's from AutoZone hoping my suspicions were wrong. One wouldn't work at all, the other as I suspected, had a weaker blinker signal than the conventional incandescent bulb. I returned them for a refund.
I love my Genesis, but we've all been sold a defective design when it comes to the front blinkers/running lamps.
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www.siriusledlights.com
